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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well, that looks more plausible, but are the lengths 24' 0" ? They look a bit short. The other little item to observe is the lowest plank aft in the lower strake. It is a short piece (if you've arranged everything else correctly) as it was cut to shape and fitted rather than bent. The piece curls as well as curves around to the outer end of the wing transom. Check the RMG web site and search 'planking expansion' for examples. -
Qui savez, Marc? As master shipwright - it's your decision.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Before you go wild, be aware that there are no short pieces at the stem! the last of the longer ones become parallel before hooding into the stem rabbet, See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79816?_gl=1*9ishb2*_up*MQ..*_ga*NDcyMDk2MDY0LjE3NTcxMDI0Mzg.*_ga_7JJ3J5DBF6*czE3NTcxMDI0MzgkbzEkZzEkdDE3NTcxMDI0OTUkajMkbDAkaDA.*_ga_4MH5VEZTEK*czE3NTcxMDI0MzgkbzEkZzEkdDE3NTcxMDI0OTUkajMkbDAkaDA.
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Looking good, Clare!
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Exactly Chris: A smooth transition without any angle for the planks to seat against.
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Well, well, Some Idea! Lovely joinery - especially those dovetail joints. What kind of drawing mentorship are you looking for? You seem to be doing quite well already.
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JKC27 - If you can stand driving and parking in Toronto, you won't regret the visit!
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Card patterns for knees will help enormously. As for beam arms. shape the plan view first from slightly over-thick stock, then sand to the round up using custom convex and concave sanding blocks.
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If you are trying to put a burr on a scraper, hold the scraper in a vise. Run the burnisher along at a slight angle, pressing hard, to turn the burr edge. Takes a few tries to master this, but you will get it! I've only just found this thread and you are doing a great job, Jacques. It's too bad that the plan set lacks some important detail, but you seem to be overcoming the problems well.
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Beautifully done, as usual!
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Peripheral to the design aspect of this treatise, it is interesting to note that, with the extreme tumblehome, more compass timber could be utilised in the toptimbers, and that less would be needed for the upper deck hanging knees. Is there any information as to why the keel and false keel cross-section was shaped in a curved taper?
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In post #8, Table of Division, should the fifth column heading read 1/1000, not 1/10000?
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Definitely a disruptive scheme!
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Apparently raising the ships was considered, but the cost and logistics too prohibitive. As you say, the wrecks are now covered and encrusted by zebra mussels....
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Ah, those school years for the children! Later, you will be surprised at how quickly the time went by.
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If the paper 'grout' (caulking!) were to be added to the penultimate planks before installing them, then the last plank can be carefully sanded to fit as I described. I would be reluctant to mess with installed planks. If I slipped while modifying them, then I'd have to remove and replace them. It would be a mess!
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If I understand your problem correctly, I would use a sanding surface. Rubber cement the paper to a flat surface. You can then gently sand the plank edge, holding it at a slight angle to produce a subtle wedge-like cross section. Test fit until the plank almost seats all the way into the space it needs to occupy. Then you can glue and press it all the way home for a tight fit.
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Worst Planking Job Ever
druxey replied to rhephner's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It is obvious that you are now on to the process. From here it's simply a matter of refining your skills on the next model. Well done for not giving up! -
Sorry about the slip - one reason to not use power tools as they can so easily 'eat' one's work. If it's any consolation, I'm sure that real ships were not always 100% symmetrical.
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There is the video mentioned and also tutorials on this site: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Planking primer.pdf http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/NailPatternJig.pdf http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingfan.pdf
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Late arriving to this party. That is lovely work, Paul!
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I'm sure that the enterprising model-maker can add the names by hand. It would certainly look more authentic! Unlike the photos (post #70), ship-based trucks would not have had iron tyres/tires! Only land-based guns were so shod. Metal would have quickly wrecked the decks.
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Very nice, Dafi. However, the guns I've seen that were fitted with locks had their mounting holes offset on the right edge of the pan (the rectangular raised area that the vent hole was bored through) as seen from the breech end. The gunlock was mounted there with two thumbscrews. Early gunlocks were experimented with in the late 1720's by the French and were in general use by the British by the late 1780's (Caruana).
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The slipway at Bucklers Hard has been archaeologically excavated and an article on BBC News posted: https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c0qll3j0evyo
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