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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I’d say go with the plans, however from a model perspective six of typical hand pumps around what appears to be the mast would result in a very crowded look and likely make rigging more challenging than it needs to be so my input is chain pumps. They are a nice look on a deck. …..later after the refit, seeing his men jammed together trying to pump out water Aubrey replaced the hand pumps…
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My friezes look great as they are printed then sprayed as described in Chuck’s instructions. I’m not sure how paint on paper would hold up over time, but then I’ve never tried it. I was skeptical of the paper friezes at the start, but now two-three years since I applied them I’m more than happy with the result. However it’s your model and you should do as you wish, conducting experiments is always a good plan.
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Any hardware store. And correction. Denatured alcohol (also used as camp stove fuel) not isopropyl alcohol
- 129 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sherbourne
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Isopropyl alcohol is useful in loosening white/ yellow glue (not CA) glue, a modelers best friend, a better than sawing. Isolate the area with paper towels, apply it with a dropper and give it seconds not minutes to work. It may take more than once for yellow glue, white PVA separates quickly. Never be reluctant to remove, back up, restart, replace. These are wood models, not assemble in place plastic ones. Wood is very forgiving if treated carefully. I’ve backed up on hull planking that I often feel like I’ve planked three sides of a hull. Often laser cut parts are cut a little big on purpose to allow for variations in each build, no two models are the same. You can sand it smaller, can’t make in bigger. As pointed out getting the ‘infrastructure’ or bones of the model correct is crucial to your enjoyment at later stages. Vanguard models are excellent, both for quality of parts and depth of instruction. You’re off to a good start. Have fun. Although without Chris’ skill and while I have that mouse sander I rarely use it for fear of losing the symmetry of the hull. I just sand away by hand.
- 129 replies
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- vanguard models
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I agree with Rusty, there is always another model that needs building. Two dozen has a nice ring.
- 131 replies
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I acquired some different thin and wedge shaped files from a jewelry making website for my breast rail columns, spent a lot of time on those, more than six.
- 399 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Another great build. I’ve followed yours going back to Pegasus I think, they are all so wonderfully build and so fully documented. I really like the clever display for this one. I hope to see you back at it soon.
- 131 replies
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- Medway Longboat
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This Helping Hands is an essential tool for all rigging in my opinion. This link is for US Amazon, I’m sure they are available elsewhere online. They come in multiple sized base plates with different types and amount of arms. I like this smaller plate with four arms, I later acquire a fifth arm. I used to use a cheap smaller version, this one though was a game changer for my rigging, makes it all much easier. You have many seizings in your future. I think it was when I built Cheerful I first used it, post 669 and 706 among others show it in action.
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Please ignore the poor photography and messy work bench. My “big wood” artist friend has completed the stand and future home for my Winchelsea. Note how the grain imitates the bow breaking the water. He intentionally selected this piece of wood for that reason. The maple inlay compliments the cedar as does the African Wenge compliment the colors of the ship. You know the Byrnes thickness sander many of us have? He has the big boy version, he ran this piece through it multiple times, routed out the edges for the inlay then ran it through several more times. I wasn’t sure about the lacquered finish until we set the ship on it. It reflects the underside of the boat, so that bottom planking isn’t lost from sight after all, an extra dimension for viewing. We had multiple ‘fittings’ to get the brackets just right, they are a work of art by themselves, carved from the same Wenge as the base. I’m really excited by the time and expertise Bill put into this. Really nice to have a friend with these skills, far beyond anything I could do and a perfect home for my Winchelsea. Now I just have to get back in the workshop to finish it.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thos logs should so there is an upper counter that meets the lower counter at that angle bend on the frames. Hard to know from photos but it seems your’re a bit low. Try a temporary plank for the upper counter, they have to match up. Maybe look later in other logs or a few pages ahead in the monograph to see the finished look. also keep in mind the planks have to curve to meet the lower counter. Your angle for that and the filler as you have it might make that tough. This is a challenging area, worth it to get it right. I'm closing in on four years…its a process.
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Leave the char on the back edge of the bulkheads from bow to midships and the front edge of the bulkheads from stern to midships until the very last. This helps maintain the proper hull proportions and shape. Also key is the frequent use of a long thin batten to ensure a smooth run. I always reviewed several build logs as examples of Chuck’s monograph before each major step.
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Well done on a challenging part of the build.
- 399 replies
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- winchelsea
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