Elia

Gary,
 
I've been following along, watching your build and have been somewhat perplexed by the directions for the seine boat. With the apparent amount of keel depth protruding beyond the formers I find it difficult to imagine wrapping a 'frame' strip all the way over the former, from one side to another without a kink in the 'frame' strip occuring. If the keel were sanded down to the level of the formers then I might see that working....but then the notch in the keel at each former would apparently be very thin.
 
I went to look at the build log of a former DDM and MSW 1.0 member, Jim Lefever, over at shipmodeling.net, where he has both a build log of his Benjamin Latham and his seine boat (in which he apparently didn't follow the MS directions). Here is a link to his seine boat log. It might give you some ideas on how you approach its build.
 
http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=984&ppuser=2811
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

First of all thank you all for the kind messages and birthday greetings. Judy and me went for a nice walk and them met her Mum and Brother for supper at a great Greek restaurant that has tasteful furnishings and no TV's.
 
Row the taper pins are quite tough, I got the idea about using them from some old mechanical navigating equipment that all sorts of splines and gears that were fixed with small taper pins.
 
I started work on the inlet manifold today, it is 1/8 inch diameter copper tube I am going to use a petrol vapor carburetor. By all accounts this type of carb works well in small engines. I can make the carb look scale and have the vapor pass right through the model carb with the fuel tank hidden under the seat or floor boards.
 
the tube was annealed and filled with some .093 styrene them bent around some 1/2 inch dowel, the the loop was folded down a few degrees to match the face on the cylinder.
 

 
The extra length was cut off with a jewelers saw and the styrene burnt out. the flanges were turned on the lathe filed to shape then soldered to the tube. The faces that mate to the cylinder were cleaned up with a file and a sanding stick.
 

 
The four short holes in the cylinder needed to be tapped for the manifold studs these holes are only .060" deep I reground the tip of a 1x72 tap to make it absolutely flat and square, then just knocked off a few thou with an Arkansas Stone. The head was rest in the small machine vice so that the manifold face was horizontal, used the back end of the #52 drill(.063")
to locate the first hole then was able to index to all the rest following the numbers on my plans.
 
the drill was replaced with the tap with one of the brass thumb discs for the tapping.
 

 

 
I turned up some stud from some .073 music wire, this allowed me to cut a slot for a small screwdriver to set the stud temporarily, I will use high temp loctite with the final set up. The stud on the right is too long so I will shorten it up to match the left one.
 
Because the space is pretty tight I made some special small diameter nuts out of some 3/32 allen key, (a great source for small hex-stock old allen keys) I softened it by heating up to a bright cherry red and letting it cool slowly.
 

 
Tomorrow I will finish off the inlet by adding the T and the bottom of the loop which is where the carb with attach about 1/4 inch below the T
 
Thank you to all who visited the log over the last day or so.
 
Michael

Ed...I agree with your segmentation......from Crothers description...Lady Liberty kinda straddles the demarcation line between the stem and siding(tough place to separate a woman).  As you did..it looks easier to place her entirety against the hull side then against the stem....Same with the eagle.  Never the less...your magicsculpt work is outstanding.  Being a wax worker..I did a similar work using wax carved in place to make my carvings..then lightly covered with an epoxy glaze to seal. That way I can easily follow the hull contours.
 
Very impressive work Ed...... Impressive.  Makes the model snap alive.
 
Rob

Thank you, all.
 
George, I have not used Sculpey, but I believe it is dried or cured in the oven.  I do not know if it an epoxy, but it may be.  I know it is commonly used, so others may comment.  Magic Sculpt is a two part epoxy sculpting material.  It hardens slowly over about 24 hours without heat.  This can be accelerated with warming, but it is usually better to let it cure at ambient conditions.  AS it begins to firm, it can be worked in different ways.  For example, it is often easier to indent eye sockets when the material is stiffer - especially if you have shaky hands as I do.  I did not utilize that on these figures.  They were all made in one go.  The material also responds well to moisture.  Wet brushing or rubbing can leave a silky finish.  I use the natural - grey green colored - type.  I have tried the white, but it works somewhat differently.  I have also tried other epoxy types - including Milliput, but found MagicSculpt to work best for me.
 
