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Everything posted by Some Idea
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Hi All Could someone please recommend a good glue that I can purchase in the UK for fixing my paper templates to the wood for cutting out and shaping? I would imagine that the templates will be in place for quite a while but I don't want to do damage to the wood underneath when I remove them. Thanks for you help Mark
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Hi George - The build looks great. For stantions I used billings own 3 hole brass ones that can be purchased from Cornwall Model Boats if that helps. Here's a link to nearly 700 photo's of my build just in case it helps you. https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/album/bXv Mark
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WOW ......................WOW............Your work is just beautiful. I just find this build so inspiring - fantastic work.
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Silver soldering
Some Idea replied to Dziadeczek's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I helped a friend who was struggling using silver solder. His problem turned out to be he was cleaning the joints using sand paper which was contaminating the joint. A quick swap to wire wool and the problem was solved. -
Hi Bob I have to say that I've used the miniature block plane to finish off just about all of the planks on my current build. I use this and a Lie Nielson violin makers plane and although the latter can remove more in one pass I would say that they are equal in capability on my builds. It's a great little plane that genuinely does the job in both removing excess material and cutting bevels. I have sharpened it twice in 3 years and it hasn't let me down or shown any signs of wear either Mark
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Hi James if you don't use these suppliers give them a try. I've just had 8 planks for Castello delivered for a very reasonable price - and they cut them to the thickness that I wanted rather than what was advertised on their website. They also ran them all through a jointer for me so that I have good edges for my table saw at no extra cost. I agree that actually the ebony you get is a good price - but it would take me two lifetimes to use that much of it so that makes it prohibitive for me.
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My wood suppler sells ebony https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/african-black-ebony-sawn-board-no-5.html £200 for one small plank of it. The dust from ebony is also quite toxic too. If I was in a club where 3 or 4 of us needed some it would be worth it but not for me at this price. I'll leave it to the guitar builders as lovely as it is. I too would either dye or paint the wood.
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Just beautiful work I am truly amazed. It looks like you have two mills now too or have you upgraded your proxxon mill? I like mine but find the indexing is not that accurate.
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I buy all of my blades from Model Machines I just tend to order quite a few at a time because its expensive to import into the UK. My view is if I buy from the original supplier it keeps them in business. I have too many friends who buy cheaper from China and then wonder why their favourite model supplier has gone out of business. I had a load of blades from Jim about 6 months ago and they will keep me going for the next year
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I currently use a Paashe Talon 3.......the best airbrush I've ever owned. It's a double action with an internal mix. But the best bit is.....its easy to use, comes with 3 different size needles including a fan cap for big jobs but its also so easy to clean. Great bit of kit for the money.
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Kurt this is spot on - I should have said this in my post. If you tip the saw so that the fence is parallel with the floor it makes the job so much easier. When I first used my tilting table I did struggle a bit as it does take some getting used too. But when you get it sussed what a great addition to the saw. My advise to anyone using this attachment is to have a good play with it until you are happy with your use of it. Once sorted you won't look back as any angle is achievable with a clean cut that can be repeated as many times as you like.
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Mill Speed to Avoid Chipping
Some Idea replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Pete you are right - but the main reason that I use sacrificial backing though is to stop the cutter making contact with the machine slide bed -
Removing Laser Burn?
Some Idea replied to Shaft's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If the part is a tricky shape a red scotch bright pad works well to remove the char -
Hi Jaager Thanks very much for the information it really has helped. I think you are right about the timber being a bit wet but I'm learning as I go. I think when I order my next batch of wood from my supplier I'll pick up the phone and have a good chat with them regarding my needs rather than just ordering online. Thanks again - Mark
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Hi Charles and Jaager Thanks for your replies they have been quite insightful for me. Firstly saving the wood that I have seems to be working using the technique as described above. I'll find out for definite tomorrow but so far things look ok. I've also looked at the end grain and yes it does look like they were cut by flat sawing. If I look very hard I can also see how the grain was affected the wood too. I think one of the biggest mistakes that I have been making is stacking all of my wood in one block with no ventilation between them and also different lengths so some are not supported at the ends at all. I like the idea of using boxes too. This does seem a bit counter intuitive thought as surely the wood gets no ventilation when inside the box? I have plenty of room to store the wood and the humidity in the room doesn't really change that much. It's a new home with all of the best insulation and triple glazing so the temperature and humidity is quite constant. If you could give me a steer on my understanding of using boxes that would be great Mark
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Hi I hope that this has not been covered before and if it has I apologise. I have seen quite a lot of information regarding the storing of rough cut wood that needs to dry over a period of time, but how do you store you cut and planed wood. I'm talking about thin planks that are maybe 6mm thick, 150mm wide and 1000mm long? The reason I ask is because I have a couple of boxwood planks of this size that I have simply put on the top of a flat cupboard directly on top of each other. I got them down today and they have warped across their width? Should I have separated them with some battons or something like this? The room is well ventilated and just like the rest of our home remains quite a constant temperature. Your thoughts would be very welcome as I was just about to buy quite a lot of timber just like this for my next build. I need it to stay in good straight condition for a period of time and don't want to waste my hard earned money through a lack of understanding. Mark
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Kevin that really is a lovely build - a fantastic job and I agree the case really shows off your work.
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I've started looking at the Vcarve tutorials on YouTube as this is probably the way forward for me. I have a huge learning curve so I'll see where it goes. Keep the pictures coming marsaly as they are amazing!
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I fully agree with this - The level of carvings that can be achieved by CNC is astounding. Although I do not have the required IT skills to do this sort of thing I would happily pay someone to do it for me. I tried carving a figurehead and it turned out looking like a bad zombie holding a skateboard. There is no way my carving skills would end up on a ship.
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That really is such clean and precise carving - I have to ask how you did it? I wish I could achieve such a nice crisp finish
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