Adrieke

planking is well on its way and I am enjoying it a lot


 
I am tapering the planks at the bow so they all have a smooth flow

 
pre-bending one plank while glueing another

thanks Popeye and Sjors
 
yes lots of sanding and filler needed but no painting yet . there will be a second layer of planking with 7x0.6 strips
once I got the hull nice and smooth like it should be I intend to do the second planking without the need of filler and sanding should be limited to getting it nice and smooth for the paint
 
I have now finished the first layer of planks . hare a few pictures :

 
unfortunately I will be away the rest off the year so I will be putting away all tools and covering up the hull till I am back
 
not sure if I will have the opportunity to go online , so if not I wish you all happy holidays and see you in the new year
 
 

fantastic pictures

thanks Popeye and Sjors
 
yes lots of sanding and filler needed but no painting yet . there will be a second layer of planking with 7x0.6 strips
once I got the hull nice and smooth like it should be I intend to do the second planking without the need of filler and sanding should be limited to getting it nice and smooth for the paint
 
I have now finished the first layer of planks . hare a few pictures :

 
unfortunately I will be away the rest off the year so I will be putting away all tools and covering up the hull till I am back
 
not sure if I will have the opportunity to go online , so if not I wish you all happy holidays and see you in the new year
 
 

thanks Popeye and Sjors
 
yes lots of sanding and filler needed but no painting yet . there will be a second layer of planking with 7x0.6 strips
once I got the hull nice and smooth like it should be I intend to do the second planking without the need of filler and sanding should be limited to getting it nice and smooth for the paint
 
I have now finished the first layer of planks . hare a few pictures :

 
unfortunately I will be away the rest off the year so I will be putting away all tools and covering up the hull till I am back
 
not sure if I will have the opportunity to go online , so if not I wish you all happy holidays and see you in the new year
 
 

thanks Popeye and Sjors
 
yes lots of sanding and filler needed but no painting yet . there will be a second layer of planking with 7x0.6 strips
once I got the hull nice and smooth like it should be I intend to do the second planking without the need of filler and sanding should be limited to getting it nice and smooth for the paint
 
I have now finished the first layer of planks . hare a few pictures :

 
unfortunately I will be away the rest off the year so I will be putting away all tools and covering up the hull till I am back
 
not sure if I will have the opportunity to go online , so if not I wish you all happy holidays and see you in the new year
 
 

thanks Popeye and Sjors
 
yes lots of sanding and filler needed but no painting yet . there will be a second layer of planking with 7x0.6 strips
once I got the hull nice and smooth like it should be I intend to do the second planking without the need of filler and sanding should be limited to getting it nice and smooth for the paint
 
I have now finished the first layer of planks . hare a few pictures :

 
unfortunately I will be away the rest off the year so I will be putting away all tools and covering up the hull till I am back
 
not sure if I will have the opportunity to go online , so if not I wish you all happy holidays and see you in the new year
 
 

thanks Mick and don't worry we all have these days where you don't feel like doing much . they l pass
 
thanks Mobsie
 
thanks Dragzz
 
and for Sjors here some pictures
 
look from the stern . only 3 planks to go . you can see the 2 planks curved around with the bottom one sticking out a fiar bit. this is where I tuck the curved planks underneath

 
bottom bit al ldone Sjors . from this view she actually looks all finished

 
last plank on this side all shaped and waiting to dry. due to the extra plank and that the plank is wedged in I don't need anything to hold it down. I didn't push it all in in case I couldnt get it out  without breaking for the final glueing

Topmast blocks added. The jeer blocks slung under the shrouds required me to make eyelets and sling them. It looks really busy (it is) and because of the close ups looks somewhat out of scale, but by the time the topgallant shrouds are added and eventually the yards, the tension of the blocks should look correct. 

Boris , Piet
 
I found most of thos photos also when I searched for pics for my K-KVIII. I think Boris is right and the mount in the drawings allows the gun to turn vertical and then sink into its bun. I cannot say if the O19 had the same 40 mm as the K-XVIII.
 
As for the deckgun, two of them are in front of the Navy museum in Den Helder, I believe these guns are from O21 and O24, but are similar or the same as the guns on the older subs.
 
