Charter33

Well spotted Ron!

The four timberheads, parts no.179, have now been cut out of 3 mm walnut sheet 1, cleaned up and painted ready for installation tomorrow together with the recently blackened channel brackets....
Cheers,
Graham

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

Well spotted Ron!

The four timberheads, parts no.179, have now been cut out of 3 mm walnut sheet 1, cleaned up and painted ready for installation tomorrow together with the recently blackened channel brackets....
Cheers,
Graham

Thanks for following my contributions and giving them a 'thumbs up'.....
Robert, it is a great motivation seeing the inspirational work of the master craftsmen on this site whose build logs have helped me through many of the challenges that have arisen. It certainly pushes me to try and improve my own skills.
It is really important to study the plans Ron, those brackets aren't the only instance where the written instructions don't give the whole story. It just happens that it was the case with the next task I tackled. On the same plan sheet (5) there are details of the decorations on the outside of the bulwarks. I cannot see any reference to how these are constructed in the manual. The parts manual shows parts 412 and 413 listing them as Moulding 90 degree and Moulding termination foot respectively. They are on the second sheet of 1.5 mm walnut. There is no information on what to use to use with them. I assume it should be 1.5 x 1.5 walnut strip.
When I added the inner bulwark decorations I used copper wire scavenged from a bit of twin and earth electrical cable (post #84), and I decided to go the same way here, discarding the wood for metal.
This took me back to those lockdown days when I made the inner decorations. Travelling to a modelshop for materials at that time was impossible so a bit of improvisation was called for.
First stage was to file the 1.7 mm dia. copper wire to profile, three flat sides and one, the outward facing surface, left curved. The final thickness is 1 mm.

Next step, after annealing, was flaring and tapering the ends in preparation for making the termination feet

followed by shaping

Pieces were then cut, bent and soft soldered as required. After cleaning up these were glued in place.
 

All this work needs to be painted next. Currently awaiting a delivery of Dull Black and Yellow Ochre from Cornwall Model Boats as my stock, purchased along with the kit many years ago, is showing its age....
In the meantime I'll get those support brackets cut from the PE frames and prepared for fitting.
Cheers,
Graham.
 

Thanks for following my contributions and giving them a 'thumbs up'.....
Robert, it is a great motivation seeing the inspirational work of the master craftsmen on this site whose build logs have helped me through many of the challenges that have arisen. It certainly pushes me to try and improve my own skills.
It is really important to study the plans Ron, those brackets aren't the only instance where the written instructions don't give the whole story. It just happens that it was the case with the next task I tackled. On the same plan sheet (5) there are details of the decorations on the outside of the bulwarks. I cannot see any reference to how these are constructed in the manual. The parts manual shows parts 412 and 413 listing them as Moulding 90 degree and Moulding termination foot respectively. They are on the second sheet of 1.5 mm walnut. There is no information on what to use to use with them. I assume it should be 1.5 x 1.5 walnut strip.
When I added the inner bulwark decorations I used copper wire scavenged from a bit of twin and earth electrical cable (post #84), and I decided to go the same way here, discarding the wood for metal.
This took me back to those lockdown days when I made the inner decorations. Travelling to a modelshop for materials at that time was impossible so a bit of improvisation was called for.
First stage was to file the 1.7 mm dia. copper wire to profile, three flat sides and one, the outward facing surface, left curved. The final thickness is 1 mm.

Next step, after annealing, was flaring and tapering the ends in preparation for making the termination feet

followed by shaping

Pieces were then cut, bent and soft soldered as required. After cleaning up these were glued in place.
 

All this work needs to be painted next. Currently awaiting a delivery of Dull Black and Yellow Ochre from Cornwall Model Boats as my stock, purchased along with the kit many years ago, is showing its age....
In the meantime I'll get those support brackets cut from the PE frames and prepared for fitting.
Cheers,
Graham.
 

Great job. I have found things on the plans not in the instructions as well. Maybe at the end it will be where are these left over parts supposed to go. Ron. 

Thanks for following my contributions and giving them a 'thumbs up'.....
Robert, it is a great motivation seeing the inspirational work of the master craftsmen on this site whose build logs have helped me through many of the challenges that have arisen. It certainly pushes me to try and improve my own skills.
It is really important to study the plans Ron, those brackets aren't the only instance where the written instructions don't give the whole story. It just happens that it was the case with the next task I tackled. On the same plan sheet (5) there are details of the decorations on the outside of the bulwarks. I cannot see any reference to how these are constructed in the manual. The parts manual shows parts 412 and 413 listing them as Moulding 90 degree and Moulding termination foot respectively. They are on the second sheet of 1.5 mm walnut. There is no information on what to use to use with them. I assume it should be 1.5 x 1.5 walnut strip.
When I added the inner bulwark decorations I used copper wire scavenged from a bit of twin and earth electrical cable (post #84), and I decided to go the same way here, discarding the wood for metal.
This took me back to those lockdown days when I made the inner decorations. Travelling to a modelshop for materials at that time was impossible so a bit of improvisation was called for.
First stage was to file the 1.7 mm dia. copper wire to profile, three flat sides and one, the outward facing surface, left curved. The final thickness is 1 mm.

