druxey

Thanks all.
 
All the parts are glued in place and the stern is faired.
 

 
 
Remco

Dan: I think that two generations of model makers have been a little misled by Longridge's (correct) assertion that the lines of these timbers converge to a point somewhere in the air. However, the shipbuilders (and we modelmakers) have no need to actually figure out this virtual vanishing point. 
 
All we need to know is the width across the wing counter and the spacing and sided widths of the counter timbers. We also need to know the width across the top timbers at the stern, then proportionally divide up that distance into the intervals and (now narrowed) sidings of the counter timbers. There is no need to figure out where that imaginary meeting point is.

Fascinating discussion on the merits of water tank design! And great work as usual, Ed.

Dan: I think that two generations of model makers have been a little misled by Longridge's (correct) assertion that the lines of these timbers converge to a point somewhere in the air. However, the shipbuilders (and we modelmakers) have no need to actually figure out this virtual vanishing point. 
 
All we need to know is the width across the wing counter and the spacing and sided widths of the counter timbers. We also need to know the width across the top timbers at the stern, then proportionally divide up that distance into the intervals and (now narrowed) sidings of the counter timbers. There is no need to figure out where that imaginary meeting point is.

Thanks for looking in again, and the nice comments Geoff, Brian, Ben, John and Spyglass.
 
 
Sorry about that Spyglass, I didn't realize that you were up to the same stage . Besides, the construction of your Pegasus is quite a bit different to mine . You're doing a fine job.
 
Ensign Staff Block and Clamp
 
There are a few more things on the taffarel that need doing prior to fitting the assembly to the ship. One of these is the Block and Clamp that hold the Ensign Staff, enabling it to be easily removed.
 
The block is stepped into the fore edge of the taffarel and has two small molded sections at it's ends,
 
The clamp is very similar to a Gun Trunion Cap, so I simply used a slightly modified spare that I had (I only had to enlarge the diameter of the half-hole slightly) :
 

 

 
  Danny

Ed, regarding your comments about the shape of the tank, it all comes down to free surface effect. The easiest way to understand this is by taking a glass of water and a small flat Tupperware container. Fill each of them with an equal amount of water. Give each one a shove across a flat surface. The water in the flat container will slosh more than the water in the glass.
A mass of water in a tank behaves like a pendulum with its weight acting about the imaginary swing point of the pendulum. This can result in a very serious loss of stability due to a virtual rise in the centre of gravity. This effect can be lessened by partitions in tanks (not necessarily divisions). I can dig up my stability book and give you the mathematical formulas that calculate the rise in the centre of gravity based on the surface area of a tank, if you'd like.
 
Andy

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 54 – Treenailing, steps, water tank plinth
 
The first picture shows the treenailing of the ceiling planking on the port side in progress.
 

 
Treenails have been glued in and clipped off on the center to right side of the picture.  To the left, holes have been drilled and are waiting for nails.  The next picture was taken later around the midship area.
 

 
In this picture the nails have been filed off flush and the planking finish sanded and polished up with some steel wool.  The iron blunts at the butts are more pronounced.  The step of the main mast is in position but has not been permanently fixed.  It still needs assembly bolts.  The next picture shows more of the port side ceiling and both forward mast steps.
 

 
I had to catch up on some drafting in order to move forward with the permanent fixing of the steps.  I had not yet detailed some additional hold members.  The next picture shows some of the additional members required in the midship area.
 

 
Some of the pillars in this area are located outside of the openings for the main hatch, the mast partners and the two large square tanks that stored fresh water.  These off-center pillars will be installed on the long base members shown loose in the above photo.  The next picture shows the beginning of construction of the plinth that will support the water tanks.
 

 
These two iron tanks rested on the keelson and are about 6 feet wide, so additional supports were needed on either side.  These are being built up as a solid base of 8” x 8” members.  The first layer of these is shown in the above picture.  The next picture shows this first layer being leveled off on the port side.
 

 
The lower members were shaped to match the hull curvature, but the final structure needs to be flat at the top.  The next picture shows the completed plinth.
 

 
The top of this substantial base has been fitted with 6” x 6” dunnage beams.  The two flat-bottomed iron tanks will rest on these.  The aft tank is 6000 gallons and extends up to just below the main deck, a height of about 20 feet.  The smaller 2000 gallon tank is 12 feet high with its top just under the middle deck.  I don’t know why these were so tall.  I would have thought shorter tanks with a larger footprint in the hold would be better for stability, but the source is reliable.  These were usually round, but Webb installed square tanks in Challenge and that was the basis for this design.  I assumed no change would be made in the short interval between Challenge and YA.
 
