Erebus and Terror

You can't imagine how good this makes me feel getting these somewhere like that should be, at one point I was thinking off leaving the model completely as they were driving me nuts trying to figure out the angles

Regards
Paul
 

I bought the Occre kit from Ages of Sail today here in the States...should arrive next week.  It is a retirement gift to myself and I plan to work on it beginning later this year.  It appears to be a good buy.  I have been fascinated by HMS Terror and HMS Erebus since doing a report on them back in junior high school in the early 70's.  And now I have a kit on the way to my house.  None of this would have been possible without you and your simply amazing work.  Thank you so, so much.  I'm sure I will get a lot of enjoyment from this.

Also, if you like to drink coffee, and like free stuff, you might want to check out my blog.
 
 
 
 
 

LASER CUTTING TERROR’S BULKHEADS
 
I have arrived at the stage of my build where I am assembling the bulkheads that will give shape to the ship’s hull. I have already created bulkheads for this model using the traditional method – gluing the plans to plywood and cutting them out using a scroll saw. 
 

The old bulkheads - cut using a scroll saw (prior to sanding). 
 
However, I recently decided to change the way I will construct the bow of the model. I had originally modified the forward stations to account for the extra bolsters and planking at the bow, but I've recently decided to try to build these fittings (as a means to determine how Rice actually reinforced Terror against the ice). This necessitated rebuilding the two most forward station bulkheads. 
 
And this gave me an excuse for a whole new mini-project.
 
Following a current trend, my local public library recently opened a prototyping studio, which includes design software, 3D printers, and an Epilogue Mini 24 Laser Cutter. The library allows you to book the equipment for several hours each month - for free. I've wanted to experiment with a laser cutter for some time, and since I needed to make new bulkheads anyway, I decided to recut all of them. My hope was that it would result in a more accurate build.
 

The Epilogue Mini 24 Laser Cutter. The bed capacity is 12" x 24". 
 
The cutter works very much like a traditional printer and will engrave (raster) or cut (vector) based on the thickness of the lines shown in the image file (I used high resolution PDFs for this). My first attempt, using factory recommended settings, was somewhat of a disaster, resulting in charred and smoldering wood and unusable pieces (plywood is notoriously difficult to cut because of its inconsistent composition).
 

My first disastrous attempt. Note the burned and charred edges.
 
For my second attempt, I conducted some tests and determined the proper power settings needed to cut 5mm plywood with the thinnest, most accurate, cuts and a minimum of charring and burning [1].
 

As a test, I cut a series of discs with different power settings. 
 

The appearance of the cut edge with the proper settings (no charring). 
 

I engraved the station markings on each bulkhead.  The machine automatically engraves before cutting.
 

The bulkheads being cut. 
 

You can tell the cut was successful if the part drops away from the sheet.
 

A finished sheet. 
 

Each bulkhead fits into slots on the false keel. 
 

The bulkheads slide snugly into place.
 

Test assembly proceeds. This is just a dry -fit. 
 

The bulkheads dry-fitted in place. They need to be properly aligned, but I'm
happy with the run already. Mini-Crozier allows us to visualize how large
Terror actually was (quite small for a Royal Navy vessel).
 

A view from the bow.
 

This view shows the run of the ice channels very nicely.
 

A top-side view from the stern. The bulkheads are just dry-fitted
here and will need to be aligned properly before gluing. 
 
I am very pleased with my experience using the laser cutter. The bulkheads are much more accurate than I could have produced by hand, and the process took about a tenth of the time normally required to cut and sand these parts. I will certainly be using it again when I need to cut more complex shapes and components for my build. 
 
Footnotes:
[1] For those interested, low speed, power, and PPI settings are a must, and the recommended wood settings for the Epilogue Laser will not work on plywood. Your goal should be a setting that will just barely cut completely through the wood, as this results in the thinnest cuts and edges that are browned, but not charred. My settings for good quality 5mm birch plywood were: Speed = 10, Power = 38, and PPI(Frequency) = 150.

