Aussie048

I might look into rope coils after I see what the deck clutter looks like when all 22 guns are done.

Thank you Michael, It's great to be able to leave everything set up so the " Boat Shed " is Perfect, and you were right Making Sails is Addictive
 
Thanks Geoff, I am happy with the Boat Shed , It's the best Banishment I have ever had
 
Thanks Omega, I appreciate all the support I can get
 
Best Regards,
Pete
 
 
 

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks once again for the kind comments Geoff, Nils, Grant, Pat, Michael and Mark .
 
Here's a pic of a completed deadeye with chains. The deadeye was fitted after the chains were soldered and blackened by clamping the deadeye in the vise and squeezing the upper link tight with needle nose pliers :
 

 
I've made all the various size deadeye/chain assemblies. The last of them are pickling in vinegar at the moment, prior to blackening.
 
Preventer Plates
 
I've also made the 32 Preventer Plates, which fit to the lower end of the lower links on the Fore and Main shrouds. The plates were made by drilling the 0.6mm holes 7mm apart in a strip of 3mm x 0.8mm, and then filed to shape. A line was marked between the holes to simulate the way they were originally made - the piece was forged from square bar on the original.
 
A dog-leg was then bent into the upper end to give clearance for the chain from the hull. I made a simple jig by taping a piece of 0.8mm plate to the top of my small anvil. Another thicker plate was then placed over the piece and tapped a couple of times with a small hammer to make the first bend, then the other bend was tapped in by hitting the end of the piece :
 

 

 
  Danny

We Have a 10 X 15 foot Shed , I Have been using it for Painting , Kate said just use it for your Boat building shop ( SOLD ) once I brought the Table in , I decided to make a Burgee ( Pete & Kate Royal Yacht Club ) that scored me some points , I then turned my attention to making a working Jib and 150 % Genoa. This is going to be a better workspace than the Dinning room Table. Here are the results

Thank you Geaoff, She's getting there , I started making Sails for her today
 
Best Regartds,
Pete

Last night it got to late to do a build log, Yesterday I started by finishing the Life Boat boxes, I soaked very thin strips of wood and bent them around the Boxes . I then painted the banding red. I also re did the Toe rails , as I only wanted the Red to show on top. the 4 primary winches were also painted a flat Black , and the Roller furling Drum was Painted flat Black . Nothing has been glued to the Boat at this stage. Here are the results

Thin layer of soft yellow colored varnish, and BINGO !!! Color of Muntz metal is here !!!!



And obviosly happy evening

First hinge for rudder with nails made of top of needle


 

First gun rigged to the deck.  Only 21 to go!

I think I finally hit on a way to build strong hammock net stanchions. I took an oversized brass nail and put a 90 degree bend at the tip. Then I cut off the head. So I can mass produce dozens of these stanchions. I made a jig out of a hull plank that happens to be the same dimension I need. Then I drilled a hole through the width of the plank large enough that I can just slip the nail into the hole. Then I clip the extra brass. Now each stanchion will be exactly the same as the first.
 
Each stanchion will be nailed into the edge of the rail and glued. I hope it works.

Hi Michael, I have few new Ideas for making the pannels , if it works out It will be alot easier than how I had aproached Sailmaking in the past,
 
Hi Omega, Like I was saying to Michael, I have a few new Ideas for Sailmaking .All the sails on this boat will be able to be removed and replaced with smaller or larger , depening on wind conditions, , I have a few more things to work out, I am thinking I can get the furling system to work. ( at least it will fully deploy ) there is no radio on board. Kate has been telling me to build the Bruce Farr VO 65 in the same scale so that we can sail them together ( so I am leaning toward that scale, and leaving the radio gear alone until spring ) another month or so and it will be a bit to brisk for my liking. ( a perfect time to build the Herreshoff Alerion )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thanks Geoff,she's getting there , once the detail work on deck is complete , I will start making the Keel and Rudder Blades, she's getting closer to Sailing
 
Thanks Omega, The hull turned ourt well , I really like this blue ( Same as on Stars & Stripes ) I am having a blast building this boat, She practically built herself, every thing has gone smooth
 
Best Regards,
Pete

I finished rough rigging the guns. Now I'll use my fake gunport to trim the rigging to the correct dimensions for permanent installation in the real gunports.

There is a slight deviation of the mainmast (I think...) to the right.
Any idea on how to fix it?
I've already fixed the mast-base rings on the deck...

Uh oh, somebody forgot to properly shut the pen door...

I was away for most of the day , however I managed to make the 4 large Deck winches, and roughed out the 4 smaller ones that surrond the Cockpit. My Main Focus was to make the Roller Furling System for the Gennaker , so That it can be deployed and rolled back up , ( it's a feature that I jusy have to have on the boat . In a prelimenery test It worked proprely ( hope to show a mock up in the next few days. I also plan a full Sail inventory, including 2 Mains ( 1 standard and 1 half , as if it were refed, A working Jib, a 110 % Genoa , and the Gennaker ( Possibly a storm jib ( for high winds ) ( I am going to get the Sail making down) does'nt the saying go make your weekness you Srengths , (the only other set of Sails that I have made were for the Herreshoff Buzzards Bay )I am excited about Sailmaking for the first time in my life   Here are the result

..... continued.
 
