Jeronimo

Hello Doris.
Pictures of Ivan Trtanj and Royal Caroline.
Regards Karl

Hello Doris.
Enter Google Search    Ivan  Trtanj
Results of the best  model ship builder in Germany with many models,
including the Royal Caroline.
I know Ivan Trtanj personally, very nice Person and open to question on shipbuilding.
Regards Karl
 
 
Sorry, Google-Translation

📣   Hello, I'm back!
The two knees, who support the cat head, are ready in raw. The final form come when all is assembled. 

 
 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuation: Making the yards - Topgallant yards - Vergue de perroquet
After the topsail yards, we continued with the making of the topgallant yards. 
Here is a quick look at my workplace with the most important utensils for making the yards:

 
The diameters of the topgallant yards, especially in the outer sections, range around 1.6 mm. In this respect, it is not surprising, if you work without a steady rest, that it can sometimes come to breakage. 

 
At the latest when working on the yardarms, it is advisable to support the filigree yards with a steady rest.


The next picture shows the finishing of the octagon in the center of the yard.

 
The last picture should give an impression of how filigree the topgallant yards are compared to the lower yards. It shows the yardarms of the main yard compared to the mizzen topgallant yard. The octagon of the yardarm of the mizzen topgallant yard still has a width of 1.3 mm at the outer end.

 
Of course, the royal yards can be made even thinner and more filigree. Especially the octagonal shaping at the yardarms requires special care.  
To be continued ...
 

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

They are not that difficult to make. . Wet the wood and bend them together or separately while clamped around a curved shape similar to that of the hull. A large can or plastic container works fine. I sometimes use a round table edge like the scroll saw table. The bend always allows for some spring back. Hot heat dry with a hair dryer for a few minutes, and then let everything cool completely. I always make these pieces longer than needed to allow for clamping. Once the spring back is reduced substantially it should be easy enough to shape and clamp them to the hull.
 
Anyway, that's how I made mine on the Winnie.
 
Mike

On to the piece between the cheeks--I don't know what it is named--that forms a broad surface through which the hawse holes are cut.
This is an interesting piece, because it appears to be in two layers, one longer than the other. The layer closest to the hull has a single elliptical edge (between the ends of the cheeks below), while the layer on top of it has an elliptical edge with vertical segments to the cheeks (the double curves between the end and the hawse holes). Maybe it is actually one piece with this step carved into it, but I am treating it as two layers for constructional ease.

I am pondering how to curve these two layered pieces to the curve of the hull. I have tried cold clamping a rough blank of one layer (below), to see how much springback there is, and it is a fair amount. Not sure I should trust glue alone to hold this permanently.
 

So, do I try steaming these thin pieces, and clamping to the hull to dry? Or maybe glue them together as a lamination, and clamping that to the hull to dry?
Does anyone have experience with this piece?
 
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
A long, long time since I last posted. I have been working away, but the recent pieces took an exceptionally long time to work out, and there was not a lot to show in the process.
 
I realized some time ago that I would not be able to install the guns on the lower deck until I completed the outboard works, since I would not be able to turn the hull on its side for painting once the gun barrels were projecting from the side.
 
So I was planking up to the top, when I further realized that I would need to install the catheads before completing the planking at the fore end of the forecastle. And those turned out to be way, way more difficult than I had imagined.
 
I first carefully drew true size projections of the catheads in plan and elevation:
 

 
When I cut them from blanks, I assumed I could just cut straight down according to the drawn plan. Wrong! The cat tails inboard are not only shaped athwartship according to the forecastle beam round up, but also beveled fore and aft according to the sheer of the deck. But the catheads outboard are beveled according to the sheer of the hull, which is steeper. This means the cathead twists as it passes through the hull relative to its tail. I went through a number of failures before I figured this out.
 

Before I could cut the hook scarps on the tails and cut the slot into the hull on the sides, I needed to locate the cat beam underneath. Then I realized that I would need to locate the beakhead bulkhead stantions since they score onto this beam and have to align with the vertical edge of the hull in this location. But in order to install the beakhead stantions, I would need to build the substructure  for the beakhead just above the gundeck level, which meant that I had to drill the hawseholes before access is covered up here, and that meant I had to complete the cheeks outboard.
 

 
So, then onto cheeks. These also had a much more complicated geometry than I had first appreciated. They have a round-up athwartships to match the sheer of the main wales at the bow; they fay to the wales with a curve and also a slope back along the face; and they have an upward slant fore and aft to match the hull sheer. As I tried to fay these to the wales, the slightest change in holding them against the wale would change the shape needed. So I made supports at the correct angle and kept the lower edge flat, so I could reliably slide the cheek against the wale for the usual trim, test, trim, to fay it accurately. Then I could shape the lower edge of the fore and aft arm to its final form.
 

And voila, lower cheeks:
 

I don't know why this took me so long to work out these two interesting pieces, the catheads and cheeks. Perhaps because they are so prominent I took my time to get it right....
Now onto the upper cheeks and the hawse holes and bolsters.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe the compass question can still be solved,
in the meantime things will continue with the yards:
 
Continued: Making the yards - main topsail yard - Vergue de grand hunier
For long enough I evaded the decision to execute the yardarms of the main topsail yard. Further research on this did not bring any new findings.
Now that the holidays are over and with renewed vigor in the new year, I have decided on the following embodiment of the yardarms of the topsail yards, as already signaled in one of the last posts:

So now we can continue with the production of the yards.
Sequel follows …

Very good job, nice color.

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bow, scale 1/48
Cant Frames mounted on frame 1.
Thank you very much for the comments,
please keep it up, criticism is also welcome and helps me.
 
Greetings
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hallo.
Die einzelnen Teile der Spanten mit der Dekupiersäge ausgeschnitten,
Zusammenbau und mit Rundschleifer in die endgültige Form geschliffen.
Karl
 

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hallo,
einige Unregelmäßigkeiten bei dem Bau der Spanten, (mein Fehler) und zu spät bemerkt,
der doch etwas kleine Maßstab 1/60,
haben mich veranlasst den Bau im Maßstab 1/48 zu machen.
Karl
 
(Entschuldigung für die Erklärung in Deutsch)
 
 

Hallo.
Die einzelnen Teile der Spanten mit der Dekupiersäge ausgeschnitten,
Zusammenbau und mit Rundschleifer in die endgültige Form geschliffen.
Karl
 

Hello.
 
I have found some problems and errors in the construction of the model.
It does not affect the whole structure, but it bothers me a lot and is annoying.
I took a creative break and I decided to make a completely new start.
This time in 1/48 scale.
 
Ich habe einige Probleme und Fehler bei dem Bau des Modells gefunden.
Es betrifft nicht die ganze Struktur, aber es stört mich schon gewaltig und ist ärgerlich.
Ich machte eine schöpferische Pause und entschied mich dann für einen kompletten Neuanfang.
Diesmal im Maßstab 1/48.
 
Karl