Elia

I wouldnt have expected anything different....from Hobbymill.   
 
Its lovely to have as good a resource available now that he is no longer around. 

I dont own a drum sander.  Many folks dont.   I dont have a bandsaw either.   Many folks dont.   I also find my most precious item these days is time.   Like with other items and kit products available,  the last thing I want to do is buy something only to have to fix it so it meets my standards.   As a guy who would rather spend his limited time on the fun stuff,  I am just happy there is one wood supplier I can count on that supplies me with a product I dont have spend hours making usable.  OR spend extra money buying the tools to do so.  
 
I see nothing wrong with being extra happy about one thing that is actually supplied as advertised. So few things are these days.  There arent many places like this and I am very fortunate to have the resource.  Literally....Syren Ship Model Company would be out of business if I had to spend the time needed to re-thickness the amount of wood I use.   
 
I am sure everyone can mill their own if they wanted to and if they had the tools.   I just dont want to.   Thank you Jason for making my life a whole lot easier.   And the same goes for countless other model builders.     I ve got nothing but love for ya baby!!!  It made the difference between me being in business and out of business. 

A bit more fiddling with the Carb.
First I made a whole new one with a flange at the manifold side. The top air intake also needed to have the adjusting screw added, it was easier to make a new one rather than trying to fix the first one.
 
I "knurled" the edge of the adjusting screw by pressing the head of the 1x72 screw under the edge of a file and rolled it along on a flat surface of MDF then beveled the edged on the lathe. the spring came out of a tiny ball race which I took apart for the springs and balls.
 

 

 

 
Michael
 
 

Hello all and thanks for the birthday wishes, also to the ones who PM'd me.  81 Years young - I honestly never thought I'd be this old     But, living on borrowed time for many years I'm thankful for each and every day.
 
Well Mark, I'm not too thrilled with the molding but will have to wait till after I come back from Fayetteville, N.C. next week.  I haven't even looked for water or alcohol based stains yet.  
 
Dave, the models are all stowed in the truck and I hope to shove off between 0600 and 0630 tomorrow morning.  It's gonna be a boring ride all by myself.  Yeah, I'll be careful alright, it's the other drivers I'm worried about.   
 
Hello Jack, good seeing you again and yes please, go play catch-up.  I'm actually doing the same thing and am at page 59 now.  
 
Y'all hang in I'll see all yuns next week.
 
Cheers,

Hi everyone
 
Well tonight I had a go at making the wind vane and aerial that sits right up the very top of Rainbow's 150ft mast. They took me all night and I can't say that it was easy. I can't even say that the results were worth the effort because they're so tiny and so insignificant, that you'd literally need a maginifying glass too see the wind vane clearly. In fact, I can't even photograph them clearly.
 
Oh well, here goes anyway...I warned you! The photo is a bit blurry and, and, and let's just say, you may need to add a dose of imagination in order to see them clearly.
 
Oh, and just for the sake of it, I couldn'nt resist adding another photo of the mocked up sails...I just love the way the Genoa curves around the deck line of the hull when viewed from above looking down...
 
All the best!
 
Patrick

Hi everyone, especially Piet, Bob and Igor and everyone else that 'Liked' Rainbow's progress so far.
 
Well, tonight a major milestone has been reached!  Earlier today I went to the local Art Supplies store.  I showed them all the info and advice that I received from Igor, Leo-zd, Row, Piet, Dennis, Michael, etc about the coloured pencils.  They agreed that the 6H graphite pencil was indeed the best to use for the lines and the 2B graphite was best for the shading.  I was glad and promptly bought the pencils.  I also bought some drafting film to draw the templates for the sails.
 
A short while ago, using the graphite pencils, I drew the templates of the sails onto the drafting film.  The results are shown in the photos.  Doesn't look too bad, I must admit.  
 
I'm still eagerly awaiting Igor's packing film, but in the meantime, at least I've got the temporary templates done.  I'll still experiment with Leo-zd's and Dennis' methods in the meantime. 
 
Anyhow, here're the photos of the temporary templates.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 

Hi everyone and thanks especially for all your Advice, Likes and compliments.
 
I've progressed a little bit on the rigging (my favourite bit...not!!). The latest photos are provided below. Admittedly, the rigging looks really messy at the moment because it's all pretty much temporary. Still lots of work to go.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Time for another update.  The deck planking proper has now been started and I must say it seems pretty easy after the hull planking - nice straight pieces of wood to work with for a change!
 
The photos show the present state of play!
 
John
 

 

 

Thanks for all the kind comments and visits they mean a great deal and are very motivating.
 
Just a small update because I am off to dinner with Jude to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary this evening.
 
The carb is started
 

 

 
There are a few more bits yet then it all gets soldered together the main assembly will wind into the manifold and the nut will lock it into the vertical position.
 
Michael

This is probably my last update of my Bluenose log.
I took all the pics for the gallery and here I present some of them. The gallery will be open soon.

I would like to thank you all for replys, comment, likes or just stopping by at my log. THANKS   .

Enjoy the pics.


 

Fitted chain-plates in place.



 
Positioned and glued deck items in place.  In the instructions there were a couple of wrong measurements where they should go so I marked all positions with masking tape where every piece should go to avoid surprises after they are glued.

 
Maybe I an being a bit paranoid that small items will come off when rigging so I fixed with wire dowels.



 
All in place. I did not fit the dories for now because I think they will be a bit in the way when rigging.






 
Now eager to start the sail masts.
 
 

Thank you for your encouragement Dimitris.
 

Wheel fitted in place.  I am polishing the metal parts first with steel wool, then polish them with a metal polish for cars I had in my garage.  It brings out quite a good shine in them. Then I varnish them, hopefully they will not darken again.
 
 
Thanks cwboland
 


Fortunately I had checked the contents when I bought the kit, and yes you are right, there was almost a whole set missing from the large deadeyes.  Also missing was the very small double bollard that goes on the capstan.  I had ordered them over the internet from a supplier in UK. They have a vast selection of fittings and very quick service and reasonable postage charges.
I have started fitting the deadeyes to the chainplates.  The rings for the deadeyes are a bit small.  When you fit them on the deadeyes, the hooked ends remain too much apart to fit on the chainplate.  Had to adjust each and every one of them.
 
That's all for today, hope I have more for the weekend.
 
Robert

Some more progress
 

Dories varnished and ready to go on deck
 

Capstan and stern windlass parts.
 

Capstan and windlass built and mounted on base.
 

Embellishments and ship's name positioned and glued to hull.


 

Propellers polished and fixed in position.
 
I apologies for any wrong names for parts of the ship.  I'm still trying to get used to them.
 
Robert
 

Hello shipmates, I did some additional work!! I do thank you all for all the likes and visits to my build log!! :)
 
Cheers
Dimitris
 
 
 
 

Hello shipmates, I do thank you all for your comments and visits to my build log. A small update as requested. I installed and painted the hand rails on stern rudder housing, i also painted the rudder. I constructed the three crates that belong to the bow deck.
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Hello Shipmates, I do thank you all for visiting my build log and also for your likes. :)
The portholes that I purchased by rbmodels have arrived today. I installed 2 of them to see how they look like. I will appreciate any comments and suggestions.
 
 
Kind Regards
Dimitris

Hello Carl,
regarding your comments about the shape of the manifold, I am simply following the shape of the original design.
 
This is the manifold off a 3 HP buffalo Engine
 

 
I am going to use a vapor carb which is in fact no carb at all see this video
 
I have to admit I am experimenting here and following the concept of using fumes in the same way as the chap in the video. I am also pushing the limits of what might be possible, I don't know.
I believe I can make this work, I might have to use butane or Propane, but they require a different set up for feeding the engine, if the vapor doesn't work I will go with the butane.
 
The folk who build a lot of model engines have done a lot of experimenting and I am following some of their ideas regarding the fuel.
 
Thanks for all the fine comments and visits.
 
Michael
 
 
 

This morning I received a great photo from Roger so then spent most of the rest of the morning learning how to make even tighter loops in the tubing.
 

 
After a while I got a couple of parts which looked like a good match, I also used a slightly larger diameter tube that was brass so I also needed another pair of flanges (I'm getting faster at making them at least).
 

 
Soldered them up the same way as the first two times.
 

 
Drilled a larger hole in the new loop
 

 
I wanted to ensure that it was all lined up so soldered the bottom piece while it was on the engine.
 
.
 

 
After lunch I did some more tight loops and get a better bend on the lower part so un-soldered the bottom piece and added the new one with a 5 x 64 threaded coupling
 
Here is the new tap I made it the same way as the other taps.  
 

 
and the final configuration. now I can make the carb
 

 

 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

Gary,
 
I've been following along, watching your build and have been somewhat perplexed by the directions for the seine boat. With the apparent amount of keel depth protruding beyond the formers I find it difficult to imagine wrapping a 'frame' strip all the way over the former, from one side to another without a kink in the 'frame' strip occuring. If the keel were sanded down to the level of the formers then I might see that working....but then the notch in the keel at each former would apparently be very thin.
 
