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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Bowlines (literally 'bow lines') normally lead forward, at least in English practice. The line for the fore course leads forward to a block hooked to the aft side of the bowsprit cap, then aft to belay at the forecastle. The main course bowline also leads forward. The English belayed it at the fore topsail sheet bitts forward of the fore mast. In your diagram it appears to belay inside the bow bulwark, presumably on a pinrail. Hopefully this is of some help! -
It's more realistic to omit them on a deck, especially at scale. There was a time when modelmakers used to treenail all their decks (about 20 to 50 years ago) and it became a fashion that has been followed to this day. (I was guilty of this with my early models!)
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Actually, there are nails securing the planking to the beams, and those are wood plugs over the nail heads, not treenails.
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A really good step forward!
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Bower anchor project by Sizzolo
druxey replied to Sizzolo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I agree that the worming looks a little thick. -
Use thread instead of tape.
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Bower anchor project by Sizzolo
druxey replied to Sizzolo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The gap in the stock was for drainage as an air gap - not for shrinkage. Looks good. -
I go away for a month and you've completed the model, Ab? Well played, sir! Interesting reading your comments on gold leaf vs gold paint. I recently had the same issue and felt that real leaf was too reflective and gaudy. Also, the detail was lost. However, the client insisted that the dolphin stands be gilded. Bling!
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You never take the easy route, do you? Seriously, a full recovery to both of you, and soon.
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A lot of progress in the month I've been away. Very nice, Chris.
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Lovely micro-milling and drilling work. I'm smiling! Great progress in the month I've been away, wefalck.
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No matter how good the plans or offsets, it is wise to completely re-draught before you begin. An important step to take to 'prove' a hull fair is by proof diagonals, which you can think of as angled waterlines. These diagonals, when projected on the half breadth, should always form convex lines. If there is a wobble or inflexion in them, it shows where you need to adjust sections andwaterlines. If a proof diagonal falls outside the half breadth amidships, it does not mean you have made an error! The distance along a diagonal is greater than across a waterline.
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Nice talk, m'Lord! Thank you for posting this.
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Just catching up after a month away; great progress, CRI-CRI.
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Planking problems
druxey replied to Mrgj24's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Please read the 'pinned' articles on planking: More> Modeling techniques > Planking. These will explain everything for you. -
Too bad you didn't use line from Ropes of Scale or similar - no fuzz on those. Would you consider upgrading? The rest of the model deserves it!
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Doesn't this make you marvel at how this was done full size in the shipyard?
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Also catching up on your excellent progress after a month away!
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What about a laminated piece here? Allow a little 'meat' for finessing the joints. You could make a base lamination the full width of the wale, then pattern and cut the (thinner and easier to bend) outer layer pieces....
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Tedious work, yes; but safer to fair as Pirate Adam suggests.
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L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
The more-or-less square door in post #117 looks as if it can open unimpeded. This seems realistic. -
Lots of variations on the theme! Pick yours....
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Huh? I just put in the same search and got 28 hits. See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Planking expansion#!cbrowse Try the link. The 24' 0" figure was from Goodwin, which I take to be average. This might vary slightly, depending on frame spacing, of course. That would dictate actual lengths.
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