Elia

Some of today's effort: assembling some of the Syren Ship Model Company's internally iron stropped blocks.  
 
In the first picture you'll find, on the left, how the mini-kits arrive.  
 
In the center/top are blocks glued together using medium CA and toothpicks (per the online instructions).  
 
At the right are the sheave pin 'wire' and the incredibly fine strip stock used for the strops in the remaining bags.
 
In the center you'll see blocks snipped off the frames and also blocks which have had the sprue and laser burn sanded off.  I found using a no. 11 blade wasn't the best way to separate the blocks from the frame - it is easy for the sprue to snap off at part and remove a small chunk of the block. The shears shown worked quite well at separating the block without the damage to the block.
 
The second picture is a close up of the blocks.
 
I tried inserting the fine strip stock into the laser cut slots - they worked perfectly on the couple I tried.
 
I will have to wait a short while before I can tumble them to smooth the edges.
 
Elia

While I putter along with things here is an in-process picture of the masts and spars and their associated ironwork.  I still have some to do on the topmasts.  And there are a few fittings which I'll fret saw and file from thicker brass sheet.  I'll solder the soft or load bearing joints shortly.
 
Elia

So .... here are some initial 'casting my dories' images (taken with my cell phone).
 
The first two are my dory, puttied, sanded, and primed.
 
The next is of my mold box constructed of Lego blocks.
 
Following that is my mold box with clay, the blank, and vented tubes placed.
 
I purchased a starter kit from MicroMark - showing the mold two part materials.
 
Then there is slowly mixing up the silicone mold batter.
 
And lastly the mold filled.  
 
I have taken the blank out out of the mold and the first half looks pretty good - though I don't have a picture of it here...
 
Elia

Some of today's effort: assembling some of the Syren Ship Model Company's internally iron stropped blocks.  
 
In the first picture you'll find, on the left, how the mini-kits arrive.  
 
In the center/top are blocks glued together using medium CA and toothpicks (per the online instructions).  
 
At the right are the sheave pin 'wire' and the incredibly fine strip stock used for the strops in the remaining bags.
 
In the center you'll see blocks snipped off the frames and also blocks which have had the sprue and laser burn sanded off.  I found using a no. 11 blade wasn't the best way to separate the blocks from the frame - it is easy for the sprue to snap off at part and remove a small chunk of the block. The shears shown worked quite well at separating the block without the damage to the block.
 
The second picture is a close up of the blocks.
 
I tried inserting the fine strip stock into the laser cut slots - they worked perfectly on the couple I tried.
 
I will have to wait a short while before I can tumble them to smooth the edges.
 
Elia

While I putter along with things here is an in-process picture of the masts and spars and their associated ironwork.  I still have some to do on the topmasts.  And there are a few fittings which I'll fret saw and file from thicker brass sheet.  I'll solder the soft or load bearing joints shortly.
 
Elia

It has been some time since my last update and with a little time off of my feet I've been able to do little things here and there on Arethusa.
 
I have begun making masts....first time in oh, about 5 years!  I'm following my method I wrote about in the downloads section some years ago.
 
Here are some photos showing the major steps.  My only process change has been to use a plane to remove material instead of the rasp/file originally shown.




 
On the hull - I touched up the anti-fouling paint and hull sides, made some little scroll art at the bow names, and applied Dullcoat over the outer hull.  It is the first time I've used Dullcoat and I am happy with the results.  The shininess of the acrylic paint is gone and hull details are more clearly visible.  One odd and funny (to me!) aspect of the photos - you may see what looks like scupper run-off 'weathering'.  It isn't.  What you are seeing are reflections from clear, highly glossily packing tape I used to seal the 'work stand' box. 



 
On the deck I finished painting the checker boards.  I've deviated from my 'pristine' modeling approach by applying a semi-transparent paint layer to those details and the deck battens.  I think it gives appearance of worn painted boards and battens.  Also worked on were attached the windlass brakes and connecting links.  Luckily I hadn't glued those down yet - I found one of my soldered joints to have broken.




 
And a final photo showing the two lower masts.  The masts have been tapered and cut to length, only requiring flats and rebates where a host of spar related hardware goes.

 
Cheers,
 
Elia
 

Earlier than my steering wheel endeavor I had fabricated the cat heads and installed the chainplates. All of the deck furniture remains only temporarily placed for context.
 


