Glenn-UK

Build Log Index Date: 30/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hour. Total time spent on build: 102 hours. Lower Mast Stays I thought I would share the method I am using to add the lower stays and preventor stays for the main and fore masts. I started this process by cutting 4 lengths of black thread for the fore and main stays and preventor stays. Each of these threads requires a deadeye to be added. I used my quad hands to complete this activity. In the first photo the deadeye and thread has been positioned in the quad hands. I am aware that the threads are fuzzy in the following photos but this will be sorted out. As per normal I am using a series of crossover knots for the seizing. In the next photo I have just started to add the first seizing. In the next photo the first seizing sequence has been completed. I used 5 lower and 5 upper crossover knots. The next two photos shows a stay with both completed seizing's. I am not a fan of the kit supplied mouse’s and I much prefer to make my own. This is quite easy to do. After determining the approximate position for the mouse I use a length of 0.25mm black thread to add a sequence of 5 lower and 5 upper crossover knots. This is shown in the photo below. Using the same thread I then add a series of 3 lower and 3 upper crossover knots centrally on top and then a single sequence centrally on top. The completed mouse is shown in the photo below. The complete mouse can slide up and down the stay if required. A loop is then added to stay using the crossover knot method. This ensures the seizing and loop size can be adjusted as necessary. The completed stay is then added to the mast so the position of the mouse and loop can be adjusted as necessary, as can be seen in the next photo. The lanyard is also test fitted to check if further adjustments are necessary. The final three photo’s shows the completed test fitting of the fore mast stay and preventor stay. I am happy with how they look.

Build Log Index Date: 25/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hour. Total time spent on build: 100hours. Main and Fore Mast Shroud Deadeye The deadeyes have now been added to the fore and main mast lower shrouds and I am happy with how they look. For the most part my method for setting the position of the deadeyes to the same height within the shrouds worked very well. Photo of Starboard Side Fore Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes Photo of Starboard Side Main Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes Photo of Port Side Main Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes. It will not take me long to add the shroud seizing’s. Despite thinking I have a full proof method for setting the shroud deadeyes to the same height something went awry with the two leading deadeyes as can be seen in the next photo. These were the last two deadeye fitted, some maybe I rushed the process. I reworked the offending two shroud deadeyes and I am now happy with how they look. It will not take me long to add the shroud seizing’s. Port Side Fore Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes

Many thanks. My patience does get near to breaking point quite often. 🤣

Build Log Index Date: 25/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hour. Total time spent on build: 96hours. Fore Shroud Deadeye Rework As reported in my last post I was not happy with how the first two fore shroud deadeyes looked, they were not set to the same height, even though the process detailed in my last post usually worked. After carefully unpicking the various seizing threads I started the process once again, with a slight refinement. Using the same jig to determine the deadeye position in the shroud line I inserted the seizing thread to all 4 shroud lines and checked they were all at the same level. The next photo shows the seizing threads in position. With the first two deadeyes inserted in the shrouds the level of the deadeyes was checked. This time around I was much happy with how they look. Confident that the process was working the remaining deadeyes were added to their respective shrouds and the seizing added. As can be seen in the next photo the deadeyes are reasonably level with each other. The lanyards still need a bit of tiding up however. I will now repeat this process for the other shroud lines.

Build Log Index Date: 23/09/2024 Time worked today: 1 hour. Total time spent on build: 94hours. Shroud Deadeye Installation Method and Failure When I tackle a task which has a repetitive nature I like to find a method that will yield constant results. Adding deadeyes to the shrouds is one such process especially as I like to ensure the deadeyes are all set to the same height. I came up with a method which helped me to set the shroud deadeye to the same height using a simple jig which I have used on several of my last builds with great success. It is a simple process, using a simple jig, and should ensure all the deadeyes are set to the same height. There are two prongs which are used to locate the jig in channel deadeye. There are two sets of guide pins on the jig which are used to keep the shroud in place. There is a hole near the top of the jig which is used as the point where the deadeye seizing will start. The photo below shows the jig in place. The shroud has been placed between the top and bottom guides and I have used a spring clamp to provide a little bit of tension to the shroud. The seizing thread, with the aid of a needle, is then passed though shroud and then through the hole in the jig. This reason for this is to ensure the seizing is set to the same place on each shroud line. In the photo below the seizing thread has been added. A loop for the deadeye is formed in the shroud which is then held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, as can be seen in the next two photos. With the shroud still held in the deadeyes the seizing’s above the deadeye are added. In the photo below the first seizing has been added. I did add another seizing whilst the shroud was held in the quad hands. I then repeated the process for the second shroud. As can be seen in the final photo my tried and trusted method has clearly failed spectacularly this time around. I have no explanation why there is such a discrepancy between the height of the first shroud pair. I will remove the deadeyes from these two shrouds and start again. I am also going to think if I can refine the process to prevent such a error occurring.