The pillar support members seen in this picture have not yet been shaped or installed.  There will be three pairs of pillars on the forward set and two pairs on the set astride the tanks.
 
The last picture shows the final installation of the foremast step.
 

 
After gluing the assembly on to the keelson and the ceiling planking, holes for the bolts in the horizontal arms of the knees were drilled down through the frames.  Copper wire through-bolts were then epoxied into place.  Long bolts through the centerline of the cap were inserted into the keelson in what had been locating-pin holes.  All these bolts were iron and will be blackened before applying finish.
 
Ed

Hi all
 
Being distracted by new toys, followed by work, I haven't done much that was photo worthy, so I thought I would post a couple of "proof of life" shots having just finished the orlop deck framing.
 

 
In the background of the photos you can see the aft magazine with roof and hoods on. Some scratches still need to be smoothed out on this, and the flash makes it look worse than it really looks.
 

 
There are bulkheads still to go in either side of the aft magazine, and the platforms will be planked, but until I start work on the forward magazine and platform I won't decide how much to plank.
 
At this juncture I would say I am not a fan of carlings and ledges .... only the fore platform, two full decks, quarter deck and forecastle to do, then no more of them - yay!
 
Cheers
Rob
 

Aft Cant frames 2 & 3 installed using some scrap basswood sized and shaped to fit as temporary spacers at the frame tops.
 
Ben

Thanks all for your kind words.
 
Sometimes you run into a part and had no clue that it would be that hard to make. The quarterdeck transom is such a part, looking rather unexciting. One redo and the better part of a couple of days work went into it. I had expected the counter timbers to be trickier but after watching Mark doing his Belona's counter with the help of a jig, I constructed a small jig that saved a lot of head aches. The mortises on the wing transom I had made light-years ago had to come off as the spacing was all wrong. Where would a shipwright be without his bottle of isopropyl
 

 

 

 

 
Remco

Druxey There ya go
 

 
Kieth I am glad that you can use the saw blade trick.
 
Mark Thanks
 
And than you all for the likes.
 
I was not very happy actually with the set of four new hinges so today I began a third set, this time I did not anneal the brass but bent it cold, and scaled up just a little by using a 1/16th end mill. The picture shows a steel rod acting as a bit of a drill to clean up the holes after the milling
 

 
The next picture shows the new hinge made today next to the slightly smaller earlier one. the new one looks a lot tidier to me
 

 
Set up in the companionway.
 

 
I added some small bevels to the door frame. tomorrow I will finish the second set for the other door.
 
Michael
 

Thank you sirs but your comments are inflated.
I tried another setup with led lights.

I also did try to put a flash inside the model.

Hi All,
 
The framing of the gun ports is moving along nicely and one pleasant thing I learned was that
there are no sweep ports to worry about.
 
A batten strip was pinned to the bulwarks at the previously marked reference lines and a smooth
run was established. I then marked the bulkheads for the final placement of the sills. The sill and
lintels were cut from boxwood.
 

 
At the bow the bridle port fell over a bulkhead and the bulkhead had to be cut away prior to framing it.
 

 

 
To add the lintels a piece was cut at the correct height and long enough to sit on both sills this
gave a consistent height and eliminated the need to measure each one.
 

 
I have done the preliminary sanding to the out board side.
 

 

 
On to the transom soon!

Hello, I finished gluing the square frames.
 
 

 

 

 

And one side of the second aft cant frame being adjusted for fit.
 
Ben

Well here is the first aft cant frame installed.
 
Ben

...... continued.
 
I made the taffarel base from three pieces. This will save a lot of carving, and won't be at all noticeable.
 

 
I drilled out the bulk of the inner parts of the top section, glued it to the middle section and clamped it into the baseboard to dry :
 

 
Then I finished the outer edges and glued the pieces to the main lower piece and clamped it again. I spot-glued the main piece to the baseboard - this will ensure it doesn't straighten out and also gives a good steady rest for the carving etc :
 

 
Once the three pieces had dried I started carefully carving and cutting the waste out of the middle holes. This was relatively easy, thanks to the earlier removal of most of the waste :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

I`ve been busy this afternoon Popeye,
 
those guns are so small and there are first 3 finished out of 14 in total to be built..., but I trust the production is well repeatable by now
 
Nils
 
 
 

fits easy on 1/2 a thumb
 

Hi Ben, Unfortunately it's a long haul for me and I won't be able to attend.
Sorry it should be a great time. I hope you get to go.
 
