Charter33

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Part_016
 
A few pieces of the top ply on either side of the tail fell off and were lost when it broke. I glued the tail in place, and let it set overnight. I then spent a couple days building up the surface with layers of the Canopy Glue. After the glue had completely dried, I painted the damaged area and the lasered edge with white paint.
 

 
Here on the backside, you can see a slight bump of extra glue on the corner, after the paint dried, I carefully sanded this off. The cat was now whole again!
 

 
Now comes the assembly of the wall and tram assembly to the base. This picture shows the three sections ready for attachment.
 

 
The wall goes on first. No glue yet.
 

 
After ensuring that everything lined up, I applied glue to the outside edges.
 

 
In order to get the bridge surface and the front beam to sit correctly together, I had to clamp it. Sharp eyed modelers will note a problem with this picture. The cross arm on the crossing gate is missing in action! The arm broke off while I was trying to get the tram assembly in place. This made it easier to place the central clamp, but what a pain! The arm was located and will be glued on later. If you build this kit, I would recommend waiting until after the whole bridge is together to attach the crossing gate and the tree.
 

 

I also had to clamp the pier that supports the porch, as the tab would not sit properly in its slot.
 

 
Up until I repaired the cat, I have been using the colored pencils on the exposed edges, with fair results. But one of the upcoming parts to go on is the front of the case. This has long prominent edges, especially were it meets the stream bed. The pencils just are not enough for this. I decided to mix a custom paint color using my stash of Vallejo paints. The Vallejo bottles have a very small opening, even after you pull of the dispenser tip, so manually stirring them is a losing proposition. To solve this, I put a small stainless-steel ball in each bottle, the first time I use it. The ones I use, shown in the photo below, are specially made for use with water-based paint. Regular SS balls can still rust, if left in permanently. I bought mine through the Web. I have 8mm balls I put in the larger bottles of primer.
 

 
I pull off the tip drop in a ball and replace the tip. Shaking the bottle until the ball rattles around freely does the job.
 

 
I put a large black spot on the label to show that bottle already has a mixing ball, using a Sharpie.
 

 
After some experimenting, I used these three colors (Pale Blue Gray, Black, and Blue) to match the masonry color used in the kit. It is just very slightly a different shade, but on the edge it matches closely.
 

 
The proportions I used were:
 
10 Parts gray
2 parts black
2 parts blue
 
For the little I needed I just mixed them in the paint tray.  The Vallejo bottles are designed so that it is easy to dispense them a drop at a time, and that is how I measured them out., using 10 drops of the gray to start with. If I had needed a large batch, I have several empty bottles the same form factor as the Vallejo ones, I bought on line. I bought these a few years ago, and have no idea where I found them. I think a search for 17mL paint bottles would turn them up.
 
Here is a picture of the painted edge.
 

 
I went back and painted as many of the masonry edges as I could reach, at this late stage of construction. The Vallejo paints had no trouble going over the colored pencil marked surfaces.
 
The next step was to reattach the gate arm. There is not a whole lot of contact area, and the mirror will be behind the tram, so I don’t want to add a rear brace, in case it would show. I came up with this setup to hold the arm while a glob of glue dries on the joint. I used extra glue here, counting on it drying clear and sitting at the back of the diorama, to hide it. I wanted the extra to reinforce the joint. The clothes pin on the left is being used as a wedge to position the clamped tip of the arm.
 

 
Here is the arm the next day. I may pull it a little forward and glue it to the back of the railing. I don’t know how well the glue will support the arm as time goes on. Yes, the trolley pole also broke off, I glued it back on today.
 

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

I think that's a good idea...almost like creating a 'contact cement' bond between the two.
 
However, I am going to CA glue. I actually laid out 7  planks on the port side today.
The picture brings out the glue sloppiness that I can't see in person. I noticed that when I was painting the Titanic. It would look great, smooth finish and great detail, then I would take a picture to post and all the imperfections of air brushing came to light. 
 
Same here.

 
 
I just looked at a couple of other build projects and it appears their 2nd planking at the bow are running higher up than mine.
If I look at the build below ( I am almost positive it is Robert29's build), and count down from the inner most gammoning slot, he has 5 planks
When I count the same on my build I too have 5, but it just seems like his are more 'even' with the waterline.
I suppose it won't matter in the end as I am painting my model and he didn't and if I make sure the wales follow the plan, the actual direction of the planking isn't the end of the world....if it is.....just sigh and pity me.
 


