druxey

On building the items for the gun deck I have uploaded photo's showing how I made my capstan's. Not quite as advance as Ed's, but am sure that several years in to Montagu life she just may of had those types. In ones travel of building and researching a ship of the line, one runs in to some interesting items such as the fore jeer capstain, and it being lower down in to the capstain room on the orlop deck.  Just to give some of you a heads up on this item, while researching this capstan, most of the contracts I have on them state that this capstain was lowered down to the orlop deck to make room for the long boat.  Steel shows this in his plates and talk's about it in his book Steel's Naval Architecture of 1805. After spending time trying to figure out how it worked I built what I thought was a good repersentive of it.  Did they really lower this down, I do believe so, why else would they have built it this way.

After the beams were installed and fitted in place, they were left loose so I could pull them out for cutting the notches for the carlings on the out side of the ship. I also added the hanging and lodging knees to the ends of the beams and seems that it took awhile to get the pieces to a point were they could be glued in place. At the same time the bitt's were added along with the fore mast partner which was sandwich in between the knees of the bitt's. Most probably know that the cross member of the bitts were not nailed in place but held in place by eyebots and hooks which I added  them. Since all the pull was on the bitts them self seems like a good thing to do and did save time if the cross members needed to be changed out.

Thanks every one. I have not given up on my log and thought it was time for another update, this time moving up to the gun deck. As am trying to do the gun ports first before adding the outside planking, which sort of slow's down things some what. I have also uploaded a photo showing a close up of one port showing how the English would have fitted the upper and lower cills to the frames. Once these were done then the beams were laid followed by ledges, knees, carlings and other items that was built on this deck.

You are absolutely correct: the thickness of pencil lines matters! If you draw your own plans, these should be as thin as possible. In the case of plans such as you show, it can be a problem.
 
One test might be to know the thickness of the bulkhead material and see which side of the lines of the slots match this. If that is not possible, then I'd cut to the outside of the lines. It's easier to sand a bit more off than glue it on again!

Thanks, Mark.
 
The next items to make were the hatch coamings.  I chose to model them in cherry for the contrast.  The gratings will be in boxwood.  They are composed of four pieces (two fore and aft coamings and two athwart head ledges).  The coamings have a rabbet to accept the grating.  There was no rabbet on the coaming for the ladderway.  On the real ship they would interlock with a tailed half-lap joint; I made a simpler half-lap joint.  The head ledges curve to match the round-up of the deck.  Rather than making the entire assembly off the ship and then sanding in the curvature, I glued the head ledges directly onto the beams.  There is not that much round-up so pre-bending the wood was not necessary.  Once they were dry I installed the coamings and cleaned up the joints. 
 

 

 
At the corners, the edges are rounded off to the deck level only, leaving a 90 degree corner from the beam to the top of the decking. 
 

 
Each head ledge is secured with three bolts.  I did not have any brass wire with me so I dyed a bamboo treenail black to simulate the bolt.  Treenails secure the coamings.  I spaced them approximately every foot.  The treenails are also made of cherry.
 

Fitting Capsquares
 
 
Thanks Greg. They took a bit of careful work to get off, first with the edge of my disc sander and then with a needle file. They came to me "as cast" with no extra work done. Blackening was no problem at all once they had been pickled in vinegar and wirebrushed with the Dremel.
 
I used the mill to drill the holes for the Capsquares - can't beat it for that kind of precision, every cap fits perfectly . Unfortunately, the caps are slightly overscale (1mm too long), but I can live with that :
 

 

 
  Danny

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 181– Deadeyes and Chains
 
I will admit that making deadeye chains is one of my least favorite tasks, so it is well that it comes near the end of the project when my desire to get finished overcomes my reluctance to working on these.  I find it difficult to exactly measure the required lengths of the chains and lack the patience to make all the easily deformed pieces straight.  However, having said that, the task must be faced.  There are a lot of steps to the process I use.  I will merely summarize.
 
Turning the deadeyes is the easy part.  I use a shaped cutter as shown in the first picture.
 

 
After these are polished in the lathe and parted off, the holes are drilled with the aid of the indexing head in the mill,  The next picture shows a finished deadeye fitted with its binding,
 

 
For the large deadeyes the bindings and chains were made from 20-gauge copper wire.  When stretched this is just slightly (⅛”) larger than specified.   Close enough, when considering that wire sizes are limited.
 