Ok I've been moving along just haven't been able to find time to post.
 
The hull is faired fairly close to its final shape. I still have a little work to do on
the tops of the bulkheads but I'll wait until I frame the gun ports to finish it up.
I didn't need to use any cross bracing either. The plywood was good and solid
and I was careful too.
 
I next  planked the two platforms of the lower deck with pau marfim.
 

 
After that it was time to add the bow fillers and bollard timbers. Two of the fillers
needed to be a total of 7/32" thick. While the third timber needed to be 3/16" thick.
Chuck used two pieces to obtain the 7/32" thickness, (1 x 3/16" & 1 x 1/32"), I used
my thickness sander to thin down a piece of 1/4" wood I had to the 7/16". Same result
I just used one piece.
 

 
After that it was time to make the bollard timbers. these are not the traditional way to
make them but seeing there are bulkheads and not frames only the tops will be seen.
As you can see from the plans there are different angles, thicknesses and a hole it was
a bit of a challenge. At least every piece was made twice and some three time before
an acceptable one was obtained.
 

 

 

 
 
The bollard timbers are just set in place for now. Next up it is time to start framing in the gun ports.

Denis thanks.
 
S.os the diameter is 2 scale inches at the moment but is still need a little refining I will bring it down to about 1 5/8th or 13/64 actual.
 
Worked on the set of 4 hinges today, The blade in the jewelers saw was purposely set at about half length to keep it flatter.
 

 
The hinge on the left is the original test hinge
 

 

 
Drilling and countersinking the fixing holes, the holes are .033 or a number 66 drill and i had to make the countersink from a bit of drill rod
At first I used some hard maple as a backing support but I needed a harder surface so used a piece of 1/2 inch square Duraluminium bar
 

 
The hinge pin is 1/32 or 1/4 inch scale
 

 
Michael

Had a great day today, family time I got some nice gifts some small metal toolmakers clamps from lee valley plus a mitre box for the razor saw, the first commercially made one I have ever owned,  and some boat building time.
 
Gluing up the doors using some wedges and bicycle inner tube bands
 

 
Making a test hinge first some 1/64 thick brass strip was annealed and folded over some .015 steel rod the the excess was cut off with the jewelers saw
 

 
next the half was slotted, again with the saw
 

 
the second half was made in the same manner
 

 
next the sides were filed up square and even
 

 
checking the size on the side of the door
 

 
next the relief needs to be filed into the doors and the sides of the companionway before the doors are mounted.
 

 
Oh yes and now I need to make a set of four hinges that are the same size.
 
Michael

What you do with modelling clay in small sizes is very, very impressive!

Thanks Rusty, Mark, Grant and everybody for the likes.
 
Mark - I know the picture looks silly, sometimes I feel like destroying my phone but I wouldn't want to damage my precious Byrnes Sander.
 
Anyway - the stern transoms have all been fitted and pinned in place successfully! I had left the ends of the transoms slightly overlength so I could fair them back to suit the aft cant frame which is what I'm doing now and I have started cutting aft cants 1 thru 7 out of 9" stock.
 
Ben

Thanks for the Likes everybody.
 
Druxey - already been done, after that picture I marked the bolts and trimmed them down to a perfect size, see first pic.
 
I have predrilled all of the transoms before fitting for pinning with bamboo treenails, I used a #65 drill bit and drew bamboo down to #35 hole in the Byrnes plate, this is not to scale but just for reinforcement purposes.
 
Then the 4th transom was installed and pinned, making sure that it lined up with the buildboard markings as well as the heights above the keel bottom as measured from the mylar plan. I am deviating from the TFFM description of installing the transoms which would have the wing transom installed first, I am going to install the 4th first, then the fashion pieces below it, this should give me a solid bottom reference point, then I will install the wing transom which will give me the top point, and then install the transoms in between. Hopefully this works out like I envision.
 
Now on to the fashion pieces, they were cut out of 9" stock oversized slightly by 1/32" outside the lines, then I setup the Byrnes sander to excatly 29.5 degrees using an app on my Iphone, the angles were sanded and then the pieces refined until a perfect fit was achieved under transom 4. I drilled them ready for pinning and then glued in place using a square to make sure it was perpendicular ( the picture doesnt look like its correct but it is! ) you can see how the square matches the correct line on the buildboard.
 
ben.