druxey

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 52 – Aft Platform
Posted 3/1/11
 
Getting the forgotten Spirit/Fish Room partition in under the finished deck framing turned out to be not as difficult a task as feared. In the picture below the second of two segments is being glued and clamped into place.
 
 

 
To slip it in, the partition bulkhead was made in two pieces with a vertical joint line that is hidden by the pillar on the forward side and the middle bulkhead stanchion on the aft side. The planking on this and the forward spirit room bulkhead was 3 inches thick. The next picture shows the forward bulkhead being glued and clamped.
 
 

 
The next picture shows the finished bulkheads and the beginning of planking of the platform.
 
 

 
Before extending this planking to the side, the copper bolts securing the beams were installed through the frames in the location of the temporary pin holes.
 
The picture below shows the whole interior hull after the completion of the aft platform planking. For some reason the color in the pictures are more vibrant as the camera is moved further away.
 

 
In the picture below, holes for treenails for both the decking and the coamings and head ledges have been drilled.
 

 
And in the next picture the treenailing has been completed and two planked blanks, which will each become a “double-flap” hinged closure are lying in place on their respective scuttles.
 
 

 
Except for the area aft of this platform the whole bottom below the orlop beams can now begin the finishing process, but first a few limber boards needed to be installed – just a few to give the general idea. I still want to have a good bit of the limber channels open so I can continue to enjoy picking out pins, wood chips and other debris which keeps falling into them. Some of these boards are shown below.
 

 
The four standard knees still need to be installed on the aft platform and there are some other detailing chores to be done along the orlop level, but getting this platform in place was a bit of a milestone.
 
Finally, a celebration cleanup of the shop was done so the last picture could be taken without all the usual clutter.
 
 

 
This picture certainly highlights the difference in the Euro Boxwood and the Castello decking. Actually the difference is by no means this pronounced, but I do prefer the more subtle contrast of the Castello on the central and aft platforms.
 
It may now be time to move on the the aft magazine.
 
Ed

Ed thanks for adding the picture with your hand it gives me a much better sense of the scale of the model you are working on.
 
Michael

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 50 – Lower Deck Clamps
Posted 2/21/11
 
Since the lower deck clamps needed to be installed to complete the standard knees on all the orlop platforms, it made sense to get these completely done before moving on the aft platform. I mentioned in the last part that this band of two strakes, 6 inches thick is all top and butt planks. The picture below shows this in progress.
 

 
In this picture the curved pieces at the end are being worked on – fore and aft concurrently. Next is a close up of the other side.
 
 

 
At the same time the treenailing of all the installed planks is being done. The next picture shows some of this tedious work in progress.
 
 

 
All the treenailing for all this planking is being done using bamboo, drawn down to .024”. about 2” at 1:60. the holes are drilled to go about halfway into the frames, the bamboo rod is tipped with dark glue, pushed all the way into the hole and clipped off as shown above. The nails are then filed or sanded down.
 
The next picture is of the same area a bit later after the clamps with their treenails have bee cleaned up a bit. The six standard knees shown here have just been glued in. The center one is still wet from glue cleanup.
 
 

 
In the next picture the copper bolts securing these knees have been installed but not finished off.
 

 
The bolts on these knees are staggered and go through the beam in the case of the horizontal leg and through the frames in the case of the vertical leg.
 
The next picture shows these coming out through the frames in reasonably straight lines. They still have to be clipped and filed flush.
 

 
These bolt holes of course pay no attention to joint lines, other bolts, etc, so the pattern on the outside will be a bit random and crowded. There were many fasteners coming through the hull. I believe in the appearance of all these fasteners authenticity will rule over aesthetics. This picture also shows the temporary spacers, which are being slowly removed as spaces are needed for clamping. They will soon all be removed once these clamps are finished and treenailed down.
 
It occurred to me that almost all of the pictures lately have been close-ups showing details, so I added one of the whole model below.
 

 
Ed

Here is a few more of the frame build up.
 

 

 

Thanks Ron!
 
Here are a couple of shots of the builders draughts from the NMM.  As you can see they are now reproduced in color and can provide some interesting insight into some of the differences between the various ships of the Apollo/Euryalus class of the 36 gun frigate.  Various modifications were added using different color inks coded to different ships of the class (difficult to see here).  This is why it is always a good idea to include the actual draughts in your research.