 


 
Funny thing about the deadeyes - they don't want to stand upright, as in the photos. They lay over, free on their pivot pins...
 
And last, but not least, thank you to all those who've 'liked' my updates!
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

So .... here are some initial 'casting my dories' images (taken with my cell phone).
 
The first two are my dory, puttied, sanded, and primed.
 
The next is of my mold box constructed of Lego blocks.
 
Following that is my mold box with clay, the blank, and vented tubes placed.
 
I purchased a starter kit from MicroMark - showing the mold two part materials.
 
Then there is slowly mixing up the silicone mold batter.
 
And lastly the mold filled.  
 
I have taken the blank out out of the mold and the first half looks pretty good - though I don't have a picture of it here...
 
Elia

Rusty, Robert, Druxey, Mark,
 
Many thanks for popping in here and for the kind words.
 
Dick (rhcronan),
 
While I've been puttering along with my rails I took a little side excursion and snapped some pictures of (a) Eric Ronnberg Jr.'s Arethusa model photo reproductions he had provided to me, and (b )some of the sketches I had made early one in my Arethusa build.  Here are forum sized images of them.  I think they should help illustrate the stem ironwork on a knockabout...at least Arethusa.  I did the sketches based on H.I. Chapelle's book appendix of American Fishing Schooners, and much of those sketches agree with Eric Ronnberg Jr.'s model quite well.  I've included the sketches for both the standing and rugging rigging at the stem (along with the jumbo stay on a post forward of the Samson post).  I hope these help you on your Helen B. Thomas model.  If you are so interested PM me and we can arrange for my sending you higher resolution images.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Russ, Bob,
 
Thank you.  The cast windlass assembly is pretty nice.  It just takes some clean up with a file prior to finishing.  I first became acquainted with the Blue Jacket windlass on my Smuggler model and with some clean up and paint it looks pretty good.  Some of its details were a little thicker than scale, but my primary issue was that the parts weren't the right size for a schooner the size of Arethusa.  The windlass comparison photo is a good example of the size difference.  I'll admit that making the brass parts was fun, too.    
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

...more....

the saga continues...

continued...first with a size comparison to Blue Jacket Shipcrafter's Smuggler....

continued...

The build log reconstruction begins...
 
