Glenn-UK

The Sherbourne hull and deck work is now completed, apart from a little bit of tiding up. The next stage would be to make the various masts and yards and then to rig the model. I bought this model to try out some different planking methods and to fill in time before the Harpy kit was released. Therefore I might just add dowel stubs for the main mast and bowsprit akin to a naval board style build so I can then make a start on the Harpy build. Photos of the Sherbourne Current Build Status The outer steps have been added. These are very fiddle to assembly. The ladders have also been installed. The ladder stanchions needs a bit of works to ensure they are correctly aligned and touched up with black paint. The tiller arm has been added to the rudder. Rope for the two anchors have been added. The swivel guns have been added. I did struggle to build these. One problem I had was being able to glue the locating pin to the PE base. I was using CA glue but the pins did not seem to adhere. Once the guns were added it was difficult to keep some guns in a set position. I will probably adjust and use some glue to hold the guns in place. The channels have been added. I will add the deadeyes and chainplates. Belaying pins have been added. The anchors have been assembled, noting the black card strips still have to be added. They are normally added to the ship once the ship has been rigged. I am not sure what I will do at the the moment.

Stage 19 – Deck Work Deck Work - Cannons Build Steps I decided to paint the carriages red, with the top cannon section black. This is shown in the first two photos. The assembly task was then completed without any issues as can be seen in the third photo. Time Taken 120 mins Deck Work - Ladders Build Steps The two ladders have also been assembled but they have not been fitted to the deck. This was a straightforward task. I glued one rung to the top position on one side of the ladder. Once the glue had taken a firm grip another run was added to the bottom position. Once the glue had taken a firm grip the other ladder side was added. Once the glue had time grip the other rungs were added and finally the outer patterns were added. Time Taken 10 mins Deck Work – Windlass, Bitts, Gratings & Companionway Build Steps The windlass winch drum was painted brown, and the two sides tops were painted black. The windlass assembly was then added to the deck. The PE parts were added to the pawl post and then the post was added to the deck. I tidied up the companionway and then glued it to the deck. I decided to paint grating surrounds black. In the following photos they are placed on the deck but are not glued in place. The same is true with the cannons. Time Taken 30 mins

Hi. No worries. This is just a filler project to experiment with some planking methods. I have previously built models such as the Indy, DOK and Sphinx.

Thanks, I have built plenty of these cannons in the past and I always test fit them during the assembly phase. The best advice is to assembly and then carefully slide the wedge with the cannon in situ to get the desired cannon angle. Wood glue will keep the wedge in place once aligned. I have bought some items which could, when fitted, replicate the wedge handle.

Stage 19 – Deck Work Hull Construction – Final Tasks Build Steps My original plan was to install all the gun port eyebolts once they had been chemically blackened. As I was going to blacken the eyebolts, I decided I might as well go ahead and blacken all the various PE parts required for the deck fitted items. The process I use to blacken the PE parts works well as is as follows: a) Soak the parts in acetone for a few minutes then place on paper towel to dry off b) Soak the parts in hot soapy water for a few minutes c) Rinse the parts in clean hot water and then place on paper towel to dry off d) Place the parts in a blackening solution. I use Metal Burnishing Fluid AK Interactive AK-159 e) Remove the blackened parts from the solution and dry on a paper towel. Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Final Tasks Build Steps 74 - 87 The following deck items were then assembled: a) Companionway, a bit of cleaning up required and I might paint the assembly b) Catheads c) Tiller Arm d) Hand Pumps, a bit of cleaning up required. The two belay pin racks were installed. My next tasks will be to: a) Assembly the 8 off cannons b) Fit all the gun port and deck eyebolts c) Assembly and install the two ladders d) Add the steps and PE stanchions to the hull e) Assembly the winch. f) Fit all the deck parts g) Add channels to hull Once all that has been done the deck work will be completed. I am in two minds weather to then progress with the mast and yard manufacture and rigging or to put the build on hold as I really want to start work on the Harpy. Time Taken 60 mins

Stage 18 – Completion of Hull Construction Phase Hull Construction – Final Tasks Build Steps 64-73 A lot of work has been completed and the hull build phase is now complete and I am ready to move on to adding the deck fittings. The completed tasks are: a) Cutting the gun port openings. After sanding the cut edges, I decided to add some gun port linings using some spare material. I painted the lining red. b) The bow keel was glued in place and painted black. c) The gunwale were painted black and then glued in place. d) The swivel gun posts and timberheads were glued in place on top og the gunwales. e) The stern side timers and top piece were added to the stern. f) The stern transom rail and stern counter rails were painted black and then added. g) The upper support rails were painted red and then glued in place. h) The cleats were added to the inner bulwarks. i) I test fitted eyebolts in all the holes on the inner bulwarks and deck. The eyebolts still need to be chemically blackened before they are glued in place. Time Taken 180 mins Current Build Status Photos I have added some photos showing the current status of the build.