Build Log Index Date: 21/09/2024 Time worked today: 1 hour. Total time spent on build: 93hours. Hammock Cranes I forgot to add the following photo showing the bowsprit, jibboom and spritsail yard I realised I had not added the hammock cranes to the hull and it is much easier to install these before I start work on the shrouds. There are 16 hammock cranes installed each side. I test fitted each crane before they were glued in place. I used wood glue. Once they were all fitted I added the rigging. I have made the fore and main mast shroud pairs and I am now ready to start work in rigging these.

Build Log Index Date: 19/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 92hours. Bowsprit Installation I have now started the rigging phase of the build. I started by adding and securing the jibboom and spritsail yard to the bowsprit. Once that was done the bowsprit assembly was added to the hull. The first rigging task was to add the gammoning. Next I rigged the spritsail yard lifts. The next photo shows the spritsail yard tye blocking rigging. I made sure the spritsail yard lifts and tyes rigging was fed through the bowsprit fairlead before they were belayed. The second photo shows the belaying of the spritsail tye to a belaying pin. The final photo shows the belaying of the spritsail yard lifts.

Build Log Index Date: 18/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 90 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 4 I have now completed all the work related to making the yards and booms. The first two photos show the spritsail yard which has been temporarily pinned to the bowsprit. The various deadeyes to the bowsprit will be added later today. The next two photos show the various yards and booms temporarily pinned to the main, main topsail and main topgallant masts. The final photo show the various yards temporarily pinned to the fore, fore topsail and fore topgallant masts.

Build Log Index Date: 15/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 86 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 3 Work is still progressing slowly and steadily with making all the various yards. I have always found this aspect of the build process takes a great deal of time. All work is now complete on the spritsail yard, the fore & main topsail masts, the fore & main topgallant yards, Jibboom and the main &driver booms. I only have to add the PE parts, the various blocks / deadeyes and footropes to the bowsprit and fore & main lower yards which I hope will be completed in the next day or two. The following photo shows all the fore & main mast yards, prior to the final painting phase, and before completion of the lower yards. I decided to add the planking to the hexagonal section of the main and fore lower yards as I think this look much better. The next photo shows the completed spritsail, after painting. I might have to revisit one of the outer footropes and there are not as even as I would like (yellow arrows) The next photo shows the completed fore and main topsail yards. The final photo of this post shows fore and main topgallant yards.

Build Log Index Date: 12/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 82 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 2 Work is progressing slowly and steadily on making the various yards. It is taking me some time to seize all the various blocks required to be added to the yards. It also taking me time to add the footropes. The following is a description of how I added the footropes to the topgallant yards. This first step was to add the footropes to the mid section of the yard. After creating a loop in one end of the two lengths of thread they were positioned on the yard and the seizing was then adjusted to close the loop. Next a loop was formed in the free end of the first thread. My quad hands were used for this. The two photo’s below shows the before and after of this stage. After the loop has been added to the end of the yard the position of the seizing was adjusted. I have found the best position for the seizing is as shown below. The final task was to coat the footrope loops with diluted pva glue. The completed topgallant yards. The blocks have been added to the driver and main boom, as shown in the following photo. The final photo shows the work in progress of the spritsail yard. All the blocks have been seized and are ready to be added. The footropes have been added to one end and the other ends are ready to be added, once the footrope stirrups have been added.

