Bob Legge

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 288 –Main Topsail Yards
 
In the first picture the main lower topsail yard has been permanently installed and rigging work is in progress. 
 

 
The triple tackles for the upper topsail sheets have been rigged between the sheet block and eyebolts on the main top rim.  With no sails and no clew lines on the upper sail, the other ends of these chains pas through the cheek blocks and are lashed to the jackstays slightly inside the yardarm at a convenient location for shackling to the upper sail when it is bent.  The length of this chain above the yard is limited to less than the working length of its tackle.  The starboard lower topsail sheet and clew line has also been rigged in the picture.  The next picture shows the completed rigging for this yard – except for its braces.
 
 
 
 
The rigging added in this picture includes the four bunt lines and the port lower topsail sheet.  The buntlines pass through double blocks lashed to the #1 top mast shrouds, then down through fairleads in the top, through fairleads on a lower shroud, to their belaying points on the main pin rails.
 
In the next picture, the parral for the upper yard has been roughed out and is being test fit to the upper yard.
 

 
After gluing and bolting to the yard, it is being test fit to the topmast in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the hinged clasp and its strapping have been fitted and the yard again tested in position.
 

 
The last picture shows the after side of the parral.
 

 
The hinge and pin connections were modeled using short lengths of 18 gauge copper wire.  These are fitted with pins that slide into the wood yoke.  This method was described in an earlier post.  The yard was then removed for further ironwork and rigging to be added.
 
Ed

Hi Ben;
 
I am not sure if you are doing this for ease of draughting,  to be altered later,  but the joints in your keel are what is called a 'half-lap' joint.  This is much weaker than the joint which was actually used in a keel,  the 'scarph' joint,  where the cut was only one third into the timber at the shoulder. 
 
I suspect that as you have obviously read the TFFM volumes,  you are aware of this,  but I thought it best to be sure. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

When I initially started this project, I started down the path creating a 3d model in Fusion following the order of the book.  It quickly became apparent that this strategy is not an optimal way of working.  However, the work below on the keel is fairly simple and was able to be salvaged before I shited to following a construction order closer to what is described in Steel.

The process used is as follows:
 
1.  Under a new component create separate sketches for the fore, aft and a middle timber of the keel.
 

 
2.  The top plane worked well to construct the aft and middle sketches as  it lends itself well to a extrude along the Y axis.
 

Because the mid keel components are repeated, I repeated the component using the rectangular pattern feature.  This gives me a reference edge to project in the fore timber sketch with the added bonus of propagating tweaks forward.
 

 
3.  On the fore timber, I constructed the sketch using the left side plane as it allows for projecting the arcs of the stem to model the the boxing.  Whenever possible, I"ve used projections off of one of my "master" sketches to allow for propagation of changes to the bodies that model the timbers.
 

 
4.  To create the simplified boxing joint I created the sketch for the lower stem on the left plane, extruded on one face left face to 1/2 the thickness and used the combine/cut option on the fore keel.   Then did the same on the other side but make the fore keel the cutting tool.

Returned to the fore mast and did a few more ratlines . . . now there are 16 on each side, so I guess that must be close to halfway to the futtock  stave >>>

Since I had fitted the main mast futtock shrouds I wanted to rig the topmast shrouds, but the crosstrees and bolsters would have to be in place first.
Being only about 2.5mm thick, I couldn't see how I would be able to make the crosstrees from a single piece of wood. So I attempted to make my own 'plywood'.  With the bandsaw I was able to slice thin strips of only 0.63mm from a piece of Makore >>>

Four of these strips glued at right angles to the others produced plywood of around 2.5mm. As I'm not very artistic, and not trusting my ability to draw these crosstrees to be identical to each other, I copied and scaled a drawing from a book and glued that onto the plywood >>>
The milling machine ensured that the 6 holes were perpendicular as well as being in the exact spots >>>

The bandsaw released each of the strips >>>
The blanks >>>

 . . . and fitted >>>

and with the shrouds >>>

Two Burton pendants also hang from the topmast platform. I only just spotted them in Petersson's rigging book before I rigged the shrouds.
 
I don't know about anyone else, but I get a bit weary of all those brutal close-ups, so here's how Leopard looks right now >>>
B.T.W. ~  that's just a 'working cradle' that Leopard is sitting in for now!

I had to do some rework on the Forecastle deck which I already knew but now was the time to do it.
The running and lines of the frames were not good. After sanding I had so few thickness left I had to thicken the frames.
According to the drawings by Blom the top of the railing of the forecastle deck railing should be a straight line but I will kee a slight curve. 
 

Here below the portside has been done, the starboard side still needs to be done, which in the meantime has been done as well

The next step will be the planking up to what we call 'het rahout' .
 
