glbarlow

The wheelhouse was designed according to the real plans exactly. It was a small structure, as the originals didn't have a wheelhouse at all. It is only when they stuck in an engine they added this. (They originate from pure sailing vessels)
 
The name I gave this was Rob Roy, it was also on the (now blank) nameplates that appear on the sides of the model. I think Amati was worried about copyright over the name, although I have no idea why.

The drawings were based on plans from James Pottinger (also other drawings of like vessels), with whom I liaised with when developing the model. This was 12 years ago now.

Sorry, I no longer have the plans, this was designed over 12 years ago when I worked for Amati in Italy.

James: just wanted to say thanks for the work you do in your reviews of this and other kits - your consistent and straightforward approach is exceedingly helpful.

Wow

Wow

Port side coppering finished😁. Not the best pictures - I'll try to get some better ones when I get to the next stages.


In the meantime I've made up a little jig to help assemble the gun carriages. Looking at this in close-up I can see the laser-cut components need a bit more tidying up!
 

 
Derek
 

Some other pics of the laser at work...

I have an interest in the same era Chris, anything from the Sumerians to Classical Greece and Rome to be honest. And lots of interesting modelling subjects there too. It's fascinating to see how concepts that we have taken for granted emerged and evolved, things like the cylindrical mast, the shrouds and the centered rudder.
 
At some point I would also like to try my hand at modelling some wooden machines like cranes or siege engines from that era.
 
I have not read Freeman's book, but have heard good things about it. I should probably get it.

Thank you Sceatha, much appreciated. The era a couple of thousand years before 1177bc and a thousand years after this fascinate me. I do have the book Egypt, Greece and Rome: Civilizations of the Ancient Mediterranean by Charles Freeman, and have read it many times. I have always been fascinated with trying to understand how first civilizations came to be, and start working together, and then fighting..

To be honest the photo doesn’t really show the finish well. I’m not great at photography. But there’s no milky finish at all. However I think I’d probably prefer an oil based finish. You can sand this finish off. Water based products only sit on top. Oil penetrates the wood. However, I’m pleased with how it turned out and will try to take some better pictures over the next few days. Thanks for the comments - keep them coming please - I’m here to learn...

The best modelers are the ones that adapt to and correct their mistakes - I don't think there are many that do it right every time - I certainly don't.
 
There isn't much you can't recover from with modeling - except not having a squared frame to build on, hence my earlier advice.  The nice thing about a double planked ship is you can do almost anything to cover the frame with the first planking, sand, wood fill, do whatever to make that a smooth form and the second planking goes on fine - I think Hunt probably describes tapering and measuring so with that practicum you'll be fine. And if not, you can fix it. That's the fun of it all.

I’ve used water based poly on most of my models and have never had a “milk” problem. I suppose it’s in the brand. 
 
I’d think using an oil based varnish would definitely need thinning to prevent it from gumming up. 
 
 

Your plan makes sense to me. I for one am looking for quality, both of material and design. It seems that’s your direction.  While I respect ASAT’s views on Bristol I find myself more interested these days in smaller ships that don’t take me years to finish.
 
Is that Flirt’s false or primary deck that appears to be in 4 pieces?
 
Have you thought about another cutter, or a 1:48 kit?
 
Ok, I’ve exceeded my allotment of questions. Thanks Chris for being available, sharing your plans, and answering questions. 
 
 

That is Flirt's lower deck shown (Master Shipwright version).
 
I will probably do Alert's sister, Rattlesnake at some point, but completely new designs, but no plans for any 48th scale stuff, I want to stick with 64th. The next 6 kits are all planned out and are all 64th.
 
My wife is now packing the Zulu laser cut and PE parts in the boxes, all I am waiting for is the plans, instruction manual and box label..

Hi Vane,
 
The first batches of laser cut for Speedy (including all Master Shipwright kits) were sub contracted to another UK company, who did an OK job, but quite expensive. I didn't get my laser machine until late December, and it took a while to get to grips with it, so I sub contracted another 20 Speedy kits to be laser cut, lest I mess them up.
 