Once the correct binding size is found by trial and error, the assembly shown above is used to help determine the length of the two chain loops that connect to the bolt at the top of the preventer plate.  This measurement is taken as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next step is to find two links to fit this measurement.  I do this by selecting two from a group made by wrapping wire around a tapered plate then parting off a number of loops of increasing size.  The next picture shows the tapered plate being wrapped with pre-stretched wire.
 

 
The next picture shows three stages in making a soldered loop.
 

 
The lower loop in the picture is as-cut.  The middle one has had its end curved to close the gap for silver-soldering. 
The loop at the top has had a small amount of copper-phosphorus solder paste applied and is ready for the heat.
 
After soldering, the toe loop is crimped around a wire at the bottom end and soldered at the bottom.  The middle loop is then fitted between this and a binding loop and soldered.  The deadeye is then fit into he binding and shaped around the deadeye.  The next picture shows a set of these hanging from pins in their final locations.
 

 
After assembly the chains are test fitted at the measured location.  Since the model will not be rigged they need to be taut for appearance purposes.  If the chain does not fit in the measured location, I try it at other places until a nice fit is found.  When the set is complete the chains are polished up, straightened and blackened.  They are then installed.  The next picture shows the completed chains on the fore channel.
 

 
Ed

Your toe bone connected to your foot bone,
Your foot bone connected to your ankle bone,
Your ankle bone connected to your leg bone,
Your leg bone connected to your knee bone,
Your knee bone connected to your thigh bone,
Your thigh bone connected to your.....ship bone,
 
Your ship bone connected to your...Heart bone?
 
An incredible labour of love, you must be deeply attached to dem dry bones by now. The story at the start made me lol too. Thanks for sharing this amazing build.
 
TSC
 
**************************************************************************************

I accidentally stumbled upon this build about two or so years back, I'm so pleased to see it once again.
 
Shipwright, master carpenter, teacher and mentor don't even begin to describe your many talents Gary.
 
Best wishes with the rest of the build, simply incredible.
 
TSC

An example of an octagon cut using the method I've described is shown here. The overall length of this windlass at 1:48 scale is about 4".

An example of an octagon cut using the method I've described is shown here. The overall length of this windlass at 1:48 scale is about 4".

thank Anja
the next images show the actual appearance of the ship
 

Once again a big thank you for all the kind comments Randy, Robbyn, Brian, Grant, Adrieke and Jeff .
 
Gun Carriage Brackets
 
Time now to move on to a very enjoyable part of this build - the Guns. I STILL haven't received my gun barrels yet, but at least I can make up the Carriages while I'm waiting.
 
I'm only making half of the sixteen guns that Vulture carried, as there will be none fitted on the unplanked side.
 
The first parts to be made are the Brackets, or side pieces. I cut the rebates for the Axletrees on the Byrnes saw using spacers to get them all exact. The hind axletree is a fair bit wider than the fore one, but it required a smaller rebate as it fits up differently.
 
I used the mill to cut the steps into the top edge. I made up an "L" shaped piece of scrap timber slightly thinner than the pieces to be milled. This was CA glued to one edge of the vise to make setting up for each piece a breeze :
 

 

 
One of the Brackets after milling. I cut the "ogee" shape into the topmost step with my Xacto knife. The rounded section on the bottom was milled in with a home-made cutter ground from an old 10mm drill bit :
 

 

 
  Danny

UPDATED 12/2022
 
The tutorial I will be writing will use a free kit as its subject, but supposing you wished to buy a paper model kit, where could you get one, and who makes the best kits?
 
The first question is rather easier to answer than the second, so we'll start by discussing the various publishing houses.  Few card model designers run their own publishing outfit; usually the designers farm their kits out to one or more publishing houses.  This makes it a little difficult to generalize about Publisher A versus Publisher B, because a designer might have his or her design published at both places.  Lesson: It pays to take note of who designed a particular kit you like, then look for that designer's work at different sites.  Something else to make note of is the date of publication.  CAD designing did not become commonplace until about the turn of the new century -- the earlier a kit is published prior to 2000, the more likely it is to be hand-drawn.  This is not to say that all hand-drawn kits are bad (they aren't) or that CAD-drawn kits are always preferable (they aren't either), but CAD-drawn kits usually have more and finer detail.
 
