UdoK

Almost one year since the last upate, time goes by but the build is still alive.
 
Hull fairing has been completed, all the low frames are filled and sanded again. I have installed one another transom wing and a Piece of wood to support the planking around the rudder opening. Now on to the wales.....
 
In the last Picture you can see some damge on the false keel caused by the 'heavy sanding equipment' during hull sanding. I will probably replace the after part of the false keel after planking is completed.

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Almost one year since the last upate, time goes by but the build is still alive.
 
Hull fairing has been completed, all the low frames are filled and sanded again. I have installed one another transom wing and a Piece of wood to support the planking around the rudder opening. Now on to the wales.....
 
In the last Picture you can see some damge on the false keel caused by the 'heavy sanding equipment' during hull sanding. I will probably replace the after part of the false keel after planking is completed.

Almost one year since the last upate, time goes by but the build is still alive.
 
Hull fairing has been completed, all the low frames are filled and sanded again. I have installed one another transom wing and a Piece of wood to support the planking around the rudder opening. Now on to the wales.....
 
In the last Picture you can see some damge on the false keel caused by the 'heavy sanding equipment' during hull sanding. I will probably replace the after part of the false keel after planking is completed.

Display case,.... the final....
 
today the display case has been completed, and sowith the project is done
 
Nils
 

 
the preliminary "grip" on the upper large glass side is fixed to the wall cupboard and is a useful third "hand" when mounting
 
 

 
 

 
put the model in it`s place already whilst mounting sides and top
 
 

 
pictures taken through the glass never auto-focus correct (sorry for pic quality)
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
I use these screws rather that sink head screws because of the better strength and handling
 
 

 
 

A bit of an update.  First off, here's hull "right-side up".... I'm liking the way she looks.
 

 
I removed some of the build board material around the transom area to give me some working room. If you'll go back to previous pictures, the transom is actually glued to the build board.   When I removed the board, I found some problems with the transom.  Not a show stopper or a big problem.   Some fairing/sanding and maybe removal/replacement of some of the small framing will fix it nicely.  Once fixed, I can continue on with the planking and build up of the transom.
 

 
I also finally took a good look at the interior.  I held off sanding and fairing it because I knew my planking clamps were going to cause <ahem> issues, shall we say.   Now is also the time to fair it out and fix any problems.  I'm not seeing any serious problems, just a lot of sanding and fairing.  So this area, along with the transom is being attended to.  I also wanted to get this out of the way at this point as when I install the galleries, stern windows, etc. removing the sanding dust would be a real problem if I waited to sand until they were done.  Another reason is, I don't want to damage anything with the handling needed during sanding. 
 

 
I have to admit I'm pretty damn happy right now.  The problems are not as bad as I thought they'd be and overall, looking pretty good.

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Tom, I don't know why, I have placed the order in November and received the Shipping info just before Christmas.

I'm not so sure if I understand what you are talking about , is it if I replace the Kit cannons because they are not realistic, are you talking about if I replace the blocks because they aren't to scale, are you talking about replacing cleats that are far too large and bulky, are you talking about replacing cheap rigging to replace it with quality stuff that actually looks good, or, maybe it is replacing the kit supplied dowels because they are warped, or, maybe it is replacing the hull planks because the kit asks for hull to be painted and has supplied crap wood but I want it natural so I replace it with a quality wood ?
I could go on further, but as you can see it is not all by choice why people replace expensive parts and pieces it is the manufacturer supplying inferior parts and material doubled my quest to make the best model to my abilities. I would gladly pay more for a kit if I knew all parts and material were of top quality, however, as the kit manufacturer is trying to keep his costs down and the retail price within reason we will never see this.
 On my current build I have replaced 80 percent of the wood some of it for the reasons mentioned above and  other because I wanted to show my insight and taste to this ship. I think changing different things in a kit does not mean that I should be going to a scratch build I think it means that I have the ingenuity to build a model that is truly unique to me. I agree that a scratch build would do the same but could you imagine how MSW would look if we all built our ships to spec. using nothing but kit supplied material, might just be a little boring.
  So you see, my friend, there several reasons why we do the things we do.
 And as for all my left over wood and parts I'll use that for my first scratch build     
 

To clad the binnacle I used walnut. Not ideal but it is what I have. I stuck a 5mm square block on top and another one on the bottom of the perspex. Since the perspex was only 4.5mm thick I was able to leave a slight overhang top and bottom at the front. 
 
I milled some walnut sheet down to 0.5mm thick and a piece of this was stuck on the front of the perspex to represent the cover over the lamp.
 
The last block was a piece of 2 x 5mm walnut stuck on the bottom .
 
The next photo shows this. It appears on the screen about 8 times full size so rather exposes the irregularities in the surface of the wood!
 

 
The top and bottom blocks were shaped....
 

 
....then the whole was put in the mill to cut out the centre of the top block. 