It has been a long time since I’ve started a new sailing ship build, with my sailing ship model (Oneida) taking about 4 years to complete.  Ever since building Smuggler, an 1870’s mackerel seiner from Gloucester, I’ve been smitten by 19th and 20th century American fishing schooners.  There are a number builds, both in progress and completed, that have been inspiring to me – Bluenose builds, a couple of Ben Lathams, a scratch build of Columbia, and even a few of the “yachty” Americas.  Jim Lefever, who’s impressive Benjamin Latham build was a great inspiration for me, provided me with a list of great reading references on American fishing schooners.  After receiving a number of them as gifts, and reading through them, I knew my next build would have to be another fishing schooner.  I have to admit right up front that Arethusa, an early 1900s fishing schooner and the topic of this build, was never called the “Goddess of Gloucester”.  She was a goddess in Greek mythology.  The schooner was named after one of Thomas McManus's daughters.  I just thought that 'Goddess of Gloucester' fit to her will and made for a catchy name for this log.  Arethusa, the schooner, was big, beautiful, and had a colorful history – sounds interesting to me.  Enough about my motivations and ramblings….let’s get on with the ship.     Arethusa was designed by Thomas F. McManus in 1907 and built by James and Tarr in Essex, Massachusetts, in 1909.  She was what is termed a knockabout schooner.  Unlike traditional schooners, with bowsprits (and jibbooms, and flying jibbooms), knockabout schooners had an extended bow and no bowsprit.  The extended bow essentially placed the fore topmast stay at the same position as on a traditional schooner.  With that configuration of stay location the crew wouldn’t be required to climb out on the typically poorly maintained footropes aside the bowsprit in order to perform tasks involving the sails and rigging.  This was a Thomas McManus innovation, based on his observations and discussions with fisherman and owners, and was meant to reduce sailing crew injuries and deaths.   I am using Howard I. Chapelle’s lines drawing and sail plan of Arethusa from his “American Fishing Schooners”, plate 120 and figure 30.  “American Fishing Schooners” (AFS) has a great deal of detail in it’s appendix on most of the features of late 19th century and early 20th century schooners, and it is these I will use to build the details of the model.  If anyone knows of more details about Arethusa I would be most grateful to learn of them.  I have contacted Mystic Seaport Museum about their collection but found that while Arethusa is listed in their collection they don’t have any more information than that (little) which is shown in AFS.   Following are some excerpts from “Thomas F. McManus and the American Fishing Schooners”, by W.M.P. Dunne, on Arethusa: James and Tarr “...completed her on 25 September 1907.  Fifteen feet longer than the Pontiac, the Arethusa was, nevertheless, a deep, short ended knockabout, with the typically knuckled straight run of the keel (although with less drag), that Tom favored in this class, and more tumblehome.  Once again he experimented with the rig.  He stepped the foremast farther forward with the masts further apart.  Right from the start, the big fisherman earned a reputation as a speedster.  Captain Clayton Morrisey, the Arethusa’s first skipper waxed poetic: “She’s the slickest bit of wood that ever went down to Bay of Islands.  Nothing can touch her and an eight-year-old girl’s little finger is stout enough to spin the wheel no matter how fresh it breezes.”  “Can she sail?” exclaimed Captain Morrisey, opening his eyes as if he didn’t quite believe his ears.  “Why, when we were coming up from the herring grounds she cut out her 13 knots an hour for six consecutive hours.”     “We’d see a blotch of smoke away ahead on the horizon and in a little while would make out a tramp steamer bound our way.  Pretty soon the Arethusa was kiting alongside the tramp and then we’d lose sight of her astern.  She did that trick a number of times.”     In fact, with Clayt Morrissey at the helm in 1912, the Arethusa would easily outrun the Canadian Dominion fisheries’ patrol steamer Fiona, “whose commander opined the Arethusa was violating the three-mile limit.”           “At the beginning of 1921, soon after the new [prohibition] law was in place, Captain William F. “Bill” McCoy, a sometime Daytona Beach, Florida, boatbuilder, guided his fully-laden McManus schooner, the Henry L. Marshall, past the Tybee Lighthouse and up the river to Savannah, where, in the dark of the night, he discharged not fish, but 1,500 cases of illicit liquor.  With the proceeds, McCoy replaced himself with a new skipper on board the Marshall and went to Gloucester in search of the boat of his dreams, Tom’s speedy Arethusa.  Although McCoy had fished the Marshall legitimately until after the Eighteenth Amendment dried out the country, he had always thirsted for Arethusa.  With Gloucester feeling the effect of postwar economic contraction, the owners of the fourteen-year-old schooner…..sold her to McCoy in April 1921.  The Arethusa became a rum runner, a fast freighter of bootleg spirits.  McCoy renamed her Tomoka, added a bowsprit so she could carry two jibs, jumbo and jib topsail-and a lot of liquor (she had the capacity of 6,000 cases of illegal alcohol).     He brought the Tomoka to anchor just outside the then three mile limit of United States waters, but well within site of the beach.  He soon began a thriving business with New York and New Jersey bootleggers…. “  [this is where the term ‘the real McCoy’ came from]   Arethusa later returned to fishing, and was lost off Halifax in November 1929.  Her particulars are:   Designer                Thomas F. McManus Builder                    Tarr and James Launch date                25 September 1907 Gross tonnage                157 tons Molded length at caprail of        127’ – 3”     Molded beam                25’ – 0” Molded depth                13’ – 2” Registered dimensions        114.0’ x 25.6’ x 12.5’

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 210 - Mainstay
 
Once the main shrouds were installed the main stay was next.  Like the lower shrouds and the forestay, this was 10 ½" rope.  The first picture shows the main shrouds in place and tensioned, and the mainstay rigged so the served areas could be marked out.
 

 
The shackled bullseyes and eyebolts through the main deck beams were installed earlier.  In the next picture the stay has been served and leathered and is rigged to allow the glue on the leathering to dry in position before painting.
 

 
The stay is clamped where a collar seizing will be placed after the stay is secured at the fore ends.  In the next picture the first seizing at the lower port end has been tied.
 

 
The lower ends of the stay are served as well as the collar at the top.  In the next picture frapping turns to the first seizing on the port side are being made with the aid of a sewing needle.
 

