glbarlow

Welcome back!

Second planking finished (at last!)
Apologies @DonSangria for missing your enquiry. My model making has been so infrequent and disjointed over the past 16 months that I’m afraid I’ve neglected my build log and the forum.
Here’s a belated attempt to catch up. I’ve missed photos of several steps so rather than offer an incomplete narrative I’ll just show some pictures of the current state of play, then in a following post I'll explain one or two of the steps where I’ve departed slightly from the build instructions.
 
Here’s the second planking finished, sanded, and an initial coat of wipe-on-poly applied:








Looking at the photos, I'm tempted to leave the hull unpainted, at least from below the wales.
 
I'll follow on with some more information on intermediate steps, hopefully later today.
 
Derek
 

FC deck details completed except for spanshackles as still waiting on square brass wire to be delivered.

This week I've been in assembly line mode with fashioning the breech ropes and attaching them to the carronades, and then attaching the carronades to the deck.  Chuck's advice on the seizings above has been invaluable for a newby like me.  Six down, four to go . . .
 
*note:  It looks like I'm using different color red paint.  It's the same bottle of Vallejo red I've used all along, but I've noticed it looks more orange when newly applied, but for some reason darkens to more red over time.  Weird.  At any rate, when not under the bright glare of a closely positioned halogen light for photos, the variation is not noticeable to the naked eye.
 
Erik

Hello all!
 
Before adding the port frames,  I cut a  1/4" x1/4" strip into the length of a gun port (17/32") and placed it on the plans to make sure it's the correct gunport length.  I then would use this as a gunport template to make sure all the gunports have the correct length.
 
I noticed there are 4 gunports on each side where the aft facing frame is 1/32" wide.  I added those first.  After that, I added the rest of the aft facing frames so all 12 gunport frames were framed on the aft side.
 
I then used the gunport template I made to gadge the width of the other frames.
 

Some required me to use 2 different width strips to make sure the gunports are all the same size.
 

You have to make sure each frame is a little bit bigger outboard and height wise so you can match the curvature of the hull properly.  You also have to bevel the bottom of quite a lot of the frames so that they sit flat against the sills.  This is super important because any gaps between the frames and sills will be very noticeable once it's painted and planked.  Doing this correctly means you don't have to add wood filler later and hope to sand the frames/sills correctly such that it doesn't change the shape of the gunport.   It took some time making sure the all fit properly but it was worth it.
 
After adding in all 6 gunports on each side, I sanded outboard to match the hull and also sanded the top of the frames into nice curve.  While doing so, i checked the curvature by placing the same batten I used while faring onto the hull to check the curve.  I needed to do this so I could create the correct measurements on the front gunports.
 
The gunport that we have to cut out was tough but fun!  I read the instructions, looked at the plans and marked out the gunports on both sides.
Notice i have 2 lines running vertical down the hull.  The inner lines are the actual size of the gunport to position it correctly.  The outer lines are 1/32" away from the gunport.  This is where I will actually cut out the frames.  I do this so I can add boxwood sills and frames afterwards.  I do not like the look of plywood in my build.  BUT most importantly ( and the real reason),  I know with my skills, I wouldn't be able to create truly flat and even sills/frames by cutting the plywood alone.  So i decided to frame them like the rest.
 
I first indented the top part of the frame with a hobby knife to help start the cutting with the saw.  I then cut the outmost lines I created.  I forgot to mention that I also marked 1/32" lower of the sill to be able to frame that as well.

 I cut down 17/32" using the saw. (The gunport is suppose to be 16/32")
 
I next made diagonal cuts with the saw to start removing material.

Luckily, because plywood has layers, cutting the diagonal made some of the plywood just come off because of lack of glue between some layers.  The picture above had no sanding.  The plywood just came off without pulling or anything!
 
I then took my time and cut out the remaining gunport material.

I had to make small adjustments and use files to try and place the 1/32" sills down flat.

I then added the aft frame first on both sides.  This was a 1/32" wide strip.  I then used the gunpoet template to figure out what width i needed for the other frame.  I then added those and sanded.
 

 
I think they came out great!
 
Thanks everyone for reading and for all your likes!
 
Jeff

Hi Ben, 
the gun deck will be complete with all the 24 pdrs as well as cabins, chain pumps and fittings. It will be fully viewable through the framed upper deck with minimal planks.
As soon as the hull is planked I will begin working on the gun deck. 

