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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Once faired the reference marks are just a guide, a good guide, but just a guide. As you’ll see in other logs, running long thin battens become the means to mark wales and ports once faired. If all the bulkheads are firmly seated (even across the top deck area and flush with center keel board) across the top and squared you’ll be fine. The bow pieces, not installed yet on yours, can be supplemented with balsa to aid planking the curve of the tricky bow area.
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Excellent planking, very well done. The first coat of WOP is usually dull as the wood absorbs it. It’s about the third or fourth coat the beauty appears (I kinda loss track of how many my Winchelsea has). I do a light sanding with 400 grit after 2nd or third coat. Not sure how much WOP I’d put on wood below wales. Tamiya tape provides an excellent seal, much better than blue painters tape.
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Yours are closer than mine were. It’s all looking really nice. The natural wood is a nice look.
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Look back at many logs, you’ll find fairing is one of the most challenging and crucial steps of your build. It defines all that comes after. In this case the char actually helps as a guide.
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- winchelsea
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Nice work. Chapter 7 is a big one to have behind you. I
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I think you’ll find almost everyone regardless of where they are in completion progress are willing to help. A bit unfair I think to label them as you have. I write my logs with the intent to pass on what I’ve learned or how I did some step. By the same token I have benefitted by following others. Ask away. We may not have found your log, ask questions on their logs. There are lots of tricky places along the way that we may not get without some help.
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I’d suggest getting some better wood for the cat heads and anything else from the Modelers Sawmill, a partner listed on top page. The wood in my Lady Nelson was ridiculously old and brittle. I also scratch made the windlass as the one included is hopelessly out of scale, simple to do and a good learning skill. I also use brass pedestals along with brass rods for mounting. I drill the necessary holes in the keel very early in the build, I’d recommend doing them before getting to far in deck furniture installation. Your first build is just that, an opportunity to learn and practice new skills. As others have said, the willingness to tear it off and do it over is a first step towards success. And, remember doing this fun.
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Sorry you think that. My comment is to the unreasonable expectation for ‘accuracy’ being demanded of Chris for small plastic figures. Being it reminded of the little army men I played with as a kid I’m not why toy isn’t a fair description. More significantly nor can I imagine examining such figures to determine if it had the right shoes, especially once placed on a model. Chris is valuable to our community for his ship designs, not for the outsourced work of a plastic figure that clearly creates such critique. It’s true I have no use for plastic figures (other than my mini-me for fun and scale comparison) so I’ll keep further comments to myself. Frankly I’m surprised Chris is giving it another try, best of luck to him on his next iteration.
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Well, that would make it more challenging.
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- winchelsea
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Thanks JJ. I’m thinking with my current progress you’ll quickly catch up. The head works are a whole new game.
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After a family trip to Costa Rica with my adult sons, our wives and grand children it’s back to building. I left off with a reluctance to add swivel guns to the bollards. I’ve stayed pretty true to Chuck’s design, so ultimately I added them. They are kinda necessary for balance, the two on the forecastle were lonely. On to the final chapter, the head works around the bow. More to follow, lots going on in a very small space.
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- winchelsea
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