ulrich

hi Guys,
 
The construction started with the marking of the keel from the plan. The plan is a construction drawing, it is not made for model building. All dimensions are in 1:1. As always, everything is then sawn out and put together.
 
Pictures say more than 1000 words, so see!
 
Regards kay

Hello,
about your nice hints and positive comments.
I am extremely happy.
Here we go on with the building report:
Further details have been installed, such as pin rails.

 

 

 
 

@albert
Thanks for the nice feedback.
 
After the completion of the supports of the channels I looked back as the model looked without equipment.
Four years have now passed.
If I compare the state of the model from the year 2012 with today's so, it is already
sobering.
 

On the one hand, I find that a lot of details have now accumulated on the ship model. On the other hand, other model builders build complete models with full rigging during this time.


Nevertheless, I will continue soon ...

I am not offering the 1765 version of the kit. I don't think I have ever stated I was. The truth is that if that version was offered, no matter how much aesthetically pleasing it would look, it would not sell well enough to justify the extra development costs.
 
Anyway, I have been working on Prince, and while waiting for the new carvings to arrive, I made up the new spiral staircases. The old ones were Amati fittings, and each set was exactly the same. I designed the new sets to reflect the ones on the Science Museum contemporary model, with the correct number of steps and decoration for the side rails (laser cut and PE parts). Everything on the deck is dry-fitted only, and nothing is finished or varnished yet..
 



 

I finished the second layer of planking. I wasn't real sure how to handle the transition into the keel and ultimately I just transitioned to a single 1/32" plank and then transitioned to the first layer of planks just past the garboard strake. I did this to keep the width of the keel per the original plans.
 
I put a coat of primer on which revealed a few areas that still need a bit of work. Mainly that transition around the garboard strake. I'm using model expo paint applied with a brush. On some of my hulls I've gone for a highly polished surface and I didn't want to do that here because I plan to paint it and I want it to look vintage ~1910 & still be able to see some of the plank lines & I think a sprayed and polished paint job would look like a modern fiberglass hull. 
 
Anyways, here is where I'm at & I'll work on a few spots and then start the deck planking. Nice to be moving on to another phase. 
 

 

 

 

Here is where I'm at with the hull. I had put this project down for a while because I really didn't know how to proceed. I wasn't pleased with the hull shape and didn't want to start over at this point and it wasn't that bad... mainly, some flat spots between bulkheads. So as I said, my intention is to fill the flat spots, create a reasonably decent hull shape and then plank over it. 
 
The challenge now is getting the shape. You can see I've added a few shaped 1/32 pieces of wood in a few areas to build up the worst flat spots. I was reluctant to do this because I knew once I deviated from the framing to get the hull shape I'd have to rely on eye to get it right... I think it will be ok, just taking my time at this point. 
 

 

I have a couple of pics of Prince, the first is the hull structure before planking:
 

 
And this is Prince waiting for the new decoration:
 

Thanks for notice Ulises Victoria, these big models will follow later. I think there will be more models like the Royal Luis which will need some adjustments.
 
Bill-I know that some of the Mamoli models are not historicaly accurate but some people like it so until there will be interest I will produce them (just economy). Today everyone have enought information too choose models after their own opinion and preference, someone like historical accuracy, someone like models more like decoration. 

Hi Guys,
 
I'm back, I haven't been around lately for several reasons, the main reason being that through my own stupidity my Laptop crashed, I wont go into detail but suffice to say it stopped working.
 
Through the help of several friends I am now back on line and raring to go, I have at this stage got to thank Carl ( cog ) for all his help and assistance, it's down to you that I'm back ( you can get him later guys ). A big THANK YOU Carl, your a diamond.
 
A lot of progress has been made since my last post so I will be doing a few post in succession to try and catch up.
 
 
The hull with the mast a yard to the front, these were quite simple to build due mainly to there being no fiddly bits, all that I changed were the pulley wheels in the masthead,
 
The Hull with Mast and Yard in the fore.

 
The Mast Head, with the replaced pulleys.

 
This is the main fixing point for the Yard, 3mm Morope seized on with .75mm black thread.

 
                                                                       Now for some Sail Making
 
The sail is made from a sheet of kit supplied Calico, this was first washed and ironed then cut diagonally from corner to corner, then I stained one piece with 4 teabags in boiling water, this was left for several hours until it got to the colour I wanted. When dry it was ironed again the edges were brushed with diluted PVA.
The Bolt-rope was made from 1mm Caldercraft rope, the lengths were measured and Becket's tied in.
the Bolt-rope was laid on the edge of the sail and the edge was then folded over the rope and again given a coat of PVA.
 

