Thanasis

Hi. It could be also called as "square-top, or fat-head, mainsail"
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-all-about-mainsails
Thx

No words...  
Thx

Hi. It could be also called as "square-top, or fat-head, mainsail"
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-all-about-mainsails
Thx

Hi. It could be also called as "square-top, or fat-head, mainsail"
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-all-about-mainsails
Thx

Hi. It could be also called as "square-top, or fat-head, mainsail"
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-all-about-mainsails
Thx

No words...  
Thx

The rake of the masts in Amati's plans seems to be correct, so I copied it for my build.
 
Then I started shaping the masts out of Ramin wood:




 
 

Well, in fact there is a way to correct a mistake and remember it without feeling bad...Change its  artistic presence....
Thx
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/4157-my-greek-state-of-mind/?tab=comments#comment-118069
 

 
 
 

Trying to get used to that Mark, for some reason a mistake in the plans can sometimes "mesmerize" me and I end up following the plans, even against common sense. 😄
 
Good thing with our hobby is that everything is fixable if you have the time and patience.
 
Meanwhile in the build I spent a fun day cutting and soldering brass rings:
 

Well, in fact there is a way to correct a mistake and remember it without feeling bad...Change its  artistic presence....
Thx
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/4157-my-greek-state-of-mind/?tab=comments#comment-118069
 

 
 
 

Well, in fact there is a way to correct a mistake and remember it without feeling bad...Change its  artistic presence....
Thx
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/4157-my-greek-state-of-mind/?tab=comments#comment-118069
 

 
 
 

That is a great idea Thanasis!
 
Though I am afraid if I had to "rescue" every one of my own failed attempts in this manner I would soon run out of walls. 😄
 
 

Well, in fact there is a way to correct a mistake and remember it without feeling bad...Change its  artistic presence....
Thx
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/4157-my-greek-state-of-mind/?tab=comments#comment-118069
 

 
 
 

Well, in fact there is a way to correct a mistake and remember it without feeling bad...Change its  artistic presence....
Thx
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/4157-my-greek-state-of-mind/?tab=comments#comment-118069
 

 
 
 

Since the time I worked with plastic models there is a lesson that I have failed to learn again and again. My obsessive character will not allow me the rest if I do not fix a mistake, so I should not ignore things that my gut feeling tells me are not OK. Such a time came in this build with the rudder hinges. Since the time I cut them off the brass sheet I knew they were oversized for the scale. I went along with them, but it kept eating me inside. Then a friend (Thanasis from this forum) was kind enough to point it out. That was motivation enough to go back and fix it.
 
Only issue was that this "late" fix caused a bit of damage on the surrounding wood (as was to be expected) which I will have to address later, nothing major though.
 
Totally worth it! Both for the model's appearance and my sanity 😄
 
A photo of the resized hinges before the damage to the wood is addressed:
 

 

Hi all,
 
Moderators : Apologies if I've put this in the wrong place... please do move it.
 
I'm aware from watching the forums over a little while that uploading pictures to the forum can be a bit confusing and stressful, especially when it comes to why pictures that look fine are rotated wrong when they arrive on the website. It's confusing for us, but it also results in a bunch of questions to the moderators and admins on this site, which are hard to answer from afar.
 
To try and help with this, I've programmed an application for Windows 10 that takes images in one folder and puts them into another having resized and hardwired the rotation. If you then put more photos into the source folder, it'll just resize the new ones that haven't been resized before. You get to decide the maximum dimension of the resized image, and modify the filename for clarity. You can also set the quality of the new images to alter the amount of space the files created take up on your hard drive, and how much time they take to upload / download (this last piece of functionality was added after the video below was made.
 
