Charter33

Hi Will, Lovely grain, very much like the figuring - my guess is walnut, but not the grade usually found in model ship building. As a veneer there is a beautiful box crying out to be encased in this........ my fingers and creative juices are itching in anticipation, you are one lucky bunny to have this to play with - good luck! (oh so jealous!) Cheers, Graham

Hi, Thank's for the comments and 'likes' gentlemen - always genuinely appreciated. Robert - your photographs of the original ship are proving to be a great source of information, as is your own impressive build log - thank you. Wallace - welcome aboard! In fairness I feel I should flag up the observation that has occasionally been made on this site that although the main aim of this hobby is to complete a well made model, the journey travelled to achieve this is equally, if not more, enjoyable and important. That said I must confess that sometimes I will occasionally climb off and break the journey, take a deep breath and admire the view for a while, usually by choice, but sometime forced by circumstance. It's taken a while to get to the current stage, and there's a long way to go - but I will get there, eventually. No pressure..... Cheers, Graham

Hi, I can't believe it's over a year since I last added to this build log.....! Here are some details of the progress that I have made: With the quarter deck in place it was time to cut the tops off the forward bulkheads. Next job was to re-install the outer forecastle gunport strips that had been removed following the advice of Shipyard Sid. The beakhead bulkhead had the roundhouses fitted and was painted. It will have the additional decoration added before it is finally glued into place. It’s currently just dry fitted. With the deck planked and tree nailed, using the method previously explained, and inner bulwarks fitted… …. I made up the quarterdeck screen assembly...... I decided to try and produce a modified version of the belfry. The uprights provided in the kit seemed to lack detail of the mouldings as shown in John McKay’s ‘Anatomy of the Ship’ and were restricted to just the front and back surfaces. I also wanted to replicate the copper roof. After a bit of experimentation, and a few failures, I came up with a way to press form thin copper sheet into an acceptable shape. This is the result ….. Second planking on the outside of the hull and inside the bulwarks was completed, gunports lined and then all painted. The cap strips were glued into place. I couldn’t find anything provided for the small curved sections just ahead of the poop deck so laminated some. Two strips of walnut were soaked and then clamped around a former, in this case a wooden collet I had made to hold ‘turned’ wooden components for some automata I’ve been making. Once they had dried these were glued and re-clamped before being cut and sanded to size and fitted into place. Forecastle gratings were assembled but I chose to make them up separately from the deck rather than following the method outlined in the instructions. Having gone to the trouble of trying to replicate the dovetail details of the coaming joints on the gratings on the previous deck, (which are now hardly visible!), I was keen to try and do the same thing here. Probably the hardest aspect was trying to sand the slight curve that was needed on the top surface. The galley chimney was given a bit of attention with the addition of two handles and the impression of the seam on the main body prior to painting, using pictures of the chimney found on-line as a guide. The Forecastle Breast Beam assembly has also now been completed. All these pieces are dry fitted and will be glued in place once some more painting has been done, including the cap strips, and a few other additions have been added to the inner bulwarks. Cheer for now, Graham.

Gorgeous!!!! A stunning build..... thank you for sharing Graham

Hi Mark, Without doubt a bold choice for your first model ship! Having said that I should own up and admit that it so happens that it is my own 'second' build and as a relative novice I can appreciate where you're coming from. You're in for a great journey and joining this forum is probably the best thing you could have done to help you on your way, There are some stunning build logs here and I could not have made the progress I have without the sage advice of other members. Many build logs are now my first port of call when tackling new and challenging stages. Of the builds currently under way I recommend the work of 'Bertu' as a good starting point but there are also many others - using the search function to find these builds is time well spent. As for helping other novices to benefit from your expected mistakes, take look at my log - I made some real howlers! Looking forward to seeing your work. Cheers, Graham

Another stunning picture - and just a hint of Turners 'Fighting Temeraire' in the sunset and juxtoposition of sail and steam? Love it. Thank you.

Just a quick note - there are grades of ply that are produced specifically for laser cutting - we use them with the students at school. They char much less than birch ply of similar thickness. Another tip - when cutting wood with the laser cutter I often set the machine up to run at a lower power / faster speed setting and repeat the cut several times until full penetration is achieved. I developed this technique when teaching myself how to use the machine and software by drawing and cutting components for an R/C model aircraft from balsa wood. This reduces burning and is very useful for those small or delicate parts. I have successfully used this on lime (basswood), mahogany, yew and cherry - although not necessarily all for model ship building. I also fully agree with the previous post about using MDF... Best way to learn is to dive in and 'play'. Good luck! Graham.