 
The next picture shows the four seizings on each leg completed.
 
 
 
I was very pleased that the stay clears the chafing battens on the mast by about six inches and is just inside the sheet bitts, so I may not install the spreader that was used if needed to keep the stays outside the mast.  The smaller bullseyes inside and just aft of those for the main stay will anchor the main topmast stay and will hopefully fit as well as the first.
 
The last picture shows the completed main stay with the collar seizing applied below the top.
 

 
The sheer poles have yet to be installed on the main shrouds and the lanyards are still dangling loose.
 
 
Ed

Part 21 – Deck Beam Installation (cont’d)
 
Installation of deck beams has been progressing.  The installation of the beams follows a basic process.
 
The first step is to position the beam in the appropriate location, making sure that the centerline on the beam lines up with the centerline string of the shipway.  When positioning is correct, the location of the functional bolt is marked on each end of the beam.
 
                        
 
Since the bolt will be secured to the deck clamp, the angle of the deck clamp is estimated and drawn on the face of the deck beam.
 
                        
 
A very small awl is used to make a starter hole on the deck beam where the hole for the functional bolt will be drilled.
 
                        
 
The hole for the bolt is then drilled, being careful to align the drill bit with the angle drawn on the beam (above).
 
                        
 
A pin, held in a pin vise, is then fed through the drilled hole and is used to make a small mark on the deck clamp.  This will verify that the angle of the drilled hole is correct.
 
                        
 
The hole through the clamp is then drilled by feeding the drill through the hole in the beam.
 
                        
 
PVA glue is applied to the deck clamps at the position of the deck beam, and 1/32” brass rods are then CA glued through the drilled holes as functional bolts.
 
                        
 
Once the glue has set, the bolt is cut to the level of the deck beam top, and a riffler file is used to file the brass rod flush with the surface of the deck beam.
 
                        
 
The end of the deck beam is then sanded down so that is faired with the frames.  This will provide a smooth flow of the sheer plank.
 
                        
 
The top of some of the frames is higher than the top surface of the deck beam.  This is checked by sliding a straight edge down the deck beam. 
 
                        
 
If the top of the frame obstructs the movement of the straight edge, it needs to be reduced by filing or sanding until it’s at the correct height.
 
                        
 
Once the above process is completed, the deck beam is properly located, securely attached to the deck clamp, faired, and the surrounding frames are in line with the top of the deck beam.
 
The holds have half-beams supporting the sides. A full deck beam is used to create the half beams, with an appropriate length taken from outlying end of the full deck beam to ensure that the proper deck camber is maintained.  A small machinist screw clamp is used to hold the inboard end of the half beam in place, while the above procedure is followed for the outboard end of the half beam.
 
                        
 
The following photo shows the forward hatch fully framed out.
 
                        
 
All of the deck beams shown to this point are of pine (castello on the model).  The four beams directly behind the forward hatch are oak (madrone on the model) since they support the weight of the dredge winder and motor.  The first two of these oak beams are supported by the centerboard trunk.  The following two beams are supported by stanchions sitting on the keelson.  The next photo shows the first of these stanchions.
 
                        
 
In addition to the stanchions that support the oak beams, another stanchion is used to support the forward beam of the aft hold.  This particular stanchion has foot steps attached to it for hold entry and egress.
 
                        
 
In the above photo, the ends of the ceiling planks are being sanded to be flush with the edge of the underlying frame.  The aft bulkhead will be built at this location and attached to the aft end of that frame.  Smoothing the ceiling plank ends will allow a clean seam where the bulkhead meets the ceiling planks.  The deck beam that forms the top of the bulkhead has a small (1/32 x 1/32) strip attached to it to provide a consistent gluing surface for the top end of the bulkhead planks.
 
                        
 
The planks of the aft bulkhead were individually installed.  Shaping of the two outer planks was required.
 
                        
 
Most of the deck beams are now in place.  The remainder of the beams will be installed after the cabin has been designed and installed, since the remaining beams may interfere with some of the cabin work if installed too early.
 
                        
 
The work involved in planning and installing the cabin structures will be fairly complex, so it may be a little while before the next post.
 
In the meantime, thanks everyone for following the Kathryn build, and for all of the “Likes”.

