olliechristo

Okay guys, had some time off work, some good time in the shipyard. Did a full 9 hour day of planking yesterday,, plus another 6 added also..
 
I am a very happy modeller.. I only ended up having to use 4 half stealers on the keel.. No planks are less than 2.9 mm wide.. planks were 5.7 x 0.6 mahogany
 
Photos make it look glossy but its a satin finish.. There are some minor glue marks through clear coat but overall im 92.5 % happy and don't want to risk sanding anymore...
 
I thank my sponsors and support crew..   I won't say it was easy, but I relish in a good challenge/ learning experience..
 
I will mask off and sand where wales get fixed.  Moving onto starboard side next and now to get it's planking on and think about water lines, paint and  coppering.  Regards Ollie

more pics and angles

Okay guys, had some time off work, some good time in the shipyard. Did a full 9 hour day of planking yesterday,, plus another 6 added also..
 
I am a very happy modeller.. I only ended up having to use 4 half stealers on the keel.. No planks are less than 2.9 mm wide.. planks were 5.7 x 0.6 mahogany
 
Photos make it look glossy but its a satin finish.. There are some minor glue marks through clear coat but overall im 92.5 % happy and don't want to risk sanding anymore...
 
I thank my sponsors and support crew..   I won't say it was easy, but I relish in a good challenge/ learning experience..
 
I will mask off and sand where wales get fixed.  Moving onto starboard side next and now to get it's planking on and think about water lines, paint and  coppering.  Regards Ollie

Few more photos.. few more mistakes
I am actually thinking I should get my next kit out and get up to the decking and fix all the mistakes I made on the siren that way I shouldn't forget.
 
The waterways are too close to the gun ports - I THOUGHT I made enough allowances when I added the deck - I didn't use the kit supplied timber - but I didn't make enough allowance. I am going to have to notch out the waterway under each port so they little supports that are strewn around the deck can be attached at sill level.
 
The deck - I tried a few things but ended up staining the edge strip as it was basswood and the deck boxwood. Instead of trying to make them match and not getting it - I went the other way and did the contrast thing. The alternative was waiting ages and ages for some boxwood wide enough to cut to shape. I was impatient
 
The black paint... way too glossy - and its called "dull black" - I actually went to the site and re-read the description - and it says its satin to match Victory (Admiralty Paints) - I am STILL waiting on my flat black paint - ordered in on 12th December... I might have to go the flat/mat varnish and order it from another supplier.  So all the black will be FLAT.. not this gloss....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

December 28-30, 2013
 
I was now pushing myself to try and finish the model for New Year's Day so things were happening fast and furious. With the masts stepped and sail hoops made I next went on to install the gaffs. As I threaded the parrels into the jaws the string was a bit too snug to fit and it actually tore through the wood, ruining the hole. Drat. I glued a small wedge of mahogany over the hole and later sanded it back to shape. Drilled the hole again and used a thinner thread for the parrels. This time the hole held..
 
While the glue was drying on this patch job I prepared the lower dead eyes by wrapping the chains from the kit around them. I must admit I was nervous about getting a tight fit and a nice, 90 degree bend on the wire. I concentrated on pushing the brass hard against the dead eye as I worked it around 360 degrees. To make the bend "crisp" I used a pair of hobby pliers without teeth and, holding the wire at the right location, bent it by hand over the side of the jaws of the tool. I was actually surprised and pleased at how smoothly this went.
 

 
I followed Mastini's method to mark the location and set the angle for the chains by taping the shrouds in place first. I then used a sanding cord to make notches in the channels for the chains. Holes were drilled in the flattened part of the chains, I shaped them to the curve of the ship and I drilled holes in the hull for the pins. When, as I was about to attach the eighth and last chain...
 
...the flattened tab snapped off.
 
Great. At first I thought of soldering the pieces back together but didn't think it would be a good joint. I ended up using some brass shim stock that I bent like the blade of a shovel around its handle. To avoid possibly overheating the brass and discolouring it I used epoxy to attach the new tab. Once the epoxy set I filed it down, shaped the tab and installed the last chain.
 