Next step, after annealing, was flaring and tapering the ends in preparation for making the termination feet

followed by shaping

Pieces were then cut, bent and soft soldered as required. After cleaning up these were glued in place.
 

All this work needs to be painted next. Currently awaiting a delivery of Dull Black and Yellow Ochre from Cornwall Model Boats as my stock, purchased along with the kit many years ago, is showing its age....
In the meantime I'll get those support brackets cut from the PE frames and prepared for fitting.
Cheers,
Graham.
 

Thanks for following my contributions and giving them a 'thumbs up'.....
Robert, it is a great motivation seeing the inspirational work of the master craftsmen on this site whose build logs have helped me through many of the challenges that have arisen. It certainly pushes me to try and improve my own skills.
It is really important to study the plans Ron, those brackets aren't the only instance where the written instructions don't give the whole story. It just happens that it was the case with the next task I tackled. On the same plan sheet (5) there are details of the decorations on the outside of the bulwarks. I cannot see any reference to how these are constructed in the manual. The parts manual shows parts 412 and 413 listing them as Moulding 90 degree and Moulding termination foot respectively. They are on the second sheet of 1.5 mm walnut. There is no information on what to use to use with them. I assume it should be 1.5 x 1.5 walnut strip.
When I added the inner bulwark decorations I used copper wire scavenged from a bit of twin and earth electrical cable (post #84), and I decided to go the same way here, discarding the wood for metal.
This took me back to those lockdown days when I made the inner decorations. Travelling to a modelshop for materials at that time was impossible so a bit of improvisation was called for.
First stage was to file the 1.7 mm dia. copper wire to profile, three flat sides and one, the outward facing surface, left curved. The final thickness is 1 mm.

Next step, after annealing, was flaring and tapering the ends in preparation for making the termination feet

followed by shaping

Pieces were then cut, bent and soft soldered as required. After cleaning up these were glued in place.
 

All this work needs to be painted next. Currently awaiting a delivery of Dull Black and Yellow Ochre from Cornwall Model Boats as my stock, purchased along with the kit many years ago, is showing its age....
In the meantime I'll get those support brackets cut from the PE frames and prepared for fitting.
Cheers,
Graham.
 

A bit more done on the stern fascia.

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

Hi Graham, as always you come up with brilliant ideas how to tackle certain jobs. Those decorative scrolls are beautiful. I had also made some changes to the scrolls on my model,  but your idea is impressive.  Keep up you good work.
 
Robert

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

Well, the build is done. Weathering to do later in the week. I'm thinking quite light weathering, some pin wash and a bit of chipping. Not too much.
 
 

Thank you all for the comments.
 
Bruce,
As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible.  Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them.  My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply.  A thing I wish I would have done is have  added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring.  All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin.
 
Robert

Tried my hand at building out the inside of the entrances. I just cut a few pieces of wood and covered them with deck scraps.
 
I also had some 1mm or so brass wire from my previous model and created some rings, which I blackened. I had never used that stuff before and it was pretty easy and looks pretty good. 
 

 
Like all model pics, close up shots do more harm than good sometimes!

 
But, looking through the doorway is pretty cool. It will be dark once everything is buttoned up, but I'll know!

 
 
Also continuing work on 2nd planking. I went down about 10 strakes and laid a plank and then started going back up. The strakes lay a lot nicer on the hull and I am happy with them.

Hi David,
Did you use an on-line photo hosting site for your pictures? I used to, it was free and allowed me to crop, rotate and manipulate the data size of images before uploading them into my build log. When they changed their conditions of use and required a subscription payment I stopped using them, and could no longer access the pictures I had saved with them. There were then problems with photos I'd previously added to my build log through that provider. Just a thought......
Cheers,
Graham

Coming along nicely Chris.
Background research and hunting down that extra detail to enhance a model kit is a very satisfying and rewarding aspect of any field of modelling, especially when you are committing so much time and effort to a project like this one. I regularly refer to my copies of Longbridge and McKay, but wasn't aware of Alan McGowan's book. I am now. Just found a copy - I'll have it by the weekend......thanks for bringing it to my attention! 👍😉
Cheers,
Graham

At last the weather has changed and the forcast is for a several consecutive dry days. I can finally remove the tarpaulin and polythene sheets, which have often appeared more like sagging water balloons recently, and work on making the roof waterproof.
I reversed my original plan and worked on the more straightforward sections first before attempting the more challenging one adjacent to the garage wall.
A bit of advanced planning to find the optimum way to cut the six 8' x 4' 18mm to minimize waste resulted in less than half a square metre of ofcuts.

Not pretty but it does the job. Now for the fun part....

Relying heavily on the three 'Ls', leverage, lateral thinking and luck, the the final panel was constructed on the roof and dropped into place. I took steps to ensure the whole assembly couldn't fall down the narrow gap between garage and workshop wall. At about 16' long and a couple of feet wide it was quite weighty! After marking the end profiles it was pulled back out and trimmed ready for covering.

