Jeronimo

52 Frames provisionally aligned on the keel, not yet straightened.
I will build the remaining frames including the transom separately
and only then place them on the keel.
After all this fixed on the keel, I will first straighten ans sand the inside.
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Incredibly great work, Karl.

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
so, it is done! The head is ready. 😃
The painter has to fix some things, because the man from the admiralty would come and inspect the work. He was very pleased and spend a beer for the crew 😮 Yes one beer 😕
For the next days the crew had some days free and after that, they have to cut the deck beams for the fore castle.

Hello druxey
 
The frigate Mahonese, belongs to a series of 6 twin frigates of 34 cannons, built between 1789 and 1795 in the port of Mahon on the island of Menorca, had by name: “Mahonesa”, “Esmeralda”, “Diana”,” Venganza”,” Ninfa” and “Proserpina”
 
These frigates stood out, for their good characteristics in navigation and for the beauty of their lines, they were considered as the best that the Spanish Navy has had in the eighteenth century.
 
The whole series is known as the "Mahonesas", and this one is named Mahonesa because it was the first in the series, its real name was "La Santa Monica" alias "La Mahonesa".
 
The model of this frigate that had the Naval Museum of Madrid, has disappeared, but there is a good model of the frigate Diana, which is of the same series.
 

Adrian

It would be interesting to know how that hull form performed under various sea and wind conditions. Lovely work, Adrian!

We now see some works done inside the hold, opening of the hull and installation of the riders
 


 







 
 
Adrian

Thanks for the welcome
 
During the entire construction process of the frigate I combine the 2D plans with the 3D drawings made by the same author of the plans, which allows me to compare the results
 

 

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All that remains is to compare it with the 3D drawings of Fermín
 

 



 
Adrian

Hi I’m Adrian Sorolla, I haven’t participated in the forum for a long time
 
 
I’m building a 34-gun Spanish frigate, 1789, called "Mahonesa", I am building it on a 1/32 scale and for its realization I am following the plans drawn by Fermín Urtizberea.
 
Although its construction is already under way, but since there is still a lot of work ahead, I want to present it now in this fórum.
 
I’ll put an excerpt of photos from the previous construction, so you can get an idea of how it is.
 
 
 

 

 


 

 
 


 





Cordially
Adrian

@tlevine
 
Hi Toni,
thank you for your interest in my construction report and the appreciation of my work.
Many thanks also to the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continued: Equipment of the yards
As announced in the last part of my construction report, I equip the larger yards with real discs. As before, I make these discs out of brass and blue them. As far as I know, these discs were usually made of lignum vitae. The rather dark brown coloring of this wood can be easily imitated with a blue finish.
For the main yard and the fore yard, the sheaves have a diameter of 2.9 mm. The main topsail yard, fore topsail yard and mizzen yard are fitted with sheaves with a diameter of 2.0 mm.
With the following series of pictures I would like to illustrate how I make the sheaves. Since my turning skills are limited and with these small diameters, I made the circular groove with a jeweller's saw. The fine saw blade I use for this has a thickness of 0.15 mm. I can control the width of the groove. The more inclined I lead the saw blade, the wider the groove. As a rule, the groove has a width of around 0.2 mm.

 
After cutting the sheaves, I grind them to the required thickness according to the size of the protrusion for the sheaves, i. H. about ø 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm. For grinding, I made myself an aid, the tip of which engages in the axle hole and thus enables the sheaves to be guided more or less evenly for grinding.


 
 
The axle bores of the sheaves were made with ø 0.8 mm larger than the axle diameter ø 0.4 mm itself. This makes the installation of the sheaves much easier and also compensates for small inaccuracies.

 
The next pictures should give an impression of the installation of the sheaves. As can be seen in the second picture, the axle holes are not exactly opposite. This is due to the fact that I have to drill the ø 0.4 mm holes for the axles from each side. If you try to drill these holes in one go from one side, it can easily happen that the hole on the other side does not arrive in the middle due to the thin drill and other inaccuracies. This is then much more disturbing than the axis points that are not exactly opposite, which is no longer noticeable after the shortening anyway.


After shortening the axles, the ends are filed clean with a micro file and blued. The filing creates a small burr, which usually makes it no longer necessary to glue the axles.
The last picture shows the finished yardarms of the fore yard, main topsail yard and mizzen yard.

 
It then continues with the stunsail boom irons. There are still a few open points to be clarified, as always... 😊
Sequel follows …

@AJohnson
@jfhealey
@hollowneck
 
Hello,
Thanks for the positive comments, also for the many LIKES.
That motivates even more.
 
 
Equipping the yards
In the meantime, I have started to fit the ends of the yards with sheaves, over which the sheets and reef tackles are then passed.
In the lower and topsail yards, the holes for sheave were made with the 0.8 mm and 0.6 mm milling cutter, with the exception of the mizzen topsail yard. Brass turned sheaves will be installed there later.
For the topgallant and royal yards with the mizzen topsail yard, the sheaves are only suggested due to the size. The following pictures show the individual processing steps.
 
1. drill holes with 0.5 mm

2. finishing with 0.5 mm wood hollow chisel

3. rounding out with 0.5 mm shank drill bit


The last picture shows the yard arms of the main topsail, fore topsail and mizzen topsail yard.


I think that the "fake" sheaves in the mizzen topsail yard are reasonably convincing. I have also used the same method on many blocks.
See you soon ...
 

Very good start Karl. To be continued.

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What works for me in these situations is to tack the two delicate pieces together or tack the assembly to a ply base using pinpoint drops of yellow glue. It only takes a couple of minute drops to tack the pieces together (like tack welding) and they are easily separated with isopropyl alcohol when finished.

Greg's and druxey's gluing ideas worked well. Tiny drops of carpenter's glue between the piece and a sheet of plywood held everything firmly enough to sand fair on three sides. Isopropyl removed it from the ply, and as the British say, "Bob's your uncle!"
 
Good trick for refining small delicate parts.
 
Glued together on the hull, still not fully faired to each other:

then glued down on plywood:
 

 
Faired, and pinned back on the hull:
 
 

This piece reminds me of the great quote on Remco's HMS Kingfisher site: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Mark
 
 

Waiting for the glue to dry on the port upper cheek assembly, I looked more carefully at the area around the figurehead, double checking on the heights for clearance for the bowsprit, and also where the rigging will begin to fasten. Better to catch problems now, as parts are beginning to fall into place. I redrew the Bellona figurehead, with more detail that might begin to lead into the carving--at the very least, a blank to make sure everything fits.
 
And, I did discover a mistake from 25 years ago. I marked and cut the slot for the gammoning in the keel when I first started construction. Now I see that I thought was the fore end was actually the aft end of the slot. So it is exactly its own distance back from where it ought to be!
It will take some fine work to fill the slot and cut a new one. Don't tell anyone!
 
Here is an updated drawings with the new Bellona figurehead, and the beginnings of rigging at the bow:
 
 

 
 
 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl