druxey

Well ... there are ... moments. Expect to see it in motion soon.

First off, I would like to thank Michael Mott, for the Teak that he had sent me, I started by using the teak for making the Cockpit seats ( you can't beat Teak ) I then turned my attention to the Toe rails and rub rails. once installed I stained them a cherry red along with the Cabin top . Next will be to start making the Spars and fittings , Almost on the Downwind leg on this build. Here are the results

Today, I was able to complete the Hull Painting , It took 2 coats of flat white, with a base coat.( 3 total )  I will need to touch up the Bottom ( Anti-fouling) Paint. I just unmasked her and here are the results

Some progress was made today.  I wanted to get this crappy part of the project over with.  The bulwarks inboard were faired and thinned down.  I use the sanding drum on my dremel.   What a mess. Then I touched it up with some sandpaper after chiseling some areas away where the bulkhead extensions met the deck.   The bulkhead extensions were thinned down to about 1/16" thick.  I may take them down thinner still.  Maybe 3/64" thick.  You can see them in the close up image below.
 

 
Then I took the template for the false deck from the plans.  I cut it down the middle so I had two halves port and starboard.  You could also make four pieces but I made two and it was fine.  The important thing is to use the center line on the template to line it up with the center of the bulkhead former.  I wanted to try something new with this project.  I intentionally made the template drawing about 1/8" smaller than need on the sides of the hull.  Trying to get a perfect match for folks is tough.  It all depends on how much someone thins down the bulwarks etc....how they fair the hull inboard and its tough to get a perfect match for everyone's model.   
 

 
So basically I took each half one at a time...lined it up with the center line and the mast hole.  I taped it along the bulkhead former.  Then I used thin strips of blue painters tape to find the perfect size and shape for my false deck template.  I just rand lengths of tape along the bulwarks as shown in the photos.   When I peel it up I will have a template that is the perfect match for making my false deck.  It will be cut from 1/16" basswood.   I will get that done tomorrow and post some new pics.   Once the false deck is in position I can plank the inboard bulwarks.
 
Chuck

Many thanks to my fellow building mates   Mark - Patrick - Robin - Ben- David,
and all the "likes"
 
Mark,
I`m happy that you like and enjoy following the progress...
 
 
Patrick,
whilst doing the hull I can well imagine, what the actual designers had in mind way back in 1897
 
 
Robin
thanks very much. I do hope that the original shaped ship`s magnified shape and lines can be brought into this model, I also love the shape of this early engineering and shipwright design
 
 
Ben,
I appreciate your nice comment, and hope you shall further enjoy......
 
 
David,
I`m glad you like it. For determining the stringer notches I refer my own drawn frame plan. I`ve set a stringer  at the outside frame contour at the crossing point of every horizontal deckline (see pic below)
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
how to determine stringer notches.....
 

 
The bilge keels will be brought in later on...
 
 
 

Starting with the stringers.......
 
 
 
 

 
it takes appr. 2-3 hours to have the glue cured, before removing the pins and the pegs for the next glueing session
 
 

 
I`ll have to move the screws that hold the frames more to the outside for having better access to the srews now, before further stringers are put on
 
 
 

 
the relatively long and gentle bows do not bring too much tension on the on the wooden strips
 
 

 
the tricky part of the job though will be the stern portion, maybe I shall use filler pieces to a certain degree....
 
 
 
 
 
Nils

Frankie,
 
I disagree. I see no issue with including SOME detail at a certain granularity, but not include all. I suspect we already do that. If you rig a ship without sails, don't you leave off some of the rigging? Some people rig the guns to a gnat's ***, but do the really model in every rope, line, bucket, widget and who-ha that might be on deck?

Build log part 5
 
 
preparing for attaching the stingers to the frames
 
 

 
all frames are set and glued in. The cut out notches for the stringers are also done
 
 

 
there are three places, where the  3 stand M4 spindles go through keel and square bar. Some supporting ply bits prevent later distortion of keel when spindles are tightened to the stand
 
 

 
spindle fitted in and reinforcement cladding both sides to the keel
 
 
 

 
there are locking nuts M4 on the inside of ship (into the sqare bar)
 
 

 
bow post fitted in and beveled to angle where the later planking will lay on
 
 

 
 

 
Stern is also prepared for putting on stringers
 
 

 
the stringers have been cut with my hand- circular saw, (which I fitted as a table-saw) Then cut the 2 m long strips from a 5 mm thick plank. I wanted to have the stringers over the full ship length in one piece
 
 
 
Nils
 

And remember to let the wood dry out completely before permanently attaching the plank. If you don't, the wood will shrink and you'll end up with gaps between the planks.

