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It would be nice to have a name that we can call you. Thank you.


The rabbet is not a vee groove for the entire length.  It is a dynamic groove that matches the lay of the garboard strake for most of it's length.  It continues to change as it rises at the bow to match the angle at which the planking will land in the rabbet.   Near the stern it is virtually a vertical "L" shape .  As far as how to make the groove, I start with a vee chisel as described above, but for only a shallow cut.  I then go to a small, extremely sharp flat chisel to finish the rabbet.   Be sure the keel is secure on the work bench so you can control the chisel with both hands.  The attached sketch may be a better explanation.




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Hi David:


Depending o the scale (and your commitment to accuracy), you could take a simplified approach to carving the rabbet. I usually draw the bearding line (which marks the inside edge of the planking along the keel) and then the rabbet line below it. I then score the rabbet line lightly with a #11 x-acto blade. I then use a #10 x-acto blade (the scalpel blade) to shave wood off the keel from the bearding line to the rabbet line. The #10 blade is also useful for scraping along the rabbet joint as you carve. 


I was trying to post some photos to go along with this, but for some reason my uploads keep failing.....I'll try again in a bit


Edited by hamilton
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OK so here are some photos for you David - these show marking the bearding line and carving the rabbet on my build of the Corel Greyhound.


Here are the bearding & rabbet lines drawn at the bow




Here are the same at the stern




The bearding line is normally marked on the hull profile plan (perhaps as a dotted line on the cross section drawing) - it runs along the bottom edge of the bulkhead frames where they meet the keel. The rabbet line runs below it.


After scoring the lower rabbet line with a #11 blade, I then shave off wood starting from the bearding line until I hit the rabbet line and then scrape or carve the wood out to form the joint.




This is the finished look




Hope this helps


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  • 2 weeks later...

Dremel makes router attachements if anyone is interested, (and didn't already know).



Reasonably priced and would give you a perfect rabbit with just a little practice.

Edited by Pops
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Hi David, I cheat (oops perhaps I shouldn't admit that :) ) - for POB kits (as per Hamilton's post) I cut the keel away on the backbone wood from the bottom of the rabbet edge down (after marking it out of course).  I then remove sufficient wood from the rabbet area to allow for the total thickness of the planking (bevel the edge) to create the rabbet recess.  After assembling the skeleton (backbone and bulkheads) and sometimes even after the hull planking,  I fit a new keel which in effect creates the bottom edge of the rabbet for the planking.  You can include the stern post and stem in this process also if you wish.  If you do it after the planking, my trick is to dry fit the keel before planking and create a couple of alignment holes in the bulkheads which will align with pins in the top of the keel when they are finally fitted (just leave these holes clear when planking).


For me this creates a very clean edge to the planking, and if using a good hardwood, provides a better finished keel (stem and stern posts etc if all are done) in which you can add the scarfs etc-  and who can tell the difference if you don't tell them ;)





Edited by BANYAN
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I have seen some use a razor blade to shape edges and nice cuts but I haven't been able to cut the marks on the blades very well. I've got to get the v-groove correct which I have to do this very, very cautions as not to take to much off, measure twice or even 3 or 4 times cut once.

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