Pygothian
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Pygothian got a reaction from edmay in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
Wow! You are an absolute machine Popeye!
I love the staining job. I never knew colour could change the appearance so dramatically.
I'll be following this one with interest, watching you solve problems and scratch build is teaching me a lot!
Thank you
Rowan
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I figured while I was waiting, I might as well stain the stern cap rails to see what they would look like
the other ones weren't ready yet, so I decided to do the starboard side.
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
thanks Sherry and Edwin.........yes it is I hope to make a bit more, before I go back to the Gothenborg.
I had test fitted the stern rails earlier........I have a serious gap under the rail. to fill it, I made up a piece of curved plywood and will later sand it down to match the incline.
the stern rails are dry........and the curvature is good
and finally..........the interior is stained at last!
....more good stuff to come soon!
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
the doors as I mentioned, are missing in the kit........an entire sheet of parts is missing. the rigging sheet is 1:1 with the model, so I was able to trace the doors from the over view diagrams, on the other side of the sheet.
I cut them out from a left over piece of 1/16 flat stock.
I made a couple of extra, so I can select the better of them. there are two large doors and one small one......they were sanded and shaped. I intend to cover them with .5 X 2mm strip Annegre. the edges will be penned in.
once they were done, they will be trimmed and sanded. the outer edges will be done with the archive pen, and given the dark mahogany bars.
I took a couple of miniutes and used the scroll saw to cut the posts for the lower aft deck. there needs to be a beam along the underside of the deck......there is a noticeable curvature of the deck lip. it will also need to be pulled together......the walls sort of splay outward.
the doors were cemented in place...when the interior is stained, they will be stained as well. then I can put some hardware on them then.
in preparation for the cap rails, the stern edge needs to be shaped with a curve. the ends were wet down and wedged between two glasses and allowed to dry.
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I finally got those recessed cabin bulkheads corrected........and yea......it wasn't easy. it went quickly though......and that was a plus, dispite having to sand them to shape and all. using the templates I traced earlier, the aft bulkhead planks were cut.
this one was made a bit easier, because of the opening in the deck above, trading the plank from one tweezer to another. then, the fore bulkhead.........
the two on the bottom have already been shaped a little. the top plank needed to have 1mm removed from the width.
now I can stain the interior. from there, I can the support posts for the aft deck, cap off the ends of the upper decks {to hide the ends of the plywood platforms}, and install the cap rails.
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I have done more planking to the other side, in order to even it out on both sides. I have done some tapering to the planks so far in the process. now that I'm reaching the chines, it will require more.
I don't know what the thought was in creating the ribs with such an edge at the chines. in past pictures of the hull frame, you can see just how much of an edge there is. this must be removed and rounded to compliment the contour of the hull below the water line.
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
the angle of the bulwark cuts and the way they are shaped, I will need to curve these planks to accept the top rail / pin rail {these two aspects are combined}. these parts are going to be a tough go......they are made of plywood and very stiff. note where the slots are.....rope stanchions are to be located in these slots.....too close to the ends to do an adequate bend. I have an idea for this, but I need these parts for refference.
note also, that on the parts sheet, that is all I have for the crow's nests. rather than make the missing parts and have it look odd, I'm going to scratch make all of the parts.......in this way, they will all be the same. this also will come in play later on. the starboard side stern wall is built up.
I had made the same parts for the port side wall.
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Pygothian reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
did a bit more in the last couple of days. they show the transom and counter planked in the next step. I had already cemented on the brackets for it, so I figured I'd do it before the planking.....it makes sense.
this bit of planking requires three different widths of wood .....4mm 5mm and 6mm for the bottom.
the 6mm is done in a diagonal pattern than the upper planks.....kind of a cool arrangement. the mid counter is the 5mm.......the upper part of the transom is the 4mm.
now that the planking is on there, it needs to be trimmed and sanded. I'll do some of it now, and the rest of it will be done when the frame is fared.
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Pygothian reacted to kscadman in US Brig Syren by kscadman - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - first wooden ship build
Gahm, looks like I have lots of downloading in my near future. Thanks for the "heads up"
Polygothian, The base is made from 1" x 1/4" basswood plywood that I cut to a rough length of 7". I sanded down some basswood strips to 1/16" thickness. Then I glued the strips of basswood to the base making sure that they were parallel and 1/8" from each other, this way I was able to get consistent size planks. The middle and bottom slot is for 1/8" x 1/16" planks and the one on top at the edge (when viewed in the pictures) is for 1/8" x 3/16" planks. I squared off 2 pieces of scrap basswood and glued them on the ends of the slots (the square and rectangular pieces in the middle) these were used as "stops". Its hard to see but if you look at where the stops are there are 2 holes drilled into a piece of clear plastic that I have nailed on top. These are used a guides to drill the treenail holes.
In picture 2 you can see how I inserted a plank into the middle slot. If a plank wouldn't fit in the slot then I knew it was too wide and if it had some "play" then I knew it was too thin and if it didn't butt flush with the stops then I knew it wasn't square on the end. Once it fit right then I used the holes in the clear plastic to drill the treenail holes, then I would turn the plank around and drill holes in the other end.
I hope this helps.
Richard
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Pygothian reacted to Sjors in San Ildefonso by Sjors - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:70
It takes still a little bit more then 116 months before I'm retired, I can do something in the spare hours that I have left……
The mast are done.
Everything is dry fit, so I can put all the stuff that's need on to the mast.
And no, not the shrouds and ratlines after that.
There is also a bowsprit that I have to do.