A lot has changed since then, and I would not consider sub contacting laser work out, not now that I know what my machine is capable of. I have never noticed the lines on the edges of that 2mm MDF, I do not think they are there on later kits. I had already made 2 models, one complete and one complete hull using the same laser cut files, and didn't notice those lines along the edges, I just knew the parts fitted together very well and I was happy with all of the fit. At the time, I used the best people I knew, who replaced the Italian sub contractors, as the latter samples were way too sloppy a fit.
 
Regarding where I am now, I have attached some recent laser cut samples I have done myself, for the future Flirt 2mm wood anchor stocks, and also the main anchor body in 2mm MDF. There are no wavy lines on these along the cutting edges.
 
I have also attached a few pics of current state of laser cutting, these are the Flirt MS 2 and 3mm laser cut parts. For the 2mm, I have shown sides of the sheets - I have spent a lot of time to eliminate laser blowback (as evidenced in my previous post), to make the laser sheets as presentable as I can, whilst also fine tuning both laser cutting and engraving, which the special edition Flirt parts should show.
 
ASAT - Regarding Bristol, this was meant to be my second kit. However, because my business plan has changed, and want to produce higher quality kits with higher quality materials, the costs involved for larger kits is much, much more. Initially, Bristol was going have lave laser cut basswood parts and Tanganyika planking. It still may come with Tanganyika (as the stock I have is very good and the colour is perfect), but it will have many sheets of pear or similar, which costs a hell of a lot more than cheap basswood.
 
With this in mind, I need to work up to the larger kits a little slower than originally planned, due to the (much) higher investment costs of even the smallest kits. But what I hope and am aiming for is that all kits will be of similar high quality. Bristol is not scrubbed, as I have already invested a few thousand pounds into the development, it is just delayed, and that delay will ensure Bristol and others that follow will be as perfect as I can make them.

You may want to score your split with a slight saw cut on both sides. You’ll be breaking off all the tabs later, scoring will make that a little easier. 

My First start was the AVS with a Hunt practicum. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. 

I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn than Chuck’s a dvanced long boat. 
 
Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. 
 
Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PVA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. 
 
So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it. It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. 
 
Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. It all starts there. 
 
I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. 
 
Welcome to the club. 

I know what that kit will include and it's stunning! 🤩

Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.

Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.

Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.

Today I started work on the Fore Mast. I decided that the first part to work on would shaping the 5mm square section for the crosstrees assembly. I used some ideas I had seen on the "John Build Iconic Models" YouTube channel with regards to marking and removing the excess wood.
 
With reference to the picture below I started with two lengths of masking tape. Each tape was cut to 26mm which is the approx. diameter of the 8mm dowel. I then added a centre line to the tape and marked 4mm either side of the centre line and 4mm from each edge. The tape was then wrapped around the dowel at the top and bottom edge of the 5mm square area. I then drew lines on the dowel so I had a reasonable guide to how much wood needed to be removed.

I started by making a cut to the approx. depth at the top and bottom with my saw so I would have a neat edge. Using my sharp craft knife, in conjunction with a sanding stick, I removed the excess wood. I positioned the dowel in my mini vice so that I had to stay above the top of the vice jaws when cutting and sanding. I continued with this process until I was happy I had a 5mm x 5mm square section, as shown in the two pictures below.

To make the 5mm circle for the end cap I did toy with the idea and using a small section of 5mm dowel and fixing to fore mast with a pin and glue. I rejected this and using my mini lathe with some sandpaper I had soon reduced the dowel to 5mm . I then marked the position of the cheeks, and using my craft knife and sanding stick removed the excess wood. I was reasonable happy with the end result. Once completed I dry fitted the crosstrees, cap and cheeks and I was happy that everything fitted together OK, as shown in the final two pictures.

 

Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.