Yambo

Does anyone have this sander?

 

http://www.rockler.com/triton-oscillating-spindle-sander

That's pretty much the same as the one I've got on my list - the Scheppach HG580 - for sanding inside curves. 

I'm toying with the idea of making a thickness sander as well, copying somebody's design - it's here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8927-home-built-thickness-sander/

Well, that's the thing about boats Vaddoc, both full size and scale - the plans give you the designers ideas and dimensions for a basic boat but don't restrict you from doing your own thing during a build. 

You're not building Tad Roberts' boat, you're building your own from his plans, just as that team built their own depending on what they needed to use it for - extra stowage space for example.

When I was building my CLC Skerry I looked at lots of other boat builders' ideas but ended up building it as per the plans, both the full size one and the scale model I made.  It works, but it could be different. Knees or risers for the thwarts? Risers will be easier but it's your choice.  

Hi Vaddoc, just caught your build log for this nice looking boat! I have the same plans up in my 'to do' cupboard but other things keep getting in the way. I might get around to it sometime!

Interesting to see how you're approaching the build. Ages ago, or so it seems now, I found and put away some mahogany that I thought would be useful for the keel and I got my son, an aircraft sheet metal worker to make the centreboard out of a piece of aluminium. These bits are sitting around somewhere - but then so is a lot of stuff    .

Anyway, keep enjoying the build; I'll keep watching.  

I agree a mill is better but doesn't a cut off blade on the Dremel cause a sideways force?

 

Bob

It does, but it's always good to remember to let the cutting tool do the work and not apply too much pressure - whether it be cut off discs, saws or sandpaper.

As Grant said above Mark, a brave decision to scrap v1 and start over but it was a good one. It's looking grand!

Thank you Yambo Türkiye' de nerdensiniz ?

I live in Turunç, about 10 kms south of Marmaris, Bora. 

That's excellent Bora, thanks for sharing!

Teşekkür ederim!

 

As for my next project I'm tossing up between an RC square rigger or an RC 2 masted schooner called Altair, 

I have the plans for Altair up in my workshop cupboard - not sure if it'll ever get started let alone finished.  

She's beautiful Ilhan, very crisp and clean. Congratulations on finishing a perfect model.

I hope you are covering her, to keep the dust off. 

She looks fantastic in the water Michael, where she is meant to be. 

Looks like a launch and recovery trailer is necessary unless you build a dock and RC crane down at the lake.     

It's your choice Michael but white/off white is the colour of gelcoat. You haven't done gelcoat, have you. 

I personally favour a dark hull with maybe a bit of contrast trim.

I don't know why you're never going to be allowed to have a lathe at home Bettina but if you're going to spend nearly £100 on a small plane you shouldn't discount the Proxxon DB 250 lathe. 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Proxxon-Micromot-MICRO-Woodturning-Lathe/dp/B000PJ6W4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1399830989&sr=1-1&keywords=proxxon+db+250

It's not very big and I simply keep the hoover hose close by when I'm using it. 

To maintain historical accuracy you should contract the work out Ed!  

I'm following this all very closely by the way. I learn something from every post it seems. Thank you.

Is this an old Artesania Latina kit?

I have no idea where you'll get plans from but a chap called John H Earl did a practicum. That would be some help.  I think you can download it from here:

http://www.modelboatyard.com/

 

There is a strap which both reinforces the railing and gives an extra handhold :

 

 

  Danny

To me, that strap looks completely out of place Danny. I'm sure it's meant to be there but . . . well, it just looks wrong.   

That looks so much nicer than the laminations Michael. Lovely job!

My apologies Michael, now I've had a close look I can see the vertical scarph joint. When I looked earlier it looked like a butt joint and I was expecting to see one where the long cut line would be visible from the side, not from above (horizontal is not quite the word I'm looking for). I hesitate to give my opinion to one of MSW's master builders but if you could cut the corner sections from a sheet of the same wood rather than laminating it would give you a cleaner top finish as the corners will always look like a lamination joined to a solid rail. 

Would they not have  scarf joints on the cap rail Michael rather than a butt joint? Beautiful work all the same!

I'm sure you'll make good use of that new lathe Karl!

Have fun! I look forward to seeing some of the work done on it.  

 

2)  The hole through the table for the blade... does it have a ledge?  I'm thinking you'll want to make a zero (or at least a very small) clearance insert to go in there. 

 

 

My first thoughts . . .

Good review, thank you.

It's quiet where I live and I live alone. If I'm upstairs in my 'workshop' I hear nothing but if I'm downstairs, sometimes the only noise in the evenings is the sound of my neighbour playing with his two sons. It's a beautiful noise.

You can and will give your son many things, but he'll remember the time you give him more than anything. I guess he goes to bed fairly early at 4 years of age, leave the boat till he's asleep.  

I've bought things off the internet from Germany Bugra, I'll give them a try, 10 Euros isn't too bad and it may help stop sticking my fingers together lol

Congratulations Jack!

She looks beautiful, get her in a case before the dust starts collecting!

One thing to remember when building R/C some things don't scale. 

Like wind and waves! It's why you might need a bit of lead hanging on the bottom.

Good stuff though bucknbarney, I'm following along.

I am currently working on a plastic Connie (like lots of others...) and I am about to the point of replacing and gluing the plastic eyebolts with metal.  I am going to use 5 minute epoxy so was very happy to find this thread since I have never worked with it. 

 

Mark

5 minutes may be + or - Mark depending on temperature and other factors. As with all epoxy though, the key is in the mixing. It may take half an hour to go off completely so if what you are glueing is under tension forget the five minutes - treat that as usable time - and clamp up as you would with other glues. 

As with most things, a small test first is always useful; old army saying "Time spent on a recce is never wasted."