druxey

Thanks guys....Had a lot of fun and will be back this evening...
 


 
One Note
 
I was contacted while away with an issue about frame 2F.   Its really weird because I cant replicate this.  My laser files for this 3/16" thick top timber shows the correct part for the top timber.   No worries though.  This is an easy fix.  I have not been contacted by any others so it may even be a one off thing.  But if you have the same issue.  Just send me a PM or an email and I will send you a new set of top timbers for 2F right away.  
 
Dont reply here .....send me an email or PM!!!!  Include your name and address info as well.   I will ship immediately.   I will cut a whole bunch when I return and have them ready to ship just in case anybody else has this same issue.
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Isaiah, that's what I meant to say in one of these messages. I am aware of Vanguard's good design, but that can't be replicated in a home shop without some kind of ludicrously expensive and massive CNC machine. 
Fun fact: paper is, in fact, a 3-dimensional object. 

If this isn't the worst mock up you've ever seen, stop lying to yourself. 
My main goal in doing this was to determine whether any of the frames were too wide, and they aren't. My precise measurements earlier in the build paid off. Now, I just have to disassemble this thing without ripping the paper. 

Superb work, as ever!

Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!

Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!

Superb work, as ever!

Superb work, as ever!

@Thukydides
Thank you for your nice comment, and everyone else for the many LIKES.
 
 
Equipment of the main royal yard – Vergue de grand cacatois
The royal yards are on the 4th floor of the rigging. Since these yards on the La Créole were obviously equipped with lifts and braces, it can be assumed that they were already an integral part of the ship's rigging. In contrast, until the end of the 18th century, the royal sails were often hoisted together with the yards and flown as fair-weather sails only when necessary, i.e. without braces and lifts.
To carry out the tyes for the royal yards of La Créole, I have photos of the original model at my disposal, which a restorer from the Musée de la Marine in Paris kindly photographed in the depot especially for me.
You can't see much in the following picture of a royal yard of the Paris model, except that the tye is somehow knotted and doesn't have a hook like that of the togallant yards.
 

Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris – La Créole
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

In conjunction with the depiction of a royal yard from the Atlas du Génie Maritime and various other examples, the tyes may have looked like this.
 

 
My model implementation or interpretation of the tye ø 17 mm (ø 0.35 mm in model scale) for the main royal yard looks like this:


Next I made the parral. The royal yards receive a slightly simpler version of a parral, only served with ropes, without leather covering.


This was followed by the production of the single blocks for the royal yards. These were used to guide the clew lines - The clew lines for the main royal sail had a diameter of 11 mm (in the model scale ø 0.23 mm), accordingly the blocks were around 13.5 cm long (in the model scale approx. 2.8 mm) according to the table in the monograph .



After attaching the grommets as abrasion protection, the equipment of the main royal yard was completed by attaching the braces and lifts.

We then continue with the fore royal yard.
Sequel follows …

Thing is, it's dusty as hell, obscured by a bunch of bubble wrap and unused lengths of baseboard and cardboard floor covers for painting and sheetrock and even more baseboards. I'm not even sure it's been used in my lifetime. It'll be interesting to try out, though. Assuming it even works, it's the only power tool I'll need, save for a drill. 

Alright guys, here are the rest of the keel frames. 

There are only four more frames to do, and those will be the stempost frames. I might take a different design path for those, as the modified semicircle shape won't suffice for a frame with a significant length and very little width. After I'm done making the frames, I'll cut them and the false keel out and slot them together to see if I'm happy with the overall hull shape. 

This is one of the only good views of the deck of the Lizzie Annie, apart from the obstruction of the bow by the massive genoa sail. 

Look at the distinct absence of a cockpit. The designers worked around this by angling the tiller upward. This boat is small enough to be controlled by a man on the tiller, rather than requiring tiller gear. For that reason, I might be making the executive decision to exclude the cockpit on the Devin Collins. The main reason for this is to avoid unnecessary complications in the build, and simplify the framing. The lack of a cockpit leaves more room for other things on the boat, such as crates of ale or books for the deckhands to read while they wait for a large windjammer to enter the Bristol Channel. 
 
This cutter has a very small cockpit and no deckhouse:

 
While this cutter has no cockpit and a tiny deckhouse:

 
The recurring theme I notice in the realm of pilot cutters is a distinct lack of uniformity. 
 

This is the newly designed false keel, based on the revised drawings of the profile view of the cutter. 

Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.

Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.

Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.

Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)

Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)

Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)

Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)

1.  You do not make it easy when not identifying the class and year of Echo.
2.  If you are at all serious about 18th C. RN vessels and aim at authenticity you should own a copy of Yedlinsky.
 
18 gun sloop of war:
Floor timber   :      Every other floor timber to be bolted through the main keel  - bolt dia. = 1"
Keelson          :      To be square  =  12" x 12"
                             exclusive of what is let down between the floors which may be = 7/8"
                             Scarphs in length   =  4' 6"
                             The keelson bolts should be driven through and carefully clenched on the underside of the main keel dia.  = 1"
                             Excepting where the rabbet for the plank is taken out in the middle.  There, they come through and clench on the underside of the keel that is coaked to the  main keel.

The belfry: technical implementation tests:
 



 
Final version in ebony wood:

Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.

Even dry docks would need a slight slope for drainage, would they not?

Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.