Here's a link:
 
http://www.magicsculp.com/
 
 
Ed

Finally I could write, Bluenose is finished     .

Life boats were last piece in puzzle. I replace kits plywood with pearwood, and definitely looks better.

The reason for slow progress is on the last photo      .

I will post photos of finished model in a few days.

Ed,
 
I'm in complete agreement with the others - absolutely superb work on the decorations. Beautiful.
 
Elia

Hi everyone
 
A quick update.  Before the rigging commences proper, I needed to add a few of the last details whilst access to the deck is still possible.  These are, the rear deck hatch (shown in the open position), the foredeck hatch to the focsle (Bob if you're reading this, I finally found the hatch!) and the life raft.  The life raft is the funny white rectangle with black lines on it which is located immediately behind the skylight on the mid-deck.  
 
Finally, on the mast, I also added the radar dome.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi everyone!
 
Thanks for all your comments and feedback. Greatly appreciated!
 
The latest update and photos shows that I've made some progress with the bit I hate the most....rigging.
 
Some of the deck hardware, eg blocks, etc have been installed and I've made some attempts to run some rigging through them in order to see how they'll all work. The bendy mast has also been put in, albeit it may look too bendy, but don't worry, the back stay tension can be adjusted. It's all temporary at the moment.
 
I've also had a go at doing the railings (on one side of the ship only), at this stage. I'll do the other side later on.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Patick, I again tried to make the Cup for the salon of your yacht.

But... it seems, I have a little time for other attempts.

John, Steve, Denis, Druxey, Mark, Lawrence, thanks for your kind remarks. A big thanks also to all who have visited.
 
The valves and lifters have been a tricky bit of work so far. Had to make a wrench for the reduced sized nuts.
 

 

 
drilling the holes for the taper pins to fix the cams
 

 

 
All the cams are now pinned in place.
 

 
here is a video of the valves in motion
 
Michael
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 116 – Bow Decoration
 
Young America's bow decoration is interesting for a number of reasons.  Each side is different.  Just aft of a billet decorated with greenery, the carved figures rest mostly on the waist planking and partially on the base of the billet.  There were no headboards, so it is not clear how these were mounted on the original ship – much less how to mount them on the model -  due to the angle between the two surfaces.  Also, unlike the gilded stern decoration, the figures at the bow were painted in natural colors.  All this, like many other aspects of the ship, is based on Bill Crothers research.
 
After some unsuccessful attempts to fashion a wood base in the angle, I finally decided to sculpt these as six separate pieces, then fit them together on the bow.
The first picture shows the initial figures, sculpted with MagicSculpt® on wax paper taped flat on the pattern sheet.
 

 
The figures are quite small.  The starboard side features a female figure – presumably Liberty – with a shield flanked by draped flags.  On the port side an American Eagle is substituted for the female figure.  Below is the sculpted female figure before any post-hardening refinement.  The points on the flag staffs are thumb tack points.
 

 
The next picture shows some refining of the sculpture using a very small chisel.
 

 
In the next picture the fragile greenery has been lifted off the waxed paper, laid on the billet and touched with a drop or three of thin CA.
 

 
 
Refinement of the greenery was done after being glued on.  In the next picture the three port figures have been fitted and glued on with CA.
 

 
The figures were set into soft sculpting material placed in the angle between the billet and the side, than pushed into a fit.  Some modification of the parts was needed for this.  The sculptures must leave clearance for the square bowsprit to slide in and out.  Excess material was removed.
 
After attachment, the figures were primed with thinned flat black enamel.  The entire hull was given one last coat of acrylic paint and the figures were painted using acrylic gouache.  The next picture shows the starboard decoration.
 

 
The next picture shows the port side.
 

 
The greenery is actually brighter with light highlights than shown in the photos.  The next picture, from dead ahead, shows both sides.  Photos like these and closer ones were very helpful in judging the paint job and suggesting improvements.  The model went back and forth a few times for these.
 

