Charter33

Hi Folks, The first of the challenges I chose to undertake was the rudder – to replicate the kit’s original piece, on the left, using the Victory oak. One side was cleaned up, the thickness then cut narrowly oversize with a band saw, and then the timber was sanded down to its final thickness of 5mm using the jig. The aroma of old oak (with a hint of tar?) added to the pleasure of the task. It was going to be a tight fit! After transferring the outline the shaping was done using a powered fretsaw and needle files. Job done! The finished rudder is mostly copper clad with the top section painted black – I’ll probably leave some of this upper area unpainted and just apply matt varnish; but that’s way off in the future…. Next – the copper plates. Cheers, Graham

Hi, Mort - the saw I went for is listed as a Zona sabre saw. I need it to sort out a gun port problem so looked for a saw with a blade that was slim, thin, had no 'back' rib and had fine teeth that will not cause the micro ply to splinter. I went for the version that is supplied with three blades, one of which has reversed teeth so cuts on the back stroke and this will probably be the one I'll use. Not an expensive option either which is always a bonus for a self confessed tool addict. I hope this does not break any site rules - if it does could someone let me know? David - thanks for your kind evaluation of my work. I'm certainly taking my time! I tried to reply to your p.m but somehow managed to delete it and lose the 'reply' button when I tried to send it. Even the link received on my phone chastised me for having the audacity for trying to use the link! (don't you just love technology!). Just to check - we're referring to parts 276? It's easy enough to remove. I'm a regular reader of Robert's build log but missed this. I fitted it as I am constructing the Trafalgar version. Looking forward to hearing the reasons as to why it's best fitted later. Cheers, Graham

Hi, Seasons greetings to all - I hope Santa has responded to the hints you may have been dropping recently as he (she) did for me - a quality razor saw that will help me rectify a minor issue with the upper gun deck inner bulwark gun port patterns. I'll explain more when I get this build log in sync with actual progress. Meanwhile, to continue the story..... Where do I start? Ever since I began this build I’ve had a nagging thought in the back of my mind – wouldn’t it be great to find a way to incorporate a piece of the original ship into the model. Did a bit of research (hours of ‘googling’) - but to no avail… ….then ….. There I am at an ‘exhibition of Contemporary Design’ (craft fair!) playing the dutiful ‘Sherpa’ (chauffeur, guide, provider of credit card and carrier of purchases) and found myself having a chance discussion with a stallholder that culminated in an absolute RESULT! To cut a long story short I am now the proud owner of a Certified piece of oak from the good ship herself from which I aim to make the model’s rudder. It gets even better. I also have a small scrap of the original copper hull plating and a piece of iron rod also from HMS Victory. I now have three challenges- Fabricating a rudder for the model from the piece of oak. Replicating a couple of the hull plates and use them in the model’s copper cladding. Incorporating the iron as part of the three pedestals that will eventually support the completed model on its display stand. Cheers for now, Graham

Hi, Construction of the Quarter Galleries went as per the instructions, which proved to be very accurate: ‘Time and care will be required…..’ Oh yes, and as many arms as an octopus wouldn’t go amiss! However, the effort was rewarded by the results and I must admit that that there’s much satisfaction, and a sense of relief, once the juggling of components is finished. The upper stern counter pattern fitted easily, and to achieve the slight concave curve on the lower stern counter pattern I decided to increase its pliability by wetting it and then zapping it briefly in the microwave. I then left it, suitably supported, under a cylindrical weight to cool down and fully dry out. The photos show the result. The next task was the middle gun deck planking. I wanted to simulate the treenails and the caulking between the planks. I’ve followed the various debates relating to how appropriate it is to have them on model of this scale but I like them and feel they are worth the effort. Little of this work will be visible once the hull is finished but it seemed like an ideal opportunity to try out different techniques in preparation for later in the build. For the caulking I went down the black thread route, running a line down each edge of the plank runs and also gluing a short length of thread to one end of each plank where it would butt up to the next. One minor problem was the side edges of the planks which were often slightly beveled, a bit rough or marginally wider than 4mm. Fine ‘wet and dry’ glued to a piece of MDF and a sanding aid sorted this out. The most successful method of simulating the treenails started with the marking of their positions on the ends of each plank. Another jig and a small watchmaker’s screwdriver ground to a point enabled the positions to be impressed, and these marks acted as the equivalent of centre punch marks on a piece of metal – enabling a 0.5mm PCB drill bit in a mini-drill to line up and make the hole without slipping. This drilling was done after all the planks had been glued down. The treenails themselves were made from slithers of teak veneer. These were dipped into PVA glue, then pushed into place and cut almost flush with a pair of side cutters. The adjacent photo shows the last one going in. Once the glue had had a chance to fully set any remaining protruding material was sliced off with a sharp chisel. Sanding the decking risked catching the caulking thread so a smooth surface was achieved by careful use of some scrappers. After any dust had been brushed or vacuumed the surface was sealed with a coat of matt varnish after which it proved safe enough to resort to fine glass paper between each of the subsequent two coats of varnish. The mast sleeve was fitted after the varnishing was done to make sanding the deck easier. To get the sleeve to bond to the varnished surface I resorted to rapid drying epoxy resin. These photos show the lining of the entry ports. The next stage, and one I’ve been looking forward to, is the second planking. Following the advice of other builds on this site (thanks to all!) I’m going to replicate the 30’ plank lengths. If my maths is right this makes a full plank 127mm long, with an overlap that works out at 2 inches. (apologies for mixing units of measurement – that’s just how my old brain works these days!) Cheers for now, Graham.