When that is done, I can go to the fun part
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Pygothian reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi Rowan,
Thank you for looking in and your kind comments. The Corel cross section is a nice model and I will look in on your build when your kit arrives and you start a log
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Pygothian reacted to augie in Treenail detail option?
The technique I've used is based on Chucks. Basically, you select a pin vise drill size that suits your scale and eye. It's important to try some samples on a scrap prototype deck before you commit. On a 1:64, about a #70 size hole looks good to me for treenails. I have used a #65 for keel bolts if you require those.
Line up your holes with a piece of tape to keep them straight. Be careful with the spacing. Drill the holes and then GENTLY clean/round them out with an awl, needle or other smooth, sharp object. Do NOT makes the holes any bigger. The choose your filler and determine the color beforehand. I use a tinted filler called 'Hobbylite' which is a light wood color. Force it into the drilled holes, wipe it off smooth before it dries and then let it set. A light sanding with something like 320 grit can be done when it's set. Then finish it along with the deck itself. I like them barely visible so that you are aware they are there yet not overpowering.
I can not emphasize enough making the trial runs off the ship until you are satisfied.
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Pygothian reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Gun port framing has been completed :
I used a spacer this time around to insure that the ports are all the same width and set at the correct angle. Everything was faired into the hull . Sanded and filed the inside of each port so they are basically ready for painting in a few days.
Next up is a rail amidships and some hances.
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Pygothian reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
Hy-ho-Victory-go :-)
Took some time while the last substancial entry. In the meantime I was fixing some sink marks ...
... and get the right material for the nettings, thanks Maurice!:
(in the background you can see the old flynet)
And then inally this weekend ...
... back to the end of the ship :-)
Got the balusters and decoration primed properly and had to think about replacing the feathers. As there is nothing to disdinguished at the Livesays drawing I draw the conclusion, that usually in the middle of the coat of arms should be a crown. This can also be seen at the side entrance. Bingo. So I had an idea what to build :-)
Then started the acentuation of the balusters of the stern: See the difference it makes as the not yet done part in the bottom left looks really flat.
Looks a little bit chaotic in this immense close-up, but at original size this gives a great effect of depth.
The coat of armes with the new made crown ...
(the white bits is to cover the original holes for the lamps which I realised a little bit too late)
... and of course the whole in one go :-)
Amicalement, Daniel -
Pygothian got a reaction from newbuilder101 in Mayflower by Sherry - FINISHED - Billing Boats - Scale 1:60 - first build ever
I've ordered the Syren from model expo, and the Corel Victory cross section. Just waiting for them to arrive.
I can't wait to start building the Syren, but the two or so weeks waiting has given me a lot of research reading, and butterflies.
Cheers
Rowan
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Pygothian reacted to augie in US Brig Syren by Augie - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
OK, we've played this tune before on the main mast but now we've moved forward! In spite of Sjors recent allegations, I did not 'forget' to rig the foremast.
The upper foremast shrouds, shear strips/futtocks, cleats, sister blocks and catharpins are complete. Even better, the last of the ratlines have been tied. I am stuck as to which title to bestow upon myself........'King of the Clove Hitch' or Edward Tweezerhands. Anja can now return!!!!
We shall now be moving on to the more sweeping aspects of the forward standing rigging. Looking forward to seeing the bowsprit once again
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Pygothian reacted to augie in US Brig Syren by Augie - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
That's about enough for me for today. What's posted so far took 800 hours in the shop ----- and doesn't fill up a page here!!
I'll pick up tomorrow with mast construction.
Just want to encourage everyone to get back on board if you can. We'll get the site back up to make us all feel proud again (once we survive the shock).
Best regards to all.
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Pygothian reacted to augie in US Brig Syren by Augie - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Stern davits and hammock nettings added.
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Pygothian reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Keith- I've always been afraid someone would ask that question . The old log was about 50 pages when it went down --- but in those days there were only 10 posts/page.
I don't really care about the # of pages although I know it annoys some people. I post as many photos as I can without being silly. With Syren it was about 135 photos. Confed will be more as I've learned what folks might like to see.
My logs are open to everyone and I welcome active participation. Those who don't care for our 'family' environment can choose not to follow. As Andy said earlier, all chances of this being a 'highbrow' log went out the window with the appearance of the first moose. Of course I'm part of the problem as I tend to care as much about the folks on here as I do about reporting that I glued stick 'A' into slot 'B'.
More pics in a day or so.
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Pygothian reacted to realworkingsailor in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
The way I look at it, it's a small price to pay for a simple upgrade that does wonders for the final appearance.
Andy
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Pygothian reacted to Jerry in HMS VICTORY by Jerry - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72 - 1805 version
The weekend is coming to a close and so is my ship yard. Here are some morepics of were I am and what's new. I'm making progress and feel I'm really getting the hang of things:
Have a great evening everyone.
Jerry
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Pygothian reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
The lintels for the gun ports on the main gun deck have been completed. I used 3/8" spacers to set the height. And our paper cannon has returned
And here's just a longer range shot
Will be moving on now to the sills and lintels for the ports on the quarter deck.
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Pygothian reacted to mtaylor in Model Expo Electric Plank Bender
I'm with Ulises, and am a big fan of the curling iron method. Just make sure you buy your own and don't take the Admiral's.
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Pygothian reacted to Ulises Victoria in Model Expo Electric Plank Bender
I have that same plank bender, but found later that this item works better and it's cheaper.
This curve was made without soaking the wood.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050QLCSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works better for me.
Our Emblem ®