And here I have a question. Both Blom and Monfeld mention in general terms about the scarfs/joints of the planks. But this is mainly below the wales.
I cannot find anything about the planking joints above the second wale.
 
Looking to Winter's photos you also cannot determine, although it looks like straight joints and this might be the more logical as the many interruptions by the gunports.
 
I think I will use straight/flat joints as it makes life easier..  Any comments/thoughts are welcome.....

 

 

Thank you guys for all comments and likes. I am very happy because number of followers reached 100.
To druxey: I have tried the metod of making ropes you describe, but the result was not good for me. If you unwind the thread and rewind it left handed before spinning resulting rope is not the same quality as the ropes without unwinding (my opinion). From this reason I decided to make the left handed ropes.
To cabrapente: I dont undestand the word " cabuyeria ", but all knots are fixed with diluted white PVA glue.
To Ryzuhr: Most information is taken form Anatomy of the ship PANDORA book. But this book does not include the all necessary information so I use the following books for addition:
James Lees - The masting and rigging of english ships of war
David Antscherl The fully framed model, rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1780
Klaus Schrage - Rundhloelzer, Tauwerk und Segel.
So and now some new pictures - installation of topsails. 

I thought it might be a good time to do some catching up. Hard to believe it's been 4 months since my last post.
 
In preparation for adding the lower platform clamps, I installed a beam recessed to fit around the inner post. I will use this to align one edge of the aft platform clamp

Only one side of the hull will be planked. The other side (open side) will only need two short clamps that represent the length of each platform both fore and aft. Measuring from the draught onto a balsa template made it easy to locate the lower platform position.

Here is the aft platform clamp installed after using the same method. Clamping was tricky.



I have actually made more progress than what is shown here. However, the lower platform clamp stills needs to be added on the planked side of the hull. I'm waiting for some deep reach clamps to arrive before I install it. This and more to come soon!
 
Mike

Hello Alberto,
thanks for the compliment and all others for the LIKES.
Here is a short update:

Hello,
in the meantime, I have made a lifting gear for the gig.
The historical picture is from the "Manuel du Gabier", which I took as a template.

Hello,
today a short update.
I hope the pictures speak for themselves.

Breats hooks and riders in place.

Continuation. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Pawel

For several minutes I created a small strategic supply!  Thank you, all raze could not begin to this task. The seam will not be visible after soldering.

And here is the result! Without claims on the standard... Material-steel wire after heating.( annealing's.)

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Pawel 

 

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Pawel 

Hello gentlemen and thank you for your encouragement !

Continuing work in the bottom of the hull ...

This remark, from another forum :
 

Hello gentlemen !

Following the mistake I made by positioning a black join - not to simulate a caulking - but to show that the barrels were composed of several pieces, I decided to start all over again.

So I trimmed my chopsticks, without the join this time :


Then I ordered copper roll (Petr - my new Czech friend - advised me) :

Back on the lathe, still using a rubber band allowing me to machine both sides of the barrels without damaging them :


Vérification :

Then the result on a serie :

The lids :

For the continuation of the work on these lids, here in pictures, how I proceeded, for those that it could interest :









Then comes the work of copper. I use gloves so as not to 'grease' and I cut small strips corresponding to the size of barrels :

The advantage of this copper roll is that it can be immersed in a liquid without altering the self-adhesive part :

For rinsing, I followed Petr's advice : "Bicarbonate de soude" dissolved in distilled water :

After drying, the copper strips are cut into thin lengths using a ruler and a scalpel, then it is patience :




Nothing complicated, but it's quite long.

In the end, I declined 6 series of barrels :

To obtain 88 barrels :

No more black joints, so it is more in line with reality, but we see less separations between the boards ... Question of choice !

They were the most "big" barrels. There will be others thereafter, but not for the moment : I'm starting to saturate!

See you later !

Patrick

Good morning

For size comparison.
Karl

Thanks you for your kind comments.
Ornaments on the side panels.
Karl
 
Part 25

 
 
 

Hello Friends.
 
Thanks to all for the kind comments.
Karl
 
 
Part 24
 



 
 
 

A beautiful model Siggi,
thanks for sharing these pics.....
Do you remember if those openings in the quater deck are cut-outs for viewing into the hull ?
 
Nils

CHEBECE 1750
Completion of the side parapet.
 
Karl
 
P a r t    23
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello Karl,
 
today I had been after a longer time again at the „Maritimes Museum Hamburg“ and there I found something you might be interested in. May be when you are ready with your Chebece and want to build the whole ship. This one is build from ivory! So, if your way cross that of an elephant, ask him for a teeth or two