catopower

Funny, but I ran into the same question today...
 
I'm working on a 1770s colonial schooner with windlass. I just got the line for the anchor cables in the mail today and went to mount them. Then, I realized I wasn't sure which way to run them. I was trying to look at photos of Harold Hahn's work, but, dare I say, I think he might have it wrong. It's actually kind of hard to say as the photos I have don't show the windlass very clearly. Most photos are about the general structure of his models, not on the rigging details. But, I think he has the anchor cable coming off the bottom of the windlass and backwards from the way Harland describes in his book.
 
So, SOS, I think you're right. In Harland's book on page 263, bottom of first column, he writes "The cable was taken three times around the barrel, the turns coming off the top, the inboard part being kept to the outer end, to facilitate fleeting the turns." 
 
 
Clare

As in all things relating to friction being applied to a line, there are always three turns around the objects the line is being belayed to. There will never be more than three turns on a windlass or a capstan. Never less then three either. Three turns around an object provides just enough friction to halt the "crawling" of a line under strain. Something with a tremendous amount of stain will need to be Tailed and this means someone is assigned to keeping the bitter end of the line under strain too- to keep friction on the first turn while the line is being hauled. In the drawing some seizings have been clapped on to hold the turns.

Hi Phil,
 
There are probably plenty of people on MSW who can chime in with better answers than mine. You're right in the Bluenose II being a wooden hull ship. In fact, I don't think I've ever built a wooden model of a steel hull ship. Well, at least until Sir Winston Churchill. So, I've never had to worry about trying to get rid of wood grain or planking outlines.
 
For my Woody Joe Sir Winston Churchill model, I've been using plain old Elmer's wood filler on the hull. Regular sanding sealer can be applied after filling. In fact, it seems to harden the filler a bit, which is otherwise pretty soft. I'm not sure what to do about an undercoat prior to painting yet. I haven't gotten there, but will have to figure that out pretty soon.
 
I saw on another thread where someone recommended using a coat of Future on the hull to get a smooth finish. I've never tried that though, so I can't say that it works well or not.
 
Clare

Hi Phil,
 
Nice progress on your SWC. I always liked the Billing Boat series of kits that has you build the hull in halves. I built their Bluenose II kit that way and it all went together quite nicely.
 
 
I recently received the update Woody Joe kit (Japanese manufacturer) of the Sir Winston Churchill which is the exact same scale as the Billing Boats kit.
 
Your blog and the posts by various people here are very helpful. There are some details that seem a little simplified in the Woody Joe kit, so I've been scouring the Internet and calling on various resources.
 
I didn't see anyone mention this here yet, but there are some neat short videos about the ship on Youtube. This one seems to be a spliced together compilation of them:
 
If you can put up with the use of the Wagner music in a couple spots, most of it is actually well narrated.
 
I've had a hard time finding good reference photos, so this video turned out to be a godsend for me.
 
 
Clare

Hi Phil,
 
Nice progress on your SWC. I always liked the Billing Boat series of kits that has you build the hull in halves. I built their Bluenose II kit that way and it all went together quite nicely.
 
 
I recently received the update Woody Joe kit (Japanese manufacturer) of the Sir Winston Churchill which is the exact same scale as the Billing Boats kit.
 
Your blog and the posts by various people here are very helpful. There are some details that seem a little simplified in the Woody Joe kit, so I've been scouring the Internet and calling on various resources.
 
I didn't see anyone mention this here yet, but there are some neat short videos about the ship on Youtube. This one seems to be a spliced together compilation of them:
 
If you can put up with the use of the Wagner music in a couple spots, most of it is actually well narrated.
 
I've had a hard time finding good reference photos, so this video turned out to be a godsend for me.
 
 
Clare

Hi Phil,
 
Nice progress on your SWC. I always liked the Billing Boat series of kits that has you build the hull in halves. I built their Bluenose II kit that way and it all went together quite nicely.
 
 
I recently received the update Woody Joe kit (Japanese manufacturer) of the Sir Winston Churchill which is the exact same scale as the Billing Boats kit.
 
Your blog and the posts by various people here are very helpful. There are some details that seem a little simplified in the Woody Joe kit, so I've been scouring the Internet and calling on various resources.
 
I didn't see anyone mention this here yet, but there are some neat short videos about the ship on Youtube. This one seems to be a spliced together compilation of them:
 
If you can put up with the use of the Wagner music in a couple spots, most of it is actually well narrated.
 
I've had a hard time finding good reference photos, so this video turned out to be a godsend for me.
 
 
Clare

Passing this on.
 
I've been checking Zootoyz.jp site for the availability of the saw with no luck. So I emailed to find when it would be available, their return email said the website is not up to date and zootoy.jp will send a paypal invoice for the saw and ship it. So if you want to order one use the contact tab on the left side of their web page and request the saw. If you order at night you'll have an answer in the morning, at least that is what happened for me.
 