Wonderful review! Thank you! Hope you like the build! 

Wonderful review! Thank you! Hope you like the build! 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

It just so happens that today (August 10th 2018) is the 204th anniversary of the Battle of Stonington, a battle in which HMS Terror participated.  Stonington CT is directly adjacent to Mystic Ct, home of the superb Mystic Seaport Museum. 



The sunken wreck of HMS Terror was recently located.

It was your thread that got me going all in on this Terror thing. As mentioned elsewhere I came across your thread here and on Building HMS Terror .
Shortly after this (a week or two) I stumbled over the book by Dan Simmons and then the TV series (where they hired you as historical advisor I believe it was)
... And two weeks later Occre released the kit...
So, I read your blogg, listened to the audiobook, seen the series, read the book and building the model
 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

Wonderful review! Thank you! Hope you like the build! 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

Thanks for the wonderful review. While I wasn’t involved with the design of the kit, it is based on my original research and plans from my ongoing Terror build:
 
Those interested in the ship may want to check it out.
 
Also, Ages of Sail has a pretty fantastic starter package on sale now with the kit, which includes a complete set of tools, including a plank bender, for less than $300, if I recall.
 
Thanks for again for the review!
 

I believe that Ages of Sale, one of the sponsors of this forum has the model, but they may be out of stock, it's been a couple of weeks since I checked on it. Let us know you opinion on the kit when you get it, very interested in your findings,
 
Ed

I found the Occre kit from a shop in England and ordered it on Monday. I see they scaled it down to 1:65 or something there about. I have not seen this kit for sale in the USA yet.

I did not check Ages of Sail specifically. Rather, I did a Google search for kit vendors. They may very well have it. But the cost with shipping from England was quite reasonable I thought, a grand total of just $138.
I'll post some photos of the kit contents once I receive it.

I'll have a review of that for you by the close of Saturday. 

Thank you gentleman.  Planking continues.
 
I have completed 4 of the 9 strakes.  Each strake has two sections. A forward and an aft plank.  For the first 3 strakes working up from the keel, I started at the stern post and then added the bow section of the strake.  Each section is made a bit longer after adjusting the ends that tuck into the rabbet.  You need to cut the ends to length so they fall on a frame.  When placing the second plank in each strake, you must cut it to length so it butts into the first cleanly and tightly.  

But now that I am working on the fourth strake I have switched and start at the bow.  The aft section of planking can now be run off the transom and sanded flush later.  You might see in the photos that I have yet to sand the last section of the fourth strake on one side.  I will continue up to the shear in this fashion.  Only five more strakes to go.  But even when you havent planked in a year it does come back to you quickly and get easier with each strake.
 
Here are some photos of how it looks today.  These photos show the Alaskan Yellow cedar really well.  
 

Now as I mentioned, this project will have pre-spiled planks.  There will be no reason for anyone to line off the hull and spile the planks themselves.  But I still need to do it.  So if anyone is interested I will post that process here with some photos.  Even though this is just a small longboat vs a large frigate, the hull must be lined off for planking and I must create a plan to follow before I cut any wood for planking.  The method described below is the same thing I did for Cheerful and it will be the same thing I do for the Winchelsea.  The one difference however, is there will not be a need to split this hull into two or three belts of planking.  Its size dictates that the entire hull will be treated as just one belt of planking.  
 
Step one is the easy part,  after doing some research to determine the correct width for your planking you must decide how many strakes will fit at mid ship (dead flat).  This will be different depending on the subject you are modeling but once you look at steele or whatever sources....you can make that determination.  For the longboat,  I have decided that it will have 9 strakes.  This is typical for these boats.  Some have 8.....and some have 10.  But this one will have 9 strakes.
 
Step 2....
Cut some thin tick strips from paper.  Hold them along the edge of the frames.  You will need to mark the overall length of the frame from the keel rabbet to the sheer.  Its very easy to do.
 