Freek
 

 

 

 

Thank you all for visiting my dockyard and your "like" votes, it's most appreciated.
 
Well, today was two steps forward and one back.  This in itself was not a bad thing but I found necessary.
 
I cemented the styrene wall plates to the aft and forward parts of the command center (inside the lower part of the con) and started with the framing for the forward and aft conning tower and AA gun decks.
 
So now I was going to find out how long the AA lifting pistons have to be and for that I needed the guns.  I copied them from the drawings I have of the O21, which are the same type, and cut them out of some scrap 1 mm ply.  (See pic below).
Well, I right away saw that my previously build styrene tubes are too short on the inside due to the extra reinforcing ring I cemented on the bottom part.  I could make the guns a little shorter to make them fit - - - who would know - - - right?  Hmmmmm, no - no - Piet - - - that'll be an absolute no-no!  
So - - - okay, I had to make two new styrene tubes and only cement reinforcing bands on them on the outside.  Well, they are now shaped and taped on a brass tube of the right size.  Tomorrow we'll cement the reinforcing bands to them so they'll remain round.
 
The pedestal for the AA guns will most likely be made from a combination of wood and metal, brass.  The gun barrels also from brass tubes and wood.  I hope all this will work out and fit inside the tubes.  At least I have the space now for them to fully retract inside.
 
Doesn't look like a lot of progress but even though no one can see my second attempt of making styrene tubes I just could not use them with a clear conscience - - - my father is still looking over my shoulder  so the third attempt should be acceptable to the quality control inspector    
I still need to go on the Internet to find some good illustrations of these 40 mm Bofors so I can at least make an attempt to make them look as close as I can make them.  The deck gun will be a hole other issue and a worry / concern for later 
 

Here are the two Bofors hinged to a flat pedestal.  As you see it here there is plenty of space for this assembly to fit inside my tubes.  It's now a matter how far up I can go without the piston popping out of it's cylinder tube.  Measure three or four times then cut once 
 
Cheers,

here some more of the standing rigging.
 
 

thanks Mick and don't worry we all have these days where you don't feel like doing much . they l pass
 
thanks Mobsie
 
thanks Dragzz
 
and for Sjors here some pictures
 
look from the stern . only 3 planks to go . you can see the 2 planks curved around with the bottom one sticking out a fiar bit. this is where I tuck the curved planks underneath

 
bottom bit al ldone Sjors . from this view she actually looks all finished

 
last plank on this side all shaped and waiting to dry. due to the extra plank and that the plank is wedged in I don't need anything to hold it down. I didn't push it all in in case I couldnt get it out  without breaking for the final glueing

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks every body for your very kind comments and remarks and all those who pressed the like button, it's very much appreciated.
 
I have a little update to show so will be posting some pics in a moment.
 
What have I done so far, Mizzen mast shrouds were served and fitted, Catherpins made up and fitted, Mizzen main stay served and fitted, I used Arthurs method of making the mouse and it works fine, Mizzen Futtock shrouds made up and fitted and finally Ratlines completed on the Port side. 
 
The Catherpins look a little thick and I guess they are, I used 0.25 brass wire, served with 0.25 thread, attached it to the Futtock staves then fitted them to the shrouds, this made the process of fitting the Catherpins so much easier, I tend to look for as much as possible to do off the ship, that way there is less chance of doing damage which I'm prone to do.
 
I'm a little disappointed with the shroud servings, they are not as level as I would have liked above the futtock staves, the only saving grace is that it is a bit crowded in that area and difficult to see clearly.
 
The mouse was made using Arthurs method, anybody wanting to know what that is please look at HMS Vanguard by AEW, page 19 post 280, it really is a good method and so simple to do. I experienced the problems with serving in that the thread kept sliding down the mouse, this was cured by a drop of PVA.
 
The result of all this was that the Mizzen mast is now in it's correct position, tight and vertical with the correct backward angle of 2 degrees. I was a bit worried that the mast would lean over to port as was happening before fitting the ropes.
 
Pictures, not that many and not the best quality but you will get the idea of where I am. ( must change my camera ).
 
