Bob Cleek

No, never use cyano for rigging. use watered down PVA wood glue and brush it onto the knots. Wait to cure and then trim the excess. Also, use clove hitch knots for the ratlines.
 
But do not use super glue!

It will if the thread used to make the line has small enough fibers, which is usually the case with 'rope' from a source like Syren..
I wouldn't use CA because of the shine.

I use Gutermann thread, no problems using CA and it paints and stains, for me. Scott, buy a spool (one spool is cheap) and test it. Always test materials before making any type of commitment for use on rigging. Rigging is too time consuming and difficult to mess around with untested materials, IMHO.   

IMHO, shellac is an excellent option as a rigging "fixative."  Shellac comes in a wide range of colors, generally shades of "garnet." It's not a good option for coloring line, though, because the pigment is carried in the alcohol solution, so the more shellac you apply, the darker the color will get if you are using unbleached shellac. That makes it somewhat difficult to get a consistent shade of color with it when applied here and there on a piece. The type to use has the color bleached out of it. It's called "clear" or "white" shellac. It's invisible when applied. Best to address the desired color to the underlying material and use clear shellac for securing knots. I expect fine furniture makers may have a reason for using flake shellac and mixing their own with alcohol, but I've never seen the point in messing with raw shellac in flake form when it can be so easily purchased already dissolved and ready to use. 

It appears to be Douglas fir (AKA "Oregon pine") as one might expect, given this species' local availability. (It's definitely not redwood, which is not suitable for decking or any other exposed wood surface which may encounter bare feet. It's splinters fester almost immediately.)
 
I appears from the pictures above, and the notation that it's a new deck, the unnatural coloration of what should be quarter-sawn stock appears to be the result of having been recently sanded level and not yet refinished. They probably applied sealer for the purpose of caulking the seams and stopping them with seam compound. The procedure then would be to scrape and sand the cured seam compound fair to the deck which generally requires a thorough sanding with a belt or floor sander. The color "figuring" on the deck is merely the pattern of high points sanded fair, which removed sealer in those areas. After that, and when the sawdust was vacuumed up, (which is the point where the photos above appear to be taken,) a final coat of sealer could be applied, or not, depending upon the wishes of the owners.

One of these smaller sized "crock pots" ("slow cookers") would serve for keeping hide glue heated, wouldn't it? No need to spring for a Lee Valley or Garret Wade $150 model, right?   0.65 qt slow cooker warmer, fondue pot set,chocolate melting pot (amazon.com) 
 

 

In high school, ovver fifty years ago now, I used this heated foil printing process when working in the school library to mark the spines of books with Dewey Decimal System shelving information. We used the foil with a wood-burning pen (small soldering iron) with a small point. The foil came in a range of colors, but we generally only used black and white, depending upon the color of the book's spine. It was easy to use and I never encountered any problems with it rubbing off, even though books in circulation lived a hard life. 

Hear! Hear! Quite true. That's a link worth saving. 
 
That said, keep in mind that the same decent twenty wire gauge bits from size 61 to 80 that come in the Rogers set from MicroMark at a cost of about $30.00 (+S/H) from McMaster-Carr will cost you $56.34 (+S/H) (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-bits/drill-bits-11/system-of-measurement~wire-gauge/) The same size range of 20 lower quality bits in the usual cheapo Chinese wooden box packaged in tubes of ten bits of each size plus a similarly cheapo pin vise costs $39.00 (+S/H.) The same number of bits of the same sizes, without the fancy wooden box and additional pin vise (Oh, wow! I know... ) purchased from McMaster-Carr will cost you $563.40 (+S/H). You sure better get what you pay for! 
 
My point in this discussion is that one should consider their needs and decide how to spend their money. If I were doing fine metal work, I'd definitely spring for a few of the good ones in the sizes I needed. For wood working on models, I've found that the cheapo ones suffice. Do they break more easily? Yes, but I'm not using mine on high speed drill presses and Dremel tools. When one breaks, I just take another one out of the tube. If and when I run out of the bits in the tube, then I'll know which higher priced bits I'm going to buy from McMaster-Carr and how many I might want to keep in stock to replace those that dull or break. If you buy the Rogers set, I guarantee you will break a bit in short order and you'll then have to go get another one (and if you are smart, you'll buy a few at a time to avoid the inconvenience of always having to stop work to get another bit.) Thus, the sooner you identify the sizes you use the most and lay in a stock of those sizes, the happier camper you will be. That said, I found that buying the range of bits from MicroMark in the tubes containing ten bits when they were on sale for half price set me up pretty well for a long time now and saved me the trouble of having to go and buy single bits to keep my Rogers drill index full. 
 
