druxey

With the exterior hull planking complete, the next challenge was carving the bulwark interior surfaces. Carving was done with sharp gouges, sanding sticks, and an electronic thickness guage.
 
Note that in installing the exterior counter planking, two coats of wood glue was used to ensure the glue had an opportunity to soak into the the end grain of the counter. This created a strong ply type structure that could withstand the strain of carving out the bulwarks' interior.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next steps include laying out and fitting exterior hull planking.  Planking butts were laid in the normal pattern using the table illustrated below.  Due to their shape, the bulwark counter planks were templated with a sheet of clear mylar.  Planking material included: (a) 3/64" x 1/8" hull planking; ( 3/64 double bead plankshear; and, © 1/32" x 3/32" bulwark planking.  Planks tapered at the bow and stern, but with the exception of the counter plank shapes were not extreme.  The plankshear was fitted at this time but will be glued in place after painting in order to establish a clear color break.
 
As the hull will be coppered, hull planking started approximately 1/8" below the waterline.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thanks for your interest in "Newsboy".
 
The principal component used from the original kit was the carved hull.  After surveying, the hull was carved in the inverted position using a building board and art board templates.  The hull block was positioned with the waterline level, parallel to the building board, and with stations vertical.  Shaping was accomplished using sharp gouges, chissels, and firm sanding sticks for fairing.  As the hull will be overplanked, the hull was finished using 180 grit sandpaper.
 
After the hull was carved to the outer hull lines, the upper hull from 1/8" below the waterline to the cap rail was recessed 3/64" for hull and bulwark planking.  Following completion of hull shaping; the stem, keel, and stern post were fitted.  Additionally, the rudder was fitted (to be installed later) and the pedestal holes drilled at this time.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

The brigantine Newsboy was designed by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsea, MA (designer of the very successful pilot schooners Dancing Feather, Hesper, and Phantom) for owners Dabney & Cunningham of Boston.  Newsboy was built at the Joshua C. Adams and Elisha Brown shipyard in Owl’s Head, ME where she was launched in June, 1854.  She had a length of 111 feet, beam of 27 feet, depth of 12 feet, and tonnage of 290 tons.  While described as a brigantine, the rig is more accurately described as a hermaphrodite brig because there were no square sails on the main mast.
 
The Newsboy was engaged in the triangular trade: carrying lumber and manufactured goods from New England to the Mediterranean; transporting wine, oil, and fruits to the West Indies; and returning to New England with rum, molasses, and sugar.  The Monthly Nautical Magazine said “having a reputation for speed, by wringing reluctant laurels from her competitors who have chanced to fall in company with her at sea….she does her designers no discredit…her log will speak for itself”.
 
The model is built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) based on an old Model Shipways solid hull kit and plans by George F. Campbell.  The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings.  Limited commercial fittings will be utilized where appropriate, and the rigging will be proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks.  The Brigantine Newsboy is my 4th wooden ship model and the 2nd in my series of mid 1800’s American merchant sailing ship models.
 
As time permits, I will attempt to post the high points of my previous MSW Build Log.
 
Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

If you go, the Naval Academy Museum has just acquired a contemporary Cruiser class model, fully rigged. Can't get much better than that, except that it's missing the wheel and capstan. Why? The new ivory import restrictions in the US prohibited its entry, even though it was clearly antique ivory! So, those parts had to be stripped off before it left England. These new regulations affect musicians (their instrument bows, for example). They don't dare go abroad to play now, because their instruments won't be allowed back into the USA.

If you go, the Naval Academy Museum has just acquired a contemporary Cruiser class model, fully rigged. Can't get much better than that, except that it's missing the wheel and capstan. Why? The new ivory import restrictions in the US prohibited its entry, even though it was clearly antique ivory! So, those parts had to be stripped off before it left England. These new regulations affect musicians (their instrument bows, for example). They don't dare go abroad to play now, because their instruments won't be allowed back into the USA.

Here are the first seven aft cant frames made and installed, I've decided to carry on and make the other 6 and install them before moving forward to the bollard timbers, hawse pieces and fore cants unless someone can give me a reason not to.
Working away this next week so no progress will be made.
 
Ben

​Take your time and use a sharp V groove chisel The sharper the better making small light passes at first so to produce light curls of wood 
Many light passes are much better than One large blunder and a trip to the wood shop for more timber 
Andy

Thank you David

Continuing adjustment

Thanks Rudolf.   Your assumption is correct.
 
Railings at quarterdeck and poop:
 
I suppose the following pics are self explaining and don't need much words:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Poop Bulkhead:
 
There is a saying "a picture tells more than a thousand words". So here are a few "thousand words" about making of the poop bulkhead:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Klaus

When I took measurements for making the poop bulkhead I discovered that I've cut the toptimbers in the aft part too low for the required height of the great cabin. To remedy this I glued a square piece of wood over the toptimbers which gave me the required additional heigth 
 

 
Into this I cut slots for an extension of the toptimbers
 

 
and tzhe outside was covered by on additional strake of clinker pkanking
 

 

 
 
Klaus
 
 
 

I just could not find the time to make an update of my log as intended, whenever I started there was something more urgent to be done and so time went by.
Whatever, I will try now to catch up and to bring the log to the current status by reposting the Pictures with only a few words.