T e i l  4

Hello again.
 
The last while has been busy with all the unimportant things in life, like the dreaded work, so I have not made much progress at all. After seeing Egen's last update, I have to resist the urge to jump ahead of myself .....
 
After running the floorhead thickstuff along the wrong lines, I ripped them all off and started relaying them. Most of the damage done by my wild flailing about with my chisels is now conveniently hidden by the new planking, but I do have a little cleaning up to do.
 
These consist of two runs of 12 11 x 5 inch (22 inch total) with 2 runs of 11 10.5 x 4 inch (21 inch total) each above and below.Midships this totals 6 planks wide, reducing to 4 planks at the ends. Midships and aft, there is little curve, so I just steamed the planks and clamped them while gluing. Where the planking meets the keelson at the bow, it was easier to spile the planks than bend them.
 
Where the number of planks reduced from 6 to 4 at each end, I used a drop strake on the thinner planks above and below the two main planks to merge the two into a single plank running to the ends.
 
The photos are not very good, so I hope to replace them later this week with shots taken outside in natural light.
 
Midships, middle two runs of thickstuff done, the first run above that being clamped in place.

 
Towards the bow, and both the top runs are being fixed in place. The last planks at the bow are spiled as the curve was too great to bend the planks.

 
At the stern, the lower of the two top runs is cut to allow the top run to "drop" into it forming .....

 
.... a single plank to terminate at the aft fashion piece. The same happens forward, and a variation happens to the lower two runs at each end below the main thickstuff.

 
And so far, the planking is done except for 4 lengths which "drop" into the last planks at each end.

 
Cheers
Rob

So, where it is now:
 
I have added the waist strings to give some strength to the upper timbers in the waist. To align the planks to the bottom of the upper sills, I clamped small blocks to the upper sill so that the planks sat onm these at the correct height.

 

 
 
I laid the floorhead thickstuff by first working out the line of the planks where the two thickest (the middle 2) planks run along the hull. I then laid the lower of those two planks from stem to stern until they met the keelson. Then I looked at what I had done, and realised I had run them to meet the keelson where the top plank should have met .... arghhhhhhhh
 
Naturally, I had managed to run several of the planks adjacent to these, so everything needed to be removed. I commented before how strong this hull is.....very little damage has been done even after rough abuse with chisels.
 
One thing I have noticed - every little scrap of wood in the hull ends up in the limber channel or the pump wells. It is almost as if it was designed with this in mind!
Ripping out the bad ....

 
But to finish this summary - I'll use this tidy picture
 

 

Continuation
 
Service of ropes for  blocks (a string of Gutermann Skala 200, Col. 464).

Sept. 28, 2011.  I have made the first six fore cant frames.  I used the angle gauge on my scroll saw for cutting the angles for the bollard, hawse and cant  timbers.  I later discovered the gauge is off approx. 1 degree.  This resulted in a 2 degree cumulative error which was corrected by changing the angle of the aft end of the bollard timber by 2 degrees.  Needless to say I have bought an accurate protractor and am no longer relying on the angle gauge on the saw.  I felt this was safer than removing 1 degree on two pieces.  Of course, I had already glued and pinned the bollard timbers so this had to be done mounted on the stem.  Any internal imperfections will be hidden by further construction.  The apparent crossing of cant 3 in the first picture is a result of the camera angle. Because this is such a critical timber, I used hidden brass pins to secure them.  Wood treenails were installed externally for a uniform appearance.

 
Fore Cant 

  
 

 


 
Author:  Dan Vad. I do the 90 degree bevels with my disc sander to the angle on the pattern – also the little step where it sits on the apron.  Then I use a sanding board to shape the fore-aft angle.  My sanding board is a piece of MDF with a gloss laminate (old shelving) which I’ve cut to the size of a sanding sheet and screwed to a corner of my workbench (from underneath).  I glue 120 grit paper to it with spray-on contact cement.  I start off with a couple of rough cuts by feel on the edge that will need the most cut off, holding the frame like a pencil.  Then I use my adjustable protractor to check how close my angle is, making more cuts and adjusting my grip as needed.  As I near the “uncut” edge I check the angle again.  Etc.  This also works great when finessing the chocks.
 