 
The bolt-rope is now fitted and the PVA has dried.

 
One of the three Becket's

 
The sail has now been marked up with pencil and is now ready to go to the seamstress.

 
The seamstress has done her job and a nice job at that. ( think I'll keep her on ).

 
Next up was to stretch the sail and fix it to the yard. The Becket's were tied using .5mm black thread. I then started to stitch fixing loops onto the sail.

 
With all the loops stitched on the sail was bent to the yard using .75mm black thread. The sail has now been completely bent to the mast and the Reev's also attached.

 
The completed sail.

 
That's it for now guys, a further update will follow very shortly.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Pretty much there now. Just bit of tidying up and a few more rigging lines.
 
Sorry about the small photos again but I will be doing a finished set of photos with a proper background so I'll try and make them bigger then.
 
 

Like John, I clove hitch down to 1/96 scale. I prefer the way the ratlines hang when tied with a clove hitch. If you use an overhand knot, the line on one side of the knot hangs nicely, but on the other side, it starts with an upward wave.
 
Below 1/96, I would probably just consider gluing. But then, I've never built anything with ratlines smaller than 1/96.
 
Clare

at 1/72 or smaller, I glue the ratlines to the shrouds. Then add a blob of white wood glue at each joint to simulate the 'knot' and paint the whole thing matt black when dry.
 
In my opinion, actual knots at that size are hugely over scale and (to my eye) look rather clumsy.

I hate the ratlines!!!

Just completed the tiller after mounting the rudder.  It was cut from a 1/8" thick sheet of boxwood.  Then it was carefully rounded off and shaped using files and sanding sticks.   I could have left it natural but it just looked to bright and "blah" looking.  So I painted it red and highlighted the parts of the handle on tiller.  I like this much better.   I am sure everyone has their preference but I have also seen the tiller painted black on contemporary models.   I dont think I would have liked it like that.
 

 
Next up I will be making the bowsprit.  Here are some overall shots with the deck almost completed except for the bowsprit bits and bow chasers.
 

 

 
Chuck

Here's a small update on Speedwell. Her main deck has been completely framed with beams, carlings, ledges hanging and lodging knees.That was rather routine but boring work which occupied me for a few months. As a change of pace I made most of the deck fittings but none are permanently affixed as yet. Currently, I am working on the capstan and have just finished the tapered barrel.
 
Just a tip for you novices regarding gratings. Ideally they should have full courses all around (see photos). It is easier to cut your gratings to the the size that accomplishes this first. Then build your coamings around them. If the result is a gratings assembly that is a hair larger or smaller than the plan so be it.
 




 

Hi all,
Here is some photo of first redesigned frameworks-Roter Lowe, HMS Prince and Gretel-these new designs include solid wood keel, precut gunports and etc.. I hope building of these kits will be more easy now.
Best regards
Daniel Dusek

Hi Gents,
Here we are again with a long overdue update, I know work on the boat has slowed for reasons I will give later but this is bordering stupid. I can only say I'm being bone idol.
 
Right, thanks to all for your comments and for hitting the like button, I do appreciate you looking in.
 
I apologize for the jumpy nature of the photos but this is mainly due to a lot of the jobs on the boat being small and don't appear to be note worthy, before you know it a lot has been achieved and not a lot recorded.
 
The deck is made from Swiss Pine and really is just a framework for the Gratings and Boards. The deck boards are of 8m x 2m Red Heart, I made a guide frame so that I could sand the outer edges of the boards down to 1mm, these then sat  flush inside the frame.
The Gratings are from the kit and not the best, they came up short and so a mish mash was fitted together, not great but acceptable.

 
The lower deck with completed boards and gratings, the anti slip bars are 2m x 2m Holly

 
The forward Bulkhead has now been planked but is still work in progress, the planks are 5m x 1m Walnut.

 
The second deck has been given the same treatment as the main deck and is dry fitted in position, the top deck has been planked using 5m x 1m Walnut planks.

 
The stern weather boards have been fitted and are made from 8m x 2m planks, these have been fixed to the 7m x 1m Walnut of the first planking. I have also started to fit the aft ribs which are 2m x 2m Lime strips, soaked then shaped.

 
All the decks have now been fixed, bulkheads planked and all ribs are in place. The Transom hatch has been made from a  Lime frame and Walnut boards. the aft stringers are seen ready to be fitted.