Portside deadeyes

 
Mizzen stay deadeyes

 
Mizzen mouse

 
Mizzen tops with the jungle of ropes

 
Beneath the mizzen tops showing the futtock shrouds and ratlines

 
Catherpins

 
Starboard deadeyes from the stern

 
Starboard deadeyes again

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date with where I am. 
 
Your comments will be well received regarding the thickness of the Catherpins, I wont be changing what's done but will make alterations to the Main and Fore masts if you think they are too thick.
 
Stay Safe and Warm
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 

I will take some tomorrow especially for you Sjors
 
I am actually only 3 planks away from finishing the first layer
initially I thought I was going to have lots of difficulty but after a bit more fairing of the stern bulkheads all went well
and the extra plank I bended around the stern made it easy to pre bend the planks as I could use it to hold the plank in place

I will take some tomorrow especially for you Sjors
 
I am actually only 3 planks away from finishing the first layer
initially I thought I was going to have lots of difficulty but after a bit more fairing of the stern bulkheads all went well
and the extra plank I bended around the stern made it easy to pre bend the planks as I could use it to hold the plank in place

I will take some tomorrow especially for you Sjors
 
I am actually only 3 planks away from finishing the first layer
initially I thought I was going to have lots of difficulty but after a bit more fairing of the stern bulkheads all went well
and the extra plank I bended around the stern made it easy to pre bend the planks as I could use it to hold the plank in place

here some pictures of how far along I am
 

 
as you can see there are some gaps that will need filling but overall after only a bit of sanding the hull feels smooth apart from a few small bumps that need sanding down

this week finishing the KoM has been taking up all my time
 
but now I am back working on the planking
 
only a few more rows are left at the bottom, but the stern top is a bit of a challenge with the complex curves ( had to rip out a few planks as I was not happy with them)

Hello everyone and thank you all for visiting and thanks for your "like" votes.
 
Not done much today, had to go to an holiday office party - - - free lunch! 
 
@ Daniel, there are no silly questions my friend.  I know it was a bit confusing in describing all the "stuff" involved with the con.  The reason for these pipes or tubes is to make whatever goes into it move up and down, i.e. make them retractable as was done on the actual boat.  I'm making it a semi working model as much as I can.
Yes, the styrene tubes are for the AA guns.  They are mounted on a platform that is attached to a plate that is attached to a hydraulic cylinder that allows the gun to be lowered into the tube which is then closed from the outside before the crew goes inside through the crew hatch tube.  The AA gun tube is also rated for maximum design depth and will thus remain dry.
I have reposted one picture with letters to each tube with an explanation for each one and why.
 
@ Popeye, yes, but the only part that has a lot of "stuff" inside is the actual control center where the periscopes can be used for attack and navigation.  Oh, there is much more "stuff" inside that room but - - - .  Below that control center is the central control station.  Access to the control center above it is with a pull-down ladder.  When on the surface access to the outside of the con, called "the bathtub," is through a hatch tube.
 
@ Sailor, right you are, like I mentioned there is a lot of "stuff" in these boats.  I remember the smell of the boat when my father came home from patrol or during his inspections of the boat and or work that was being done.  No matter how often he bathed it always stayed with him.  I guess it became part of him, like I used to smell like aircraft when I was working on them.
 
@ John, thanks my friend for visiting and yes, things are getting exiting now.
 
Okay, as I said above, not much work was done today but I managed to make provisions for the 2 X 3 stringers to tie all the bulkheads and frames together and to support the gun and "bathtub" decks.  I hope to be able to cement the forward and aft half circular styrene command center walls to it.  
I am also making the frames for the forward section of the con but need to make the AA guns first to be able to determine how long I have to make the "piston rods" so they don't pop out of the "cylinders."
 
I do not have photos of the AA guns and will have to go to the internet to find them.  She had two 40 mm Bofors in pairs and one 12.7 mm gun for anti aircraft.  This was all changed during the refit in 1943 but that was after my father's time.  I'll have to search again through all my photos, also of the boats that were build and launched just before the Nazi army overran the Netherlands in May of 1940.  Even so, these pics may not be enough to give me an good idea how these guns look like.  The same goes for the deck gun.
 