Step 3...Take that tick strip and lay it on top of your planking fan.  Because we know that this area will need to be split evenly into nine planks, its just a matter of sliding down the fan until it fills the space up.  Then mark the strip with tick marks.  The black horizontal lines on the planking fan were just put there so I have some reference to help me keep the strip level rather than angled.
 

Step 4 ..Take that strip back over to the same frame and transfer all those tick marks onto the frame edge.
 

All of the frames have been marked except for the htree frames at the bow and the three frames at the stern.

 
Now you shouldnt do this to every frame.  You should repeat this exercise for every frame except  for the last three aft and the first three forward frames.  Those three frames on each end of the hull are tricky.  There is a much easier and accurate way to determine the run of the planks for these areas.  Consider for example that at the bow, each remaining frame may not even contain all 9 strakes.  So measuring their length and dividing by nine doesnt work.  
 
This next step will not only allow you see the run of the planks at the bow and stern, it will also let you double check that the tick marks you just made on all of the other frames are correct.  You will soon be able to make adjustments to those as well.  This is exactly what I do on every hull before planking.
 
Step 5....Use some thin strips of black tape to visually create the run of the nine strakes.  I bought some typical black art tape that was very sticky.  Its like black masking tape.  I cut very thin strips from it about 3/64" wide.  These were used on the hull to determine the run of every strake.  I do half of the hull at a time.  First the aft side. Then from mid-ship to the bow.  Make sure there is no dust on the frames so the tape strips stick really well.   Some people prefer to use string that is glued to each frame.  Use whatever method works best for you.  I like the tape because it is easily re-positioned.
 
I used the tick marks I just made on each frame to position the thin tape strips.  I worked my way aft from mid-ship until I reached those last three frames with no tick marks on them.  Basically I "just eyeball it".  I just continue running the tape onto each frame in what I think is the natural and correct path for that plank.  DONT WORRY.....REST ASSURED THAT IT WILL BE ALL WRONG.  But after you place all of the tape for the nine strakes on the hull like this, you will be able to see where its screwed up.  You can carefully adjust each tape line until everything looks good.  Adjust and tweak until the tape runs smooth and graceful across those last three frames and right off the edge of the model.  Take your time with this.  Adjust them mid-ship as well because you will be able to see where some of your tick marks were wrong.
 
Than take a sharp pencil and mark the edge of the tape to create the reference lines on those three last frames.  Also do that for any corrected marks mid ship.
 
Aft side...
 

 
At the bow...
 

 
It is a lot harder to describe this process in writing than it is to actually do it.  This didnt take that long and spending this time makes it much more likely that your planked hull will look right.  So if you have any questions let me know.  Its much easier to show how to do this in person.  Next I will describe how I take the marks on each frame and convert them into an actual spiled plank.  Maybe this Sunday
 
 
 

Today I glued the keel onto the frames.   You want to have a cup of water and a paint brush handy before you begin.  This is used to clean the excess glue from the joints after the keel is placed on top of the frames.  Before you begin, make sure that all of the frames are facing the correct direction.  The lettered frames face one way and the numbered frames face the other way.  I also recommend tat you do a few dry test runs before using the glue.  We are basically starting with the stern half of the frames first.  Practice placing the keel into position.  You will quickly discover that all of the frames are not lined up perfectly with their intended notches in the keel.  You will need yo work them in one direction or the other until the keel slips into all ten notches. 
 
Doing a few dry test runs will let you know which frames you will need to tend to once the glue is added.  Dont rush it.  You will have plenty of time to do this and tweak each frame if need be.  I found it easier to place a generous dab of glue on the end of the frames rather than in each slot of the keel.  Once seated properly clean off the excess glue and leave it to dry.
 

Once that dries, it will be time to slide the forward ten frames under the keel and repeat the same process.  Absolutely do a dry run with this.
 

Once that glue dries, flip over the model and tape the two halves of the build board together along the joint.  DONT glue it.  Use a generous length of tape and several pieces.  I like to use the reinforced tape with the string in it for added strength.
 