Hello Bob Many thanks for the mention, your DOK looks fantastic. Glenn

Hello Bob Glad you are finding my posts are helpful. My methods might not be the best way to do things but they work well for me. Thanks Glenn

Build Log Index Date: 10/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 78 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 1 I am currently making all the yards, booms and bowsprit. There are several stages involved with this task. Stage 1 – Tapering There are several yards, booms and bowsprit to make. I started this process by cutting the various dowels to slightly longer than the required lengths. It was then a case of applying the required tapers to each dowel. I used my Proxxon mini lathe. Once the tapering was completed, they were trimmed to the correct length. A check was made that the various PE Stunsail Boom Irons and Stunsail Boom Straps were a good fit at the required locations. The Bowsprit and Jibboom, the end cap was test fitted. The Main and Driver Booms The Spritsail Yard Main and Fore Topgallant Yards Main and Fore Topsail Yards and Stunsails Main and Fore Yards and Stunsails Stage 2 – Adding Octagonal Mid Sections The central sections of the fore and main lower and topsail yards is octagonal. I used a needle file for this. Stage 3 – Adding the Cleats, Cradles and Bees The various wooden cleats, cradles and bees were added, secured with wood glue. Stage 4 – Preparing the PE Parts There are a number of PE parts required to added. After collecting the various PE parts they were chemically blackened as followed: a) Soak the PE parts in acetone for a few minutes b) Soak in soapy warm water for a few minutes c) Rinse and return to acetone solution for a few minutes d) Rinse and dry. e) Place in some burnishing fluid (AK Interactive Metal) f) Remove and dry. Stage 5 Add PE Parts I am currently in the process of completing this task. The photo below shows the Jibboom, Driver Boom, Main Boom and Spritsail Yard with the PE parts added. The spritsail yard footrope stirrups and two end eyebolts have not been glued in place but will when the footrope is to be added. Once all the PE parts have been added the final three stages are: Stage 6 – Painting Stage 7 – Add blocks Stage 8 – Add footropes

Build Log Index Date: 07/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 74 hours. Main and Fore Topsail Mast Manufacture There are some different aspects with regards to shaping the main and fore topsail masts. I thought I would document the process I used to complete this task. The base material for the two topsail masts are lengths of 5mm dowel. The top section of each mast needs to be squared to 2.7mm x 2.7mm. I started by flattening the first side using a craft knife and then I used a combination of a file and sanding stick until the width had been reduced to 3.85mm. I repeated this process on the opposite side until the width had been reduced to 2.7mm. I then repeated this process on the two other sides to create the required 2.7 x 2.7mm square and the upper platform was test fitted. The next section was to create the tapered section below the square section. I used a craft knife and then a combination of a file and sanding stick for this. I was not overly concerned about the untidy bottom section of this as this will be sorted when the next part of the dowel is tapered. After checking the upper and lower dimension of the taper section with a vernier gauge the lower end cap was checked to ensure it would pass over the tapered section. The next task was to taper the lower section of the topsail mast from 3mm at the top down to 4mm at the bottom. I used my Proxxon mini lathe for this task. I have attached a before and after photo. The bottom section of the dowel is not tapered as this will be squared off. The upper section of the tapered topsail mast. Next a photo showing the lower end cap can be passed down the topsail mast. The lower section of the topsail mast needs to be squared to a 4mm x 4mm dimension. I used a sanding stick for this task. A check was made that the lower square section would pass though the opening in the lower platform. The very top section of the mast was then rounded off so the upper end cap would fit. The hole for the FID was also added at this stage. Once that was done 2 coats of black paint was brushed on, after a coat of varnish had been applied. The two topsail masts were then test fitted. Next up will be to make the main and fore topgallant masts and the bowsprit.

