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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Actually, I discovered just now that it has already sold. Sorry about that. 400,000 pounds sterling.
  2. Well, if you would like an early Christmas present and you have deep pockets, this is for you!
  3. Slightly off-topic: wefalck; there are a number of Unimat thread chasers and patterns currently listed on eBay. It is surprising how many 'NOS' items pop up there, as well as used.
  4. I would normally never dare to contradict wefalck, but the 'old' Unimat DB/SL had a (metric) thread-cutting attachment (no. 1270) available years ago. Examples are still available, for a price, on the second hand market.
  5. Whew! Quite the exchange of ideas and views, to which I can add but little. All I can say is that there are several contemporary models in frame that should also be seriously considered.
  6. Well, there have been many good points raised. The most pertinent being what is the range of items you want to make on this hypothetical lathe? If it's only occasional small parts of medium precision, an old original Unimat will so the trick nicely. Mine is from the early '70's before they went to plastic parts. High precision small parts? A well-kept used watchmakers' lathe. A Boley or Levin are good - I've used both. However, items like collets can run up the cost quickly. Serious model engineering? Sherline. Julie: those 19th century inventors and engineers are a fascinating study in themselves. Brunel Senior's block-making machines, for a start.
  7. A clenched bolt, under planking, would be very awkward to replace easily. Perhaps the idea of a 'heavy wood thread' is confusing this with a ragged bolt. This was more permanent, with arrow-like projections along the shaft that allowed easy driving, but prevented the bolt from being withdrawn again. Until relatively recent times - the early to mid 19th century - threaded bolts were hard to manufacture.
  8. The burnisher needs to be pressed down hard as you run it along the scraper and at a slight angle, Mike. This raises the burr.
  9. Sometimes a squirrel wife is very useful! (I have one of my own.)
  10. The latter, alas. Many drawings in the AOTS series are unreliable. For a comparable ship's framing structure, look at this: There are no dramatic shifted or cast timbers at all! And there are no large gaps between toptimbers either. Whenever possible, look at primary sources - they are far more reliable. The RMG web site has a wealth of visual information. Sorry to pour cold water on things.
  11. Through bolts, forelocked, were used for ease of replacement of damaged ones. The same was true of chain bolts, where the forelocked ends were on the inboard sides. Victory has been through so many repairs and replacements in a very long life that this feature was lost somewhere along the way after her active service.
  12. It is an interesting example of old world craftsmanship using hand tools being replaced by new world craftsmanship using CAD/CAM.
  13. No matter how long we've been at it, there is always room for improvement. Often progression is not linear. So, if there is a setback, don't be discouraged. You are still on the learning curve, as are all of us.
  14. Very nice work, but that large framing gap under gun port 3 seems odd.
  15. Lovely work, as usual! The brickwork is very convincing. Why did you opt not to use a Brodie stove, as these were pretty standard by this time. Do you have evidence to show the old style stove fitted? Or is it simply personal choice?
  16. Those furled sails look very convincing. But why is the deckhand rolling around on the deck?
  17. I always enjoy a more unusual subject! Wildmanden certainly shows nice lines. One curious point: the line of the wale looks to be conventional on the draught, but the last photo of the model appears to show this rising aft in a very odd fashion.
  18. Nicely constructed, Mark. Will they be spattered with paint and antifouling?
  19. Congratulations on getting to this stage of the model and on your marriage!
  20. Nice analysis of the problems involved, Mark. Years ago, before the wonders of laser cutting, I had the same issues with the balcony on Polyphemus. I had to resort to using polystyrene sheet, drilled and scalpel blade cut. At least the rail was solid behind the fretwork! However, the ribbonwork was dimensional as well. I remember a lot of card and paper pattern cutting! Your work on this area so far is exemplary.
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