Part 20 – Bulkheads, Berths, and Partners
 
Thanks everyone for the "Likes" and comments.  Your interest keeps me interested!
 
Once the Centerboard and Trunk were installed, it was necessary to install the deck beams for the forward hatch.  There are bulkheads that are secured to the forward-most of these beams, and two forward berths are installed forward of the bulkheads.
 
                        
 
Thick card stock was used to make templates for the bulkheads.  Once the templates were shaped for a proper fit, the thin slats that form the bulkheads were glued to the card stock and trimmed to fit.  The following photo shows the port bulkhead as card stock, and the starboard bulkhead fully planked.
 
                        
 
The forward berths are two different widths – the port berth being much narrower than the starboard berth.  These berths were part of Kathryn’s configuration at the time of the HAER survey, but when I saw Kathryn after the recent rebuild there were no forward berths.
 
1/32” plywood was used to make templates for the two berths, and after trial fitting to get the configuration right these templates were surfaced with very narrow planking.  The following photo shows the bulkheads and berths ready for installation.
 
                        
 
The starboard bulkhead has a small passageway door framed out.  This door would allow the occupants of the forward berths to pass through the bulkheads into the main hold.  A small hatchway is also found in the port bow section, serving as a companionway down to the berth area.  On the HAER drawings both the passageway and the companionway hatch are extremely small, so I increased their size somewhat.  The passageway is still extremely small – 18” wide and 24” high.  The hatch will be a similar size.
 
The bulkheads were installed first.
 
                        
 
And then the berths were installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
After installation I realized an error I had made – I only installed the wood slats on the forward face of the bulkheads.  Since the hatch covers will all be removable on the finished model, the card stock at the back of the bulkheads would show.
 
                        
 
To correct this, the individual slats on the back of the bulkheads were added one at a time, working through and around the deck beams.
 
                        
 
 
Mast Partners
 
Since the section of the main mast that goes through the deck is octagonal, the hole through the mast partners needs to also be octagonal.  The following drawing shows the mast partners with the hole for the mast and the wedges around the mast.
 
                        
 
The drawing was glued to the stock for the partners using a glue stick, and then the partners were cut and shaped.
 
                        
 
The partners were trial fitted to the adjoining beams, and were carefully trimmed so that the fit was tight enough for friction to hold them in place, as in the following photo.
 
                        
 
With the partners temporarily in place the mast stub was used to ensure proper placement.
 
                        
 
The partners were then glued in place and the mast stub was once again inserted to verify the partners.
 
                       
 
                        
 
                        
 
With this forward work completed, installation of the deck beams can continue.
 
 

Okay, call me crazy if you like as this will be  number three of models that I will be working on.
But as I haven't encountered any problems with this one, I will proceed with the build of the famous Bluenose.
This while I wait for parts for the Syren and Solo.
I guess this kit doesn't need any introduction or picture of contents.
So I will leave that out, however I do have extra material that I will be using later while building her.
This extra comes from Syren Model Company, with other word our dear Chuck Passaro.
 
This kit was bought many years ago and the keel and bulkhead plywood is still straight.
When I was putting the false keel pieces together it turned out so straight I was amazed.
The plywood is very nice and very little sanding is needed to get the bulkheads into each slot.
 
Creating the rabbet was not as hard as I thought. Just being careful at the bow where the rabbet is extreme.
I pre-beveled the bulkheads so there will be less sanding once they are glued in place.
 
 

Greetings Shipmates, a start has been made in the shipyard.  The keel has been assembled and the rabbet cut.  I first made two copy of the plans showing the bearding line and the rabbet and cut one on the bearding line and one on the rabbet line and by positioning them onto the keel was able to trace the respective line onto the keel with a pencil.  Then the rabbet was bevelled using a palm chisel.  All was going well until I got too close at the stern and actually went through the plywood and had to glue it back on so hopefully it will not affect the outcome.
 
The frames were cut out, dry fitted, checked, and adjusted as necessary and then glued into final position.  Now the whole assembly is drying and tomorrow will be ready for fairing.  Oh the joys that I have to look forward to!
 
On Saturday 28/11 it was my birthday and the Admiral must have thought that I was a good little boy all year and surprised me with a Panart HMS Victory Art. 738 this is the deluxe edition with the coppering and photo etch etc. Who is a happy boy now? But it will be a couple of builds until I get enough experience to tackle the grand old lady and do her justice.
 