Stage 15 – Laser Engraved Deck Installation Hull Construction – Laser Deck Installation Build Steps 53-55 The excess bulkhead tab material was removed, and the remnants were then sanded smooth. The laser engraved deck was then test fitted, after the laser char had been removed, from the outer edges. The deck was a good fit and I also checked the various deck items would locate in the various apertures. Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on to the deck base and the laser engraved deck was fitted. Plenty of clamps were then used to keep the deck in contact with the base while the glue cured. Time Taken 20 mins Stage 16 – Fitting Inner Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction – Inner Bulwark Patterns Installation Build Steps 56-61 There are two inner bulwarks per side and the front patterns were soaked in warm water for a few minutes and then clamped to the hull. Once the patterns had fully dried out they were test fitted and did require a bit of sanding on the leading edges before I was happy with the alignment. Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on and the inner bulwark patterns were carefully aligned and clamped. As can be seen in the attached photos I did dry fit some eyebolts to ensure the patterns were correctly aligned. Time Taken 30 mins Stage 17 – Fitting Spirketting Patterns Hull Construction – Spirketting Patterns Build Steps 62-63 There are two spirketting patterns per side. These patterns were test fitted, and they did require a bit of sanding on the leading edges before I was happy with the alignment. Plenty of wood glue was then brushed on the patterns and they were carefully aligned and clamped. As can be seen in the attached photos I did dry fit some eyebolts to ensure these patterns were correctly aligned. Next I sanded the top edges of the bulwarks flat and added a curved section on the left side of the front bulwarks for the bowsprit seat. Time Taken 30 mins Current Build Status Photos I have added some photos showing the current status of the build, noting I have dry fitted some of the deck items.

Your build is looking good, well done

Stage 14 – Wales and Depth Markings Hull Construction – Hull PE Parts Build Steps 51-52 After bending the two wale patterns for a good fit around the bow area they were painted black. I did apply a WOP coat before painting the wales. The wales were they glued and clamped in place. Next I added the horseshoe and depth markings to the hull. Cut down pins were inserted in all of the horseshoe holes. I have now completed the basic hull assembly phase of this build. Time Taken 120 mins As can be seen in the photo below I need to tidy up the lower stern panel paint job.

Stage 10 – Outer Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction – Fitting The Outer Bulwark Patterns Build Steps 47 - 48 After test fitting the previously shaped patterns the two outer bulwark patterns were added to the hull assembly. I brushed plenty of wood glue to the hull and the two patterns were then carefully positioned and clamped the hull, as can be seen in the following two photos. Time Taken 10 mins Stage 11 – Shaping the Main Wales Hull Construction – Shaping The Wales Build Steps 51 After wetting the bow end of the two wale patterns they were clamped to the hull and a hair dryer was used help the wale retain the bend around the bow. This is shown in the next two photos. The wale patterns will be removed and painted black before they are glued in place. I have also sanded the excess material shown by blue arrow in second photo from the stern area. Time Taken 10 mins Stage 12 – Fitting Lower Stern Counter Pattern Hull Construction – Outer Lower Stern Counter Pattern Build Steps 49 After wetting the outer lower stern counter pattern it was clamped to the hull so it could follow the curve. Before gluing the pattern in place, I did a test fit of the transom rail pattern. Everything looks good so the lower stern counter pattern was glued in place. Time Taken 20 mins Stage 13 – Horseshoe Show and Fishplates Hull Construction – Hull PE Parts Build Steps 52 A coating of photo etch primer paint was sprayed on the PE parts for the horseshoe, fishplates and depth markings. They were then painted copper. As can be seen in the the next two photo the two horseshoe patterns have been test fitted and the two fishplate patterns have been glued in place. Time Taken 10 mins

Thanks Bob

Stage 9 – Pianting The Hull Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 1 Build Steps 44-46 Painting the hull white takes time to get a nice even finish. After brushing diluted wood filler in the visible gaps / depressions in the completed second planking the hull is sanded until it feels smooth to touch. A thin coat of white paint was then applied to the hull as this really shows up the defects as can be seen in the following four photos. Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 2 Build Steps 44-46 A liberal amount of slightly diluted wood filler to the hull, as can be seen in the next two photos. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 3 Build Steps 44-46 Once the wood filler has dried the hull is once again sanded smooth. As can be seen in the next three photos the hull is looking smoother, but more work is still required. Time Taken 20 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 4 Build Steps 44-46 More diluted wood filler is then applied to the areas which need more attention and then the hull is once again sanded smooth and this process is repeated until I was happy the end result, as shown in the next three photos. Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 5 Build Steps 44-46 The rudder was also assembled and painted and then test fitted, as shown in the next photo. It will be added to the hull later in the build process. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 6 Build Steps 44-46 The outer bulwark patterns were then test fitted against the painted hull and everything look good. Time Taken 5 mins

Thanks, my Harpy kit is in the shipyard and I am itching to get started but I will continue on with the Sherbourne which I am using to try out some different ideas.

