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Using ink to simulate tarring in deck planking.


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Good evening from Tulsa, Oklahoma.  I'm new to the forum and new to modeling and just hope I ask questions that make some sense.  I've just started my build of the Bluenose II by Artesania Latina.  Eventually, I will be edge marking the deck planks to simulate deck tarring.  A number of modelers I've talked to say stay away from edge marking with any pencil lead because it leaves indelible smudges after sanding.  Others recommend marker pens.  I've tried some marker pens but the ink weeps away from the edges onto the tops of small test planks I'm using.  The test planks I'm using come from the 0.6 mm x 5 mm basswood planks in the AL kit.  Can of any of you experienced modelers recommend inks that won't smudge on sanding, or if that is unfeasible, recommend other ways to edge mark the planks?

 

One way or another, I'm going to build this exquisite model.  It is so beautiful.

 

Stephen Walters 

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Welcome to MSW Stephen,

Black tissue gift wrap paper works beautifully.  You can get a package at a craft store like Michaels for a under $2US and it  will last a long time.   The appearance is much more clear than pencil or inked edges but does take a little more time than the pencil or inking method.  If the scale is smaller, such as 1:98,  I would go with pencil or marker ink.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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6 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Black tissue gift wrap paper works beautifully. 

Allan, I have been fiddling around with paper and so far I am making a mess of it. I really like the results others have achieved with paper and hoped it would pop up in this thread. Is there a description somewhere of how to get it right?

 

Thanks,

Bruce

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Stephen For the tissue I apply a light coat of white or yellow glue to one  edge of the plank.  If it is to be tapered, make sure that is done first.   Lay the plank with the glued edge onto the paper which should be on a flat surface.  It will dry in a few minutes.  I use a scalpel, as the blades are sharper and cheaper than  Xacto  blades, to cut the the plank away from the sheet, them trim any excess paper left hanging.  Sorry I do not have any photos that would make it easier to describe.  If this still not enough info, let me know and I will try to make up a couple planks with tissue and take photos.   

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Lay the plank with the glued edge onto the paper,,,

Sometimes the obvious needs to be said. Your way makes so much more sense than my 'take-the-paper-to-the-plank' attempts.

Thanks,

Bruce

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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11 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

Pencil works just fine. 

It is also easy to do after the plank is glued in place.  Doesn't have to be soft lead either, which is more prone to smudging.

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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I’m in the pencil camp.

 

one thing to consider if you’ve not already: experiment with the different techniques before applying them to the model itself.  I saw other modelers posting mockups and test runs and it kinda struck me as a blinding flash of the obvious: we can practice things!

 

good luck!

 

====================================

Currently building: Model Expo AMERICA, A/L KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

 

Completed: Mamoli Victory cross-section, Revell LSM (Plastic, in memory of Dad), A/L SANSON tug, MS Longboat (awesome model Chuck!), Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing runabout, A/L SWIFT, MS ELSIE, Constructo ELIDIR (now LOUISE), Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Amati 1:80 Yacht ENDEAVOUR, Mamoli CONSTITUTION cross section, Revell VIIc U-boat (1:72 plastic), lotsa other plastic ships 

 

Next up: who knows - there are too many to choose from!

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I have used both thread and pencil, but prefer pencil because it is easier to do and I like that you do not end up with clean lines. Although you may get (light) smudging when sanding, I like the look after staining with light oak. Maybe without staining it is less attractive so that could be a deciding factor.  Picture below is the stained deck using pencil.

20200730_161004.jpg

Bounty - Billing Boats

Le Mirage - Corel

Sultan Arab Dhow - Artesania Latina

Royal Caroline - Panart (in progress)

Yacht Admiralty Amsterdam - Scratch build (design completed, sourcing materials)

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41 minutes ago, Stephen Walters said:

Ah, good idea, Gregory.  I'll try it.

 

Stephen

PS

Here is a post I made with an image of my method..

 

 

 

Just running the pencil over the exposed edge corner is all that is needed.  The actual face of the edge will never be seen.

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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This is only my opinion:  While deck plank seams on real ships were filled with jet-black tar - at model scale - I think the jet-black appearance created by ink or black paper draws the eye; it's "too black".  I always prefer the appearance of plank edges darkened with pencil.  

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28 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said:

Stephen,

 

I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics.

 

Regards from the shipyard,

Pete

DSCN8845.JPG

image0091.jpg

 

image0165.jpg

26 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said:

Stephen,

 

I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics.

 

Regards from the shipyard,

Pete

DSCN8845.JPG

image0091.jpg

 

image0165.jpg

3 hours ago, PietFriet said:

I have used both thread and pencil, but prefer pencil because it is easier to do and I like that you do not end up with clean lines. Although you may get (light) smudging when sanding, I like the look after staining with light oak. Maybe without staining it is less attractive so that could be a deciding factor.  Picture below is the stained deck using pencil.

20200730_161004.jpg

 

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#2 should work. 

 

You will find there is a lot of trial & error, experimentation and such with this hobby.

 

Remember you can always take a few pieces of deck planking and try things before hand.

 

I would think your model is a 1/64 scale and at that scale the caulking would be very, very narrow. So narrow that some believe it isn't necessary.

Current build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

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44 minutes ago, CPDDET said:

You will find there is a lot of trial & error, experimentation and such with this hobby.

 

Remember you can always take a few pieces of deck planking and try things before hand.

By following this suggestion you will find the results of your wood, your glue and your sanding/scraping materials. All three affect the outcome and you may find that you just don't like carrying out a particular process despite liking the results other builders have produced.

I sympathise, and a few experiments with the scrap wood from your kit will tell you a lot. 

 

 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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When I built my MS Smoothbore Cannon, I used a Sharpie "Permanent" marker for the caulking. Big mistake! After I glued the decking to the ply subdeck, the marker ink ran al over the place while the glue dried ovenight. Had to remove the planks and start again. MS sent me a new set of deck planks free.

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Is there a chance the paint will bleed into the wood and not just show up on the edge?

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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26 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Is there a chance the paint will bleed into the wood and not just show up on the edge?

I would definitely coat the wood with a thin coat of shellac to prevent absorption of black paint into the wood. (It would probably be less of a problem if you sprayed the black paint, but why take a chance?)

 

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