Then its time to fair the hull.  Its somewhat fragile as many of you who have built the other models like this will attest.  But it is pretty sturdy.  Use either 320 or 220 grit sand paper to fair the hull.  I wouldnt use a coarser grit because it will grab the frames and possibly split them etc.  But use a light touch and proceed slowly and carefully just like you would with any other fairing.
 
Here is my model after it was completely faired.  You can use the laser char on the edge of each frame as a guide as you continue fairing as well.


I mentioned earlier how another builder familiar with this type of model gave me a building tip.  He said to use the tape on each side of the frame to help strengthen it while you fair  the hull.  I can report that it was a big help and I recommend that you guys do it as well.  In addition, because so many people have built the pinnace , the original longboat or the barge, I have had many other tips and experiences shared.  One additional tip was really good.  In the photo below you can see a small 3/32" wide by 1/32" strip glued to each frame where the attachment is.  This is usually where the frame would break if you are a heavy-handed sander.  The scrap strip was glued with tite-bond.  It really made it sturdy and I didnt worry at all about splitting the little tab connecting the center of the frame.  Once I was done fairing the hull,  they were removed using either of these two methods.  You can apply some rubbing alcohol and let it just fall off with a little coaxing.  You could also just leave it there.  There will be a plank covering it inside and out and it wont be seen.  Just keep it to 3/32" wide or less.  It wont make it any more difficult to remove the frame centers later on.  I just used this strip on the five single frames but you could do it on all of them.  But its up to you.  I faired the hull with no breakage.  
 

 
Now its time to line off the hull and start planking!!!!!  YIPPEE 
 
 

I think she will be a pretty longboat.  If you recall,  there will be two options for assembly of the three keel parts.  The simpler version has the parts simply butt together and that is fine.  But for those who want to try a bit more ambitious joint, there will be some laser cut parts prepared with the beginnings of some lap joints.
 
I Have not removed any laser char from these pieces before "carving" and completing the lap joints.  In the photo below you can two of each part.  One shows the lap joint as prepared by the laser cutter.  The laser can not etch deep enough to complete the lap joint.  But you have the area laid out with precision so you only need to make it deeper.  You can remove the material until it is half the thickness on each side of the lap joint.  There are multiple ways you can do this depending on your skill level and what tools you have.  You could use a sherline mill for example.  In my case however,  I opted for the cheap yet effective sharp #11 blade.  I slowly sliced off little shavings until it was close to the correct depth.  Then I used a sanding stick to clean it up.

Periodically, I stopped shaving and slicing to check how the lap joints fit together.  The two photos below show the two lap joints test fit together.  Just a little more to do and clean up and I have it.  One thing I would caution you on is not to rush it.  Dont get "close enough" and then think you can sand the outsides flush after you glue them together.  This would be very bad.  You would see the weird twisted shape that would develop and the other slotted keel parts wouldnt fit onto it properly and that error of impatience would snowball as your project moves forward.  Keep in mind that these are extreme close-ups.....you can really see the wood grain.  But once the finish is applied....that will disappear.  I will take photos again once the remaining pieces are added and the bolts are added.  ut after the glue dries on these three parts,  I will sand the laser char from the edges and clean it up.
 


 
and once again, here is a comparison of the two options for assembling the three keel sections.  The slotted parts will be added as soon as I clean it all  up.  You might also notice my change to the stern post so the model will use the more historically accurate method to attach the rudder.  The older photo is below and those changes arent shown.
 

 

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Yes.....but I will be also including the shapes and templates for the spiled planks on the plans.....So its basically the same thing.   Either way, the starter package wont include them.  So anyone buying just the starter package will have to go through the process.   The laser cut planks will only be included in the full kit.  Hopefully many will just buy the starter package and take this great opportunity to try these techniques for the very first time.   The starter package will only be available for folks on MSW taking part in the group build.  It wont be available on my site.
 
The starter package will contain,
 
-Plans
-All frame parts
-The buildboard
-and stem and keel parts.