With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the major publishing firms.  This is by no means an exhaustive list, because due to the nature of the product and the fact that it can easily be electronically distributed, there are dozens of Mom and Pop sites that may have a limited offering available.  Here's a few of the better-known outfits:
 
WAK: This is currently my favorite Polish publisher and shop, as they have the best shipping rates to the US.
 
GPM:  GPM are one of the largest card model publishers in Poland.  They have a large selection of ship models in many scales, both in their own line and from many other publishers as well.  They also have an extensive inventory of after-market accessories.  Ordering by mail from Poland is usually not terribly expensive.  GPM's listed postage rates are steep, but according to reports from other modelers, GPM will calculate the actual postage charge and refund the difference between that and the rate calculated at their website.
 
Modelik:  Modelik carries only their own line of models, but as discussed previously, these are not all the work of one designer.  Modelik kits are generally well-regarded in the hobby.  Modelik charges a flat shipping rate of 15 EUR per order.
 
JSC:  JSC have an extensive line of ship models and are one of the few Polish publishers to offer a large selection of models in a scale other than the usual 1/200 favored in that country; JSC kits are normally either 1/250 or 1/400.  Many of JSC's kits are older hand-drawn designs.  JSC sells directly to the public and through other on-line retailers.
 
Kartonowy Arsenal (KA):  Better known by the surname of its owner and chief designer, Halinski, KA offer highly detailed models of mostly WWII warships.  Though often considered suited only for advanced modelers, the fact that they usually fit together so well eliminates some of the problems found in less well designed kits.  KA does not sell directly to the public. (EDIT (2022): KA does now sell directly from their site, although the ordering process is not what you might expect. You send an email specifying the products you wish to order, and then KA sends you a quote.)
 
Orel:  This Ukrainian publisher is relatively new to the scene, but they have been prolific.  They offer a large selection of mainly Czarist-era Russian vessels, including torpedo boats, destroyers, cruisers, and pre-Dreadnoughts in 1/200 scale.  Orel sells directly to the public as well as through larger firms like GPM. (UPDATE (Dec. 2022): Due to the current hostilities in Ukraine, Orel is not currently accepting orders.)
 
HMV:  The Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag is probably the premier German ship model publishing house.  Like other German publishers, their kits come in the 1/250 scale preferred in Germany.  They have a wide selection of mostly German warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen.  They also offer an extensive line of after-market detail sets.  HMV have been good about upgrading their designs, and several of their older hand-drawn models are currently being reworked as CAD models.  HMV does not sell directly to the public from their website.
 
Moewe Verlag:  Also known as Wilhelmshavener, this publisher has an extensive line of warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen in 1/250.  Ordering from them can be kind of tricky, since many of their kits are hand-drawn models dating as far back as the 1960’s, and this isn’t always obvious when browsing their website.  MV kits tend to be less detailed than HMV kits, but they have a broader selection and somewhat lower prices.  They don’t offer after-market detail sets.  Moewe kits can be purchased on-line from their website.
 
J F Schreiber:  Schreiber are the third major German publisher.  Their kits are, as a rule, less detailed than either HMV or Moewe, but they offer more kits of simpler subjects suited to beginning modelers.  They also offer more kits in 1/100 scale than other publishers.  Schreiber operates an on-line store.
 
Paper Shipwright:  Designer David Hathaway’s line of kits is unique in its extensive offering of monitors.  David also designs small passenger craft and working vessels.  These are generally very good kits and also reasonably priced, with a fair but not overwhelming amount of detail.  Paper Shipwright kits can be ordered directly from their website.
 
Shipyard: The premier publisher of card model sailing subjects. Shipyard kits are distributed in the US by Ages of Sail.
 
