Charter33

Thank you for your generous comments, Christian. I apologize for not being in a position to reply sooner which brings me to the main reason for this particular up date.
There has been little progress recently, initially due to work pressures (the end of a school term is a busy time!) and then at the start of the new year I finally was given a date for a follow up medical procedure that had been on the cards since August last year. I have subsequently been off work, returning home after a month in the very capable hand of the NHS yesterday. Access to this site was limited to very variable connectivity with my phone, but being able to follow the work of others here certainly helped the time to pass. 
I have, therefore, had to put this build on temporary hold . I will get back to it, I promise. It's a real challenge, and a steep learning curve, but so much fun. When I am up to it I intend to drop into work and while there I'm planning to pick up the cherry pieces that I've prepared and print off some frame drawings so that I can at least make some progress back home with my more limited equipment.
In the mean time I will be focusing on my HMS Victory build and, for a bit of a technical challenge, continue working on my design for a rope walk.
The secret is to stay positive and as busy as possible. Onwards and upwards ......
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Thanks for that Guy, but still a long way to go! 
I'm hoping to get back to work next month and when time permits I'll be tackling  those hawse timbers. I have, however, made progress with cutting out the components for the many frames since my last post.
I've devoted a bit of time designing and fabricating parts for a rope walk which is close to completion, as much for the mental stimulation as any other reason, while I recover strength and fitness. I'll post details on an appropriate topic thread once I've finished and trialed it, assuming it works! 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

I guess it's goodnight on this one. There may still be a few tweaks but I'm calling it done. Trajta was a good build. It started out a little rocky, but that was mostly just where my head was at the time. With some renewed focus and help from Zoran and Don I was able to pick up and complete the build. It's interesting how the various kit designers put together the documentation for a project. Manual and plans - sounds easy enough. Everyone has their way of trying to get the idea across. I'm sure we each have a few favorite kit makers and maybe one or two never agains.
 
I think Marisstella is working hard on improving the weak points in their product. I know Don has had a hand in revising some of the documentation. For the most part Trajta was well thought out and well executed. And it's not too often you can get feedback from the designer. I have no problem recommending the product to others.
 
So what's next? In addition to the RC boats in progress I am leaning towards a square rigger again. Got a number of them on the shelf so it won't be an easy decision.
 
Well here she is folks:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the cockpit instruments are now installed. I took the precaution of laying in the cables before putting the seat in and am glad of it. I don't think I could have threaded them through some of the tiny holes afterwards.
 
Next step is to install all the cross brace tensioning cables and there are quite a few!!
 
 

Thank you @Jack12477, @BANYAN, @oneslim, @druxey, @KeithAug, @GrantGoodale, @mtaylor, @Omega1234, and @*Hans* for your reactions.
Glad that you are liking the crane (one of my first toys as a child.  A pulley-cable system ).
______________________________________________________
Used black cable and aluminium foil for the hydraulics.
 

 

 

 
Used pin heads for mounting bolts.

Shadow and white spots added

Stern Fascia
 
Thanks for the nice comments.
Later than expected an update,Rich.
 
I finished the work on the Stern Fascia. Lots of details, especially the trophy of arms.
 
Let's start at the beginning: fitting the window frames.
I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton: "Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows."

Therefore I cut out the rabbets at the back of the sheet (the non-exposed side):





The result:





Global painting:



And painting the loose ornaments



and gluing them:



Next: painting of the Trophy of Arms : roughly the black and white:



and more detailing



and gluing:



The black rectangles between the window frames are cut from styrene strips and painted black. This gives well defined edges.

I decided to copy the HMS Victory as good as possible, so I included the striped black/yellow pattern on the sides of the stern fascia



I used 0,5mm styrene strips, and painted their sides in the right colour:



to get this effect:



The end result: 







About some details: some edges above and below the baluster patterns have been thickened with quarter round strips. This gave the whole thing a bit more body.
Additionally I included 4 eyelet below the baluster patterns. You see them on the present HMS Vistory.

Next project: the quarter galleries

Superb work Mike. Love the detail on the sails. I'm really enjoying following your progress - thank you for sharing it. Must say I'm very impressed by the quality of Maris Stella kits as well.
Keep up the good work.
 
