justsayrow

I’m in the pencil camp.
 
one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself.  I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things!
 
good luck!

I’m in the pencil camp.
 
one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself.  I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things!
 
good luck!

I’m in the pencil camp.
 
one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself.  I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things!
 
good luck!

"Fair American" is in the paint shed.  Many coats/colors so it will be a few more days.  Then many bits and pieces to be added.  Pictures to follow.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete

Mike, you can still do that very thing by clicking on the "activity" drop-down menu and selecting "all activity since my last visit." That's what I do.

Round stock is much more readily available.  Maybe go up a size and machine it from that?

Will see how it goes.  It is several years since I painted a model and this will require a lot of masking.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

Pete,
I look forward to your painting post(s). It’s the area I struggle most in, and yours is always so uniform and crisp.

A few more details added before we head to the paint shed:
Rudder chain pad eyes were added to the counter and rudder post.  Rudder chain final installation will follow completion of exterior hull outfit when the model can remain securely in its construction cradle (note that I may use larger chain next time). Quarter badge windows were framed with .03 sq. stock.  The window frames were assembled on double sided tape and secured in place with CA glue.  If you are familiar with the “Fair American” design, you may have noticed that I have taken certain liberties with the design and that I am free to add new details based on period practice.  In other words, I look at ship modeling as an art and an opportunity for the builder to express his/her interpretation of how these historic period ships looked in their prime.  I hope that you enjoy watching my 14 Gun Brig “Fair American” as it develops.
 
Sorry for the picture quality.  Next step, move to the paint shed for exterior hull painting.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

Great to have you back!

Its good to be back in the shop and among friends hear at MSW.  Progress is slow but the work is rewarding.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete

I think what you are experiencing is very common to scale modelling.  Aesthetically, the proper size rope can appear too heavy for the model.  Although you use the exact right size for the rigging the overall look of the rig will appear to be overpowering.  It is often said to err on the small side if you have to make a choice.
 
If you look at the rigging of a real ship it appears to be almost delicate with plenty of space between each element.  On the model everything is compressed together and that delicate feeling can be lost.
 
Regards,

Continuing the upper hull outfit, attention turned to fabrication and dry fitting of the bowsprit, bowsprit bitts, fore bitts, and the jibboom:
Bowsprit assembly was completed.  This is an interesting assembly with lots of fine period details. Jibboom fabrication was completed. Bowsprit bitts were fabricated from 3/32” sheet stock and 1/8” sq. stock.  Bowsprit bitts were doweled to the inboard end of the bowsprit. Fore bitts were fabricated from 1/16” x 1/8” and 3/32” x 1/8” strip wood. Bowsprit and fore bitt deck attachments were reinforced with 3/64” dowel pins. The bowsprit notch was cut in the forward bulwark and the bowsprit, bowsprit bitts, and fore bitts were dry fitted to the hull.  This step included a 3/32” extension to the stem to conform with the 3/32” added to the bulwark height to suit the cannon ports. After completing the above tasks, the knightheads and timberheads were installed on the forward bulwarks.  
To facilitate hull painting and inner bulwark attachments the catheads will be installed after hull painting; and, the bowsprit, bowsprit bitts, and fore bitts will be installed after fitting inner bulwark attachments and the cannons.  The jibboom will be installed later during the rigging phase.  Next steps will continue with construction of the cheek knees and head framing.
 

Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes.  Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down.
 
Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!

Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes.  Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down.
 
Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!

Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes.  Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down.
 
Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!

Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes.  Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down.
 
Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!

Masking, sanding, and priming with grey will be a good approach for the white racing stripes.  Next car, maybe think about laying down the white first, then masking the white areas before putting the red down.
 
Really enjoying watching this come together, it’s both a classic car and classic model!

Thanks for feedback. Good to know I'm not going about this the wrong way. Yes I did think of doing the white first but it was more of a "should have done the white first!" 😋
 
Nick

With the Brig Fair American hull planking complete, construction continued with fabrication and installation of upper hull outfit. The next zone to be addressed was the bow zone.  Note that cheek knees, head rails, and head rail knees will be addressed later in the build:
P/S hull attachments were laid out in the bow zone (due to plan inaccuracies, I chose to lay out and check all bow attachments at this point). Catheads were fabricated/dry fitted from 3/16” x ¼” strip wood.  The catheads are pinned in place with 3/64” dowels.  The catheads will be installed after hull paint. Fore tack fairlead holes were drilled thru the forward bulwarks.  
A few small steps in completing upper hull outfit.  Next steps will continue with the knightheads and timberheads.
 

Frank,
Happy 2 year anniversary of your build log.
 
I love following along!

Hey guys, sorry I’ve been gone forever. My dad died then a good friend died. I withdrew from everything.   
I’m back now. Better late than never right? 
so I started back up on the Missouri 2 weeks ago.  Here’s a few pictures of what she looks like now.  Not much progress, sorry.

Moving along with no coming back..... I created a little cross of styrene, with 5 micro-LEDs: 

The fifth LED is not yet connected: 

We now mount the cross on top of the cockpit deck: 
Our first trial: from the outside, it looks good....but the inside remains kind of a mystery as the window is so small: 


You can see some of the control panels below: 

Trying different angles.... yes, twisting your neck you can see some of the controls.....

The electrical connections to the main bus are done. There is enough slack in the wires to remove the sphere: 

It is now time to glue the cockpit deck inside the upper half, and to glue the upper half to the rear bulkhead. The rear bulkhead (and the sphere..) holds by a very tight coupling (that brass tube over the spine) and three strong magnets. The three small prongs of the kit are helping too. We will not loose the living spaces on our way to Jupiter: 



Quite a tall model.....

Yves
 
 
 
 
 

The 14 Gun Brig Fair American, circa 1780 is based on Model No. 60 of the Henry Huddleston Rodgers ship model collection at the U.S. Naval Academy Museum, Annapolis, Maryland.  The model is representative of many of the small ships used as privateers during the American War of Independence.  The brig Fair American had a length of 68’ 0”, beam of 24’ 0”, depth of 8’ 0”, and tonnage of 130 tons.  The model is based on the Model Shipways Fair American kit developed by Erik A. Ronnberg, Jr. and updated by Ben Lankford.  The model is plank on bulkhead construction at 1/4” to the foot scale (1:48) with single planking and scratch built details/fittings.  I made a number of changes in both model design and construction sequence and these were discussed in my earlier posts.
 
My Fair American build has been in layup (storage) since 11/2011 due to conflicts with my consulting and full size shipbuilding projects.  After working a number of full scale shipbuilding projects in the US and Canada and two home moves, I am now starting to resume my model shipbuilding.  My shop/residence has moved from Hancock, NH to Indio, CA.  My shop in Indio is located in my garage where summer temperatures limit construction to the morning hours.  As I am still busy with several consulting projects, there may still be a need for short breaks in my construction activities.
 
Note: This is a restart of my earlier 14 Brig Fair American build log posted in 2014-2015.  The actual construction work on this model was started in 2011.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith

Thanks for your interest and likes.  After 7 years away I am now starting to get back into ship modeling.  Still have to sort of the rest of my tools and supplies but I am getting there.
 
The Brig Fair American is a good looking model, but the kit has problems (bulkheads don't fair, bulwark height, etc.).   I would not recommend it as a first build.
 
Regards,
Pete