First a layer of breathable membrane, then one of bitumen felt underlay. Next the detail trim was tacked into place followed by one course of bitumen shingles. I could have added a second but found that they would be accessible for nailing when the section was in place so dropped the idea as the already weighty panel was even heavier now.

With much care and trepidation the section was eased across to its balance point and then nudged over while being supported by a loop of rope. The plan worked! Next I had the Admiral maning a 4' length of 2" x 4" on the inside to lever the panel up to fine tune the fit while I screwed it to the top of the roof frames. Membrane and underlay sheets that had been left unattached were now fixed down. 
Job done. The plan for tomorrow is to complete these two layers across the whole roof making it watertight. The shingles won't be added until the six roof lights are in place. These will be the next challenge 😉
Cheers,
Graham.

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

Thank you for your comments Egilman and Javlin, and for all those 'likes'...
I must admit that I'm pleased with the way the roof framing came out. I'm planning to have as much of the 'ribs' as visible as the insulation and ceiling boarding permit.
The next challenge will be the lower section of the roof on the left hand side. As can be seen in the last photo of my previous post, it's very close to my neighbor's garage wall making it difficult to add the covering to the ply once in postion. My current plan is to cut the ply for this section to size, partially cover it with vapour barrier, felt underlay and the first couple of rows of bitumen shingles, and then slide it down into position. I'll get this section sorted first and then, hopefully, the rest of the roof should be straight forward. Should be fun...😉

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

This picture shows my first attempt at the decorative scrolls, refered to as moulding swirls in the manual, that enhance the hull decorations.
The method that the kit provides is a bit lacking and many builders have come up with alternative improvements. 

My plan was to try and replicate the way these scrolls flow from the straight sections of brass profile. This first attempt is very rough but in terms of developing the technique and proving the concept it taught me alot.
The first step was to use a piercing saw fitted with a 0/4 blade to cut 20 mm up the brass strip following the two thinest sections

The second cut then turned out to remove the bottom piece
 
The two remaining pieces were carefully spread apart wide enough to allow a needle file to access the inner sufaces to smooth them off.

8 mm was then cut off the centre section and the outer sides filed to tapered points

One lesson learned from the test piece was not to anneal the strip until all the cutting and filing was completed.
Once these two 'fingers' were annealled
round nosed pliers were used to roll the centre of the scroll

The top section was then bent around the centre

The excess length was cut off and this piece pushed into place

These pictures shows the scrolls in place and includes the larger scroll at the stern. This one was made the same way, the only difference being those two saw cuts which were made 25 mm long, and the tightness of the scrolls.


Having the channels still removable at this stage made adding these brass strips more manageable, I certainly wouldn't want to have had to work around them! 
A word of warning relating to the channels. Looking at plan sheet 5 there are vertical lines shown under the three main sections which turned out to be PE support brackets (Part 626). I've looked through the manual but cannot see any written reference to them. Glad I spotted this now before adding the chainplate assemblies.
Just a few more sections of brass profile to add to this side, then I can tackle the port side of the hull.
Cheers,
Graham
 
 

Still plugging along. I have the same number of planks on each side. I think that the next run are going to require 2 to 1 or 1 to 2 plank runs. I feel like I am close to the water line in the build so that anything I do to complete the 2nd planking after will be covered by the copper plates.
 
My wife saw my progress tonight and doesn't want me to cover it with copper. I do love the great builds that are all natural. There is a perfect beauty to them. But I just can't wait to take a chance with the copper!!!! Sorry babe....
 
On a double side note, I received the 3rd and last book in my library of reference material today. I have McGowan's HMS Victory 'Her Construction, Career and Restoration', Longridge's 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' and McKay's '100 Gun Ship Victory'. All three are just the best! I received McGowan's today and I can't stop smiling!!!! 
 
Also...I wanted to add a bit of extra detail to the interior walls of the 2 entrances. I have seen a few builds where the builders have added rings and painted the wall. I spent the last few days searching 'HMS Victory entrance pics' to no avail. I have dozens of pics looing INTO the ship, but nothing looking from the middle deck looking out.
 
Then!!!!....as I was working on my laptop, I had the new Napoleon movie playing on the TV for background. I had already watched it at the movies, when I looked up and saw the HMS Victory. I know the movie sub titles said it was the HMS Bellerophon, but it was her! And then there it was! A shot of an English officer walking INTO the ship! I know it will be barely visible, but hey, how much of the middle deck can you see once the rest are in place?
 
Yes, I still have some cutting to do. It is so hard!!!!

 
I was able to even up the strakes with a little tapering and stealing.

 
I know it looks sloppy, but it isn't that bad in my shop!

 

 
 

 
Look!!!! So maybe a little knee from the ceiling, a few rings and some wall planking! That and a little detail work on the side panels in the entrance way.
Might look cool.
 
Also thought about adding the bits that would be mid deck running parallel to the mast as it runs upward....

 
I think as a new modeler, these 3 are all you need to really aid you in your build.

My granddaughter brought me this gift tonight.