In addition to the aforementioned publishers, many excellent designs are available from smaller outfits, some notable ones of which include Digital Navy and Answer (perhaps not exactly 'small outfits', but their ship model selections are limited).  As noted, some of these publishers sell directly to the public, and some don’t.  Finding a retailer that carries the kits you want can sometimes be a taxing ordeal, but here are some of the more popular sites:
 
GPM, Orlik, and Model-Hobby are three of the larger Polish retailers, each carrying their own in-house models as well as designs from other firms.
Karton Modell Shop is a German retailer with a good selection from a variety of designers.
Marcle Models are one of the larger distributors in the UK.
Paper Model Store is practically the only US retailer with a broad selection of Polish kits.  None from Germany, though. (UPDATE: The PMS website has been inactive for years now, and the seller appears to selling on eBay these days.)
E-Cardmodels is a retail venue for a slew of small designers -- a lot of variety of subjects, scales, and degree of difficulty.
HMV are sold through Fentens Paper Models. As of December, 2022, HMV is looking for a new US distributor.
 
There are many, many other places to buy kits on-line, but these should get you started.  Have fun browsing!
 
Back to Part II: Start for FREE!     On to Pt. IV: Tools & Other Supplies

A promising beginning! Looking forward to reading more as you research her.

A more accurate proportion is 7-10-7. Another way of saying this is that the width across the spar when square at any point is 24 parts. Measure in 7 parts of the 24 from each edge and this will, when planed off at 45 degrees, give you a perfect octagonal cross-section.

.....
 
              rekon54

For anyone interested
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-17513286

I realized that the body plan did not account for the step and deck elevation difference from frame 24 and aft so I modified the body plan and frame drawings.  I also found that the clamp for the weather deck beams on the cross section plans at stations 5 and 9  give dimensions of 3"X9" but the individual cross section drawings show two different sizes.  I do not know if the given dimensions are correct or the drawn dimensions.  To further complicate matters, an expanded view in the cross section plans shows a  strake labeled as a sheer strake fayed to the inside of the frames and a clamp fayed to this sheer strake.  Neither of these is dimensioned individually and the cross sections do not show this lamination.  A drawing of the framing in the forward half the hull does appear to show this lamination.  
 
Several more frames have been raised, so she is starting to take shape.  I printed the frame drawings on pressure sensitive label paper, then cut each frame out and place it on the wood.  It is then a matter of cutting them out and sanding them close to the lines before peeling off the paper.  Brand name  label material is a bit expensive, but store brand is much less costly and works the same. 
 
Allan

Thanks ZyXuz
 
Thanks for your tip Arthur.
 
I have attached the two bow cannons in place and added some sacks and barrels to the bow area.

The bulkhead wall is in place and I've 'opened' one of the doors.

I've checked the lighting and it still all works fine. I'll now glue the fordeck into place and get the bow completed.

 
 
 
 
 

The scuttles in the fore deck are all fitted with covers.  There are sills that run fore and aft on the carlings that form the scuttle framing.  They can be seen in the first picture.  The cover rests on top of them.  These covers could either be fit to lift out (which is what I modeled) or hinged.  I deliberately made the covers slightly undersized so that they would stand out from the deck planking.The ring bolts are used to pull the covers and are 3" internal diameter.  They are made from blackened 24 g brass wire.They measure out correctly but look oversized to my eye.  All of the eyes are oriented fore and aft.  
 

 

At long last the treenails have been installed.  Eventually, I decided to use the standard treenail pattern of double fastenings for >11" planks, single-double for 8-11" planks and single for <8" planks. The butts are double fastened for all planks >8".  I never could get the hypodermic needle thing to work at the correct scale so all the fastenings are drill size 77 or scale 3/4".  I prefer to insert the treenails dry with a tight fit rather than more loosely with glue to secure them.  The deck planking appears mottled in the pictures because I wet it to show off the treenail pattern.  It started to dry before I could get the pictures taken.  In the last picture the wood has almost dried out and the treenails almost disappear.  This was a lot of tedious work for something that will never be seen in the completed model.
 

 

 

Mark that might be true but I am sure that there are lots of details that you builders of fully rigged ships add that I would not.
 
John thanks for that.
 
Russ thanks, your own restoration work and attention to detail and research have given me inspiration.
 
Druxey you are absolutely right the hard knocks of being a working boat will no doubt take its toll.
 
 
Andy Busted! I told Gulliver it would be found out one day.
 
Greg thank you.
The proof will be in the pudding as they say.
 
 
Jaerschen, thanks Like everyone here I am always looking to do a better job on the next piece.
 
