druxey

You can manage soup, Gary? That's good enough to be a ship's cook. You're pressed!

By the late 1790's decoration was heavily restricted. The full length figure was ditched for a bust or half-length. You'd be safe to go with that.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 40 – Aft Half Frames 1
 
As in the forward section, the aft half frames lie between the cant frames and the aftermost of the full square frames.  They bolt to the vertical side of the deadwood and are square to the line of the keel.  When installed they will be hard to distinguish from the full frames that rest on the keel.  However when the horizontal bolts are installed the difference will be more obvious.
 
I installed the first of these following the method used on the forward frames.  As shown in the first picture these, although separate, were fabricated as a single assembly held together with temporary cross-spalls.  This assembly would then be slipped over the deadwood at the correct height.  The breadth at the top is held by the spalls and alignment set using the center string line.
 

 
The next picture shows the erection method.
 

 
The sides are contained by the two clamped squares located at the line on the base drawing.  The center of the spall is marked and aligned with the string.  The height on both sides is set using the vertical caliper based on heights taken from the drawing.  This worked well except that gluing and accurately clamping at the deadwood was a bit involved.  I soon adopted the simpler method shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method the two frame halves are installed separately.  The ribbands at the planksheer were extended back into the cant frames.  These ribbands are then used to set the height and breadth of the frames at the top, where they are pinned tightly through the ribband as was done for the full frames.  This method roughly mimics actual shipyard practice.
 

 
This turned out to be a very much simpler method with equal accuracy.  In the next picture a half frame has been lightly clamped at the bottom and the frame is held so the top of the aft top member is at the top of the ribband. The ribband has been marked with the joint line of the frame for fore and aft alignment.  A pin hole is being drilled through in the picture.
 

 
Once pinned at the top it is an easy matter to rotate the frame to apply glue to the face, then position and clamp it in place by one of the methods shown above.  This process is almost too simple.  However, it does depend on an accurate ribband line.
 
To help assure this, a spreader was inserted and pinned at frame 33, about midway in the remaining open space.  Sized from the pattern for 33, this helps maintain the correct curve of the ribband breadth.  This spreader and two measured strips are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The strips are loose and were merely used to check the breadth at the last full frame and the last installed half frame.
 
The last picture shows the hull at present.  The remaining gap in the framing should soon be filled.
 

 
Apart from the clutter of my workshop in the background, this picture gives an idea of the length of this hull – and of the L/B ratio.  This is one long slim ship -  roughly 240 feet long by about 43 feet broad – about 6/1.  Naiad:  3.7/1.
 
 
 Ed

covered with oil:


 
after drying oil tinting:




 
Everything. And so it did:


 
Sincerely, Alexander
 
 
 
 
 
 

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

A great little video Doris I have the very deepest respect and admiration for modelers like yourself that achieve results like yours with the most basic of toolkits
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris

but a very pretty little girl.
aber ein sehr hübsches kleines Mädchen.  
Regards Karl

Hello, some pictures.

No guys I didn't make the Drill. They custom made a small batch of these where I used to work for PCB drilling and kindly gave me one when I left. Couple more pictures to whet your appetite!
 

 

 
Sorry, we really have wandered off topic now!

Ssh Tony, you're giving my secrets away! For model ship making you could always make something like this out of hardwood, it would serve the purpose just as well.
 

Without seeing what your model actually looks like, i can only offer a general suggestion. Measure and mark out the hole first. Now check it again!  Drill an undersized hole slowly, backing up with a pad of scrap wood. Holding the pad tightly against the inside of the hull will prevent tearing out when the drill bit breaks through. Slowly enlarge the hole to the size and shape you want using Swiss files. That way you maintain good control over the operation.

Which you won't do if you bring out the rotary tool.  This is an operation to which the rotary tool is not suited.  It can take too much off too easily.
 
Colin

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

Hello friends.
Fitted deck beams provisionally loose
from the Upper Deck  /  Quarter Deck.
 
Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l   4 0

Without seeing what your model actually looks like, i can only offer a general suggestion. Measure and mark out the hole first. Now check it again!  Drill an undersized hole slowly, backing up with a pad of scrap wood. Holding the pad tightly against the inside of the hull will prevent tearing out when the drill bit breaks through. Slowly enlarge the hole to the size and shape you want using Swiss files. That way you maintain good control over the operation.

More absolutely beautiful work! You never cease to amaze us, Doris.

ready

Neptune, Poseidon, Nij

I was going to use sycamore for the deck planking, but decided to use maple instead.
The size of the deck planking is 4x1mm and I used my plank bender to curve the planks.
 
Deck planking fitted
 

 
Smoothing the deck
 

 
The deck after smoothing
 

 
mij

Fitting some toptimbers made from pear.
 

 
 mij
 
 
 

Hello dear friends,
I am pleased, you like my work. Thank you a lot, your words are much appreciated.
 
Another part of Royal Caroline is completed, I have also improved some details at down part of the columns - they are shorter and have better shape. During next weeks I am going to make guns and other crew members.
Best regards and enjoy the pics
Doris
 




 

Framing is difficult enough: introducing the extra level of difficulty with a hogged keel is fiendishly hard! It looks as if you've worked out how to manage the problem nicely. Well done, Ersin!

At the stern is a small hand winch.

 
The two sides (46a) get doubled.  After these parts are dry, cut out, and colored, glue the gear (46d) to the inside of one side panel, then use a small pin to make holes for the crank.  There's a template on the parts sheet for forming the crank (46e), which should be made from very fine wire - which I happened to not have on hand anywhere, so I used some less-than-ideal larger gauge wire.  Assemble the drum (46b and 46c); when that's done, attach the drum to one side of the winch.  Don't attach the second side until after the crank is inserted.

 
Thread the crank through one side, then the other, then glue the second side to the drum to complete the winch.

 
Glue the completed winch to the locator marks aft of the gun mount.  The side with the extra gear goes to starboard.

Next we have a series of small ventilators.  One in each pair of ventilators is actually a venturi vent.  Air passing through the tapered bore of the venturi created low pressure, which in turn drew air from inside the ship.  Thus air flowed into a normal cowl ventilator, through the interior, and back out a venturi - a clever means of cooling in the days before air conditioning.
 
The venturis (37) are easier to build, so start with those.

 
Each venturi is simply a conic section seated on top of a short tube.

 
The forward venturi goes on the starboard side, while the aft venturi mounts on the port side.

 
The cowl ventilators (38) introduce one of the banes of card modeling: petals (shudder!).  Petals are one way of tackling curved tubes or rounded cones (the other is consecutive slices, as was done with the large ventilator between the stacks).  The problem with petals is that they are, in my esteemed opinion, one of the most difficult card structures to form and glue properly.  Fortunately, the number and size of petals in this instance is small; any flaws in their construction will have a minimal visual impact.
 
Start by rolling the tube (38a) for each ventilator.

 
Then, gently bend over each petal.  You'll see that the petal tips will want to come together at a point.  Brush some white PVA onto the petals, being sure to get some into the seams.  Gently form the petals together with your fingers while the glue sets.
 
The cowl is made by gluing 38b into an oval to match the opening of 38a.  Glue the cowl to the tube, then work the seams, either with your fingers or a blunt tool, to get them sealed as well as possible.  I find it best with small cowls like these to paint the entire finished cowl.  Mount the cowls to the opposite side of their venturi partners.

 
Now, pat yourself on the back for having finished your first card petals!