I am following Bob Hunts practicum and it has been very useful as the plans are a bit hit and miss and the other reference by Frank Marstini - Ship modelling simplified, which builds a Bluenose, does not even have cutting the rabbet in it - well my copy doesn't anyway.  However from reading all these references, they all have some contradictions and some things left out or not modelled but when they are all combined and with the tips and builds on here I have been able to come up with a plan of what will hopefully be a complete and accurate model.
 
Onto the photos:
 
The first photo is the hull with rabbet cut.
The second photo is all the frames installed ready for faring.
The third photo is the Panart HMS Victory.
 
Next step faring the frames and completing the hull ready for planking.
 
Yours aye, Jason Wright
 
Never give up the ship.

Ahoy shipmates, I have been back in the shipyard after a lay off with the man flu.  I have completed fairing the hull and adding some filler blocks to the stern area.  This completes chapter 1 of the practicum.  Next chapter planking the hull.
 
The pictures show the progress up to this point.
 
Also whilst I was dying a slow miserable death with no sympathy from the MRS the postman came through and delivered the paints I require to complete the model and hide the multitude of mistakes that I am bound to make along the way.  Next stop the hardware store for some filler to fair the hull after planking and then there should be no more interruptions for supplies until the ship is completed.  Fingers crossed, famous last words etc...
 
Yours aye, Jason Wright
 
Never give up the ship.

Greetings ship mates, I have been away from the shipyard so long that I hadn't even realised that is over a year since I posted anything!  This was mainly due to moving house and resetting up the shop, breaking my arm late last year but mainly I got discouraged with my hull planking efforts that I was totally willing to give it all up and left the hull to sit in the back ground of my hobby station and build some other models mainly bit part magazine offerings.  Then I got an email from Bob Hunt saying that he was starting a new website and this for some reason sparked my interest again.  So I dusted off the old girl, gave my self an upper cut and a stern talking to and got back into the ship yard and started building again.  The new mantra - I'm a beginner, ask for help and advice where needed and that I am allowed to make mistakes!   I have finally finished planking, sanding, wood filling and final sanding my hull! Basically chapter 2 of the practicum is finally finished.   Filler maybe the modellers best friend with regards to filling those gaps in hulls but one thing I have come to realize: I maybe too harsh on myself, especially as a beginner. The amount of filler left is a lot less than I thought there would be.   Wood filler should come with a male health warning - if you do not ever want to incur the wrath of the MRS do not sand inside anywhere even in the garage! The dust gets everywhere!   Anyway onto the pics, not very exciting but a milestone has been reached now onto chapter 3 - Planking the Fore Deck, just a few minor touch-ups to do where filler got onto the top of the model then I will start the decking.   Yours aye,   Jason Wright Planking completed, looks a mess right now   Sanded to 80 grit looking a lot better Filler applied - works wonders to hide a multitude of errors Final sanding to 180 grit - looks a lot better now and more like it is supposed to be representing

Here are the latest pics of my Bluenose build.  In the second pic you can see some wood filler I've added to try to fill in some gaps.  I'm not too happy how the boards line up at the aft end but I think most of it will be hidden by the rails.
 

Not too much time to tinker lately due to my working scheme and other private commitments.
 
In the meantime I was already looking for my cat for quite a while. 
 
And how do you know, that you found the new daytime hideout of this feline creature?
 
 
Next modeller´s meeting there will be a lot of chilly con cat ;-)
 
XXXDAn

Thank you all for the nice comments.
 
@Richard.
Looks like you did not manage to go through the whole report yet ;-)
Still further down the page there is more about the copper ...
#22
... and down the road you will find more here ...
#53
... and the most important update here:
#1113
... and some more adventures there:
#1203
 
Actually the Copper is laid over the original Heller structure which surprisingly gets the pattern quite well. Only flaw is the exaggerated height of the overlap. Seen the original thickness and compared to the scale, actually no step should be visible. Even pictures from coppered ship´s bottoms do not reveal the step, only real close ups do show. Next life I will sand the plastic imitations down and will tile the copper flat, the overlap just indicated by a hint of nails.
 
Also there are much more shades of color on weathered copper, telling the story what the ship did last and where it has been, see here:
#35
 
Cheers Daniel