Thanks Michael. I use a mini gas torch for all my soldering, and silver solder paste. It flows beautifully, but the joins MUST be a zero fit as it won't fill any gaps.
 
The Middle Links and Lower Links were both made by first cutting all the pieces to length - oddly enough ALL the links finished up the same length of 28mm, even the upper links. According to TFFM the middle lengths should have been of varying lengths to allow for the change of angle, but as they also sweep up slightly as the go aft the difference was so minimal (0.2mm) that it didn't warrant a whole lot of extra work .
 
To bend the pieces I used a simple two-nail jig. The lower links were then silver soldered and shaped around a 1mm drill bit at their lower ends. The upper ends were finessed with pliers around a wedge shaped piece of brass held in the vice similar to the one shown here :
 

 

 
The three links ready for final fitting :
 

 
Once the lower links were soldered and shaped the middle links were fitted between them and the upper links and soldered together. The middle link was then tightened down using the jig shown above :
 

 

 
I use a piece of pumice stone ($4.00 from a supermarket) to hold the pieces for soldering.
 
  Danny

Thank you Brian and John.
 
 
Which means I can fit 7 of the 5" deadeyes across one and still have room to spare :
 

 
Chains
 
Construction of the Chains - the "support braces" for the lower deadeyes - begins with the Upper Link or Deadeye Binding. As it's name suggests this is a forged steel binding which wraps around the deadeye. It passes through the channel and has a loop in it's lower end which attaches to the Middle Link.
 
To make these, which are all the same for this size of deadeye, I used a jig. The 0.7mm brass wire was first bent into a rough oval and the join silver soldered. Then it was tightened around the wooden pin and nail with needle-nose pliers to form it's shape :
 

 

 

 
The wooden peg in the jig was turned down to give a push-on fit over the outer diameter of the deadeye. Final fitting was accomplished with needle nose pliers. I needed to make one up to measure the following links - this one was later opened up and the deadeye removed prior to blackening of the wire :
 

 

 
Continued next post......

My sincere apologies for not posting sooner - my computer was either very sick or dead these past few weeks - all fixed now .
 
Thank you for your replies Allan, Druxey, David, Mark, Doris, David, Crackers and Johann, much appreciated.
 
 
Of course it would have Allan (and David , but you must have missed my comment regarding that bit - I didn't have any tubing of the right size, and to get some would have meant a 1 hour round trip with no certainty of success in getting any from the "local" hobby shop . I figured correctly that I could file the hinge straps in about the same time .
 
Deadeyes
 
Although my computer has been down I haven't been idle. I've turned ALL the Deadeyes and drilled them as well - all 142 of them, in four sizes - 64 off 10" (real size) or 5.3mm, 20 off 8" (4.25mm), 42 off 7" (3.7mm) and 16 off 5" - a tiny 2.65mm, the holes were a lot of fun to get right in these ones .
 
First, an explanation of why I made my own when there are very good quality ones available from companies like Syren Ship Models and some of the Russian sites. While these are of very nice quality, none of them had them in the sizes I needed. For example Chuck supplies all of his in even millimetre sizes (with good reason) and I thought the differences in some of the sizes I needed would have been too great and noticeable. For the 8" and 7" deadeyes I would have had to go with a 4mm deadeye for both, as you can see from the previous paragraph. The 5" deadeyes would have been either too large or too small.
 
Besides - I like a challenge .
 
After turning the diameter of the "huge" 5.3mm deadeyes I used a 1mm Parting Tool to cut the groove and also part it from the stock - the Digital Readout came in very handy to keep them all to exactly the same dimensions. For the 7" and 5" ones I ground an old parting tool down to 0.7mm. I rounded the edges with a needle file :
 

 

 
To drill the three 0.6mm holes for the 10" and 8" ones I used my new Rotary Table in the Mill. The holes are 1/4 of the way in from the outer edge and are spaced evenly at angles of 120 degrees apart. The 7" and 5" deadeyes have 0.45mm holes :
 

 

 
All the deadeyes separated into sizes :
 

 
An idea of the small sizes of them. Some 10" and 5" deadeyes on top of a 5 cent piece :
 

 
  Danny

Ty guys- yet more timber added today- must admit this was one of the areas i was dreading when i first started the kit- especially when i found billings hadn't provided any etchings for the windows.


Keith
 
 

Planking down to the keel is now completed. I have also cut out the second row of gunports. Here she is, all sanded down and ready to go ... while I ponder what to do next.
 

