MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Good recovery! -
Well done, Giampiero. It's a tricky one to do, fitting it around the headwork and under the bowsprit. I wonder how long the original figure lasted at sea without damage!
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Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
druxey replied to OldeManToad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
With all due respect, I would use epoxy for metal/wood or metal/metal joints (if not soldering), rather than CA. -
Good progress, Chris!
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Everything old is new again! I've been using a ruling pen for years with acrylic paint. It take a little experimentation to get the dilution 'just so', and, as Hank suggests, keep the support off the work to prevent bleed-under.
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With lack of any other evidence, you'd be safe to go with a standard lion. Wait - wasn't there the story of Androcles drawing a thorn from a lion's paw?
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Don't forget Unicorn or the Great Britain! But it's an uphill battle to maintain maritime heritage.
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Those wedge-shaped fashion pieces are nasty beasts to tame! Well done.
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I echo Greg's sentiments, Ab. It's tough losing folk one cares about. That is a lovely model indeed. For 'English' rigging, the Van de Velde paintings and drawings are very helpful. The one contemporary yacht model in the NMM has modern rigging that isn't quite right.
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I should have specified 'half an Icarus'. My bad!
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What a delightful subject. Will you be setting the model into a sea? If so, will you add Icarus?
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Congrats on completing a very nice model.
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
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All I can add is that primary, contemporary evidence is the best thing, short of the wayback machine.
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Best wishes as you plan the relaunch of a valuable resource in contemporary form.
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Just catching up; a fascinating discussion, gentlemen!
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Huh? These 2 mm Syren blocks are not doughnuts/donuts! https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/boxwood-rigging-blocks.php
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Superb. That's all one can say.
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Of course, there is no single 'right' way'. Some of us prefer power carvers, some hand tools. My preference is the latter, as I never was able to achieve as much control with a rotary tool at small scale, unlike others. The other point I'd like to make is the polished surfaces and sharp inner corners made by an edge tool a power bit can't achieve. But, each to his or her own.
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Here's a thread on the subject from six years ago:
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As Clare pointed out, the model in Davis' book is NOT the Lexington. However, I've had a soft spot for this book ever since, aged about ten, I found a copy in my local library!
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Did I ruin my brush?
druxey replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If it's real sable it will be a very expensive brush! However, properly looked after, it will last decades. Some of my brushes lasted for many years, so the initial cost amortised over time was far better than a cheapo brush. The performance of a real Kolinsky sable brush, if you've never used one, is a revelation. -
Same principles, but formed over a curved surface and 'fixed' with acrylic matt medium.
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