Charter33

Today’s painting , Dak Tug
w/c 16” X 11”

Hi,
I've managed to make a bit more progress......
I did a dry run with the skid beam assembly fitted to the quarter deck to check the height the supports needed to be trimmed to. This turned out to be a couple of mm shorter than the drawing on the plan. I came up with this aid to help remove the correct amount from each end and then sand the ends square.

 
The companionway guard rails could now be completed. I opened out the holes in the end stanchions so two threads could pass through, using one to 'serve' the other.

 

 
With the steam trunk fitted, plus the galley chimney (shown on the plan but not mentioned in the instructions!!!) it was time to fit the quarter deck.
 
The rear third of the deck glued in place, the weights used to hold things together while the glue dried giving the appearance of an 18th Century container ship.........

 
The skid beam assembly has been painted as have the various brace bitts.
 
The front of the deck, including these, was then glued onto place.

 

 

 

 
Next task - assembling the beakhead bulkhead prior to fitting....
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Work continues with the upper gun deck cannons ........
 
I've decided to replace the breech rope eyelets on the carriages with larger ones as I hope to increase the diameter of this rope to 1 mm rather than the recommended size that seems a bit small when compared with images I found on the web. These are Mantua Models eyelets but while the rings are okay, the second piece of each fitting needed to have the 'loop' tightened up a bit. This was achieved by pulling them part way through an improvised draw plate.

 

 

 
After fitting the breech rope and it's eyelets to the barrel it was mounted on the carriage.  A short length of brass rod with a small dimple added to one end was used as a simple drift to push the round headed pins into their pre-drilled holes.

 

 
Trying to get the breech ropes to hang appropriately..........

 
Rigging hooks attached to 2mm blocks ...

 
...strung ....
 

 
.... and attached

 
And finally my first attempt to install one ......

 
One down, 29 to go ......
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Today is the 75th anniversary of the start of the Liberation of Europe by the Allies during The Second World War.
One of the Beaches.
To them all “THANK YOU”
Jim

Mark, thank you for your nice comments.
 
 Patrick, thank you  and good luck on your return to your Victory.  Hope you enjoy building it as much as I am enjoying it.  
A fortnight ago I visited my daughter in Stratford-Upon-Avon where she lives and works, and she was nice enough, together with her partner, to drive me down to Portsmouth to visit the real Victory.  We stayed there for the night where we had a great time. Weather was beautiful and I really enjoyed my visit to the Victory.  When I sort the photos I took I will upload some of them.
 
In the meantime I have an update for my build.  I continued work on the rear of the quarterdeck so that I will be able to fit the poop deck.
 
 
Fitted and wired three lanterns. Screens are only dry fitted for the moment, just to get a position were to place the lanterns and the cannons.


 
Carriages in place and all rigged.  Ships wheel assembled and fitted in place with thread lashed around the barrel and going down through the quarterdeck.  Binnacle also fitted in place and lashed to the quarterdeck.

 
Screen assembly glued in place 

 
I boxed the wiring passing along the beam to make sure they do not show through the gunport since the cabin is going to be lit by the lanterns.



 
Robert

Foggie Thames
Afternoon quickie
Jim
W/C 11” X 7”

Maris Stella Ltd is pleased to announce the addition of the HMS Speedy, HMS Vensejo and HMS Sophie Brig-Sloops, in 1:48 scale, to its model ship kit line. Speedy and Vensejo have been heavily researched. HMS Sophie is our version of the fictional Brig-Sloop, representing a combination of the two, described in a novel by Patrick O'Brian. The Maris Stella kit version of HMS Speedy uses the sail plan, rigging, armament and flagging as of her original commissioning. To maximize authenticity, we have freshly designed all cannon, carronade and swivel guns for the three kits, each of the type, weight and time frame appropriate, using Armstrong and Blomefield construction formula, historical patterns and photos of antiques.
 
Maris Stella kits are suitable for intermediate level modelers. For those who want to go a step beyond, we are providing copper hull plates, details on period appropriate stains and paint schemes, and rigging rope diameter information. Anticipated order of release is Speedy, Vensejo and Sophie, in that order, in a time frame from 2018 through the first half of 2019.
 
This HMS Speedy model will be a market-class leader. Our three-dimensional modeling of the Admiralty draughts and the kit’s plank on bulwark hull construction with 19 bulkheads makes it easy for even casual modelers to achieve the original hull lines with great accuracy. 
 
At this time, I only have permission to show a few of instruction book draft 3D renders of HMS Speedy.  Note how the model achieves the novel look and feel of the Speedy-Class Brig!
 
 
 
 
Regards,
Zoran
 

For now I have finished with the poly coats. The law of diminishing returns finally won the day. I think in the end it was somewhere between 12 and 15 coats.
 

 
Under the stern are three outlets - one is clearly the exhaust and the purpose of the other two is unclear - at least to me?


I placed masking tape in the position of the nearest frame and then transferred the position of the holes on to the hull. The diameters were scaled from the plan. I forgot that the positions were reversed on the upturned hull and marked the holes as a mirror image of what they should have been. Fortunately I caught the error before I drilled the holes.