Besides, depending on the scale one is working with, I doubt many would find the full range of 20 incrementally sized bits between 61 and 80 really necessary. One can cut the price of a set of quality bits in half if they wish by simply buying every other size in the series and making do with ten instead of 20 size choices.

The first MicroMark link in my post was to the black drill index with sizes 61 to 80 long known as the "Rogers wire drill set." I've always found the "Roger's" brand to be quality bits and they are priced higher for that reason, I suppose. Buyer beware! There are Chinese knock-offs of the old tried and true Rogers bit set that appear nearly identical, save that they are branded as  "Gyros" or not branded at all. Given the lower price asked for these, I can't believe the bits are all that good because that's the only way they can reduce production costs.
 
I can't speak to the quality of the boxed set of tubes full of bits pictured. I've not bought them, but I have bought similar tubes from "the usual suspects" and found them useable for modeling purposes. I don't doubt the case is cheaply constructed and the bits duller than professional machinist-level bits costing several times as much. I found them offered from https://www.pjtool.com/ which is a mail order company out of Edgewood, New York. It appears that they sell Asian knock-offs of lots of small tools modelers would be interested in using. They have a big selection of hemostats, forceps, and clamps, a lot of other modeling hand tools. Their prices seem rather reasonable, and what you'd expect for "Harbor Freight quality." That said, a lot of Harbor Freight hand tools are quite suitable for hobby use. We're not doing open heart surgery with them. I've never done business with them, but the prices are low enough I'd expect anybody could afford to risk a few bucks on a tool and see if it was worth it. If anybody's done business with them, chime in. 

Good advice. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt! I ordered a set of the ten-bit tubes in the 20 sizes in the old standby Rogers wire drill bit set from MicroMark or Model Expo (can't remember which) when they had a big sale on them and found the wrong sizes in some and less than ten bits in others. I complained and they send me the correct sizes and missing bits. I expect these are made in China and not the highest quality, but I have found them suitable for modeling purposes. I wouldn't recommend them for clockmaking, though!  

Get the below set of wire bits sizes 61 to 80 and you'll be covered up to around a 64th of an inch. Then buy a small set of bits between a 32nd or 16th of an inch and a half inch and you should be well covered. The Rogers bit set pictured below gives you one bit for each size in a handy covered drill index, but you will break them every so often, so you need to have spares on hand.  It's worth the price, though, because you get a nifty drill-index for them which is definitely handy for keeping your "in use" bit separate from your new bit stock. (The do dull with use over time and you don't want to mix up your dull ones with your sharp ones in the tubes.) Get on Model Expo and MicroMark's email lists (sign up on their websites.) When one of them has a sale on mini-drill bits, which will come in tubes holding ten of the same size, buy one of each size. (Sometimes the prices are as low as half-off.)  Better yet, buy the second set pictured below which has tubes of ten bits each of the same size ranges in a nice case.
 
https://www.micromark.com/The-Rogers-Drill-Bit-Set-61-80-Set-of-20?msclkid=312a1cafe1631f9090b778b70e4777de&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NX_NTM_Shopping_Segregated&utm_term=4576442278804873&utm_content=Drill Bits
 

 
 
https://www.pjtool.com/542-100-pc-micro-drill-bit-set-with-pin-vise-drill.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=numbered micro drill bit set&utm_content=Tool- PLA- Shopping&utm_campaign=Tool- PLA- Shopping&msclkid=b9a9d42bc2af16550898b0332a96c

 
The boxed set also contains what appears to be a decent pin vise to go with them. These small bits won't survive use in a high speed rotary tool, so you'll get a lot of use out of the pin vise which has four collet chucks inside it to properly hold the full range of bit sizes in the set. (Or you can spend a few bucks more and treat yourself to a nice set of top of the line Starrett pin vises.
 
Starrett Pin Vise Set, 0.010-0.200, Taper, 4Pc S240Z | Zoro

 
 

There's much wisdom, experience, and good advice in what NavyShooter has posted.
 
Buy the best you can. The most expensive tool is always the one you have to buy twice. 

Good point about the sanding grit getting in the saw's innards. The sanding disk is a fairly common practice with full-size table saws, though, and I've not heard of any problems there. I expect the use of an attached vacuum would be highly advisable if you were sanding. Switching between blade and sanding disk would definitely be a pain, which is why buying both a saw and sander from Byrnes makes the most sense.  
 