Anyway - this YouTube video gives you an idea of what I've programmed... it describes installation and usage step by step.  I would STRONGLY recommend watching the video before you download the application and try it out. (It'll help me if I don't get asked to answer questions that are already answered in the video)
 
If it's helpful to you, you can find the video, and download link along with the documentation I'm half way through writing at the link below:
 
Please be aware - I've programmed this in my spare time... so whilst I use it myself, and it seems reliable, I can't be 100% sure it doesn't contain bugs. Please don't use it if you aren't happy to take responsibility for what it does to your computer. I can't take responsibility for loss of data / time or damage incurred as a result of using it. Nor can I offer 24/7 support (because it's just me). So - if you're happy to have a go, and try it out, then go ahead.  You will be asked to agree to this when you install it.
 
Download link and documentation:
https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/
 
 
 
 
Hope it blesses you. Let me know how you get on.
 
Rob Durant

This is really nice work.
Clean painting lines, nice hand crafts and impressive bow ornament.
Congratulations.
Thx
 

Take a look there: https://www.cherini.eu/etnografia/Italia2/index2.html  at no 117 and  in the next page, from no 188 to 202.
But I'm sure you will find interesting all  the  sketches...
Thx

About the "trincarino" and the frames, it's ok Gb.
I have been also through these misjudgments and as my teacher used to say: "I'm sure you will remember it in a next model".🙂
Well, my idea for representing of hairy cup-cover on the steampost is simple but I think quite effective.
Take a pipecleaner and make some loops on a rod close to the stempost's dimentions...
You can leave it this way, or you can cover the rod with thin paper, place some white glue and make the loops . 
If you don't like the usual color, you can use water colors and a paintbrush to make some black highlights.
Thx

Hi.
There's no need to place more frames... In fact, I think that pair in left and right of the stempost are not required but you may leave them as supporters of the gunwall and inner structures. 
I can't see clearly, so I guess  the same happens at sternpost.
But I I think an image speaks better...

So see the correct installation of the frames that are facing the central axis. You should think that if they were real frames, they already would have been installed vertically on the keel...
Trincarino is the Italian term (Trepetee or courzeto in Gr) for a kind of margin plate with cuts, that locks the frames at the level of the deck.
Depending on the method that a modeler  builds a hull,  is usually placed on an already finished deck and before the false frames on which they step...
See the links (needs translation even it's not accurate)
Thx
https://www.treccani.it/vocabolario/ricerca/trincarino/
 
https://nautipedia.it/index.php/Trincarino

You're right George. There is a transom in the stern although the bow follows the shape of a typical trechantiri's hull.
Well, it was not common but yes there were cases where in Gr. traditional shipbuilding,  transformations appeared  in a typical shape of a hull. These hulls-boats were called "Bastards" or "Mule" and were being built for certain use purposes ...
However I haven't hear or found anything about a Trechantiri with transom in Aegean Sea. 
So I can only guesses for what reason this occurred in some Gr. boats in Tarpon Springs.
One could be that it's been kept the transom from the original Symi's hull Skaphe, avoiding the narrow bow of her (as it was "Tserniki" hull with pointed prow), gaining this way space.
Another one could be the adjustment in the local sea conditions.
After all, you know the Gr. innovative spirit...
As about the rigging and although must be an engine in the boat, it's been kept Skaphe's mizzen. I guess again for the same reason as the initial one, where when a diver was at the seafloor, the captain (the boat) had to follow him by skillful handling of the tiller and the mizzen... 
Thx for the rostrum...

This is really nice work.
Clean painting lines, nice hand crafts and impressive bow ornament.
Congratulations.
Thx
 

This is really nice work.
Clean painting lines, nice hand crafts and impressive bow ornament.
Congratulations.
Thx
 

This is really nice work.
Clean painting lines, nice hand crafts and impressive bow ornament.
Congratulations.
Thx
 

It's been a while since I last posted, but progress has been made.  This update shows the addition of the bow ornament, rudder, tiller, forcolas (oar locks), masts, standing rigging, and the painted (and lightly weathered) hull.  The rest of the rigging, spars, and sails remain to be added.
 
 


 
I decided to carve a "ram's horn" style bow ornament; made from a wooden bead.



 
The large rudder was typical of these boats.

 
The forcolas are carved from basswood sheet.