The broken tab and its replacement
 
 

Right after the epoxy set.
 

Cleaned up with a file
 
 

Installed.

Thanks Ollie, yea I'm gluing between the planks as I go along.. will try to pick up that yellow glue that Kester spoke about as my regular wood glue isn't the fastest at 'grabbing' hold.
Once the 1st layer of planking is done i'll be attaching the Keel and Bow timbers which will help hold the ends/edges of the 2nd planking in place (Rabbet to be cut first)
She's at that point now where you just want to keep looking at it to imagine the pleasing hull lines (Hmmmm I may need to get out more  )
 
Thanks again for checking in Ollie
 
Eamonn

News flash! With pictures..   Starting to take shape now.. Looks good to see those curves begin on her..
 
I think you are right about focusing on the strength of first planking rather than appearance before sanding, especially if pins or planking screws are going to be used on second layer.. Which is kind of inevitable.. Pays to get glue between planks not just on bulkheads too.. (imho)
 
Also regarding strength....  If you look at when i installed my keel, (page 9) You will see i 'dremelled' out between planks along keel line and epoxied it all in so it will hold all plank ends in together to keel. .    Keep them news flashes coming//

Eamonn,
 
Looking good, nice work.
 
I tend though (well, you did say) not to put pins through the actual plank itself, which might split, but use pins that have a 'shoulder', positioning them directly into the bulkheads on the outside of the plank being glued. This ensures no damage to the plank and the pin's shoulder holds it tight against the frame. This might be a little slower, but I don't think this matters much if you are correctly planking both sides simultaneously, which you obviously are! However, if this works for you...
 
I was a little surprised you used nails, as I'm not sure they're really necessary, provided you've enough bend in the plank, good glue, and bow blocks. The heads can also cause problems later when it comes to sanding.
 
Just one other thing ('only one?' I hear you ask). With regard to those frame tops, I bet later on in the instructions it says something like, 'with a pair of pliers, twist off the frame tops, and then clean up the stumps with sandpaper...'  I read that, when at this stage on Sherbourne, and thought 'no way, I'm not going to risk doing any damage'. I then decided to cut about halfway through the frames at deck level (but still leaving the frame top reasonably rigid). They later came away much easier, and there was also less to clean up. You might want to consider doing that, perhaps after you have finished the first planking. I don't know if you have a Dremel, but if you have, the round cutting attachment should do the job. Be very careful though, and cut just the frame tops!
 
Dang! You've sussed me with regard to Amazon. Seriously though, they can be expensive, so its worth looking around for cheaper deals – although their Marketplace usually offers things at reduced prices. Finally, I do remember The Plank, a great piece of classic comedy.    I bet that's on utube somewhere too! The one I always remember is, the Blood Donor – 'That's almost an armful!'

Photo Update as Promised:
 
3 more planks each side went on this morning for a grand total of 6 a side, remember I'm not overly concerned over their appearance as this is only 1st planking and my aim is to get them on relatively neatly so as to give a good base for 2nd planking.
They are cut over length, and will be trimmed/sanded down later. I most likely will nail them in place also, particularly at the bow/stern areas as the last think I want is for them to 'spring' later.
 
Thanks For Checking In..
 
Eamonn
 
Oh and Dee Dee, if you are reading this I ordered those books from Abebooks this morning, Thanks again for the tip as I reckon I got them all for the price of 2 with Amazon! Thanks also to Kester & Nigel for putting me onto them to begin with!   E
 
 

An minor update..,
I placed the rubbing strakes/wales  on one side of the hull and gave the whole side beeswax.
 

 
.. There’s something funny..  
I can only place 2 planks in between cannon deck 1 & 2 instead of 3 as shown on the drawings.. 
..Maybe my cannon frames are not exactly sized as the supplied ones..  
 