If you're in need of a disk sander and short on cash, the lucky thing is that a disk sander is about the easiest power tool to make yourself. 

See item #81018 Paasche H Series Single-Action Airbrush Set, airbrush painting set, for detailed airbrushing and coverage, H-3AS (micromark.com)
 
and
 
item #86112  MicroLux® Single Action Airbrush Set (micromark.com)
 

 

 
One says Paasche and the other doesn't. Can you tell them apart otherwise? One is half the price of the other.

MicroMark offers a Paasche single-action airbrush and for half the price what appears to be the identical item by MicroMark. The online catalog photos of the two airbrushes are identical. Could it be that one is a Chinese counterfeit, or is it just that they are pushing the MicroMark branded airbrush by showing an identical one marked up in price so shoppers will think they are getting a bargain buying the MicroMark one. If MicroMark is pulling this sort of thing, should they not be added to MSW's "rogues gallery" of pirate retailers?

That will get you a bit ahead of the game, but if you really want to get way out ahead, quit buying hugely overpriced rattle cans and spraying the paint out of them to load your airbrush. Instead, use canned paints and thin them to suit. (1-Shot Lettering Enamel is especially good, although glossy and will require a bit of flattening solution.) Alternately, you can use tubed artists oils and acrylics, mixing your own colors (or buying ready-mixed, if you wish) and thinning with the appropriate spraying conditioners and solvents for use in your airbrush. In terms of quantity, rattle can paint is very expensive stuff.

It appears to be Douglas fir (AKA "Oregon pine") as one might expect, given this species' local availability. (It's definitely not redwood, which is not suitable for decking or any other exposed wood surface which may encounter bare feet. It's splinters fester almost immediately.)
 
I appears from the pictures above, and the notation that it's a new deck, the unnatural coloration of what should be quarter-sawn stock appears to be the result of having been recently sanded level and not yet refinished. They probably applied sealer for the purpose of caulking the seams and stopping them with seam compound. The procedure then would be to scrape and sand the cured seam compound fair to the deck which generally requires a thorough sanding with a belt or floor sander. The color "figuring" on the deck is merely the pattern of high points sanded fair, which removed sealer in those areas. After that, and when the sawdust was vacuumed up, (which is the point where the photos above appear to be taken,) a final coat of sealer could be applied, or not, depending upon the wishes of the owners.

I am just speculating, but  Old Brown and Franklin hide glues are convenient because they are used at room temp.  The downside is that the water concentration has to be high enough to produce unwanted side effects in the wood being glued.   If you are serious, you might oughta pay the price of the hassle of a glue pot.   The water concentration is just enough to get a fluid - if you do it correctly.
I break my rules this one time and use a man made synthetic -PVA  - because a hot pot is too much extra work.

Two pins, actually. Drive them at opposing angles so they hold better. Your rigging lines will belay to these cleats and you don't want the tension on the lines pulling them off. Simply gluing them in place won't provide sufficient shear strength to prevent pulling them off. 
 
As for finish, it may well depend upon the period in which your prototype was built. Generally speaking, wooden cleats are left bare because this provides the better friction to hold the belaying hitches in place. They may also be oiled, in which case they'd be very dark brown or black at a scale viewing distance. Sometimes, too, though, they may be painted the same as the surrounding area or white for visibility at night. There aren't a lot of hard and fast rules on cleat colors. This is an area where the modeler gets to exercise some artistic license in the absence of any reliable historical record for a given vessel.

It appears to be Douglas fir (AKA "Oregon pine") as one might expect, given this species' local availability. (It's definitely not redwood, which is not suitable for decking or any other exposed wood surface which may encounter bare feet. It's splinters fester almost immediately.)
 
I appears from the pictures above, and the notation that it's a new deck, the unnatural coloration of what should be quarter-sawn stock appears to be the result of having been recently sanded level and not yet refinished. They probably applied sealer for the purpose of caulking the seams and stopping them with seam compound. The procedure then would be to scrape and sand the cured seam compound fair to the deck which generally requires a thorough sanding with a belt or floor sander. The color "figuring" on the deck is merely the pattern of high points sanded fair, which removed sealer in those areas. After that, and when the sawdust was vacuumed up, (which is the point where the photos above appear to be taken,) a final coat of sealer could be applied, or not, depending upon the wishes of the owners.