 
Jay and Sherry thanks you for those kind words.
 
Last night and today I did a little bit of woodwork on the gaff.
 
I had already planed up the spar and so the jaws were cut out of a piece of Apple wood that I have had kicking around for a while now. I started to fret it out with the coping saw and discovered that it was tougher than cutting brass, so I dragged out the scroll saw(I don't really like using it )and put in a brand new blade and still struggled with the apple.
 
Then a lot of work with a coarse sanding stick to rough shape them. then planed a couple of flats on the sides of the spar and glued on the apple rough shapes.
 

 
After the jaws had glued overnight I set about doing the final shaping, using some small carving chisels and the #11 blade
 

 
A couple of hours later I did some final sanding and then a good rub down with some fine steel wool, and a coat of golden oak polyurethane.
 

 

 

 
Next I need to cut the slot for the Tumbler and fit the throat halliard attachment and the parrel beads. I will use Lignum vitae for the beads, I also need to add the through bolts for securing the jaws to the spar..  I am torn whether to add the leather over the jaws because I like the look of the apple. But some fine leather stitched might look pretty as well.
 
Perhaps I will do an experiment with some leather on a bit of scrap and see how it looks.
 
Michael 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 178– Boomkins, Scuttle Hinges
 
The boomkins – or if you prefer, bumkins – were the only spars included in the construction contract.  This is only mentioned because in determining how far to go with the model, I decided to take it to the state required by the building contracts of the time.  There are a few exceptions.  For example, I included the stove, although that was not included in the contract.  I did not include swivel gun mounts, which were included.  I believe the latter had been discontinued by Naiad’s time.
 
The boomkins were substantial spars extending out from the head to secure the block of the fore course tack.  The lengths of these were not specified, except to say that they needed to extend out to plumb with the end of the fore yard when fully braced.  This required some calculations, which yielded boomkins longer than any I have seen on contemporary models, so I made them slightly shorter but still longer than those seen on Minerva and Leda in the Rogers Collection.
 
In the first picture, a square of boxwood is being converted to a tapered octagon shape with a Stanley #92 plane.  The spar will then be planed to 16 sides and finally rounded with a flat file.
 

 
The boomkins slanted down and were curved.  In the next picture, two pieces with significant extra length have been boiled and are held in the final downward curve by the orange clamps and the “clamped squares” that are fixed in the t-trak.
 

 
After drying out, these were cut to length and installed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The boomkins are bolted to the first hawse timbers outboard of the bollards.  Eventually they will be held down at the false rail with iron clamps.  The next picture shows another view of these.
 

 
One of the final chores was to install hinges on the ventilation scuttle just above the wale along the finished side.  These were made as simple shapes, photo-etched.  They are quite small and when blackened and installed on the black planking, almost invisible.  The next picture shows a few.
 

 
Two of these still have some mask attached.  The next picture shows on of these glued on with CA glue.
 

 
Ed
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 177– Port Side, Lower Stern
 
At the time of the “Great Crash” I was working on the unplanked port side of the model and anticipating completion of the entire model within weeks.  It eventually took longer, perhaps without the pressure to keep posting – or perhaps it was resisting crossing the finish line.
 
Anyway, the first picture shows the two additional ribbands installed – one at the height of the wale and the second at the height of the sheer rail.  In this picture the planksheer along the waist and the roughtree rail along the topsides of the quarter deck are also in place.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view pf the planksheer and the gangways installed along the waist.  The tops of these decked walkways is flush with the tops of the planksheers.
 

 
Part of the final work on the port side was to locate and insert all the missing bolts that were left uninstalled during work on the knees, spirketing, and other internal members that bolt through the hull.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the port gangway and one of the ladders into the waist.
 

 
Only the basic structure of the quarter gallery on the port side was installed.  This included the stools, the rim with its stanchions and the upper and lower finishings.  The next picture was taken after bolting in the lower finishing on the port side with the model inverted.  
 

 
While in this position, the final applications of wax finish were applied to the lower stern and the lower hull framing.
 
The next picture shows work on the lower parts of the starboard quarter gallery that were also installed at this time.
 

 
In the next picture the model has been righted and all of the lower parts of the quarter gallery are in place.
 

 
 
Ed