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says, use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest. Graham.

Hi and welcome to this highly informative and supportive site! It's been my experience that there is little difference in working with wood that has been kiln dried or air dried as long as it has been done sufficiently in the case of air dried. As a rule of thumb it takes about a year per inch of thickness. Poorly seasoned wood will very likely warp, twist or split. Kiln dried tends to be more expensive because of the higher energy costs involved (plus all the possible associated environmental impacts). There is more control over the final moisture content however, and the process is much quicker - months rather than years. Producers often use a combination of the two forms of seasoning to balance cost against time. Just one other point to consider - kiln dried timber can have a different appearance to air dried. Beech in particular can take on a 'pinker' colour when kiln dried compared to a 'creamier' finish of air dried. This has something to do with the steam that is pumped into the kiln initially to deal with any insect or fungal issues prior to the main heating to reduce the moisture content I think. Hope this helps. Graham.

Thanks for the comments you added to my build log Patrick - your comments are much appreciated. I've just been reading your build log (can't understand how I managed to miss it before!). Lots of good advice and I gained some important insights into the challenges that lie ahead. Thank you - your log will be a regular port of call and I look forward to following it in the future. Progress with my own model has also been adversely effected similar health issues over the last couple of years, both my own and the Admiral's, so I think I know where you're coming from.... Keep up the good work. Graham

Hi, I've managed to make a bit more progress...... I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square. The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other. With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck. The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship......... The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts. The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place. Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting.... Cheers, Graham

Kindred spirits - so it's not just me!!! Forced into semi-retirement from a career in teaching by health issues, I had great plans for all that wonderful time I would gain - model ship building in daylight hours (Victory and Triton), re-building my Norton etc.. Fat chance!!! The Boss (Admiral) had other ideas including not only renovating the bathroom but also the sitting room and then the kitchen, and all on top of the usual daily tasks essential to achieve that secret to married bliss ie. anything for a quiet life. I now work in the classroom three days a week 'for a rest'. Naps, naps? no time for such luxuries. So much wood to shape ..... so little time .... Excellent work, Gabek. I'll be following your progress with interest. Graham

Hi, Fitting the upper deck screen bulkhead proved a little more challenging than the simple instruction in the manual. To get it to fit accurately around the beam shelves, stringers and waterways numerous card templates were made before finally trimming and adjusting the screen. To square off the ends of the support pillars and staircase balusters I designed and made these..... ... a pair of sanding aids for each. The '2nd' of each pair has the depth of the recess reduced by 0.4 mm to compensate for the initial reduction in thickness. All done ..... ... and taken back to the original colour with walnut wood stain. Bases of supports and balusters were drilled and fitted with thin brass rod, CA glued in place, before being finally located into matching sized holes drilled into the coamings or deck as required. The elm tree pump was fitted in a similar way. Cheers, Graham.

Hi, Made a bit more progress, slower than hoped for admittedly, but things should speed up in the new year! Production of the tackles begins.......... I gave up with the modified wooden pegs to hold the blocks while the hooks and ropes were being attached. Instead I made use of the left-over brass frames that held the eyelets (480). Pressed into a block of hard foam half a dozen blocks could be mounted with the hooks supported with lace making brass pins. A slit made in the edge of the foam with a scalpel secured the rope until the knot was tied and then given a coat of clear matt lacquer. The thin aluminium tube has the head of a pin crimped in one end - an inexpensive but effective tool to get small drops of glue into awkward places. The final batch of tackles gets assembled............ I'm guessing that time spent practicing tying tiny knots with tweezers is going to be a useful skill when I eventually get to the rigging........ After several sessions the gun carriages have now all been mounted. A Merry Christmas to one and all! Cheers, Graham

Superb work, Robert. Your accuracy and attention to detail is an inspiration - as ever! Cheers, Graham

Having missed the first half of episode one of the series (and the last 15 minutes due to having to pick the admiral up from her latest 'evening class'!) I have just watched the whole 'Victory' program on catch up and thoroughly enjoyed it. After a bit of surfing the net I have discovered that it is being repeated tomorrow (22nd Sept on channel 5S at 5.00 pm if you can access it. Although one Channel 5 web page says 2 episodes in the series, another page on the same site quotes 6. Confusing, but the production company site (Windfall) lists programs on Victory, Mary Rose, the Golden Hinde, Cutty Sark, SS Great Britain and HMS Belfast. TV now set to record the series - but I hope they have the sense to release the series on DVD.