I also drilled the holes for the dolphin striker eye bolt and the stay bracket.

Blind ended brass inserts were turned for the holes under the stern and a drop of black paint was placed at the bottom of the hole to hide the end.

The various brass hull attachments were safely collected in jar lid for future use.
 
The next step was to finally decide on the hull paint scheme. Over the course of 2 hours I made four separate decisions all of which were different. Rather than make a decision I started sorting trough my stock of paint pots. At this point my current wife walked into the workshop,  observed what I was doing and commented:-
"You aren't going to paint it, ARE YOU!"
I think I could interpret this as a question - what do you all think?
 
   

Thank you Wallace.
 
I continued working on the bow section.
 
The four head timbers glued in place .


 
Rails shaped, painted and fitted in place.

Decided to fit a strip of wood over the timber heads and rails.

 
Brass profile shaped, painted and glued in position across the beakead bulkhead.

 
Pilasters also painted and glued in place.

 
This is how I rounded the pilasters for the round houses.
I found a socket the exact diameter of the round house, got a water hose clip, first I shaped the pilasters to more or less the shape of the round house with my hands, placed it round the socket, placed the hose clip around it and tightened. It came out a perfect round shape.

 
Fitted doors and gun ports and platform.

Fitted main rail, which is also forms the outer part of the timberhead.



Also. added a ring handle to the doors,




That's all for today.
 
Robert
 

Just a quick note - there are grades of ply that are produced specifically for laser cutting - we use them with the students at school. They char much less than birch ply of similar thickness. 
Another tip - when cutting wood with the laser cutter I often set the machine up to run at a lower power / faster speed setting and repeat the cut several times until full penetration is achieved. I developed this technique when teaching myself how to use the machine and software by drawing and cutting components for an R/C model aircraft from balsa wood. This reduces burning and is very useful for those small or delicate parts. I have successfully used this on lime (basswood), mahogany, yew and cherry - although not necessarily all for model ship building. I also fully agree with the previous post about using MDF...
Best way to learn is to dive in and 'play'.
Good luck!
Graham.

Just a quick note - there are grades of ply that are produced specifically for laser cutting - we use them with the students at school. They char much less than birch ply of similar thickness. 
Another tip - when cutting wood with the laser cutter I often set the machine up to run at a lower power / faster speed setting and repeat the cut several times until full penetration is achieved. I developed this technique when teaching myself how to use the machine and software by drawing and cutting components for an R/C model aircraft from balsa wood. This reduces burning and is very useful for those small or delicate parts. I have successfully used this on lime (basswood), mahogany, yew and cherry - although not necessarily all for model ship building. I also fully agree with the previous post about using MDF...
Best way to learn is to dive in and 'play'.
Good luck!
Graham.

Good evening everyone
 
things i know that have to be done
4/18 pendants to be finished off
replace 20 copper tiles and then apply a salt wash to tone it all down
rope coils  - this week
lanterns
2 tucks on mizzen mast
kedge anchors -  this week
check/ and secure any loose ends
bowspit netting
obtain  at lease one ships boat - not bothering
rig port stun boon
general tidy and touch up - ongoing
mast tops
Flags - to be redone as the one i had had fraying
 
 

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy
finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says,  use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest.
Graham.

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy
finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says,  use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest.
Graham.

Wood finishes seems to have prompted a degree of debate - I thought I would update on progress with my unsophisticated approach.
 
I am now on coat 3, coat two having dried eventually. Before applying coat 3 I sanded out the portholes to 8mm with my improvised cone sander (basically a dowel with  cone turned on the end and a piece of 240 grit sandpaper stuck on)

The holes sanded out quite nicely.

And then it was on with coat 3.

In parallel I started making the compass binnacle which I will start to cover in the next post
 
 
 

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy
finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy
finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says,  use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest.
Graham.

I'm just grateful we have such a variety of modern alternatives to chose from. 40 'coats' might sound extreme but 'bodying up' the surface, especially on an open grained timber quickly accounts for many, and several can be applied in one session before the rubber starts to grab. I share the preference for a less glassy
finish, but watching a skilled polisher achieve one using a clean rubber soaked in meths, hovering just above the surface of the polish with just the fumes producing the final finish is a inspiration.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says,  use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest.
Graham.

I use both pumice powder and rottenstone to refine french polish, reducing a 'glassy / gloss' finish to a satin or more matt finish. I usually use a soft lint free cloth dipped in a little linseed oil to pick up the powder and, as Druxey says,  use a circular motion to apply it to the french polished surface. To achieve a good finish can take up to 40 coats of french polish, but the biggest difference between shellac polish and other varnishes is the way each layer dissolves into the previously applied layers rather than lying on top. It's this that produces such a beautiful effect. Not sure I'd use this on a model ship itself, but probably on a stand or display cabinet. Hope this is of some interest.
Graham.

This is what I used.  I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface.  I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans.  I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull.
 
Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line.  Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section.  Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is.  Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be.  This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape.  Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape.  You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull. 

Making a sail ...