Ed, I wish to share with you and everybody interested in the building of the Naiad a little jewel, made by a fellow Italian modeler, who specializes in dollhouse equipment. On my request, he has drawn the stove very precisely from different sources and had all parts photo etched. He then assembled the article to check that all parts fitted. They do. It is in the scale of 1:60, the same as that of your model.
Unfortunately, he will keep the finished stove for himself. I hope when the time comes to be able to make a stove as nice as his. It is a very, very tiny little thing! 
Enjoy the pictures. The stove in shown in the fore part of the ship where it will eventually be located.
Regards
Salvatore

I made the keel boxwood.

The hull is then filled with balsa finished with coarse sandpaper, and then finer
after the surface is grouted, and then again sanded, and then stuccoed Finishing

A busy day today, I started by making the seat backs ,and installed them. I then cut out the Cockpit coamings and put them in rubbing alcohol. I then painted the Deck a sand color, next  (after roughly 3 hours ) I bent the Coamings . I then sanded them to 600 grit and installed them. I then made the Cabin top sanded and installed it. I then made the aft cockpit coaming sanded and installed. I finished up by staining the coamings and seat backs a cherry red.  The seats have not been glued in yet ( I have not decided weather to paint them white or stain them ) Next will be to get the Hull painted ( white with blue antifouling paint ) Here are the results

Today, (with the bad weather we currently have ) I concentrated on getting the Cockpit put together. I started by cutting strips for the Cockpit Floor. I then cut them to length and sanded them to 400 grit ( I will put a coat of varnish on them ) I then made the bulkhead sides that make up the face of the Cuddy cabin. I sanded them to 400 grit and stained them Cherry red along with the seat bases and aft cockpit bulkhead. ( wich has a piece of Birch ply on it ) Once the parts were made up I started by gluing the Cabin bulkheads in followed by the Cockpit Floor. I cut out the cockpit seats ( they have not been glued in at this point) Next will be to make up the seat backs and Cockpit coamings . Here are the results

Thank you, thank you, thank you. 
 
It feels good to be building again but I see I’m back in my old habits.  I build and forget to take pictures until I finish, so no one sees what I do.   If anyone is interested in how I do a part or process please ask.  Anyway this is where I am for now.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

 

There's a booklet on realistic looking sailmaking now available from SeWatchBooks, or as a chapter in the new edition of Swan IV.

As you get used to working with wood, you will be surprised at what you can do with it.

As you get used to working with wood, you will be surprised at what you can do with it.

And remember to let the wood dry out completely before permanently attaching the plank. If you don't, the wood will shrink and you'll end up with gaps between the planks.

Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum).

I had anchor cables done from previous works and they match. Cable circumference is breadth/24 : 41.84/ 24, C : 2pi r, Diameter:6.64 inches and at scale 1/24 :.28 inch. I am sure that if they had micrometer during that period they would have measured not the circumference with a rope but the diameter.
 
During myfirst professional job, I bought a camera. Up to now Olympus was  always my first choice and I was happy with it. Now I will experiment with a full frame Canon camera. They are very strong with the light sensibility and they have a wider variety of programs for the photos manipulation.

Ongoing framework.......
 
the frames shown in the pics before were all still plates without outcuts. Now nearly every frame will get some outcuts ( to allow access when fixing the stringers and later on the planking. Also all the notch-outcuts for the stringers are brought in.......
Also the reinforcement squarebar has become drilled borings  in three places for the stand`s spindles and the locking nuts
 
 

 
every frame is secured to the base with two srews (for easy removal, and bringing into position again)
 
 

 
the keel is now flush and interlocked with the frames
 
 

 
up to now no whether pins nor glue have been used on the framework (all only stuck together) . After the final check on all positions I will upply PA glue, to provide the strong hold
 
 
 
Nils
 

Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum).

Well, I suppose fidelity means plank on frame. This is a challenging project that other methods avoid. If you wish to go this route, I strongly recommend you try a cross-sectional model first. This will give you a good idea (and lots of practice!) in building accurate frames. There are several c/s models on offer right now. For instance, there is the Triton c/s on this site, or the Echo c/s from Admiralty Models. I'd consider either of these to get you up to speed before you tackle the complexities of even a 'straightforward' full hull.

Well, I suppose fidelity means plank on frame. This is a challenging project that other methods avoid. If you wish to go this route, I strongly recommend you try a cross-sectional model first. This will give you a good idea (and lots of practice!) in building accurate frames. There are several c/s models on offer right now. For instance, there is the Triton c/s on this site, or the Echo c/s from Admiralty Models. I'd consider either of these to get you up to speed before you tackle the complexities of even a 'straightforward' full hull.