First Planking With the bulkheads set and the ply gunport patterns all glued in place the chamfering of the bulkheads were given a final ‘tweak’ prior to starting the planking. To help with this, and with the earlier shaping of the bulkheads, I put together a jig that held the model securely on its side. I found this helped with resisting the forces exerted when pushing the temporary pins in and could be used for the majority of the hull. Following the advice given on this site concerning tools I invested in a pair of plank nippers. A bit of practice quickly proved what a useful piece of equipment these are, although I wouldn’t use them on the ships boats as the inside of the first planking of these is visible and the small groves the nippers leave would show. I have to date finished the first planking of the launch and some of the second planking. The first couple of planks are laid without any need for tapering but to avoid forcing the initial planks into place I started by putting ‘stealers’ at both the bow and stern. For the most of the planking the procedure was: • Trim the plank end to match the stem • Taper the top edges (with a slight undercut as well) for the first and last four or so bulkheads by anything from 1/3rd to 2/3rds of the plank’s width as determined by offering the plank up to its position. Leave plenty of overlap at the stern for later trimming • Holding the plank in place pre-drill or bradawl (I used a map pin for this) pin holes through the plank and into a manageable number of bulkheads. (4 – 5 usually) • Apply glue to four or five bulkheads at a time where there will be contact with the plank • Apply glue to the matching length of the edge of plank • Pin plank to bulkheads, and use clips between bulkheads to ensure good edge to edge contact. Off-cuts of planking make great glue applicators! Keep telling yourself – it’ll be fine when its sanded……..it’ll be fine when it’s sanded…. A few ‘stealers’ where required, especially at the stern, but these were no problem to cut to fit the gaps. Sanding the hull to shape turned out to be more straight-forward than I anticipated but as it is a messy job the hull had to be transported to work for the task – you get some funny looks walking across the car park with one of these tucked under your arm! My only regret was filling blemishes with filler that was a bit darker than it could have been which tended to emphasize defects but as the whole lot gets covered with the second planking and subsequent painting it does not matter too much. Next installment - juggling the components that make the Quarter Galleries. Cheers for now, Graham

Hi Folks, Yet another Victory model under way. My kit was an anniversary present (25 years!) from ‘the Boss’. I first became aware of this model through the pre-issue information in a popular monthly magazine but had to dismiss the idea due to its cost. When it was suggested as a possible gift I didn’t need asking twice. The early stages of this build were originally shown on another website that unfortunately had to close down. I think it only fair to point this out as the rate of progress this build log will initially show will not be truly representative. Progress has been sporadic in the least. To be honest it’s taken me the best part of six years to get to where I am now (planking the upper gun deck) – life, work, other projects etc. all conspire to hold up progress. Initial construction was fairly trouble free, with the exception of an asymmetrical bulkhead 15. Dry assembly showed where the problem was so a new one was fashioned from some scrap ply I had lying around the workshop. The next challenge was drilling the holes in the keel for mounting the model later. I decided to insert 1/8th diameter brass tubes, with ply re-enforcement where needed, and to use steel pins to locate it onto a display base (one day!) To do this accurately it made a drilling jig based on a traditional design I use at work. Chamfering the bulkheads was one task I was not looking forward to, and it was at this point I discovered the value of websites such as this. Black felt pen lines on the back edge of the bulkheads that needed shaping ensured that I did not go beyond the profile. Concerned about how the lower ply gunport patterns would bend around the bow I cut a block of timber to fabricate a press forming tool. A card template was cut to match the shape of the bow and this was then transferred to the top of the block and band-sawed. The double cut design allowed both sides to be shaped at once. The ply was soaked for an hour, sandwiched between the blocks and left clamped for a day. The photo shows the result of a test run using waste from the gunport ply sheets. The strips were still slightly damp and pliable when removed from the former 24 hours later. With hind sight this was definitely ‘over kill’ and I probably wouldn’t resort to this method again, but it did the job! Details of my experiences with the first planking will follow…….. Cheers for now, Charter33.

Hi Robert, Your work is superb and a genuine inspiration. Your rate of progress is also most impressive. It has certainly helped encourage me with my build of this fine ship. Time, I think, to introduce myself formally on this site, and start to share my own experiences of the challenges this kit provides. Keep up the great work! Graham

Quite simply outstanding! Superb work, Heinz. Thank you for sharing it with us. Graham

Hi Rob, Yes, do it, not weird at all! I'm also building this model and through pure chance managed to get hold of a certified piece of the old girl herself and now have a complete rudder in original oak. I could smell the tar as I worked it. I am enjoying following your build - keep up the good work! Graham