Stage 8 – Second Planking Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Appling a lateral bend Build Steps 33 I have reverted to using Chuck’s lateral bending method as it is yielding much better results than the method used for the first couple of upper planks. After wetting the plank, I used clamps to apply a lateral bend. I then used a hairdryer to dry the plank so it hold’s its shape once the clamps are removed. Please refer to the first two photos below in respect to the above In the third photo below a laterally bent plank is being test fitted and this plank looks OK. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the bending process to get the required lateral bend. Time Taken 5 mins Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Adding a plank Build Steps 33 Before fitting the plank, The area where the ca glue needs to be added is marked. This is shown in the first photo below. The plank is dampened, as this helps the adhesion with ca glue. Ca glue is then added to the hull along the marked area. Starting at the bow the plank is pushed into the rabbet and then is pressed down working back toward the stern, ensuring any excess ca glue is wiped away. The final three photos show the end result after 7 upper planks have been fitted to both sides. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Starboard Side Build Steps 33 A total of 15 off full planks were required for the second planking on the starboard side. I am really pleased with the end result. Although more work is required to improve my technique, this is without my best work with regards to adding the second planking. Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Port Side Build Steps 33 I have added 11 planks to the port side, so there are 4 more planks to fit to complete this task. As can be seen on the second photo the gap to fill, at the midship section, requires exactly 4 planks. Time Taken 60 mins

Looking good, as always.

Stage 7 – Fitting Outer Prow, Keel and Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction –Prow nd Keel Outer Patterns Build Steps 33-36 The two prow outer patterns were glued in place, using the locking keys to help with the correct alignment. I also used a pin to check the various holes in these patterns were aligned with each other. Once that was done, I repeated the process for the two outer keel patterns. I used plenty of clamps to hold these patterns in place whilst the glue cured. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Outer Bulwark Patterns Build Steps 37-38 I soaked the two outer bulwark patterns in warm water for a few minutes and then clamped them to the hull and left them overnight to fully dry out and to retain the required bend. Time Taken 20 mins Stage 7 – Start Of Second Planking Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking Build Steps 33 With the two outer bulwark patterns still clamped, but not glued to the hull, I started the second planking. I started with the upper most plank for both sides. I wetted each plank so I could manipulate the required bend at the bow and stern using my hands. Once I was happy with the dry fit I applied some ca glue to the hull and then fitted the slightly wetted planks. The outer bulwark patterns were then removed from the hull. I then added two further upper level planks per side. Next I added the garboard and it’s adjacent plank to both sides. It took a bit more time to fit these planks as I had to ensure I had the correct shaping to these planks when fitted to the bow. Time Taken 60 mins

Stage 6 – Sanding First Planking Part 1 – Checking Rabbet Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Left-hand side Build Steps 33 Before I started the hull sanding process, I thought it would be beneficial to dry fit the outer prow and keel patterns. In the first two photos I have indicated where the rabbet needs to be opened up (yellow arrow) and where some filler will be required (blue arrow). Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Right-hand side Build Steps 33 As can be seen in the next photo the outer bulwark pattern does fit in the rabbet. However, there is work required to open (yellow arrow) and fill (blue arrow) some of the rabbet along the prow and keel, where the second planking will terminate as shown in the second photo (yellow arrow). Time Taken 5 mins Hull Construction – Modified Rabbets left and right Build Steps 33 In the following three photos the rectification work has been completed and I am now happy that the second planking will locate in the rabbet. In the final photo you can see a test plank has been successfully slotted in the keel rabbet. I have also started to work out the curved shape. As you will note my first shaping still requires more work. I find it is easier to test fit the garboard plank bow shaping on a test piece before the outer pattern have been glued in place. Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Hull Sanding Build Steps 33 I have also completed sanding the hull smooth. I smothered the hull with wood filler and once it had dried I used my mouse sanding and sandpaper to remove most of the wood filler, the remaining filler was left in the depressions. I also sanded the dead area (stern) to ensure the second planking, when fitted, will sit flues with the keel and stern post. Time Taken 30 mins Sorry I forget to take some photos of the sanded hull but I try to remember to add some in my next post.