 
The acrylic gouache used for painting the figures dries dead flat, causing an almost two dimensional appearance in the photos – especially in the close ups.  I may give these a coat of semi-gloss medium, perhaps the acrylic sanding sealer I used over the stern lettering.
 
Speaking of that, I received the second order of dry transfers, so I was able to correct the letters that were photo shopped in the last post.  The last picture shows the repaired letters – unadulterated.
 

 
This picture was taken before the final repair on the C.  After repair the dry transfer letters were given a coat of diluted sanding sealer.   I am also quite happy with the final black finish on the hull – shown in this picture.
 
With all this work done, the lower framing was given a last coat of wax, so the model should not have to be inverted again, I hope.  This will allow me to get on with work on the upper deck – cabins, etc.
 
Ed

Hello All,
 
I have just become a member and am already half way through my second build, Bluenose II. I have already built the Juan Sebastian Elcano and now I'm building this kit to gain more experience before I go for a more challenging project, maybe the HMS Victory 1:72 scale. From what I have seen in this forum I am sure I will learn a lot. I haven't kept any photos of my work in progress for the Bluenose so I uploaded a few images showing what I have finished up to now. I will upload more images as I go along and probably put forward a few (maybe a lot) questions. I will appreciate any comments and hints where I can improve.
 

 

 

Hull and deck finished, painted and varnished.
 



Bowsprit fitted as well.
 

Have prepared most of the cabins, etc to go on deck.
 

Stern Cabin
 

Central mess room
 

Now finishing the boats to go on deck.
 
Thanking you for all the support which I'm sure I will receive
 
Regards
Robert

More work on the boats.
 

Stanchions cut and fixed to inside of hull, then trimmed.
 

Fitted gunwale covers.
 

Boat ready for varnish.  Oar locks are made from brass thread and fitted in drilled holes on gunwale cover.
 

These are the two rope tie-offs to go on deck.  On small items like this I find it convenient to drill a small hole at the base and glue a piece of wire.  Easy to handle them when painting When fixing on deck trim it down to about 5mm, drill a hole on deck, same wire diameter, and glue it with wire inserted in the hole.  Much stronger bond.
 
 

Bill,
 
Young America was equipped with a moonsail on the main mast - a 26'-4" yard.  With her original single topsail rig, this would have been the sixth sail.  With her later double topsails it would be the 7th.  Both surving photos of her show double topsails and no moon sail.  These were probably taken in the 1870s or 80s. 
 
Rigs were often - usually - determined by captains or owners - sometimes in spite of builder opposition.  Some were even influenced in their original construction by captains assigned to that by owners.  A famous example is the assignment of Rob Waterman - perhaps the most famous of captains - to the construction of Webb's Challenge.  As was common with captains, Waterman insisted on excessive sparring.  This may have accounted for her less than stellar performance on the first voyage.  She did much better under later captains.  Sparring usually evolved after original construction as a ships' performance became better defined.  Excessive - and dangerous - over-sparring was a common occurrence with the extreme clippers.  Many of these lofty rigs - and the men on them - were carried off by the wind.
 
Ed

Hello cg451 and David.  Your advice on Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners" is right on for this build.  I was able to get a copy used in great condition online.  The man's attention to detail is astounding.
 
The glue cured overnight and today I started fairing the hull.  Also, note the stand that I constructed to hold the hull upside down.  I took advantage of the holes for the mast steps and used dowels of the appropriate diameter that I secured into a piece of scrap wood.  This will provide me with a stable platform to use when planking the hull.  Obviously I am not done "fairing" yet but did want to provide a progress report.
 
<<Gary>> 

John,
 
Sweet work on that deck framing and the margin plank.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

John,
 
Sweet work on that deck framing and the margin plank.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

I didn’t get much done this time. We had company from back east trying to get out of the snow and cold.
 
I added the framing for the cabin roof and a little more trim and a little more paint.  Now I’m calling the hull done.  Yes I know there is that spot on the stack that needs to be touched up but that isn’t that much. Next will be the mast, spars, rigging and sails,
 
Bob
 

 

 

 
 

Just a small update.  I've started work on the deck, but the fitting of the margin plank has taken a little longer than expected, so that's all that's been done for the moment.  Next time I manage to get to the museum I can start on the deck planking proper.
 