 

 
Overall, I am pleased with the results. Looking up at the picture above certainly looks lumpy, but in real like I just love it!
 
I still have to truck on and begin the hard planking, but I am hopeful!
 
Thanks to all for looking in on me and offering help. Much appreciated.
Chris

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

Thank you for the likes and kind and encouraging comments. Robert, I still visit your build log for inspiration. Have you managed to get your Victory mounted on that intriguing base that you were working on? I look forward to seeing it done......
First step with the channels, once they had been cut from the sheet and cleaned up, was to fit some mounting/location pins. These were made from fine brass lace makers pins with the heads cut off.
Next the pin positions on the hull were marked and drilled with a 0.5 mm drill bit.

Deadeyes were slotted into strops and the nib joint soldered, self locking tweezers keeping things together.

A small hole at the bottom of each cut out in the channels acted as locating aids before the covering strip was glued in place.
The white metal castings for the studding sail boom bracket and the support were filed to appear closer to the shape shown in Longbridge's illustration (page 94)......


... the 'waist' just inboard of the ends achieved with a half round needle file
and a simple jig constructed from matches..


Once glued in place, to simulate the method these components are fixed to the channel, the pin heads previously cut off were literally pressed into service.

All the assemblies were painted...


These are just dry fitted at the moment. I've decided to add the brass decorations to the hull first, and the advice is that it could also aid the fitting of the top row of gun ports - thanks Robert!😄


Cheers,
Graham.

That's right - model making area at the far end, wood turning lathe on the right, and woodworking bench to the left at the near end.

Steady progress. The engine is mostly built now, some touch ups to do. 

Welcome Chris, from another Caldercraft Victory builder. You've certainly got off to a flying start! It's a challenging model, but lots of enjoyable and rewarding tasks lay ahead. 
It may seem way ahead in the future, but it might be worth considering how you are going to display the model once complete. I mention this as some methods need a bit of preparation such as pre-drilling holes in the bottom of the keel etc. before progress with the hull construction interferes or makes the task more difficult.
One technique I wish I had used, because at that time I was unaware of it, is the infilling of the spaces between some of the bulkheads, notably at the bow and stern, with a soft and carvable wood to help with the construction of the first planking.
As you say, there are some truly inspirational build logs here on this site and time spent reading through them is genuinely time well spent. I always refer to the work of these very skilled builders together with the comprehensive instructions provided by Caldercraft. My build is only my second model ship. The first was nearly 40 years ago followed by long period of absence while a growing family took precedence.
Good luck, I'll be following your progress with much interest.
Cheers,
Graham.

Engine underway. Quite fiddly, and I'm wondering if I can make the Rolls Royce wording stand out a bit.  But it is really detailed, good job by Airfix.
 
 

Hi Graham;
Thanks for the tip about setting up display options now. I will most likely just go with a stand where the finished boat just rests on it, rather than create an  internal rod type system.
 
Also, you are right about adding fill to the fore and aft bulkheads. I am not doing that and it is evident. The bow planks between bulkheads 2 and 1 are suffering because of a lack of solid backing. There is a bit of stagger in the planks and not as much roundness from #1 to the actual keel stem.
 
My thought as my impatience made me just move forward without it was this...I would have used small soft pine blocks (no balsa around here that I could get quick enough), I would have created a 2 templates, created a series of wedding cake triangles, glued them together, sand them into submission.
 
After hours of doing that, I would have started
 
Or, I could just press on and spend those hours after sanding, filling and sanding into shape. Same time spent, but it soothed my impatience.
 
THANKS!
Chris 

Your comment is much appreciated Ron. With reference to decoration on the figurehead, I based it on photographs found on the internet of the current design, a research source I also used for the stern decoration and the entry ports. Unfortunately there is often confusion and disparity when comparing contemporary images to earlier historic pictures. So much has changed over the years, and this includes styles of carving etc. as much as application of colour! The point I'm trying to make here is that it may not be an accurate rendition of what was there in the past, but hopefully it's close enough 😉

Bow done now for the stern fascias.