 

Progress !!
I started roughly shaping  the hull with grid 60
 

 

 

 
After this I started using grid 100, grid 150, grid 240 and finished the hull with grid 400.
On the pictures down below I gave ½ the hull bees wax (color “blonde”) and on these you will notice immediately the warm glow of Sapelli wood taking over the picture
 

 
So this is the current state.
I must admit that it is not perfect and i have learned during the whole progress, but in general i'm very pleased with the result..
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Gerty.
 
Small update today; the making of the dory main rail. Next up is priming and painting.
 
/Alfons

I am uploading the rest of my pictures, the new log required a little bit more life to it.   
 
Sorry that the time line does twist a little bit back and forth.
 
/Alfons
 

Fellow ship builders. A small update from a visual point of view, but rather big from a time perspective..
 
I am detailing the deck, starting my way from the bow. The holes for the deadeyes are drilled trough the main rail and further trough the respective stanchion.
 
Thanks for dropping by.
/Alfons
 

Ok next post from me will be a serious one, and hopefully include a photo or two folks
 
Eamonn
 
Hancock was class though, but don't get me started on 'The Plank'.. remember that?

They say it better than I can! But they are correct ! So follow their directions!! 

Ollie,
 
Just let the planks sweep up under the counter in a smooth curve.  Have the planks meet each other on the centreline.
 
John

Ollie,
 
I am relatively new to the site and to model ship building but I read through your log last night.
You are doing a beautiful job considering that this is your first model. 
I too am doing a Modellers Shipyard kit and the instructions call for gluing the keel, stem and sternpost to the finished layer of planking.
I see that you have installed them prior to doing your second layer.  This makes more sense to me and I will do the same.
I really like your idea of the wide push pins.  I was wondering how I was going to hold the planks in place without actually putting holes in them.
Problem solved - Thanks very much
 
Keep up the great work
 
Rod.
 
 

Glad to see another Modellers shipyard Kit on here.. I look forward to following you on your build.. A grand looking vessel.  Looks to be going really well.. I am learning how much needs to be considered on second planking..  All I can advise is treat each plank as its own entity and eventually they will add up.. The 'beginners planking tutorial' on here is great. Some good pictures.. Regards Ollie

Thanks John. The only stealers I plan on having are on the stern post itself. I can see where I went wrong on first layer..
 
The thing i was unsure of is where planks meet from either side of hull under rudder.. . After looking at your picture im thinking they are parallel.
Regards ollie

Thanks Sailor.. I really appreciate you taking time to explain more about planking, I'm really soaking it up and love that there is so much to learn..  It is a great asset to understand how things were built on a real ship so it can be translated to our models respecting materials and scales used... What a wonderful hobby.. Thanks ollie

I wish you all the luck and patience with building you will need ( and you WILL need it, no doubt)
 
Read instructions manuals and plans 5x for each step
Think about them and analyze it 10x
Re-read it and re-think it again 2x
 
And then - cut and glue
 
(I did not, so run in deep trouble)
 
I ll watching your progress with great interest
 
Nenad

I learned a valuable lesson tonight.
Before asking a question do a search on MSW first.
I wanted to know whether to use contact cement or white glue for the second planking.
I should have realized that most of my questions will have been asked by hundreds of others before me and its simply a matter of searching properly. 
 
I finished the deck planking tonight so now onto the part that scares me the most  - the second planking of the hull. 
No room for errors now.  Wish me luck!

You can also very easily see that garboard strake is very much triangular in shape, just as I mentioned in my last post here. It makes planking the hull up much easier. You can also see another facet of wooden ship/boat construction. The planking doesn't necessarily start at the bottom and work to the top or vice versa. You can start mid way and plank the hull in sections. In larger ships, this would allow several gangs of plankers to work at once. One gang might start at the top and work down, another at the bottom and work up. On particularly large ships, there may even be a third gang planking in the middle. They will meet part way and close up the last space with what is known as a "shutter plank". This was normally followed by a shutter plank party. Alcohol may be invovled.
A modern builder prefers to use shutter planks everywhere so he builds by planking every second plank then putting "shutter planks" between each of the already installed planks. Sounds kind of odd to me but it works for him.

Hi All
Just stated putting the yards/sails on the foremast.
 
Denis.