Hi Richard,
 
Glad you like the saw. I feel a bit responsible for Kazunori at Zootoyz having ordered a stock of them after I asked him about carrying the product. They weren't selling very well at first and I expect it was mostly because nobody knew he had them. So, I had to "spread the gospel."
 
The towel is something he recently started doing, including small gifts with each order. It's a nice touch. I got a towel with The Great Wave painting on it. Maybe they'll end up being like trading cards "Collect all 10!"
 
 
Druxey, I love that you know the name of the artist and the actor in that painting. You never cease to amaze me!
 
 
Clare

I decided to proceed with the lower deck  previously prepared. I had already arranged on the deck, not only the cabin access , but also the opening for access to the rudder horn. On the deck, near the rudder horn, there is an upside that in the original project must be glued. Obviously I don't glued, because the compartment must be inspected. So I inserted neodymium chinese magnets very powerful but microscopic (6mm dia. X 2 mm. thick) to easily open and close this compartment.
 


 
At this point, check the openings, confirming that everything fits well, I glued the aft deck.
 

 
Ciao for today 

Now I started to think to the removable upper bridge. In the project, all is glued. It would be easy!
Since all must be adapted to the underlying profiles, slightly curved, I began to realize ribs and spars to make it all fit and strong.
 


 
I built the aft cabin on the lower deck
 


 
Because this bridge must be easily removable, I installed an glued with epoxy resin eight  neodymium magnets.
 



 
After I covered the upper bridge with walnut strips wide 4 mm., 5 cm long. thickness 0.5 mm., alternating with half of each course and glued with quick vynil glue.
 



 
I will stop for now   
 
 

Hull after about 2 hours with 80 grit sandpaper. It comes about 80 percent shaped.

I go ahead quickly because I started this model several months ago and are far ahead in building.
 
At this point I realize the portholes before gluing the bridges because they are below deck. From the photos finded on the web, I saw that the portholes are flangeless, wide side. From a  aluminon tube  diam. external 6 mm. I cut 24 slices 5mm., filed and clean with limes and fine emery paper, try in their holes. The depth of 5 mm., Greater than the thickness of the plating, I need to handle them better, once inserted under the bridge, the greater thickness is not seen.     Now is the time to make the glass portholes: I cut 12 pieces of wooden rod with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the portholes and prepared suitable holes in a piece of foam, surplus of previous work (but would be fine also a piece of wood or of any material not tough and easy to be drilled). This it will serve as the support for the rods of wood which, in turn, will support section to hold vertically the portholes. I smeared on the well-polished wooden rods Teflon grease (okay, however, any type of fat) and tucked portholes.     After that, the tip of the portholes I filled with epoxy resin and, subsequently, pulled a little 'back the rods of wood, so that the resin is lowered, forming a slide convex. This will serve me then, during the coating phase, to tuck it in a ball of paper or other material to protect it from paint.     When the resin has polymerized almost, I extracted with ease rods of wood and ... voila! Portholes with their slides transparent wire side are ready to be inserted and glued in place.        

And here is some small progress. After giving a coat of epoxy resin inside and outside of the hull, I sanded it all with all the tools at my disposal: electric sander three heads articulated type razor (fits all curves    ), disc sander, files and rasps manuals of all forms, finally sandpaper hand.    
At this point, before proceeding with the construction, I have prepared the arrangement of the elements motorization. The axis with its tube (which I had already inserted and glued with epoxy resin with glass beads) is Caldercraft Fine Line 4mm. steel M4. On the tube, in the end part inside the hull, after having drilled a hole, I inserted a small brass tube 3 mm. soldered with tin and steel-reinforced liquid (epoxy). All this works to grease the shaft, just push the fat with a syringe into the tube. The electric motor is reduced to 2.5: 1 is an MFA 950D 385 English that can be powered from 6 to 15 V. I think it will feed with a NiMH battery 7.2 V. The universal joint between the axle and the 'shaft is a universal type with inserts of the righteous diameters. The rudder servo is Jamara Standard.     After this important step, I continued building still following my logical succession and never that of the original instructions that are to a static model. For now I glued the high walls of the passenger cabin below  and the sides of the bow and stern.     After a good sanding, I plastered all remained uneven with epoxy filler and then sanded again.     Finish for now, after next progress...

The sails done and test mounted. I think they look good. I will try to form them with hairspray and I bought a cheap can for test. Unfortunately the spray left a shine so I have too see if I can find a spray without shine..
Off to Germany now for some days with my work so no shipyard business until weekend.....   

So, sail attempt nr 2. Jonny, I think this is way better! I have glued the thin strips with Gütermann HT2 (pressed with iron when dried)  and then simulated the small stiches with a small needle on a much thinner cloth.
 
Nigel thank you for your words. It is a nice kit but be prepared for priming, sanding, priming sanding.....
  