Sept. 30, 2011.  I discovered that the toprail contour for Atalanta is different from the prototype.  It is lower fore, the same midships and higher aft.  The bowsprit is also at a slightly different angle.  Initially I thought that the plans had become distorted in the copying process but after taking several measurements I was convinced there was no error.  I also noticed that the fore shape of the stem is different towards the keel. 

The second and third hawser timbers have been placed.  All the hawse holes will be reshaped during the final fairing.  In the last picture you can see the temporary spacers placed in the airspace.  It always amazes me how something that looks hard is deceptively easy and something that looks easy is actually quite difficult.  As an example, the airspaces and hawse holes
looked tough to me but were easy.  But mounting the hawse timbers square, plumb and at the correct angle is very difficult.  I measured across the timbers at the airspace and full breadth lines and am shy be a scale inch.  I will make that up in the fourth timber. 

Hawse timber 2 installed

 
 
Hawse timber 3 installed
 
 
 

SIGH ... ( a very long silence) ... That is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship you show on that block! You surprise me again, and again. I've been watching the pictures of that block silently for at least five minutes ................

1st Construction stage - Stern part
posterior third of the ship with all the equipment and view of the interior the model
 
Karl
 
 
 
 
 
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 47 – Well and Shot Lockers
Posted 2/7/11
 
 
The decking of the orlop started in the last part could not be completed until all the beams were installed and before installing the last two of these the well and shot locker structure had to be made and installed. The first strp in making this is shown below.
 

 
First two copies of the elevation view of the structure were placed on pieces of Homasote board and lengths of 6 X 6 timber were fastened in the locations of the four columns. These were made longer than needed to allow them to be pinned to the boards at their ends. Both sides of the well/shot locker structure were built simultaneously, so there were two of these layout boards. This picture also shows the specially cut top planks for one side, which would be the first to be installed.
 
The next picture shows the first of the 2.5 inch thick planking being glued to the columns.
 

 
Two of these were glued at a time and were held against their neighbors and down with pins. The caulking line between planks was done by a method I believe I described earlier and one that has now become my standard for planking caulk lines. The planking stock is coated with raw umber acrylic designers gouache on one side so that when the planks are ripped off one edge is dark. They are then glued with dark glue made by working raw umber artist’s pigment into ordinary yellow glue.
 
The next picture shows this effect on one of the sides, which has also been partially treenailed.
 

 
The treenails are 1” (.016”) bamboo. This picture also shows the back bracing for the door to be installed on the starboard side. Planks would be glued to these (but not the columns) to build the doors. This is a convenient way to assure the fit. These overlength door braces would be cut off later.
 
Except for the space taken up by the door, all sides of this structure between the orlop and lower decks was constructed with ventilation louvers. Side frames for these were dadoed on the milling machine at 30 degrees by the process used earlier for magazine ladders. Some of the machined sides and some 1” X 8” slats are shown in the next picture before being cut to size and installed
 

 
The next picture shows the louver construction in progress.
 

 
First the two vertical frames were dry fit into place and two slats were cut so that when slipped into their groves the sides would be pushed against the columns. When this was fit up the pieces were removed then replaced with glue and aligned. The rest of the slats were then glued into their slots.
 
The next picture shows the louvers installed in the two side assemblies. The louvers in the fore and aft faces will be done after all the walls are assembled. This also shows the planked up door.
 

 
The next picture shows a close up of the port side wall assembly.
 

 
The four fore and aft partitions were made by edge gluing planks on waxed paper then cutting the panels square on the circular saw. These were then glued to their columns to form the four-sided structure, which is shown below.
 

 
The door hinges wire made from copper wire and small pieces of brass plate. This method was described earlier in the section on the magazine light room shutters. The door latch was another small plate, with a ringbolt. All were chemically blackened and glued on with CA. These pieces are too small for bolts – at least for me.
 
Note the square notches on the top planks. These fit against and under the orlop deck beams. Before laying out the side wall assemblies, and again after removing them from the pattern, the space between these beams was double checked to make sure this would all fit snuggly. The assembly is very slightly oversized at the bottom to allow for trimming to fit tightly between the lower side of the orlop beams and the limbers strakes on the bottom. The lower part of the transverse panels will also have to be shaped to fit over the keelson. All of this will covered in the next installment.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed
 
 
Copyright 2013 Edward J Tosti

Carl thanks for the link, neat stuff.
 
