Aussie048

Thanks all for the kind comments.
 
 
I did, at 1200 dpi it managed to keep the font readable. A couple of years back this wouldn't be possible on a home printer.
 
So back to the more mundane cabin building. The doors have louvered openings, the rest is pretty straight forward but involved a lot of testfitting. alle the bulkheads are assembled off the model as this was easier to build. 
 

 

 

 
It's getting pretty crowded on the deck and there is more to come, a pantry, the bitt's and pump's
 

 
Remco

I have made a little progress on my model. Adding some details like cleats and stuff. Not done yet but getting closer. I am very much so enjoying the process. 

To be honest, I am not impressed by the quality of the photos of the models of CCV.
everything is made exclusively with wood, without any single metal accessory.
If you want to try something similar, there is the greek bireme from Amati, which is surely an overall good quality kit.
But is a rather simple design, so it is not so much "fascinating".
The "typical roman" bireme is the one made by Mantua model.
unfortunately is a beginner model, so the bow and stern are made by resin, which is a very disappointing factor.
Other details are semplified, too.
But the overall Mantua kit can be a starting point for making an "improved" roman bireme.
in the attached file there are some photos of the Mantua roman bireme, which I "improved" a lot of time ago....
Otherwise you can buy the plans alone and start the ship from scratch.
 
Note: Chris Watton (see a topic in the present section) is starting to develop a Roman Bireme for Amati.

Mini How To: Making an acrylic faux-planking piece
 
After deciding to attempt a clear “vista” section of my model, I immediately looked around for pieces left over from my last acrylic-working shenanigan debacle (As seen here). Turns out I was so peeved I threw all of it away, so off I went to the local art supply store. Turns out an approximately 4x6” piece was about $15. Yikes. So I looked around, and instead bought this architect’s triangle for “only” $10, with the idea of cutting it up and harvesting its parts. I also re-purposed a junk mail flyer for template duty.  Well, junk is a strong word.  I strategically avoided cutting into the coupon itself, because I’ll be damned if I’m going to miss out on $25 off a $50 purchase next time I go to Orvis.

 
 
Moving on.
 
Turns out that making the template took much longer than I expected, but going slowly I eventually ended up with a very good template that was transferred over to the acrylic sheet.

 
 
Next, I used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel (Always wear safety glasses!) to carefully rough out the shape as close to the line as I dared.
 
Then, using a flat file, I cleaned up the edges and beveled them even. This took less time that I expected, but I expected it to take forever. It still took a long time. It was actually surprisingly easy to make the edges an angle, rather than pure 90 degrees. The bottom side, in particular, looked weird without an angle filed in, and left a big gap.
 
All the edges were lightly chamfered, giving it a surprisingly professional appearance.  I expected the whole thing to look pretty bad, but I think it looks darn right nice, much better than expected.  Sometimes you even surprise yourself.
 
Then I fitted it up, and the thing was so convincing that it looked like nothing was there at all.  So I carefully marked where all the real wood planking was, and scribed some lines into the acrylic using the tip of a small round file to simulate planks. 
 
This is the same photo as my previous post. 

Hi Ffolks 
 
I am happy - and sad at the same time: My Half Moon is done.
 
I posted just a pic - more pics and more words about the building will follow asap
 
I thank you all who follwed my build and made me a good time...
 
@jct: I just used a small leftover from planking and stained it black at last
 
 
Cheerio
 
Max
 

John, thanks for checking out the progress.
 
I had a chance to make a second hawser fairing, this time I used copper, definitely a better choice of material, it is much more malleable I only needed 2 annealings.
 
I am tired so just a sequence of pictures using exactly the same process as the 1/8th diameter one, I will make the smaller ones out of 1/8th copper tube.
 

 
The most work forming was done with this tool
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The last picture is showing the difference between the 1/8th brass one and the 1/4 copper one. Also the four different tools for forming and some metal snips and file, the final polish was done with wire wool
 
 
 

 
Michael

The wellroom and shot lockers is made from marble wood (Acacia bakeri). It was in a “grab bag” of pen turning blocks I bought a while back.

The framing for the platform is made from 1/8” square Beech wood. This set of photos shows the installation of it and the limber boards.

This is a few more photos of the thick stuff being installed.

This set of photos shows the crutch and thick stuff being installed.

Sam, What did that pan look like, and how was the stove mounted in it? Your prototype is mounted only on a plate, but your drawings show something that looks like wooden beams below the plate. Do you have, or could you draw, a picture of what it should look like?
 
While thinking about the stove mounting, I installed and rigged the first six guns. For this I used blocks and rope from Chuck. I can say without hesitation that I am a satisfied customer. I've used Morope in the past, but I like Chuck's stuff a whole lot better and intend to do all of the rigging on Essex with it. After ordering a variety of sizes, I settled on the 1/8" blocks, the .035" line for the breeching rope and the .008" line for the tackles. 
 