Im looking forward to making some progress on my Winnie as well, it’s been way too long and I’m so close to the end! 

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I went on to build the winch. All measurements were taken on a copy of the plan and noted directly on it. This enabled me to determine the wood cuts to be made. I used cherry wood (with the exception of the winch drum, which will be turned from a boxwood plank).

To simulate the two small sprockets, I decided to make them from two 2.5 mm Amati brass sheaves. At least I'm sure I'll get two perfectly round sprockets... To simulate the teeth, I simply filled the pulley slot with two-component epoxy putty and used the point of a needle to create the hollows between the teeth.

The handles are constructed from metal wire and small sections of micro-tube. All parts are ready for winch assembly.

The wooden parts of the winch are glued together, with the exception of the drum.

Airbrush coloring. The metal parts have been chemically blackened.

Then all the parts are finally assembled.


A great little project that was finished and gave me a lot of pleasure. I'll be moving on to the last elements of the ship's deck center.
 
 
 
 

I acquired some different thin and wedge shaped files from a jewelry making website for my breast rail columns, spent a lot of time on those, more than six. 

This looks great. Looking forward to seeing you back on Winnie. 

FC rails and details just being finished up and the belfry and its rail waiting to be installed. Need some square wire to make the spanshackles and chapter 9 is completed.
 
Chapter 10 will be completed very soon, just the QD cannons, binnacle and ships wheel to be completed.

It is true the masts and especially the rigging rely mostly if not completely on the plans, just to make it more fun and interesting. Either the pin or some PVA or both works, the rope lashing wouldn’t hold it by itself very well.  

Here’s mine if it helps, I believe I both pinned and glued it
 

This looks great. Looking forward to seeing you back on Winnie. 

Quick update:
 
Planking above the wales is complete on the port side and all the gun ports are cleaned up and painted. Need to finish a few details on the stbd side channel wale planking and that’s it for now. My Winnie awaits me back home!
 
Crating model and shipping to mainland and its eventual trip across the country. 
 
 

Just a quick update, but I was able to cut out, shape, and glue on the gunport sills.
 
I just wanted to share how I create them.
 
First I would take the 1/4" x 1/4" strip and put it against the hull, and mark the length and the verticle bulkhead.  This will produce 2 dimensions of beveling that needs to be completed per piece.

 
I noticed near the bow, there wasn't as much as an angle than at the stern.  In this pic, I haven't drawn the verticle lines yet on the strip in the same direction as the bulkhead edges.
 
I then cut the strip and gave a little extra material on the end so I could make sure I am getting the correct bevels in the 2 dimensions.
 

Luckily, I can adjust my disk sander in 2 dimensions.  This really helped to make nice crisp straight edges in both bevel dimensions.
 
I wouldn't initially sand up to my guide lines.  I would test fit the piece, disk sand a little more, test fit again, and repeat until it was a good fit.

The last photo shows that I try to line up the inside edge of the gunframe sill with the inside of the bulkheads.  I do this because I know the inside will be sanded to be a lot thinner later in the build.  It also makes inboard sanding easier as I don't have to sand off more of the gunport sill.  It is more work now, as I will have more sill to remove outboard, but will save some time later.
 
I then measured the plans to make sure the length between the gunport bulkheads match my model.  I realized I should be doing this first before cutting / sanding the sill.  So after the first set of sills near the bow, I measured the lengths first from the plans.
 
I then made the other side's sill in the same way and sanded the top of the 2 sill pieces with 220 grit sandpaper to get a nice flat surface.
 

 
I then put glue on both and place them between the correct bulkheads; positioning them based upon the sill lines I made earlier.
 
What I then do, is take a straight 1/4" x 1/4" strip and place it ontop of both sills.  I placed a level ontop to make sure they are both the same height.  But i make sure i know what angle my table is at first (and the ship) so I know what is even.
 

 
Sorry my picture isn't straight, but the level shows it's very close to the same height.
 
I completed the same process for the rest of the gunports.  The sills near the stern were a lot harder to make as the angles are more dramatic.
 