Sinan, thanks
 
Elia Glad you like the rope I have been practicing today.
 
I made some more rope today with the machine horizontal, both RH and LH .
 

 
All made from embroidery thread
 

 
The 3/8 rope is 3 strands
The 1/2 inch is 6 strands
The 1 inch is 12 strands
 
more pics of the rope walk mod on the tools thread.
 
Michael
 
 

Hi friends
 
Teil 6  von 8
 
Thanks to all for the kinds words and comments.
 
Danke an alle für die freundlichen Worte und Kommentare.
 
Regards Karl

and the last group of 7

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Building Board, Keel Assembly, Stem, Deadwood, Knee of the Head, Mounting

Thanks Ben. With the hawse timbers in place, now comes time for the fwd cant frames. As I was looking for photo's to redo the log, came across some that I don't even think I put on the old log. It shows the fitting of the cant frame's but using a jig that Longridge did when he was building his Victory, in his book, the Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. You can see his jig on page 40. Mine is just a little bit different but the credit belongs to him.  Also one thing you will notice is that the hawse timbers have been sanded down and are now  smooth on the inside. With the build up of the cant frames, things were faired as more cant frames were added.The jig also helped me get the bevels right on the cant's them self. What  you can't see on the templates is the markes for the aligning up the placement of the frames them self's.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 36 – Forward Magazine 4
Posted 12/31/10
 
 
By Christmas the deck areas of the forward magazine were pretty well completed. The next step was to construct the fore and aft waterproof bulkheads. The base structure for the forward bulkhead, which separates the filling room from the light room is shown below after the window was constructed.
 

 
These bulkheads were 2.5” thick, of planks that were lapped and then covered with 1.5” X 3” planks on top of the joints on both sides. Since the 2.5” plank joints would be invisible, the bulkheads were made from a single wide sheet of 2.5” boxwood.
 
The windows were made as follows: First the full opening was cut in the boxwood sheet. The main window frames were then cut and fit into place with a boxwood post in between the two main window panels – which are not the same size. A single rectangle of clear plastic sheet was then fit into each open space. I am not sure of the material. It was cut from the clear covers used on office binders. It is resistant to acetone and ethanol, but adheres to CA. Nice qualities. The outer frame of the window mullions, about 1” square, were then glued around the perimeter of each opening on both sides to retain the glazing. So far all this was glued with Titebond. The 9 vertical pane mullions were then cut and gently force fit into place on both windows. When spaced and aligned, the joints with the frame were touched with thin CA. Some of this, of course ran down between the verticals and the glass. When dry, a 1” notch was cut out of each vertical at the center to fit the horizontal mullion. This was then pressed in and the joints touched with CA. The windows were then cleaned as well as possible with acetone (for the CA) and ethanol (for the Titebond). They still look like they need a cleaning, but are not too bad considering where they are located.
 

 
In this picture the forward bulkhead is being test fit. The planking up the angled port side remains to be completed. I was not happy with the tub and it would soon come out to be replaced.
 
In the next picture the part of aft bulkhead base panel is being fit up.
 
 

 
It was then attached to the aft end of the assembly.
 

 
These bulkheads needed to be installed so the side panels and their stanchions as well as the partition between the pallet area and the filling room would have good support at their ends. In the next picture the supporting pillars for the aft bulkhead are being installed.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has been glued on up the port side and the forward bulkhead is being glued on.
 

 
During all these steps the assembly was indexed at its correct position using pins, two of which can be seen at the aft ends of the wing panels sills.
 
The next picture shows the whole assembly back on the bench.
 

 
In this picture the horizontal battens have been installed on the fore side of the aft bulkhead and both sides of the fore bulkhead, which also has posts to support the light room sides installed on its fore face. Two loose pallets have been placed in the area as well. The side planking has been leveled off and awaits treenailing.
 
The last picture shows the assembly back in place in the hull.
 

 
Before any further construction, the assembly needed to be attached to the orlop beams at the tops of the two bulkheads. This would provide a better means of indexing and would assure that final installation would fit well with both the orlop beams, which support the tops of the bulkheads, and also the magazine lower beams, which of course, need to fit tightly on the thickstuff below. Attachment to these beams will be covered in the next part.
 