I also made and mounted the main cable bitts. These were done in boxwood and are merely a larger version of the fore riding bitts, previously done. I also added the first ringbolts to the deck.
 
Since I am waiting to receive more carriage kits from the Lumberyard, I will probably do some more work in the bow area, rather than moving back along the gun deck for now.
 
Bob
 
 

No.Roos scratch. But a resident goanna and snake spider etc.. Eamm. I don't mind these country mozzies it's the city slicker ones that got me, Damm hood rat town drain cruising Ozzie mozzies
 
I added my anchor ropes, I think perhaps I should get some of that wax to stop the fuzzy bits on rigging..and ropes. Any suggestions.. Beeswax!? Ollie

Thanks dave. Only thing I.don't like is the mould.and mildew. But luckily were coming into our dry season.. This load should get it looking a bit more like a workshop.. Regards

The man cave feeling a bit more usable

My mamoli beagle.. parts missing kit arrived. I've already eyed off a few parts.. I.like the anchors. Well finished and blackened and same size. The stocks on kit supplied for mermaid seem too big.. Both anchors 40 mm even though kits are not the same scale. Interesting... I actually like the mamoli anchors but don't like the stocks.. Coarse grain and grain seems to run wrong direction.. I scratched some out of walnut..

Made up the lower deadeyes and straps

Got two of my favourite power tools setup.. Bench sander with 6 inch disc is such a handy one...

She came right off the mould with no problems. It inside looks pretty decent without too many weird spots. There is no excess glue to speak of and it feels really solid. I also didn't notice any tendency to spring to a wider dimension like some others have reported. I think the people that had this happen used one cherry stick for one continues frame.
 

I made a bit of progress on the hull. With a bit of filler, some sanding and a bit of primer it's looking better. I'm not sure I want to go much further on the sanding and such. It could be better but I'm happy with it so far.
 

 

 
Al D.

I have a more permanent Ship yard now, a shiny new desk, not bad for 40 quid. This has been a godsend as I dont have to keep packing away and unpacking and finding tools all over the house.
 
Ship wise I have finally bitten the bullet and rigged the cannons as best I can, they are so small and fiddly but it makes a real diffference and great to see the first yarn being added to the build.
 
As I look at theses pics though I have decided to re-do the gratings as they look too "stuck on" and lack the arch you see on the real thing. They are such a focal point on a ship too that I think it will be worth the effort of re-doing them. A lot of the eyelets are in place now too so once I have finished rigging the cannons I will be moving on to winch and the dreaded Bowsprit and mast planing (shudder).
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Holty

Dear friends,

I am extremely pleased and honored that you like my work. I appreciate your support a lot.

Thank you all very much for your kind words. There is still much to learn and improve in my work. But mainly I build models for a joy and also education - I like to raise knowledge about history and construction of real ships.

I will continue to build models so that my work was worthy of your words.

To all: I often watch your beautiful work and find plenty of a great inspiration. That helps me a lot and brings pleasure and joy, when I can see, how  wonderful things you are able to create. I am blessed to be here together with you.
 
 
Oh yes, the beauty of real Royal Caroline was the main reason, why I chose the RC as a template for my model. Our ancestors were able to build amazing things.
 
 
 
 
 That´s really adorable, your beautiful verses make me happy and caress my soul. I am very grateful.
 
 
Soon I will bring more pics, how the work on RC continues. Now I am modelling other crew members and there are plenty of work with them.


Some details are improved or added gradually on the model, for example iron rings under the main channel or pale wooden center in all front "pins" ( i do not know accurate name in English )  for tying ropes.
 




 
Kind regards
Doris

I'm pretty happy with the installation of the most aft pair of the carronades.
Now I can deal with the placing of the ladders of the rear platforms...

FINALLY SOME PROGRESS!!!
just finished the stanchions, and opted just for the alternating ringed and standard stanchions.
Pretty happy with the result but some touch ups are defiantly needed.
Now onto the Gunwale covers, trimmings and bumper, and eventually painting and coppering.



Also here was my production line for the stanchions
started with cutting brass to 'close enough' lengths and placing them,flux and a small bit of solder into groves set for the stanchion angle

after hitting it with the torch

ready for paint

After a metal primer and 3 coats of gloss acrylic

In other news, my Minecraft Victory is coming along too
 

Build log part 40
 
 
 
 
 

view on inner port bulwark side with pinrail and shroud- and backstay spanners
 

the yellow boom is just a Yard laying at the wrong place
 

started to rig the bracing ropes
 

 

 

 
 

the mainmast running bracing ropes are lead over the aft bumpkins
 

 
 

 
 

starboard foremast backstays
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 41 to follow....
 
Nils