Tube A is the outer casing for the snorkel exhaust pipe. That thing is on the most aft part of the con and the exhaust pipe can be raised and lowered.
Tube B is the crew hatch for access to the aft AA gun deck and is flush with the deck surface. 
Tube C is the water tight AA gun tube.  The aft gun deck ends just forward of that tube where the Periscope sliding cylinders are housed.  This tube stick out above the deck surface.
Tube D is the shroud or cylinder for the snorkel intake.  This is also a retractable pipe as the exhaust is.  When "snorkeling" all you could see are the exhaust, intake, antenna mast and periscopes.  For submerged sailing every thing was retracted as much as possible.
Tube E is for access to the bridge or "bathtub" above it.  I made this tube extra long to give it sufficient support.  In the real boat it was rather short with the watertight lid/door at it's bottom, which is in the "ceiling of the command center.  I could have made this tube short but wanted the extra support.
Tube F is the forward gun deck crew hatch tube for access to the forward AA gun.
Tube G is the forward watertight AA gun tube.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Thanks John, it would have been a LOT more difficult without the jig   .
 
All the timberheads are finished and installed. The pic below shows how much difference there was in the longitudinal angles, remember that the ones near the waist were straight :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Sjors if you want here is a link to an online countdown timer for pc http://download.cnet.com/Free-Countdown-Timer/3000-2350_4-75330413.html
 
so yuo can countdown to the day you cna start the aggy

Francis Pritt has taken another couple of small steps forward.  The basic beam for the stern framing has now been attached with its doublers across the rudder trunking and the first two after frames are ready for shaping.  Now she feels like she's about to become a ship!
 
I won't be in the museum again until New Years Day, but in the meantime I need to construct a building frame and get some more wood cut for the frames.
 
John
 

Sjors if you want here is a link to an online countdown timer for pc http://download.cnet.com/Free-Countdown-Timer/3000-2350_4-75330413.html
 
so yuo can countdown to the day you cna start the aggy

First of all, thanks to everyone who visited and your "like" votes.
 
First thing this morning was finishing the *&%$*@ styrene tubes.  I added a few more bands around them on the outside.  After e remake of one I think they'll work for me. They are not the greatest things I have made so far but like I said, they are completely hidden anyhow.At this stage in the game I'm not going to wrap myself around the axle for something that'll never be seen.  They are round and sturdy.
 
I made a few bulkheads for the center and aft parts of the con.  I also cut some 2 X 3 mm planks for the top bracing and 3 X 3 mm beams for the forward framing.  
 
I cemented the two wooden tubes in place for the snorkel exhaust and intake pipes and two of the aft frames.  The sides of the 3 aft frames need to be faired yet because the aft end of the con runs into a point and is also tapered to the top.  The rest of the con sides are perpendicular to the deck.  I'll fair the aft end when they are braced at the top to give them rigidity.
 
Before I can cement the styrene tubes into place I need to make the gun platforms, which means that I most likely have to make the gun pedestal already.  Reason is that I need to know how far down they need to go to determine how long the "cylinder" tube has to be so that the "piston" rod won't pop out.  This in turn will depend how long the gun barrels will be. Confusing - - - 
So, do I now have to make the entire gun assembly?  Hmmmm, more details - - - -      When can I put the con together?????  Mutter - - - mutter - - -grumble - - - grumble​.
 

This is a close-up of the center part of the con, called the command center (I have indicated it with red lines).  It's a heavy structure that can withstand the pressures to the design depth.  This is where the commander and a few other crew members are during the attack phase.  I am using this primarily for structural integrity of the entire con.  Nothing inside will be seen but both ends can be visible on the outside through two doors on the port side.  I'll use styrene for both ends.  No, no, no - - - no lights!
 

This is a photo of the command center during the actual construction of the O 19.  The bands you see running on the outside are to fasten the side plates to.  A pretty husky affair! 
 

This is an overall view of all the "stuff" that'll have to be installed yet.  On this pic everything is just suck into the places where they belong.  
 
 

A view from the stern end.
 
Cheers,