John
 

 

 

Hi everyone
 
Thanks for all the Likes and comments, all of which are greatly appreciated!
 
The latest update is that I've had a go at the low foot rail that goes around the deck. On the real ship, the rail is low; perfectly designed for the crew to wedge/brace their feet against in a heeling / pitching deck. Given the tiny scale of my ship, I had to compromise (of course) as I couldn't make it exactly like the real railing, but at least I gave it a go!
 
Hope you enjoy the photos. All the best for the weekend and for those who celebrate Easter.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Spent the evening turning up the new valves.
 

 

 
decided that the flywheel might be a good way to spin the valves
 

 

 
after the valves were lapped I parted them off
 

 
then completed the rest of the turning.
 

 
popped in the new springs and the old keepers.
 

 
tomorrow I will cut the new lifters.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

I decided to build BENJAMIN W. LATHAM for a couple of reasons.  I like the lines and the history of the New England fishing schooners.  I like the 1/4" = 1 ft scale.   I like that this kit has more hull and less rigging...and no cannons to rig .  And of course, I got the kit at a great price on an eBay auction. 
 
The center keel / bulwark former came in four pieces of 1/8' thick laser cut wood - two forward and two aft.  This sandwich construction resulted in a center keel less prone to warping and stronger than a single thickness of wood.  It also provides a nice center line when cutting the rabbet.  Further, when I attached the keel and stem to the center keel, I secured them with nine 1/8 inch wooden dowels spaced along the keel.  The center line helped me to center the drill holes for these. The first picture below shows the assembled center keel with supports for the mast steps, and the keel and stem attached. 
 
This kit also provides a very nice diagram of the locations of the planking belts along each of the bulkheads (shown in the second picture).  I decided to use this and marked the location of each of the belts in red on both sides of all bulkheads (picture 3).
 
I fitted the bulkheads to the center keel without gluing to make sure everything lined up.  I placed the frame on top of the plan to help verify that all bulkheads are properly aligned.  When I glue the bulkheads to the center keel, I will use blocks of hard pine with precise 90 degree corners to help make sure the bulkheads are in alignment. 
 
<<Gary>>
 
 
 
 

Hello again:
 
The restoration of the Wm. H. Batson is now complete; progress impeded by a health problem.  The name is that of the gentleman who built the hull, almost 50 years ago. 
 
Because of my limited building space (and metal fabricating skills), I used Model Shipways parts for the metal deck fittings and also for the blocks.  The sails, masts, running and standing rigging, and cabin hatches, are all scratch built.
 
I still have to make fishing dories, which will replace the two plastic dinghies on the after cabin top.  The longer boat on the forward cabin top came with the hull and will stay there, since I like the effect. 
 
It's been great fun, even more so because of what I've learned from MSW.
 
Rick
 
 
 
 
 

Eddie
 
If you live in the US near the ocean, there may be help.  The Lettie is in NY.  New England has several Gloucestermen that serve as examples and there may be appropriate schooners on the West Coast.   Nothing like seeing the real thing to get it right.     If you live other than in the US, I am sure there are plenty of members that may be able to steer you to an applicable schooner.
 
If you do not have access to the actual boats in the water, The American Fishing Schooner is your best bet, book wise, IMHO.  I have used it in guiding me through 4 schooners over the past few years.    You can also find   schooner photos on the internet for some fine up close details although most are under sail.
 
 
Allan

I have not posted in a while, but I'm still working on it.
I finished planking the hull and completed sanding. I used shellac for surface preparation before painting. Talking about painting, I went recently to the Cape Ann museum in Essex to look at the Ben Latham model from Eric Ronberg. I decided to paint the deck grey, and will paint the waterway white, along with the semi circles on the deck.
The transom gave me a lot of headache, hopefully it will turn out ok.
As for the rudder, the third version is finally giving me satisfaction !
As a note, I am keeping a log to see how many actual hours I am spending on this model here.
 
I will post pictures soon
Cheers