Back in the shipyard, and picking up from where I had got to on the Victory build.
The first step was to get the white metal components for the two entry ports painted. These later additions to the vessel didn't exist when the ship was launched, neither were they fitted at the battle of Trafalgar. The models castings appear a little different to those shown in my 'go to' reference sources so I relied heavily on internet images.

Tricky to achieve the result I had in mind, especially the line of rivets/studs under the front and side edges if the canopy. The colour of the sheathing on this first attempt was way out, so I had a go at mixing my own version of what I guess is lead from my small stock of enamels. These decorations were fixed in place with epoxy glue.

An unexpected task next, and totally self inflicted. Sorting out the various parts that form the steps up to, around and above the port I found that the two steps immediately below the ports had gone AWOL. I think they had become detached from their walnut sheet back when I was tackling the belfry. Classic mistake - I put them somewhere 'safe'..... and they disappeared into another dimension. Eventually solved by converting a scrap piece of stock to the required profile and then deducing their length from the remnants of the hole where they once resided when originally machined.

Masking tape helped align the steps and a couple of scaps of redundant planking made a simple 2 mm spacer for the gaps between them.
Finally the fenders and chesstrees were painted and added.

The three 'Victory' copper plates I mentioned back in posts #12 and #42 can be seen under each entry port.
Good to be back at the work bench.
Cheers.
Graham

Reviewing the instruction manual for the hull I realized that I had missed one of the final steps on the bow, namely the brass moulding that runs from the base of the cat-heads to the upper bow rails. Before events temporarily halted progress I did get as far as annealing the strip of brass profile. Seems I'm not alone in this omission, this component is also conspicuous by its absence from the photograph of the otherwise completed hull example that adorns the front cover of the manual! 😄
First task was to make a card template to guide the shaping...

The bending jig I made earlier in post #135 came in handy again


After shaping the tricky job of marking out and then removing a section of wale to get the moulding to sit against the hull......


Dry fit....

Before painting the ends were filled with soft solder to be more in keeping with contemporary photographs 

Finally glued in place

and after a bit of filler the paint work had its first touching up.

I'll be checking it again under natural light tomorrow.
A couple more views:


Channels and chainplates next.......
Cheers,
Graham.

That's right - model making area at the far end, wood turning lathe on the right, and woodworking bench to the left at the near end.

There are quite enough gun ports and gun muzzles on a model of Victory to last a lifetime, without adding more to the workshop itself, Ron 🤣
....but the Admiral's input to the build was a request for a weather vane above the door, and you've now planted the seed of an idea..... and I love a challenge!

Installing the floorboards started with a plan, much used throughout the build, and now well worn....

In keeping with the nautical flavour there was only one method guiding the laying, the four step butt planking pattern.
Once a board was cut to an appropriate length fixing holes were pre-drilled with a 12 mm spade bit and each piece secured to the sub-floor. 

A 1/2" plug cutter was used to convert offcuts of boards into covers for the screws.

Mixing metric and imperial tools in this way resulted in a nice tight fit. Once these plugs had been glued in place a sharp chisel made quick work of getting them level and flat.

The floor after sanding -

No, not quite treenails, but visible at this scale?

Oh yes, but nice and subtle.....
The first coat of finish has been applied,

the second and final coat will go on tomorrow evening after a light sanding.
Cheers,
Graham
 

Totally agree Rodger, and tool protection is very high on my prority list. I'll be looking to fit a de-humidifier in there, especially after seeing what happened to one of my friends last year when a freak temperature swing of over 12 degrees one night made his pre-fab concrete workshop look like it had rained inside. He was mopping up pools of water and had to spend days dealing with surface rust on tools and equipment.
I started preping the floor area yesterday and this included laying a vapour barrier on top of the OSB sub- floor base. The softwood boards have had nearly a week to acclimatise, so I plan to escape to the bottom of the garden later and begin fitting them......
Cheers,
Graham

One wheel assembly completed with the 40 steel spokes…should add interest to the model. Replaced the inflation nipple with a bit of leftover brass from Mikasa, and painted the spoke nipples around the rim. They looked kind of cool left as brass but I think painted is a probably a little more realistic. Overall I’m quite happy with the outcome as opposed to the plastic version.