Build Log Index Date: 04/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 72 hours. Main and Fore Mast Platform Work The two lower platforms have now been painted black. 2 coats of paint were applied after a coat of varnish had been brushed on. The foremast lower platform requires 6 x 3mm single blocks to be fitted, each secured via an eyelet. It takes me approx. 10 minutes to add a block to an eyebolt to a block, using the following method. a) A length of 0.5mm black thread is seized around the block using Semperfli fly tying Spyder thread. 6 lower and upper crossover knots were used for the seizing. b) Once the block was seized one of the free ends of the 0.5mm is removed. c) An eyebolt is then fed through the remaining free end of the 0.5mm black thread. d) With the eyebolt in the required orientation a second layer of seizing is added using Semperfli fly tying spyder thread. e) The excess 0.5mm black thread is then removed. I have added the block located on the main mast, located below the lower platform. It includes a 500mm length of 0.1mm natural thread. I have added the deadeye and block located on the fore mast, located below the lower platform. I have now started work on making the top and topgallant masts.

Hello Dan I am sure you will really enjoy building the DOK. It is a very decorative looking boat which really attracted me to her. Adding crows feet is nowhere as bad as you think it will be once you have worked out the sequence. Enjoy the break. Glenn (UK)

Build Log Index Date: 04/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hour. Total time spent on build: 70 hours. Main and Foremast Manufacture. I am now turning my attention to the main and foremast manufacture. The first task is to build the two lower platforms. Each platform comprises two parts which were glued together. I inserted the deadeye strops to ensure both parts were correctly aligned before adding a number of clamps. I also assembled the fore and main crosstrees and trestle trees. The upper section of the main and fore masts requires shaping. The first task is to create a 4mm x 4mm square section. I did this by using a craft knife to create a flat face. Using my vernier gauge and needle file I reduced the overall thickness of the 6mm dowel to 5mm over the required area. I then repeated the process on the opposite side so the overall thickness was 4mm. It was then a case of checking the mast would fit through the platform. The other two faces of the dowel were flatten using the same method, so I ended up with a 4mm x 4mm square section. Two flatten sides below the platform were also created for the mast cheeks. The final task was to round off the very top section for the mast cap. The two masts were then test fitted. A coat of varnish followed by two coats of black paint were then brushed on the upper section of the masts. I did note one of the iron banding strips needs a touch of glue. Once the iron banding had been added the final task was to add the boom saddle chock to the main mast and the belaying ring to the fore mast.

I think you'll find the DOK the better option. It is bigger than Speedy so there is more room to access the belaying points. Also it is not a copper bottomed model. There is much more detail to add to hull.

Well done Dan, you have built an excellent model.

Build Log Index Date: 01/09/2024 Time worked today: 3 hour. Total time spent on build: 68 hours. Cannon and Carronades Breach Rope Part 2 I have now completed the work with regards to the carronade’s breach rope rigging. They have now all be installed on the Adder’s deck. The next photo shows the first stage of including the breach rope on the carronades. With an eyebolt seized at one end the breach rope is added to the carronades After the position of the other eyebolt has been determined the carronade is held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, as shown below. With regards to the two cannons, I also decided to also the training tackle (inhaul tackle). The training tackle was used to haul the gun back inboard to the loading position. Two 2mm single blocks are required for this, one is attached to an eyebolt located at the rear of the gun carriage, and the one is hooked to an eyebolt mounted on the deck some distance behind the gun, as shown in the photo below. I am planning to add rope coils to complete the task. I have ordered some clear plastic counters so I can make a jig which will hopefully help me create the desired rope coils.