For a few of the gunports, some bulkheads would be 1/32"  too short or too long from each other.  To fix this,  it was important to measure the correct sill length ( from bulkhead to bulkhead).  I would then make the sill length based upon that measurement from the plans.  I had to clamp a few because the sill I created was slightly too short for it to sit between the bulkheads properly.   This was ok, as it fixed the issue of wrong sized  gunport sills.  Usually if one side wasn't wide enough, the other side was too wide.   This ended up helping to even out both sides at the same time.  When I say the sill is too small to fit properly, I mean it's off by 1/32" max.
 
Here is a pic of measuring the distance between bulkeads of a gunport.

This particular sill needed to be 21/32".  I had to clamp it because it was 22/32" on this side without the gunport sil.  You have to be careful to not make the sills too small, as clamping a very small sill can result in a bent bulkhead former, causing your ship to not be straight.
 
I was able to finish installing the sills.
 

 
Next, I will be sanding the sills to the curve of the hull before adding the gunport frames.
 
I guess this wasn't as quick of an update as I had hoped!
 
Thank you for reading!
 
Jeff

Please ignore the poor photography and messy work bench. 
 
My “big wood” artist friend has completed the stand and future home for my Winchelsea. Note how the grain imitates the bow breaking the water. He intentionally selected this piece of wood for that reason. The maple inlay compliments the cedar as does the African Wenge compliment the colors of the ship. You know the Byrnes thickness sander many of us have? He has the big boy version, he ran this piece through it multiple times, routed out the edges for the inlay then ran it through several more times. 

I wasn’t sure about the lacquered finish until we set the ship on it. It reflects the underside of the boat, so that bottom planking isn’t lost from sight after all, an extra dimension for viewing. We had multiple ‘fittings’ to get the brackets just right, they are a work of art by themselves, carved from the same Wenge as the base. 

I’m really excited by the time and expertise Bill put into this. Really nice to have a friend with these skills, far beyond anything I could do and a perfect home for my Winchelsea. Now I just have to get back in the workshop to finish it. 
 

Cheers Guys,
Sitting in my office/workroom I am surrounded by eleven models (and there are another eight around the house)  not including those lying in ordinary in the loft.

This disjointed view around my office gives you the effect.
I can't imagine at the moment where I would put another, the desire is still there, but I will have to see how long that can be suppressed.🫤
 
Thanks again for the interest shown.
 
B.E.

Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need.  Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready.   Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready.   In my case some mara 120 thread that matched my rope color.  Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this.  Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!!

Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop.  Leave the tail a bit longish.  I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers.  No helping hands needed.  Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end.   Easy peasy.  Then cinch it tight....

This is what it looks like.  And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt.  No glue as of yet.

Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff.   Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end.   It may open a bit.  Thats OK.  Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it.  At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here)  on the knot after tightening it.  Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored.   Yes you get CA on your fingers.   But the rope stays perfectly clean.   I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope.  This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with.

No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet.

It may be hard to see in the photo below.   But
I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing.   I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line.   See the other loose end hanging off the far side?

Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times.  I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing.,  This never lays correctly and will look sloppy.  I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around.  Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings.  Just a small drop.   No knotting needed.   I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all.  It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA.  What  a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope.  Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc.  I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing.  

Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp.   I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope.  You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting.  Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breech rope will solve this issue.   I hate when the cut loose ends stick out.  Cut both loose ends.
 

Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining.  Rope is clean and crisp as it should be.  Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope.

Time to trim that with a sharp blade.  Trim it close and at an angle.  To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it.  Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries.   

The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining.

Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later.  Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described.
 

Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length.   Then just finish it as you did the other side.

Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the  cannon or Carronade.  I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first.  It is very important.  Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center.   I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope.   I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side.  Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape.   I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away.   It will hold its shape.   No shiny spots or staining or dicoloration.

Finished breech rope.

 

Update:
 
First curved band on port side planked. In advance I thought it would be something very difficult, but so far it has not been that difficult. Because I had already planked the hull this was easier. Also because it is 2 dimensional compared to the hull where the plank has to bend in 3 dimensions. Perhaps planking a curved deck is a good primer/exercise to then try the hull. The measuring etc. is similar.
 
The caulking is a bit difficult to see because I had very lightly sanded it to try polish away the pencil lines a bit, but that also makes the lines less visible now (and the lines are still there lol). It will come to the fore later when I varnish it. It still needs a good sanding, but I will do that when the deck is finished. By the way, I liked making the hooked scarf planks on both sides.
 