Well, just imagine it.
 
Which sails would be set would depend upon whether or not the wind was blowing and, if so, how hard and in what direction. simple as that. There could be no hard and fast rules. In the 1500's, for sure, it could take weeks or months to await a favorable tide and a fair wind to escape a harbor.
 
Given the limitations of many harbors and the risks imposed in trying to sail large ships in tight quarters, I would expect that the majority of ships were towed out of the harbor far enough that they had a wide berth to work far enough off shore to set sail to their best advantage. In the 1500's, towing was accomplished by oarsmen in small craft rowing so as to tow the boat toward the open sea. Sometimes these small boats were the ship's own boats which were taken aboard once  the ship was under way. Other times, the small boats were supplied by shoreside companies that provided such services for a fee. In fact, most of the U.S. tug boat companies like Crowley and Foss got their starts in this fashion.

Well, just imagine it.
 
Which sails would be set would depend upon whether or not the wind was blowing and, if so, how hard and in what direction. simple as that. There could be no hard and fast rules. In the 1500's, for sure, it could take weeks or months to await a favorable tide and a fair wind to escape a harbor.
 
Given the limitations of many harbors and the risks imposed in trying to sail large ships in tight quarters, I would expect that the majority of ships were towed out of the harbor far enough that they had a wide berth to work far enough off shore to set sail to their best advantage. In the 1500's, towing was accomplished by oarsmen in small craft rowing so as to tow the boat toward the open sea. Sometimes these small boats were the ship's own boats which were taken aboard once  the ship was under way. Other times, the small boats were supplied by shoreside companies that provided such services for a fee. In fact, most of the U.S. tug boat companies like Crowley and Foss got their starts in this fashion.

Well, just imagine it.
 
Which sails would be set would depend upon whether or not the wind was blowing and, if so, how hard and in what direction. simple as that. There could be no hard and fast rules. In the 1500's, for sure, it could take weeks or months to await a favorable tide and a fair wind to escape a harbor.
 
Given the limitations of many harbors and the risks imposed in trying to sail large ships in tight quarters, I would expect that the majority of ships were towed out of the harbor far enough that they had a wide berth to work far enough off shore to set sail to their best advantage. In the 1500's, towing was accomplished by oarsmen in small craft rowing so as to tow the boat toward the open sea. Sometimes these small boats were the ship's own boats which were taken aboard once  the ship was under way. Other times, the small boats were supplied by shoreside companies that provided such services for a fee. In fact, most of the U.S. tug boat companies like Crowley and Foss got their starts in this fashion.

Here in the Northern California Wine Country, there are lots of micro-breweries and if you go into a big chain drug store and ask for IPA, they're likely to send you to the liquor department where the various boutique brands of IPA, India pale ale, are stocked!  As far as my "gentleman's C" in chemistry gets me. I understand that ethyl alcohol, which is distilled from plant starches, and isopropyl alcohol, which is a product derived from petroleum, are entirely different things. I have always used ethyl alcohol in my shop as a solvent for shellac and, where indicated, for thinning acrylic and latex paints, as well as for a marine stove fuel and I buy it by the gallon tin. I've never used it for dissolving PVA adhesive, but I've heard many recommend isopropyl alcohol for that purpose, but never ethyl alcohol. Do any of the chemists in attendance, or even anybody who plays a chemist on the internet, know whether, when we talk about using alcohol for dissolving PVA adhesive or conditioning acrylic paint, it makes any difference whether we use ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol for such purposes, or are the two completely interchangeable?
 

Here in the Northern California Wine Country, there are lots of micro-breweries and if you go into a big chain drug store and ask for IPA, they're likely to send you to the liquor department where the various boutique brands of IPA, India pale ale, are stocked!  As far as my "gentleman's C" in chemistry gets me. I understand that ethyl alcohol, which is distilled from plant starches, and isopropyl alcohol, which is a product derived from petroleum, are entirely different things. I have always used ethyl alcohol in my shop as a solvent for shellac and, where indicated, for thinning acrylic and latex paints, as well as for a marine stove fuel and I buy it by the gallon tin. I've never used it for dissolving PVA adhesive, but I've heard many recommend isopropyl alcohol for that purpose, but never ethyl alcohol. Do any of the chemists in attendance, or even anybody who plays a chemist on the internet, know whether, when we talk about using alcohol for dissolving PVA adhesive or conditioning acrylic paint, it makes any difference whether we use ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol for such purposes, or are the two completely interchangeable?