I went to look at the build log of a former DDM and MSW 1.0 member, Jim Lefever, over at shipmodeling.net, where he has both a build log of his Benjamin Latham and his seine boat (in which he apparently didn't follow the MS directions). Here is a link to his seine boat log. It might give you some ideas on how you approach its build.
 
http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=984&ppuser=2811
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

First of all thank you all for the kind messages and birthday greetings. Judy and me went for a nice walk and them met her Mum and Brother for supper at a great Greek restaurant that has tasteful furnishings and no TV's.
 
Row the taper pins are quite tough, I got the idea about using them from some old mechanical navigating equipment that all sorts of splines and gears that were fixed with small taper pins.
 
I started work on the inlet manifold today, it is 1/8 inch diameter copper tube I am going to use a petrol vapor carburetor. By all accounts this type of carb works well in small engines. I can make the carb look scale and have the vapor pass right through the model carb with the fuel tank hidden under the seat or floor boards.
 
the tube was annealed and filled with some .093 styrene them bent around some 1/2 inch dowel, the the loop was folded down a few degrees to match the face on the cylinder.
 

 
The extra length was cut off with a jewelers saw and the styrene burnt out. the flanges were turned on the lathe filed to shape then soldered to the tube. The faces that mate to the cylinder were cleaned up with a file and a sanding stick.
 

 
The four short holes in the cylinder needed to be tapped for the manifold studs these holes are only .060" deep I reground the tip of a 1x72 tap to make it absolutely flat and square, then just knocked off a few thou with an Arkansas Stone. The head was rest in the small machine vice so that the manifold face was horizontal, used the back end of the #52 drill(.063")
to locate the first hole then was able to index to all the rest following the numbers on my plans.
 
the drill was replaced with the tap with one of the brass thumb discs for the tapping.
 

 

 
I turned up some stud from some .073 music wire, this allowed me to cut a slot for a small screwdriver to set the stud temporarily, I will use high temp loctite with the final set up. The stud on the right is too long so I will shorten it up to match the left one.
 
Because the space is pretty tight I made some special small diameter nuts out of some 3/32 allen key, (a great source for small hex-stock old allen keys) I softened it by heating up to a bright cherry red and letting it cool slowly.
 

 
Tomorrow I will finish off the inlet by adding the T and the bottom of the loop which is where the carb with attach about 1/4 inch below the T
 
Thank you to all who visited the log over the last day or so.
 
Michael

Ed...I agree with your segmentation......from Crothers description...Lady Liberty kinda straddles the demarcation line between the stem and siding(tough place to separate a woman).  As you did..it looks easier to place her entirety against the hull side then against the stem....Same with the eagle.  Never the less...your magicsculpt work is outstanding.  Being a wax worker..I did a similar work using wax carved in place to make my carvings..then lightly covered with an epoxy glaze to seal. That way I can easily follow the hull contours.
 
Very impressive work Ed...... Impressive.  Makes the model snap alive.
 
Rob

Thank you, all.
 
George, I have not used Sculpey, but I believe it is dried or cured in the oven.  I do not know if it an epoxy, but it may be.  I know it is commonly used, so others may comment.  Magic Sculpt is a two part epoxy sculpting material.  It hardens slowly over about 24 hours without heat.  This can be accelerated with warming, but it is usually better to let it cure at ambient conditions.  AS it begins to firm, it can be worked in different ways.  For example, it is often easier to indent eye sockets when the material is stiffer - especially if you have shaky hands as I do.  I did not utilize that on these figures.  They were all made in one go.  The material also responds well to moisture.  Wet brushing or rubbing can leave a silky finish.  I use the natural - grey green colored - type.  I have tried the white, but it works somewhat differently.  I have also tried other epoxy types - including Milliput, but found MagicSculpt to work best for me.
 
Here's a link:
 
http://www.magicsculp.com/
 
 
Ed

Finally I could write, Bluenose is finished     .

Life boats were last piece in puzzle. I replace kits plywood with pearwood, and definitely looks better.

The reason for slow progress is on the last photo      .

I will post photos of finished model in a few days.

Ed,
 
I'm in complete agreement with the others - absolutely superb work on the decorations. Beautiful.
 
Elia