Hello all
 
I spend every day on looking at all the fantastic models in this forum so I thought it was time to share mine build. It is the first wood model I build but I have built plastic models since I was child (Airplanes and tanks with focus on WWII). I should have done this log long ago but I get messed up in priming, airbrushing, coating etc. Have to redone it a couple of times.......
 
I have added some extra details on the ship to make it more like photos from 1934. I apologise for the bad photos but I am not a expert on photos:)
 
I choose this kit as a learning kit and my goal is to build period ships in the future. Next build will be Sherbourne by caldercraft. 
 
Well here are the photos:)
 
 
Jörgen
 
 
 
 

Happy Sunday everybody..
A little more work has been done.  Jerry pointed out to me that we overlooked some small deck pieces which he feels should be placed before going any further with the standing rigging.  He's talking about several eyelet-rings and cleats.  So that will be the next project.  In the meantime here are some pictures of how I have tackled the tackle.  LOL..
Charlene

Good evening everybody,
 
When I got home from school today Jerry surprised me with what he calls my "next lesson."  We are now in the standing rigging phase of construction and it took Jerry more than an hour to explain the difference between "standing" and "running" rigging.  My first guess was that it would be necessary for one to stand (in order to reach the top of the masts) to do the standing rigging and that's why it's called "standing" rigging.  Jerry immediately asked me if I thought I would have to run around the work area to do the running rigging.  This did seem foolish to me so I knew there's a better reason.  So, I finally got it...the standing rigging, except for some occassional  up and down movement,  is stationary for the most part and the ruinning rigging  is  manipuilated often to control the sails and operate the ship.  Big deal...Jerry did get a start on the deadeyes and shroud connections which I will copy to complete this phase during the weekend.  Have a very nice weekend everyone.
Charlene

Hello Everyone..
 
I don't have to be at work until later today so I thought i'd take a little time to post some pictures showing where we are at with our build of the HMS Bounty.  I'm really excited as we are now ready to begin the standing rigging.  But first, Jerry promised to give me a lesson on how to serve the rigging thread.  So when I get back from school tonight I hope to learn how to do that.  We plan to rig as much as we can on the lower masts and then step the next mast sections so we can continue the rigging process.  I know that I have complained about the plans and directions in the past and after looking at them in preparation for the rigging, i'm really nervous.  Jerry and my knowledge of the Italian language is pretty bad but we'll do the best we can.
Here are some pictures of Bounty as she sits now.
Charlene

A fine finish to your beautiful build, Bob!
 
You should send your photos to Woody Joe. They would love to see it too.
 
Clare

Hello "The Old Man",
 
Birch plywood is fine for bulkheads and strong back. Just get stuff that's flat as others have said. Aircraft grade is nicer to work with, but in the end, what you're using should be just as good. 
 
I'd suggest using something nicer for the actual visible keel, stem and sternpost though. I like to use boxwood for those, even with kits. I've cut off the existing stem and keel of those "all in one" keel/strong back pieces and replace them with boxwood (or pear wood) pieces, built up as with the real ships and nobody can tell the inside is just plywood.
 
Using nice wood for those visible areas will avoid bad looking edges and the wood discoloration you're getting, and would allow you to leave the visible wood natural if you like.
 
Clare

Hello "The Old Man",
 
Birch plywood is fine for bulkheads and strong back. Just get stuff that's flat as others have said. Aircraft grade is nicer to work with, but in the end, what you're using should be just as good. 
 
I'd suggest using something nicer for the actual visible keel, stem and sternpost though. I like to use boxwood for those, even with kits. I've cut off the existing stem and keel of those "all in one" keel/strong back pieces and replace them with boxwood (or pear wood) pieces, built up as with the real ships and nobody can tell the inside is just plywood.
 
Using nice wood for those visible areas will avoid bad looking edges and the wood discoloration you're getting, and would allow you to leave the visible wood natural if you like.
 
Clare

There are different grades of birch plywood available. I use always aircraft grade plywood which is normally 5 to 10 plys, depending of thickness. Very good flat material, easy to saw, sand, etc, and keeps it's dimensions perfectly. Normally lumber yards sell worse quality board which warps, is not homogenous, etc.

Thanks to everybody  for the kind words  .
 
I emptied the ordinates  to lighten the weight an also to allow the passages of cables and linkages.
 


 
Then, after building a structure, I started laying the planking with strips of basswood.
 

 
At this point, I realized that at the stern, in order to glue the strips , I had to stick the side of the stern. In the kit is 1,5 mm. plywood. I kept it in water overnight and, the next day, when I tried to bend it gently (the curve is very strong), it broke immediately!   So I decided to use another material: polystyrene that  bends very easily.
 

 
After I proceeded with the planking.
 


 
 

A fine finish to your beautiful build, Bob!
 
You should send your photos to Woody Joe. They would love to see it too.
 
Clare