Happy New Year
 
Ed

Hi Anja,
 
It works fine on my Mac and iPad. But what might be confusing is if a picture doesn't fit on the page it's moved to the next page but the box around it is showed on the previous page, suggesting a blank picture.
 
So the third big picture in part one is on page 7.
 
Okay, here's three little mast, the foremast is complete, I just need to blacken the bolts. And for the mizzen mast there is a span to be fitted, but I'm struggling the get a 2" rope served properly, still need to work on my skills there...
 

 
Remco
 
 

November 22, 2011
 

 

 

 

 

 
November 23, 2011
 

 

 
November 25, 2011
 

 

 

...more....

While completing Hannah I decided to start thinking about my next project.  I thought I would mast Hannah but after completing the fore lower mast it became obvious that this was too tall for my pre-existing display cabinets.  (I have all my ships in a large glass and mahogany cabinet rather than in individual
cases.  This arrangement is not air tight but takes up much less space. 
 
I decided to try my hand at a Swan class, a 16 gun sixth rate sloop.  There are several advantages to this selection:  the research has already been done, plans are available, the ship is not too large and (most importantly) there are four volumes of wisdom from David Antscherl and Greg Herbert.  I already own David’s Mylar plan and CD.  The next decision was which one of the ships to select.  There are kits for Fly and Pegasus.  Some of the ships had too few
plans available from the National Maritime Museum (NMM).  Therefore I selected Atalanta.  Atalanta was a Greek huntress and wrestler.  The most notable
story about her was that she agreed to marry the man who could outrun her in a race; but if she won, the suitor was killed. So much for mythology!

Atalanta did not have much of a career.  She was launched on August 12, 1775 from Sheerness dockyard.  She was involved in one action on May 28,
1781 and was captured by the American ship Alliance off the coast of Nova Scotia.  She was recaptured by the British off Cape Cod a few weeks later and was eventually sold and broken up in 1802.

I sent away for plans from the National Maritime Museum and ordered my wood from Jeff at HobbyMill.  I will be using Costello boxwood and possibly some other hardwoods for accents.  The wood is gorgeous.  Jeff has developed a wood package for a Swan build which will eliminate hours of “fun” at the thickness sander.  (Ask for an extra sheet of wood (scale 6") for the hanging and lodging knees unless you want to thickness down one of the thicker sheets.)

I do not have a lot of spare time but I am hopeful that I can complete the model within five years.  It will not be masted.  I have not decided about hull and deck planking.  I figure that I have a few years before I need to worry about these decisions!
 
Toni
 
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Author:  dvm27

Terrific choice, Toni.  For those unfamiliar with Atalanta there is a lovely model of her in the NMM built in the Georgian
style.  It may be viewed at:  http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/explire/object.cfm?ID=SLR0340&picture=2#content

Greg

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July 24, 2011.  The first thing to address was the building board.  This was made with ¾ inch MDF and given a couple of coats of Kilz.  After sanding it smooth, the centerline and the fore and aft dimension lines were drawn in and scribed.  A copy of the plan was glued to the building board.  The mirror image was obtained by copying the Mylar from the reverse.  I used Elmer’s poster glue as it allows for removal of the plan without damaging the building board if I decide I don’t like having the plan on the board.  The hull dimensions will be roughly 25 x 7 inches.
 

 
Now to begin making some sawdust!  The keel pieces were cut on the Preac and the scarf joints were made with chisels.  I have never used chisels before and am still getting the hang of them.  The key is sharpness of the tool.  In TFFM it is recommended to make cuts on a flat piece of hardwood.  I am using an old acrylic cutting board from the kitchen which has been sanded dead flat and is knife friendly.
 

 
Joints below waterline are lined with tarred flannel.  I used black paper which I already had for another purpose.  I tested it first in a mock-up to make sure the color did not bleed with either the glue or the finish.  I plan on using Watco’s Danish Wood Oil, which gives an almost dead-flat finish.
 
Toni

Your very welcome Ron and thank you Joe. Here are some photo's of her keel, stem, stern post and deadwood along with her apron and building board. A couple of the photo's show the templates that were used to construct the parts and pieces.