Now first continue with the wide band on starboard side.
 




 
 

Another great build. I’ve followed yours going back to Pegasus I think, they are all so wonderfully build and so fully documented. I really like the clever display for this one. I hope to see you back at it soon. 
 
 

Another great build. I’ve followed yours going back to Pegasus I think, they are all so wonderfully build and so fully documented. I really like the clever display for this one. I hope to see you back at it soon. 
 
 

Another great build. I’ve followed yours going back to Pegasus I think, they are all so wonderfully build and so fully documented. I really like the clever display for this one. I hope to see you back at it soon. 
 
 

Post 44
A final fussing and faffing around the model, touch-ins here and there, and a final coat of w-o-p.
 
I have tried various combinations to display the mast and spars alongside the model but arrived at having the Mast and Boom on the display base, and the Bowsprit and Gaff onboard the boat.
This avoids having to have a wider display base which I don’t really want.
 
So, here are the completion photos.

0271

0276

0280

0283

0284

0288

0291

0292

0295

0296

0300

0279
As with the Queen Ann Barge and Cheerful the ‘Medway’ Longboat has been a pleasure to build.
The combination of quality materials, excellent designs, and elements that test your ingenuity and skill provide a high level of build satisfaction.
 
Thank you, Chuck for the makings.
 
I do have a few more related photos that members may find of interest; I will add these in a separate post.
 
B.E.
06/09/2024.

Rigging the yards
 
I’m coming closer to the end of my journey.
 

 
It's time to rig the yards. The first step is making the stirrups. In many kits these are removed from sheets of PE brass and drilled into the base, here I get to make them from rope, which is a bit more tricky than it might seem. I started by seizing a tight loop around a #68 bit. After experimentation I chose this bit as the tightest size for the .25 dark brown rope used for the foot rope to fit through. Too big of a loop and I’d not be able to properly position the foot ropes.
 

 
Each stirrup had to be long enough to wrap around the yard three times and be the correct length. To do this I placed a piece of parchment paper over the plans, set the length from the bottom of the yard by taping the rope to the parchment paper, then gluing it to the backside of the yard with a dip of CA applied with a straight pin. With that done I wrapped the the rope three times round using CA then cut the rope off at the bottom of the yard where it wouldn’t be seen. I stiffened the stirrups with watered down white glue. I’m sure there are better ways to do this process, but this way worked for me.
 

 
Once I had that done I seized the foot ropes to the yards. I had seized the blocks the lower and topsail yards earlier. It all worked out but was a bit trying to get the lengths right. You might note the left side of the plans, that’s the result of my knocking over the paint bottle. Fortunately the plans and my work mat were the only victims. I keep a roll of paper towels nearby, it’s not the first time I’ve wasted some paint...or glue...or whatever other liquid was nearby.
 

 

 
I made up the four brace pendants for the lower yard and raised the yard by connecting the mast and yard slings, it’s nice look. Once again I’ll note how much serving rope adds to the model - using the Syren Service-O-Matic makes this very easy to do. I also added the clue lines. These have a 3/16 block that connects to the top mast, then runs through the mast sheave, through the lower yard block and down to the deck.
 
Although I’d installed them a while ago, I did not belay any of the stays. In the photo they are folded over the peak halyard, I need the room to terminate the remaining lines to the mast and pin rail. I could have worked around them, but why. So they’ll remain up out of the way until the last steps of the rigging.
 

 
I loosely ran the lower yard fore and aft braces and lifts following the plans, again keeping the aft braces flipped up out of the way. It’s fun finding the right path for the lines. It’s a string puzzle, I enjoy sorting it all out.
 

 
I make it a point to study the rigging plans early in the build so I know where and how various blocks, eyebolts, and hooks will go and add them early. I missed this one, the bowsprit blocks which I had added a long time ago. The lower yard braces initiate at the bowsprit block, run up to the yard pendant, back trough the block and belay at the bow pin rail.  So I had to cut off and replace the blocks at the end of the bowsprit to add the tackle to the block, not super hard thanks to the Quad Hands, but a pain nonetheless.
 

 

 
And of course what rigging job would be complete without breaking something, as I did more than once, in this case the main sheet. So it’s a time-out to re-rig it back again.
 