 
I then added the sides of the lamp flue cover. The following photo reveals a couple of issues.
 
The first is that when I filed up the flue cover I made it about 1mm too narrow. As a result when I later added the glazing bars and other detail the middle section was narrower than the sections either side. Doh. I decided to live with that. Tut tut.
 
The second is the walnut sheet is noticably lighter than the walnut block. I tried "American Walnut" coloured stain on a test piece, but when I tried it on the actual binnacle it looked too red. It also highlighted the grain in an undesirable way.
 
Instead I tried some Raw Umber water colour paint which seemed to give the right result. It doesn't coat like oil or enamel paint and is nearer to a stain. It should be OK once protected with varnish.
 

 
Next was the glazing bars which I made fron 0.5 x 0.5mm walnut which I cut from the sheet. Ideally these should have been of a smaller cross section but the walnut tended to disintegrate below this size.
 
The binnacle on the Amazon model has a plain back. So on mine I made a plain cover from some of the 0.5mm sheet, the edge of which is just visible on the left in the next photo.
 

 
I had intended to detail the three panels across the lower front  but decided against this. I would have used thick cartridge paper for this. The centre panel was too small and just doing the outer panels would have looked odd.
 
The structure was completed by adding the end panals and the top . The bottom of the end panels was shaped to represent the legs.
 
The next photos shows it complete. I will try to get a better photo in daylight. The binnacle is not as blotchy in real life as the photo suggests (honest!). Will try tomorrow when the weather conditions will hopefully be less grotty.
 

 
A shot of the binnacle next to my specs for scale.....
 

 
...and a final shot showing it posed next to the wheel on the ship.
 

 
I will fit some rings to the binnacle later which will be used to "secure" it to the deck.
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Out of the Shipyard talk.
I got sidetracked and went down to the stern to make:
1. platform over the rudder tiller.
2. the rudder tiller.
 
 
The Platform did not take too long to make, but I did want it to clear the tiller - just.
I blackened 5 brass stanchions which will all be glued in place, rope strung when all the deck "goodies" are done and a massive "fitting day". 

 
The Rudder Tiller took longer to make/fit, well to mortise into the rudder. I reckon it took a good 2.5hrs to widdle, drill, shave, my way through to get a firm fit, and doesn't move when fully in. And by some luck sweeps up/tapered just like in AOTS. Very happy with the out come.

 
I am really struggling with the practicality of the "arch" on the end of the tiller.
We can see that the "arch" was probably added to extend the tiller over the fireplace flue. For extra leverage ? or maybe to exclude access to the flue when hot ?
However, by attaching the tiller ropes to the "arch" end, I can see the ropes fowling the flue when the tiller is hard over either way. The ropes would need to be high enough to clear over the flue, and kept taught enough.
I am temped to not add the "arch" and have a double purchase at the end of the tiller.
Ray Parkins book, it is not consistently shown. 
What to do ??
 
 
So by my reckoning, I am am on target to have all the deck finished by the 2 year anniversary of the build - that being 28 April 2016.
 
 
 
Dave R

I know that reviewing pics sometimes helps me determine how I might go about the next build process. We're getting ready to head off to the San Diego Wild Animal Park for the day... so I will do away with the description and throw up some build pics for your reference.

I then placed the Skylight, and began building the Deck House. Before attaching them I did a test fit of the Mizzen Mast and Spider Band because they sit very close and I wanted to make sure there wouldn't be a problem down the line. Seems you always have to think a half dozen steps ahead. 
 
 

Hi all,
planking continues, but while going trough the parts of the kit again I have discovered something strange I didn't realize when opening the kit last year.
The cannon barrels, the ones supplied in the kit are totally oversized. The lenght of them is 45mm, converted to real size at this scale makes something around 3,5 meter.
I can't imagine the Endeavour was equiped with cannons that big.
Is anybody building this kit facing the same Problem?

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

thank you very much, but i dont think that i´m artist, i just like play with paints, anyway its clear that i would like improve my skill.
here are some pics of wheel

Thank you for your Interest Antony!
 
Well, due to usual summer activities not much happend in the shipyard since the last update, but now the Bounty is back on the work bench.
I'am still busy with hull fairing and sanding, although the Frames were preshaped it is a lot left to sand.
A few Frames are undersized, don't know why, might be paper distortion from the copys or carelessness from my side. Anyway, got to fix those spots  with adding woodstrips and sanding.
 
Hopefully it will be done in a few days.....

So I haven't made much progress since my last update, and I've discovered that I don't really like rope coils very much.  Seems like a great thing to dislike given my subject choices, hahaha.. 
 
In any case, I'm working on getting a jig that makes coils I like, and I think I'm getting somewhat close, but still not there.
 
I started working at the stern, and I'm done with the stern, quarter-deck, boom, and shrouds now.  
 

 
The coils are taking much longer than I expected them to, but oh well.  Getting a bit better as I go along.