md1400cs

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks, so nice of you to look back in for a response. I have decided to add the two missing longitudinal planks. For the fix I also want to also try out the milling tool,
 
I just need to figure out how to brace long thin strips of wood to add a groove to the two long trim pieces (see pic below). The idea is to emulate the 1/10th. That yellow piece in the pic is what I would like it to look like. 
 
However the trim pieces are only 3 mm wide, and some 50 mm long,  so my lack of any skills with this new mill may cause a bit of frustration. Alternatively I will just forgo the grooves.
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks, so nice of you to look back in for a response. I have decided to add the two missing longitudinal planks. For the fix I also want to also try out the milling tool,
 
I just need to figure out how to brace long thin strips of wood to add a groove to the two long trim pieces (see pic below). The idea is to emulate the 1/10th. That yellow piece in the pic is what I would like it to look like. 
 
However the trim pieces are only 3 mm wide, and some 50 mm long,  so my lack of any skills with this new mill may cause a bit of frustration. Alternatively I will just forgo the grooves.
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks, so nice of you to look back in for a response. I have decided to add the two missing longitudinal planks. For the fix I also want to also try out the milling tool,
 
I just need to figure out how to brace long thin strips of wood to add a groove to the two long trim pieces (see pic below). The idea is to emulate the 1/10th. That yellow piece in the pic is what I would like it to look like. 
 
However the trim pieces are only 3 mm wide, and some 50 mm long,  so my lack of any skills with this new mill may cause a bit of frustration. Alternatively I will just forgo the grooves.
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Michael, 
congratulations to your new machine! I am sure, after some attempts with it, you will realize wonderful results.
 
Concerning rigging, I see no major problems for you. In the past you showed us so much skill, therefore I am sure, you will also solve the rigging perfectely.
 
Bye Joachim

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Mark,
 
Thanks. I know that you spent a lot of time with those railings, My mindset was that it was with the milling tool. However your time sure was well spent those metal railings they look so original to the 1:1. Didn't know about all of that plywood, sort of cost cutting on their part .Too bad.
 
But, your build sure is coming out beautifully.
 
Michael

Hello. Just a word of caution here. Unless you want to show the ship as she looks in the museum, remember that Vasa did not have time to "weather" or to show signs of wear and tear. She navigated only about one hour.

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
No need to waffle, as you might have assumed I'm looking forward to visiting your new build log.
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
 
A minor very tiny update, but one that I am actually comfortable with, this one is peaceful for me. It was small but rather labor intensive, as it took several attempts to get "ok".
 
From the first 1/10th pic, I wanted to add these two rope blocks with three pulleys to my weather deck. Below was my solution. The pics are self-explanatory so I won't drone on. A couple of points to note;
 
1) That second drill bit is the one that goes sideways to make trenches (name escapes me)
 
2) I used small cannon rigging blocks to simulate the pulleys within the wood blocks. As you note, I cut them in half and rounded them off. They are a bit oval purposefully.  Once inserted, they didn't crowd the edges within the main block, allowing for rope (I don't plan to add sails (at this point) so these two blocks are just to add detail. I was going to add those small block nails as seen on the 1/10th. Since my build is lacking those in so many places, I skipped that effort.
 
Next up will be to drill all cannon doors hinge, and rope holes. I won't share that (:-), and then on to the ratline hull braces. Looking forward to those.
As usual thanks so much for dropping in, so appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 

Hello all. A small update just to show I have not been procrastinating 
I finished placing all deadeyes in the shrouds, and I'm working on the stays at the moment. When they are done I will rig the lanyards and lastly the dreaded ratlines. Next: Running rigging. Again: Sorry for bad photos.
 
 
 
 

It is always best to use one plan.
problems with using 2 different plans can occure, I made a same mistake in some parts of my Vasa!! (bow part)
 
I have compared now partly the Corel plans with the sources I have till now, and the Corel plan looks ok, some minor differences, but I am also using this to avoid further problems.

John,
 
Nice update. I note that you really get around and have visited several ships, very nice. Good for you. One day I need to get to the East coast, several ships that must be great to board.
 
Michael