 
I do all the rigging I can off the ship whenever I can. For the topsail yard that included the clue lines and braces. These involve very long rope runs. I somehow mis-managed my .018 light brown line and with no source to replenish it I substituted .012 line for the topsail yard brace. You can see I’ve stripped down my Quad hands into loop tying mode. Loops were seized in this tackle then tightened onto the yard keeping the long coils of line untangled, and not dipped into spilled jars of paint.
 
The topsail yard also has a sling, this one isn’t served. I also included the optional truss from .025 line for additional stability.
 

 

 
With the topsail yard hoisted with its long braces and lifts the deck seemingly is a cluttered mess, but I know each rope, there is organization to the madness. I prefer all the lines be on board at this point so I can carefully find the right and clean route through the blocks, mast and yards before belaying any of them.
 

 
Knowing where things are and where they go comes with a lot of studying and marking up the plans. I’ve completed the standing rigging so that plan is folded and put away. The plans tell you what you need to know but that doesn’t always include the route and it doesn’t resolve conflicts with other lines. It does provide a belay plan, that’s the important piece of information along with line and block placements. (I cut off portions of the plan in this photo, sorry pirates).
 

 
With the yards and their respective lines hoisted and installed its time to start belaying.  As I mentioned I moved everything aft of the mast up and out of the way, they’ll be dropped down and belayed later. The lower yard foot ropes seem short, but they match the plans, they aren’t fully pulled and dressed out in this photo. I tested mini me up there, he seemed ok with it.
 

 
Next I leveled both the lower and the topsail yard using and belaying their respective lifts (one per side of each yard for four total). I want to get that right and the yards steady before anything else, I did careful measurements between yards and use of my bubble level. With that done I next want to finish anything attached to the mast cleats, including rope coils, this includes one end of the clue lines, these can be worked from either end, the other belays to the pin rails.
 

 
With a lot of lines belayed at this point it was time to go into rope coil mode. I ended up spending a full afternoon making and placing coils. Not just because there more than are a few, but each one I made I decided I could make the next one better, probably explains why I ran short of .018 rope. I find watered down clear matte acrylic works better for coils than the watered down white glue I use for finishing belay points and seizing lines.
 

 

 

 
Everything fore of the mast is now rigged, belayed, and have rope coils in place. I like this method of coiling rope I described in an earlier post. I added coils to the unused belaying pins just to fill it up, and because I went a bit crazy making them.
 

 

 
The fore end of a cutter bowsprit is a busy place, lot of ropes descend here from the mast and belay back to the bow pin rail. maybe not frigate like, but kinda fun.
 

 

 
Finally it’s the aft stays and braces turn to be belayed I hadn’t finalized the aft lower yard brace in the photo, it was time for dinner, I went back to it later. Room to work get’s tight, not so much there are so many lines, there just isn’t much space in between them to access the belay points. My eye of a sewing needle on a stick I described a few post ago comes in handy.
 
With that the rigging of my Cheerful is complete. Next up are the anchors.
 
My thanks for the likes and the comments - as always they are very appreciated.

This  Helping Hands  is an essential tool for all rigging in my opinion. This link is for US Amazon, I’m sure they are available elsewhere online. They come in multiple sized base plates with different types and amount of arms. I like this smaller plate with four arms, I later acquire a fifth arm. I used to use a cheap smaller version, this one though was a game changer for my rigging, makes it all much easier. You have many seizings in your future. 
 
I think it was when I built Cheerful I first used it, post 669 and 706 among others show it in action. 

Please ignore the poor photography and messy work bench. 
 
My “big wood” artist friend has completed the stand and future home for my Winchelsea. Note how the grain imitates the bow breaking the water. He intentionally selected this piece of wood for that reason. The maple inlay compliments the cedar as does the African Wenge compliment the colors of the ship. You know the Byrnes thickness sander many of us have? He has the big boy version, he ran this piece through it multiple times, routed out the edges for the inlay then ran it through several more times. 

I wasn’t sure about the lacquered finish until we set the ship on it. It reflects the underside of the boat, so that bottom planking isn’t lost from sight after all, an extra dimension for viewing. We had multiple ‘fittings’ to get the brackets just right, they are a work of art by themselves, carved from the same Wenge as the base. 

I’m really excited by the time and expertise Bill put into this. Really nice to have a friend with these skills, far beyond anything I could do and a perfect home for my Winchelsea. Now I just have to get back in the workshop to finish it.