Graham

Reef nettles are done. Per the picture from Zoran, I added the reef patches. Logically, it seemed like these should be there.  I did make the mistake of trying to cut the first few diamond shaped - I thought they would fit in the diagonal seem better. NOT. Shoulda' been squares rotated 45 degrees. I tried to switch, with varying success. For some reason I just couldn't cut good squares. Also per the pix, I stitched the nettles down right at the patch. They were seized near the end and the last little bit was twisted open - the strands making a crows foot. Now we can tie that sail up to the yard of needed.
 
Speaking of yard, that's next.
 

 

 

 

 

 

I've usually used Elmer's or even CA for gluing sail material. This time I used fabric glue. Makes sense I guess. We'll have to see how it holds up. It seems pretty tough. I glued the patches with it and it was rather difficult trying to push a needle thru the patch. I was also hoping  to trim up the diamond patches in place, but the patch edges didn't want to lift up.
 
I believe this build is getting close to finished. The sail & yard, another couple pieces of running rig, and the oars are what's left.
 
 

I've gone a fair way into building the framework. The laser-cut parts are EXCELLENT, they are so precise that I need to peel off the top layer of card to allow the tabs to fit into the slots :

 
Here are the four sections. I've also discovered that I won't need to make any extra bracing between the bulkheads - they are supplied in the kit . I haven't fitted any of them yet, I will need to fit the sections together first :



 
So far the design has been brilliant .
 
  Danny

Hi Mates,
 
Well she is done. Last pics for this log, a big thanks, especially to those of you who have followed along – for such a long time!! adding your kind and encouraging words, and all of your important advice. So many of your compliments have also helped me become a better builder – again thanks. Big thanks for so many of your Like clicks and visits as well.
 
Captain Steve: Up next, after much hand wringing –it was between the Billing Oseberg (1/25th) 
As much as I became obsesses with Vikings after watching all seasons of The Vikings this kit is just too big (my fault for not paying attention to its size during the purchase) Yes there are smaller size kits – could be…..
 
So having learned so much with Vasa, I will go with the OcCre Santisima Trinidad cross section. I intend to bash the heck out of it, including leaving some of the lower and upper gun deck planking bare, as well as poss. at the weather deck as well – showing the, to be added,  under framings. And trying my first at coppering the hull. 
 
Jörgen regarding the woods – those that came with the kit, along with wood from Corel’s Mirage. Then from Midwest products; some walnut, mahogany, Cherry, and beech. I did not use any finish on this build, nor do I intend to.
 
Again Mates THANKS SO MUCH for your kind words.
 
Regards,
 
 
 

Most are W/C some are Acrylic
jim
latest
Buttermere painting finished not any particular Tanker just representative of the many in use at the time.
Jim

Hi Mates,
Well the flags came out as I had hoped. Using starch, as opposed to watered down glue has some advantages (for me in any case)
1) It dries flags into shape as soon as the starch dries within seconds (using a blow dryer-low heat low, speed – adjusting the distance)
Your fingers need to be part of the shaping as well when using the dryer – yup they can get a bit hot.
 
2) If the “shape” is unacceptable, you can always re-soak the area and reshape ( I had to do this for the large stern flag to get the final shape I wanted)
That said – Who knows it the shapes will hold over time?
 
Next post should be shots of the completed build along with its case.
 
Oh PS: that stern flag is incorrect but I sure like the looks of it - haha
 
Regards,
 

Anstruther harbour late 19th/early 20th century. Fifie and Zulu sailing Luggers awaiting the tide.
About 15" X 9"

Thanks very much Popeye, Bernie (welcome back ) and Yves. Much appreciated. Yves, I'll take a pic of me holding Bismarck a bit later.
 
Construction of the Main Guns begins with the usual inadequate kit-supplied framing, to which I've added a lot of extra card :


 
One of the turrets skinned. I've modified these to swivel as well :

 
There are 12 vents of varying widths that fit to the two higher turret bases. Here are a few pics of there construction :




 
The vents fitted to one of the bases :

 
One of the turrets with the gun barrels fitted :

 
I've made "boots" in a similar fashion to the ones I made for the 150mm guns :


 
Turret "Caesar" temporarily sitting in position on the deck. I've also painted the boots :

 
  Danny

After the deck and stanchions are set, the topgallant rail is the next and this model is starting to look as a Stilac… The frame for the main hatch is on its place as well …

Things are winding down on the hull. Other than the oars I believe all the pieces are in. Tomorrow I dust off the lathe and see how many of those nice square walnut sticks I can mess up. On the odd chance that I get on a roll I'll have to remember to taper the mast also.
 