 

 

 
My ambition when I started out was to use no filler. Sad to say, I had to resort to the dreadful stuff. At least I didn't have to use much of it! Yes, I know it will be hidden by the second planking, but it would have given me a lot of satisfaction if I did not have to use any of it.

Today, Was one of those days where you loose track of time and Bam , it's dark, My Morning started by Having Coffe outside and looking at the Boat, I decided that even though I used a semi-gloss white , I still got way to much Glare, So I wet sanded the Deck and Cockpit up to 2000 grit. ( that seemed to do the trick) Next I painted the Cabin and surrounding Deck area Dark Grey, I was actually talking with Kate this morning about the Grey on the Bruce Farr VO 65  Drawings , and decided to add some flat Black an 1/8 thinner to the Grey and wow is it close to the drawings,( I plan on doing the Graphics the same as the Drawings ) I then Painted the top of the Toe rail red as well as the Cabin highlights Cabin entry point on Deck and the Hydraulic end of the Boom Vang . I put her together so we can see what she will look like . ( nothing has been glued to the Hull, I also Sprayed 1 coat of white on the SAILOR 500 and both life Boat boxes. Here are the results

Today I attached the cheeks. Didn't glue the tops on yet though. Just in case.

In my introduction thread, numerous folks suggested that I do a build log, so this will not only be my first ever wooden ship, but also my first ever build log.  Life is full of new things.
 
I've been getting the itch lately to get back into modeling, which is something I did with gusto when I was much younger.  I did the typical plastic type models, everything from 1/35 scale cars, to 1/48 tanks, 1/72 aircraft, all the way to 1/700 scale ships (small!).  My last modeling project was a super detailed 1/350 scale model of the German battleship Tirpitz, which was packed away into a box at about 20% completion when I was moving, and was never unpacked, although I still have it.  That was about 25 years ago.
 
As I was looking at that model and trying to make a list in my head of all the stuff I would need to start up again, it occurred to me that since I was starting from scratch as far as materials and tools, that I didn't need to go back to plastic.  Wooden models have always interested me, so I started looking around without too much seriousness, about what was available.  I was astounded at the variety and detail of the kits I found on the web, so on Friday the 15th, after work, I set out to a hobby shop that I had found in the internet that had tons of ship models.  The shop was a massive disappointment, with a terrible selection of plastic models and no wood stuff at all.  So, my trek began, as I went from one hobby shop location to another (several found online weren't even there anymore).  Eventually I decided to visit what was one of the best hobby shops in the valley (Phoenix) when I was younger, but was stupidly far away from both my home and my office.  I ended up at Hobby Bench in the far north valley (some 50 miles from my house).  Hobby Bench did not disappoint on selection, with 3 full shelves dedicated just to wooden ship models!  There were probably 40 or so kits to choose from.  Unfortunately nobody in the shop that evening had a clue about wooden ship modeling, so I just randomly picked the Carmen by Constructo as it looked nice, and didn't look super complicated or difficult as compared to the big square riggers, nor was it a simple one-piece hull model.
 
I bought the kit, a bunch of random stuff that I thought would be useful, and headed home, where I opened up the box and saw that there was certainly some assembly required!
 

 
Now that I had the kit, I was excited to begin, and being somewhat of an impatient person by nature anyway, I dug right in on Friday night at about 8:00 and started assembly.  In retrospect, this was probably a bad idea, as I did not do many of the things that I've since read on articles and build logs about squaring up the keel and bulkheads, so my false keel & bulkhead assembly is not true.
 

 
The other very early mistake I made was with the stern blocks.  The plans are fairly muddy for a complete newbie like myself, and I thought the blocks needed to be squared up against the bulkhead as seen here.
 

 
Unfortunately, the truth is that they should be aligned with the top of the false keel, not the bulkhead.  This means that my poop deck will not have the correct angle, but I think that once it's complete, I'll probably be the only one that knows it's wrong, I guess time will tell.
 
This shows that the assembly is not square.
 

 
I stayed up was too late playing with my new project, and in the wee hours of Saturday morning, just before 4:00am, I had something that was at least shaped somewhat like a ship.
 

 
After some much needed sleep, I got up, and did some web time, found this site, got on Amazon and ordered some miscellaneous tools and a copy of Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld.  After lunch, I went back to work on the Carmen.
 
I started off with the shaping of the stem and stern, as the blocks were obviously not the correct shape.  In this area the Constructo plans are seriously lacking, as there are no plans to layout the correct shaping of these pieces.  I did my best guesses from the photographs and what seemed to make sense to me.
 

 

 

 
At this point my plan was to rough shape everything, then move forward and do more/final shaping when I reached a point in the model where other items would give me better reference points.
 

 

 
Continued next post, as I begin on the deck planking...
 

I've been putting some pieces on the ship.
 
The rudder gave me a heck of a time but am ok with it now
 
Here is some of the rear detailing
The rear with Windows
A view down the ship
And an overview
 
Thanks for looking :)