druxey

I try to section off the model into small *projects*...to make it progress faster(in my mind).
Preplanning pays of in great dividends.  Once I know where I'm going and what is next.....I plan for it, and then execute it.  Still have to add the venting between the stanchions.  But moving along to the starboard side.
 
Thanks for checking in and for the fine comments.
 
Rob

I added the straight copper vent pipes between the stanchions.  
 
Rob

I've been reviewing the Staffordshire, and her forecastle is exactly how we envisioned for Staghound.  With the patent Windless on the deck below the topgallant forecastle deck forward.
With double companionways (left, right) leading down.  Short of the minimal tonnage differences between Staghound, Flying Cloud and Staffordshire...I'd say McKay was simply replicating the good functionality of the design.
 
Again, thanks for your continued support and evaluations.
 
Rob

Chris that’s just a template. That’s not the finished piece. I haven’t started working on that as yet

These are the gaps I was referring to:

 
In the book you can see that there are no gaps:

This is a copy from the book so it is correct.

Getting to the completion of the forecastle

Not only great craftsmanship, but also great drafting, Ilhan!

Not only great craftsmanship, but also great drafting, Ilhan!

Skylight and companion at the back. Again acrylic, pear and brass.
























 
 

The last cabins.






 

The chainwales:
No details are discernible in the Brueghel painting. Chainwales aren't even visible for the fore-shrouds.
 
My interpretation:
The main shrouds are attached to chainwales, while the fore-shrouds simply have their wales reinforced at the lower edges of the forecastle. Its bent side makes wide chainwales unnecessary. The shrouds still run freely from the side.

 

Bonnets were used instead of reef points, Claire. Neat work on those sails.
 
I'm so sorry about the loss of your friend Ken.

More progress! Added the floorboard cleats, mast step, rudder gudgeon pad, rowlock pads, and rub rails. So far everything is still looking good, aside from the chain plate slots I put in the wrong place. Lesson learned, always make sure you're using the imperial side of the ruler when measuring in inches. The metric side will not work! lol  But a little glue in the holes fixed it right up and shouldn't be noticeable after painting. Also, I know the cleats alongside the dagger board case are a little short, but it's because I thought I only had one 3/16" X 1/8" wood strip. After discovering there was more than one, I considered redoing it, but then decided it would probably be fine.

Made some more progress. Got the inwales, bow and stern quarter knees, frames, and thwart frames in and the bow and stern transoms sanded down to their profile. I did notice when sanding down the transoms that seemingly small imperfections and misalignments started to become not so seemingly small 😆. Some things might not be perfectly even, but I feel like it's still going well overall. As much as I strive for perfection, I just have to remind myself it's all about having fun and learning how to be a better builder!

Adding the stanchions.  
 
Rob

Slow going, but still progressing. I had to deal with jury duty this week, plus trying to deal with some work related bureaucratic junk. But, the worst thing was losing another ship modeling friend, just about three weeks ago. Just saw the guys two days before he died at a local ship model meeting. His name was Ken Lum, an NRG member. He was a great guy at the meetings. Hadn't built a ship model in, I don't know, 20 years or more. But, he was always very up to date on the ship modeling hobby news, and knew something about EVERYTHING, so he was always a big part of any historical or ship model discussion. I'll miss him very much for quite some time I think.
 
As for the yacht Mary, work continues. I finally finished making the sails, including the bonnet on the mainsail. Some blocks have been added, bowlines, etc. Sewing machine is now put away, and I'm ready to rig.
 

I've got some sheet blocks to add to the staysail and the mainsail, then I'll bend the mainsail. 
 
In the meantime, one thing confuses me a bit. I know the Mamoli/Dusek plans call for parrals to be added to the main gaff jaws, but I don't see any on the photos of the Utrecht replica that Baker posted (post #17), nor do I see any on Ab Hoving's English royal yacht model. Is this something the Dutch didn't bother with on such a small vessel? Like omitting ratlines as they were unnecessary?
 
And, before I add the sails, I'm now thinking again about reef points. The Utrecht replica has them on the mainsail. But, as Druxey pointed out, they don't seem to appear in paintings of the period. I'll give it some more thought, but still leaning towards leaving them off.
 

Richard,
 
I have used optical fibres to light the interior of my 1805 schooner model in 1/64. The period and scale are quite different but optical fibres have properties that are useful or a pain, depending on what you are trying to achieve. One is that they leak light if you bend them too much so they have to be routed carefully. A second is that if you roughen the surface the light also leaks out. This might be what you need to simulate your fluorescent tubes. 

 
I have used 1mm diameter plastic fibre and arrange seven fibres in a hex pattern to face a 3mm diameter LED. The fibres enter the model through brass tube stands (3mm internal diameter) so they are invisible. This also leaves electronics and solder joints outside the model so they remain accessible. 
 
The fibres are readily available on Ebay and cheap so a bit of experimenting could give you a solution. 
 
George
 

Get well soon.  I've been there - done that 4 times in the past ... twice with laser lithotripsy in each ureter (catheter required for recovery), and twice with ultrasound in the kidneys (required slant inversion to pass all the 'gravel').  Since mine were calcium stones, a potassium citrate pill twice a day (to increase solubility of calcium oxalate) , plenty of hydration (to maintain diluted urine) and limiting foods containing significant oxalic acid has kept stone formation at bay for 7 years so far.  

Today work :

Here are all the full frames together - I think there is an unwritten rule that they need to be stacked up and photographed at this point:

Upper deck beams beginning :


 

Ciao, and thanks al all ☺️
I finished sanding the hull  

Another time, you might want to consider using SilkSpan....

Very nicely done. It 'turned' out well!