 
Here the aft stringers are being glued in.

 
The Port side stringers are completed and have been pinned using cut down flat head pins.

 
I do have more progress to report and show but that will be for another post, I promise it wont be as long this next time.
 
Hope you enjoy them guys.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

What has left is the “key” of the shackle.
You might find your way to represent that “key” but following the above method, you have to consider at least the diameter of the holes of the shackles. It’s rather rare to find something to look like nail…3-4 mm long and with less than 0,50 mm in diameter.
 
Thankfully I recalled a tip from another mate some years before.
For those who are not familiar with the inner of a pc, the processor has one of its surfaces full of pins. What I did, is to set up a small fire in my backyard and take the last offer of an Athlon processor….
Then I collected many and ready for use “keys” for my shackles.
For those who will follow the same tip, you will find that many of those pins come out with some lead on their head. Don’t panic. Just keep them with a tweezers over a lighter's flame…

 
....................................................
 
That’s all mates. I hope at least I have inspired you and I’m sorry if you get tired with the use of English language... 
 
Many thanks

Next stage is to give a general “U” shape to those metal pieces.
-So by the use of a rounded nose plier on the edge of a surface (I suggest a wooden one), push each piece to bend it. Be aware, not to exert pressure at the edge of each piece but on the not flattened part of it. Because of the flattening and the hole, the edge has been weakened and you might ruin it. That’s why I mentioned “on the edge of a surface”.
 
-It’s also important to bend them symmetrical so that the edges be equal to each other.
 
-At this stage, when you have “U” shaped them all…you must align the holes on each metal piece by both axis.  

 
Finally, we come to the last stage.
Take every “U” shaped metal piece and place it under that modified hinge and in specific, between the pivot and a wooden pad. Then with a round nose plier exert pressure on the metal piece at the same time at both sides of the hinge. One or two passes will give you that “Ω” shape-the result you want. No need to mention, practice always leads to improvement…

I'm afraid I find rigging to be extremely tedious and it is the least liked part of a build for me.
 
 
Sorry..   

That's excellent news Daniel!
 
You must now have a HUGE pile of work ahead of you. Are the Mini-Mamoli kits going to continue to use pre-carved hulls? Just curious.
 
I expect to find out that you'll be locked away in a ship model kit designing dungeon for many months to come!
 
Best of luck with the new product line. I'll be looking forward to seeing the new re-releases.
 
Clare

Thanks Edwin!
 
A little more progress to report. The lower windows are made up of 6 pieces. After drilling & filing out the window areas I CAREFULLY bent the pieces to fit. Then I painted the window frames white,the surrounding areas with Vallejo light sea blue,& the columns gold. After gluing them in place I think they look ok. I will use the liquid window maker to simulate the glass after all the glue is dry. The windows across the back slant outward pretty close to what the plans show. The joints between the windows fit good,so I didn`t need to use any filler - just a couple of paint spots to touch up.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark
 
 

2nd planking sounds so easy when reading the instructions. Progress has been accomplished - one side done. Tried to follow the "planking for beginners" guide but ran into so many issues. Covering with copper will be helpful in masking mistakes - I mean my individuality. 
Next - 2nd plank the other side - gap filler both sides then sand - stain the walnut darker (thinking this will make a better contrast) - then copper plates. Sounds simple when you list your tasks but nothing surer it wont be.
 

Greetings again,
 
Did I mention how much I love the lines of this catboat? A credit to Bluejacket for making this kit available.
 
Now the first question I had was would this work as a launch for the Victory?

 
A little too big I guess.
 
I've applied and cleaned up the grouting (1 part ebony to 4 parts walnut Elmer's wood filler). I plan to apply a waterbased clear satin poly by Minwax which seems to work on my test piece.



 
Thanks for following everyone.
 
Best, Ian

If you consider that each rope on a ship is either being hauled on or slacked off to accomplish some task you will quickly see that there needs to be some length on the hauling end of the rope that will need to be coiled on the belaying pin.
 
Take for example a halyard.  With the yard in the lowered position the blocks for the halyard tackle are at their farthest apart.  There is a certain amount of rope that makes up this tackle.  As the yard is hoisted by hauling on the tackle fall these blocks get closer together and all of that rope that used to be in between the blocks is now in your hands at the working end.  That is the rope that must be coiled and hung on the belaying pin.
 
All of the lines on the ship function this way.  So, there will almost always be a coil of line to be found at the working end.
 
Regards,