Just in case you were unaware, as I was until my sister-in-law emailed me a few minutes ago, Channel 5 (in the UK) are currently showing an hour long program on HMS Victory and Nelson,(8.00pm start). Enjoy!!! Cheers, Graham

Thanks for the 'likes'. Kevin - appearances are very deceptive. The secret is to use the camera 'creatively'. Get in close, tight focus and the mess is out of the picture. Most of the time the room I use is controlled chaos, not helped by the admiral considering the man cave as an ideal dumping ground for some of her bits and pieces. 😏

I needed a bit of a break from rigging up guns and carriages......... so I decided to mark out and drill the holes for their eyelets and rings ...... The holes for the 'trial' gun carriage shown previously were made by hand with the drill bits held in a pin vice. To make the process easier and quicker I invested in a flexible drive for the dremel I 'won' from my youngest son after he had moved on from a jewelry making 'phase'. There was a slight problem initially when the drill chuck was transferred to the end of the new drive. It is able to hold drills down to 0.4 mm, and probably smaller, when fitted directly to the hand set but the mounting thread of the new drive is shorter. This meant that although it could hold the shaft of the cutting and sanding mandrels small drill bits where far too small for the chuck jaws to grip. I managed to overcome this by turning and inserting a small brass extension bush in the back of the chuck and normal service was resumed . Looking at the deck plan in my copy of Longridge's 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' I thought that the skid beams supplied with the kit lacked a bit of detail and decided to try and replace the originals with ones that have the distinctive scarf joint. Using cherry from my HMS Triton build I came up with these ...... Spot the mistake I made with the first two? These were replaced with a couple more, with the scarf the right way round. These next two pictures show the first dry assembly .....and now back to the gun carriage production line - 'only' 20 more barrels to mount, then 90 sets of blocks and tackles to assemble and fit.......... Cheers for now, Graham.

Hi, Thank you for your kind comments and 'likes'. David - Good to see you back. I'd seen that you had resumed building your HMS Diana and have been looking out for your updates. I particularly like the way you dealt with the deck planking. I'm sure it was your advice I followed about threading all the eyelets onto the breech rope before fitting it to the gun carriage. It worked a treat. Robert - Yes, the hooks were made from eyelets supplied with the kit. They are the 480 eyelets, the same as you show after 'blacking' on your build log. I'm not sure how generous the manufacturers are in the quantity of these they provide but if I run short of them later I know that they are easily obtainable from either them or CMB. To shape them I made a jig that used dress making pins liberated from the Admirals sewing box to secure and then provide support as the eyelets were bent using a combination of cocktail sticks and a home made bradawl to push them into shape. If it would help you I could send you a basic jig like the 'MK 2' (white acrylic) one which enables 10 hooks to be done at a time. Speeds things up a bit when you need to do 180! PM me your address if you're interested. Cheers, Graham.

Work continues with the upper gun deck cannons ........ I've decided to replace the breech rope eyelets on the carriages with larger ones as I hope to increase the diameter of this rope to 1 mm rather than the recommended size that seems a bit small when compared with images I found on the web. These are Mantua Models eyelets but while the rings are okay, the second piece of each fitting needed to have the 'loop' tightened up a bit. This was achieved by pulling them part way through an improvised draw plate. After fitting the breech rope and it's eyelets to the barrel it was mounted on the carriage. A short length of brass rod with a small dimple added to one end was used as a simple drift to push the round headed pins into their pre-drilled holes. Trying to get the breech ropes to hang appropriately.......... Rigging hooks attached to 2mm blocks ... ...strung .... .... and attached And finally my first attempt to install one ...... One down, 29 to go ...... Cheers, Graham.

Started work on the tackles for the gun carriages. Eyelets have been bent.... .... twisted....... .... and blackened (after chemically cleaning approximately 15 seconds in Birchwoood Casey Brass Black) Joining a rigging hook to a 2mm single block, and a first attempt at bringing it all together ..... Cheers, Graham.

Another sunning piece of work. Love the detail and the atmosphere your work conveys. I was starting to get withdrawal symptoms - keep up the good work. Graham.

.... there's no such thing as 'stupid questions' ...... Good luck! Graham