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Some Idea

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Everything posted by Some Idea

  1. Noel thanks for the tip on the vice I think I may order one of those as they do look like a good piece of kit. Unfortunately I must confess to not being a yam yam. Although I have lived in the Black Country for 30 years I am in fact a Londoner - although my neighbours consider me to be local now!! marsalv - I thought that your vice may have been modified for more usefulness. Can I please also ask what type of cutters are you using in your mill. They look like router bits with a slim shank. I must also say that your ropes look extremely realistic which will sit very nicely with your amazing build
  2. Your work is just simply stunning and very inspiring too. Can I ask about the vice you use on your mill? I see that it tilts which is a very useful thing to have. Did you purchase it as a tilting vice or have you modified an existing vice. The reason I ask is because I could do with one just like it.
  3. Hi - I use a Paashe Talon TG and its the best airbrush I've ever used. It comes with 3 different needle sizes and the largest also has a fan cap for big jobs. Its a double action brush which has very precise control and quite a large paint cup too. Its also very quick and easy to clean after use and for a brush that can do from the finest pattern to a wide fan of paint I would recommend it as a very good all round airbrush.
  4. I agree with Kurt - I use Vallejo acrylics and they are great. The pigment in them is very fine and there's loads of it so the coverage is very good. Just add a few drops of flow improver which is also sold by them and you won't get a dry tip on your airbrush either
  5. Boxwood in the UK and they are a very good supplier http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/
  6. Hi Blue Ocean - If you need Aluminium soldering I've not yet seen a decent solution. I'm an ex coded welder and if I needed Ali joining I'd pop into my local welders and ask them to TIG weld it for me. It takes them seconds to do our sort of job and my local shop would do it for the price of a pint of beer.
  7. I guess so but what I meant was I just use a 3/8 spanner on the shaft flats and hold it to undo the blade locking nut. Easy peasy 👍
  8. That’s ingenious but why not just shove a 3/8 spanner on it? That’s what I do.
  9. Your right it is rubbing alcohol and this is what I use to thin my epoxy resin and also clean my tools with. I’ve been using it for years but anything more than a 10% dilution just doesn’t seem to work well for me. I buy a litre of IPA which is 99% pure if that’s the correct term for about £5
  10. Just realised I should have included a picture of the cloth with the resin applied before it was trimmed otherwise it doesn’t make sense - sorry. The resin has just been applied and is wet.
  11. It’s called IPA in the UK and is very cheap on eBay.
  12. I use 49g fibre cloth and finishing epoxy resin. The cloth really does make all the difference for a smooth long lasting finish. It takes 3 coats of resin to get an immaculate finish. The first just coats the hull. The second is used to apply the cloth and the third fills the weave of the cloth. Here’s a few pictures of what I’m working on at the moment. It hasn’t had its last coat yet but it’s coming out ok. The best results I’ve had is applying the resin using a 1” roller and using thin coats. The last two pictures are of the second coat dried and the excess cloth removed. I hope this helps you
  13. I agree with all of the above. The micrometer adjustment is what this saw was built for. The sled makes the job really easy and very safe too. Just double up on your blades as they are not that expensive and you’ll go through a few except for the carbide blades. These seem to stay sharp for a very long time.
  14. Yep I use my table saw every week and I use my thickness sander about the same too. Derek you will not be disappointed
  15. Sorry I clicked on the wrong quote - its an age thing! Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  16. Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  17. These sanders are great. We get them here in the UK from the Lidl supermarket for £29.99. Great value!
  18. The only thing that the manufacturer reckons this tool won't cut through is bull sh*t - if you've got £400 quid to buy one of these you seriously need help or medication. I've loved this thread its made me laugh so much can't wait for the next one like this
  19. Seriously how can a glue dispenser that costs £28 be any good what so ever for the every day modeller. Do you know how much glue I could buy for that much money. Enough to build two complete ships and a lot of brushes to spread the glue too. Come on I understand that we should embrace technology but thats like buying an atomic clock. Its good but so is my £1 Casio and isn't an improvement in real life.
  20. Ha ha Kurt that is cruel - but oh so true. The really do peddle expensive c**p. Please feel free to insert your own vowels and consternates to create the word crap
  21. I just watched the video on their website and just burst out laughing!!!! I really like the way the guy is suddenly wearing glasses when using their tool like it makes him smarter for using it. He also starts smiling so it probably gave him wind too. Any tool that comes in blue for men and pink for women - well enough said. So in my opinion its an over priced tool that you just do not need. Buy a decent knife - in fact for that money you could buy many decent knives!
  22. Some good advice there but can I add that when I do this type of work I hold the piece in a very small vee block. It holds the brass very centrally and makes the job that little bit easier. I also use cobalt tipped drills when drilling brass. They go through without any bother even when the brass is hard.
  23. If I see any more I'll post it on here I've been cutting some planks on mine today and every time I use it I just get a huge smile on my face. Its so accurate and a pleasure to use. I wish Jim would build a spindle sander - I'd buy it in a heart beat!
  24. Try Cornwall model boats they do it https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Stripwood.html
  25. Kurt you are right silver soldering is really easy as long as you keep it spotlessly clean. Also when you clean the joint do not use any kind of sandpaper or emery paper as this will contaminate the surface. Always use wire wool and you'll get a really clean surface. To save loads of hassle try using a silver solder like this https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp It comes in a syringe and has the flux already built in. You just clean the joint and then apply a little paste and get it really hot. You will know when the joint is hot enough because the solder suddenly looks like very shiny molten silver. I've seen a lot of unsoldered joints simply because the heat was taken away too soon and the solder did not flow. Just practice on some old bits of brass and you'll get there and wonder what the fuss was all about.
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