Steering gear: I intend to make a working steeering gear (don't know yet if I will succeed)

 the making the whipstaff rowle and the rowle inserted in it's place in the hull:
 
Klaus
 
PS: for whatever reason the inserting of the pictures did not work as it should, I could not place the pics at selected positions in the text. After clicking on "Add to post" no attachment code was visible at the selected positions and all pics were shown after my post

Would Austrian archives possibly have information if these were captured ships?

If you don't see inspiration at New London, check whether you are still breathing! You'll see some terrific models there. I've attended three times and have always come away inspired.

I've gotten the tie-downs for the lifeboats installed; the davits fabricated and installed; and the name boards in place. I'm waiting for some blocks from Chuck to finish off the block and tackle for the davits:
 

 

 
I don't know why the davits look uneven in the photo, but, trust me, they are all the same.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 55 – More hold work
 
The plan has been to finish all of the work in the lower part of the hold so finish can be applied to this area before moving upward to work on the lower deck.  The first picture shows the main mast step and the water tank base.
 

 
The members to support the off-center beam pillars are being positioned in this picture using a straightedge.  In the next picture they have been glued down.
 

 
This picture also shows the addition of one last 6” wide strake of planking to bring the width of the limber channel down to the required 10”.  In this picture a few limber boards have just been glued over that final channel – hence the wet spot.  The pins on the opposite side are holding the last plank on that side.
 
The next picture shows some more limber boards in place plus a pile to one side.  The ceiling planking and other structures have just received one coat of beeswax-turpentine finish.
 

 
When dry, the shade of this finish will be about halfway between the two shades in this picture.  Surfaces that will receive glue later have not been coated.
 
The next picture shows some work on the Mizzen step.
 

 
The chunk of pear being marked will be cut to the shape of the knee and then slit into two to fashion the forward knees.  The aft knees are roughly fit at this stage.  In the next picture the mizzen step is almost finished.
 

 
Bolts have been installed down through the frames with epoxy.  These will have to be filed off and the assembly finish sanded.  The bolts will then be blackened to represent iron.
 
The last picture shows the current status.
 

 
With the ceiling planking darkened the contrast with the bilge strakes above is clearer.  This shows the convergence of the heavy bilge strakes forward to butt into the bottom of the lower deck clamp.  In this configuration the heavy band acts like a girder to reduce hogging strains.
 
It will soon be time to start work on the lower deck framing.
 
Ed
 
 

Thank you, Michael, Sailor, Druxey, Ed and Grant. Each week, I keep thinking I will finally be able to show the stern assembled and glued; but entire days go by with file and fit, file and fit. It really helps keep me going in these more tedious moments with your words of encouragement!
 
I just have to remind myself that a model maker did exactly this same thing 250 years ago, on the original Bellona model. And probably by candlelight as deadlines approached...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

I have to agree with Sherry. You certainly practice what you preach. Superb work.

Hi everyone,
 
I continue to work on the stern, which proves to be the most complex thing I have ever built. Each piece interacts with several others, like a basket-weave. Nothing can be finally fixed, until others are fixed, which in turn depend on the first piece, etc. I discovered that even pinning things together doesn't entirely work, because the pieces move enough that fine fitting of another part is always off a bit.
 
So I decided to firm up the middle, with the rudder port chocks glued to the two adjacent vertical timbers, holding the center timber. With this as a foundation, the other parts can be fitted to something solid. That center piece was a bit tricky to shape, and I am showing a Sherline vise held by my bench vise, which allowed it to be held without breaking the open end.
 
I am also showing the helm port transom on the fore side of the timbers. Eventually, it will be cut in the middle, to come down to the top of the stern post. But I decided to keep it whole while fitting everything, to keep everything in alignment.
 
I keep thinking I am only a short time away from gluing it all up, but each little fitting of parts takes forever. Maybe next week....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

during this time to make happened little distracted by the tool, put in order their chisels top bought for small items and the bottom was done by myself I've got a good set of tools
 
за это время сделать получилось мало, отвлекался на инструмент, привел в порядок свои стамески верхние купил для мелких предметов а нижние делал сам получился неплохой набор инструментов

продолжение
немного поработал пока вот 
 
continuation
little has worked so far
 

this is the last photo of what I do at the moment, will be continued in the process of work if you have questions I'll try to answer
 
это последний фото того что сделал на данный момент продолжение будет в процессе работы если есть вопросы постараюсь ответить
Анатолий
 

Thanks Andy, yeh this is the fun part tangeling with pesky cant frames that don't want to line up, had to remove one side of frame 3 as it decided to move position while the glue dried!!
 
Here is aft cant pair #4 installed, just need to install the temp spacers.
 
Ben