Build Log Index Date: 01/09/2024 Time worked today: 1 hour. Total time spent on build: 65 hours. Cannon and Carronades Breach Rope Part 1 I was unsure if I should add the breach ropes for the cannons and carronades as I thought it might be difficult to seize the breach rope to the eyebolts in situ. I did have an idea of a method which would made the process much easier to implement and as it seems to work I thought I would document the method in this post. I started with a length of thread which was stiffened by running it through a block of beeswax and then melting the wax with a hair dryer to help it flow evenly over the thread. An eyebolt was then seized to one end of the thread using Guttermann thread colour 612-1 (brass) for the seizing. This is a nice constrast and is similar to some of the seizing noted when visiting the HMS Trincomalee. The quad hands makes this an an easy. I used 5 simple cross over knots top and bottom for the seizing. The thread was then added to the first cannon. After drawing the shape of the bow on a piece of paper the required position of the other eyebolt on the thread could be determined, noting the approx. positions of the eyebolts were also marked on the drawing. The second eyebolt was then seized to the thread, again using the quad hands. The next photo shows the first cannon with breach rope added. The position of the eyebolts were checked again with the template. The process works well and does not take too much time. I am reasonably happy with the end result. It was then a case of repeating the process for the other cannon. The eyebolts and cannons have not be glued in place in the photo below. I will need to straighten the two cannons as the right-hand would, in particular, is not totally straight as can be noted in the photo below. I am using the following picture as my point of reference for the carronade breach rope rigging. It might be correct for the Adder carronades. Using the same process the seizing the two eyebolts have been added to the first carronade and they are now ready be checked with the template. The first carronade, complete with the breach rope, in position is shown in the final photo of this post. The method works well and takes around 10 minutes per carronade to implement so there is about 2 hours work left to complete the remaining carronade’s.

Build Log Index Date: 31/08/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 64 hours. Channels The various channels, after a coat of varnish was applied, were painted with two coats of black paint. The deadeye strops and chainplates were chemically blackened. The deadeye strops were then test fitted in the channels The channels were then, using wood glue, affixed to the hull. I have placed the eyebolts in the channels, but I have not glued them in as some will require thimbles and/or eyebolts seizing to them. It will be easier to do this using my quad hands before they are added to the channels. Next it was time to fit the deadeyes to the strops. I used my pliers to gently open the gap, as shown below. After the deadeye was inserted in the strop and aligned I used the pliers to close up the gap. The strops, complete with deadeyes were then placed in the channels. The holes in many of the supplied 3.5mm deadeyes are not very even so I had to pick and choose the ones to use. I do have plenty of 3mm pear deadeyes, but they were a bit to small for the strops. Next the chainplates were added. I chemically blackened the pins but I have not use them to secure the chainplates to the hull as I am waiting until after I have added the masts so I can align the chainplates with the flow of their respective shroud lines In preparation for the rigging phase I have studied the rigging plans and charted the various belaying points as shown below. I have also indicated where blocks /thimbles are to be added to eyebolts as I find this easier to do before the eyebolts are glued in place.

Many thanks Andrew. It is a great model to build.

Build Log Index Date: 29/08/2024 Time worked today: 7 hours. Total time spent on build: 60 hours. Hand Pumps, Drop Keel Winches, Belay Pin Racks and Forward Hatch Over the last three days I have completed all the deck work, except for assembled carronades and cannons as I am still debating whether to add the breach rope rigging. In the attached photos I have included carronades and cannons but they have not been glued to the deck. I have also add the eyebolts and mast rings to the deck. Starting with the hand pumps the various PE parts were chemically blackened. Using pins to help with the alignment the pumping mechanisms were assembled and then added to their pump bodies which was also painted black. The two completed assemblies were then added to the deck. The two drop keels were painted, as shown in the build manual. Next eyebolts, complete with the length of 0.5mm thread were added to each drop keels. The threads were run through a block of beeswax a couple of times. I then used a hairdryer to melt the beeswax. To add a bit more rigidity to thread I ran it through a very diluted wood glue solution and dried off with the hairdryer. The free end of each thread was then fed through the hole in their respective winch drums. With each drop keel winch assembly in place on the deck the drop keel position were set, and the threads were then wrapped around their drum and the excess thread trimmed. The two assemblies were then glued to the deck. The 6 off belay pin racks were painted black. The PE belay pins were chemically blackened and then added to the racks. The racks were then added to the inner bulwarks. I also added the shot garlands complete with shots. The stove chimney was chemically blackened, folded and added to the forward hatch. The two anchor ropes was then added to the forward hatch. The completed hatch assembly was then glued to the deck. The anchor ropes were fed through the nearest hawse holes to the stem post. Rudder, Tiller and channels next on the build agenda.

Hello Dan You have done a fantastic job your Adder looks great. Well done. Glenn