I'm still on the fence regarding painting the upper hull. If there was some way to try before you buy I'd be all over it. But if it turns into something I really don't like, I'm hosed.
 
Here she is:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you to everyone who have commenting.  Here is an other, hot off the pad.
The Sloop HMS Amethyst passing HMS Belfast the Flagship of the Far East Fleet as she enters Hong Kong. Amethyst had just escaped after being held by the Chinese in the Yangtze River. Google 'Yangtze Incident' for more information.

Thank you again Pat and John .
 
The 150mm guns are fitted to the deck :



 
  Danny

I managed a couple of hours today of happy modelling & made the whisker stay turnbuckle connections. And this time I thought I'd photograph how I made them, I doubt the technique is original but it is interesting to see how others do things & I've been a bit reluctant considering the refined techniques that others here are masters of - but it's time to be "out & proud" as they say....no more being sheepish about using mediaeval technology.
 
The whisker stay chainplates were already made, & I had purchased some very nice - & well scaled - turnbuckles. The turnbuckles had previously had one end converted from an eyelet to a T end, to allow this junction. The point of the junction is to have the turnbuckle directly connected to the chainplate, similar to an actual rigging detail.
 
The basic equipment - rod, think flat bar & a thicker flat bar for use as a spacer:

 
Bend the thin flat bar, the rod is what I used for the T end of the turnbuckle so it's the correct diameter for the inside of the U:

 
Drill the U bend in the flat bar, the turnbuckle shaft will go through here:

 
Clean up the inside of the U (the sanding block is on 1.5mm styrene, with a rounded edge):

 
Clamp the spacer & squeeze the U closed a bit more, the thickness of the spacer matches the width of the chain plate eyelet:

 
Drill through both:

 
Make a rivet, thicken the end with some gentle taps:

 
Roughly assembled:

 
Cleaned up & fully assembled:

 
15 seconds in the darkening solution, then installed on the hull by glueing the chainplate rivets into holes in the hull:

 
 

Bismarck has six 150mm Guns as the 2nd Battery. Construction of these was fairly easy, but I had to add extra card to the few laser-cut pieces in the kit. I modified the bases to enable them to be swivelled :





 The finished turrets. The bases still need to be glued to them :


 
I've primed the barrels, but I need to get another can of dark grey spray paint to topcoat them :

 
  Danny

Hey everyone. I'm still finishing the hull details and the few deck toys that go with this build. Everything is looking good - no real problems. I did have that question on mast rake angle, turns out there isn't any for Trajta. Straight up & down. I keep thinking back to that mast foot that I glued in the wrong place. What a nightmare that would have been if I had not caught it. I've also painted the hull. Above the paint line the rest of the hull is wiped down with the linseed mixture and stained. Most everything on the deck is just the linseed. I'm still liking that on the walnut.
 
Here's a few shots:
 

 

 

 
The bitts

 
Hatch covers - yes I know one looks crooked. Per the plans!
Door to the forward cargo hold - I glued this one shut

 
Door to the aft cargo hold - I glued the door off to the side so you can see in.

 
The deck

 
I have not put varnish on anything yet although you would never know it looking at the deck.
 

Thank you Popeye, John and Reg.
 
I've finished the rigging and fitted the planes and cranes. I've shown one attached to the crane and the other preparing for takeoff :





 
  Danny

So, the freeboard (the planking above the deck) is to be installed next. The tops of the bulkheads, the parts of the bulkheads that had the task to form the freeboard while planking, need to be cut off, removed… The inner walls of the freeboard are to be grind and polished next, the glue remains have to be removed completely… At this model the base for the deck have to be installed before placing the deck planks. There is a curvature of the deck that has to be followed when sanding the top edges of the bulkheads and the curvature is shown into the drawings (this cannot be seen here at the log)… The deck base is made of several wood pieces placed between the bulkheads’ tops. Pieces of some soft plywood are ideal for this purpose…