Hello Rob Many thanks for the mention. I still have much to learn and improve with regards to the model ship building and the Sherbourne was really helped me improve my planking skills. You are doing a fantastic job. Glenn

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 4 – Task Completed Hull Construction –First Planking Completed Build Steps 31-32 Today I added the final two planks per side followed by the steelers which means I have now completed the first planking. I have also trimmed the excess planks material around the stern area and the hull is now ready to be sanded smooth. I will use my mouse sander initially before reverting to a sanding block, sandpaper and sanding sticks. The mouse sander will be a great help when reducing the plank depth around the stern area so the second planking, when fitted, will sit flush with the keel and stern post. This is the best first planking I have managed in all of my boat builds, but there is still a lot of room for improvement. Time Taken 120 mins

It is the Amati pin pusher which I bought from Cornwall Model Boats.

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 3 Hull Construction –First Planking Method Build Steps 31-32 I have continued with the first planking working down toward the keel. It takes me approx. 20 minutes to fit each plank. This can be split down to 5 minutes to test fit, taper and to add a bevel to the top edge of the plank. It then takes me 5 minutes to bend the plank using steam from a boiling kettle. The steam process sometimes requires 3 or 4 kettle boils to get the required bend (bow and stern). It then takes me around 10 minutes to glue and pin the plank to the hull and to then clean away any excess wood glue. Overall I am pleased with this new method of fitting the planks and although the planking is not perfect I am not suffering, as much, with a clinkered effect. One of the other positives is that I bought a new pin pusher which is so much easier to use than my other two pin pushers. The most beneficial aspect of the steam bending process, in my opinion, is the ability to add twists to some of the planks which ensures the planks sit flat across the bulkheads. You may also note a red tinge on one of the attached photos, as I did manage to cut my finger when trimming a plank and did not realise until I noticed the blood on the hull. In the final photo of this photo you will note that I require exactly two planks to complete the planking along with some stern stealers. Time Taken 210 mins

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 2 (Garboard Plank) Hull Construction –First Planking Method – Adding Garboard Plank Build Steps 31-32 I have now fitted the garboard plank and its adjacent plank on both sides. I used the same method, as per my first three planks, when fitting these planks. Time Taken 60 mins Photo 1 shows the first step where the centre bulkhead is aligned with the plank (Blue arrow). The bow shaping has also been started but still needs a little bit of sanding. The yellow arrow indicates where a slight twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle. Photo 2 shows the stern area and the yellow arrow indicates where a twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle. Photos 3 & 4 were taken after I had applied the twists and I am test fitting the bow and stern sections before gluing the plank in place. Photos 5 to 8 shows the current garboard plank build status and were taken after the second plank had been added. 5 planks have now been fitted per side which means another 7 planks per side are required to complete the 1st planking task. Adding the twists to planks has been an eye opener for me and has certainly made the planking task easier.

Hello Joachim There are outer patterns to be added to the keel and prow which forms the rabbet. Locking keys, which are pushed in the oblong slots, are used to align these patterns. Thanks Glenn

Stage 5 First Planking Part 1 Hull Construction –First Planking Method – First Three Planks Build Steps 31-32 I have now started the first planking task. The first two photos shows the first plank in place. When fitting the planks I start by positioning and marking the plank against one of the central bulkheads as a reference point. This is shown in the third photo below. I then mark the point at which the plank starts to overlap around the bow area. I also mark the point where a slight twist in the plank will help with the fit around the stern. I then draw the required bow taper so the plank width is approx 3mm wide when the plank meets the prow. The tapered plank is then test fitted and, when necessary the taper is tweaked for a better fit. I also add a chamfer to the top edge of the plank. Next using steam from a boiling kettle the bend is applied to the bow end and the twist to the stern end of the plank. Once I am happy with the shaping, I check the position of the plank with the pencil marking on the central bulkhead and adjust the markings as necessary so the plank is a good fit with the prow. Once that is done, I applied glue to all the bulkheads and the plank is positioned to the central bulkhead, using the pencil alignment. The pins are then added, started from the centre and moving toward the stern and bow one pin at a time. Once the planks has been pinned any excess wood glue wiped away. The final two photos shows the Sherbourne after three planks per side have been added. In total there will be approx. 12 planks per side required at the widest point with some stealers required at the stern. Parts Time Taken 120 minutes

Stage 3 Fitting the Outer Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction – Installing Bulwark Patterns Build Steps 23-30 The outer bulwark patterns were test fitted but I felt there was not enough give to bend these parts around the bow. After the bow ends were soaked in warm water for a few minutes it was then possible to test fit the parts and to clamp them in place to allow the patterns to fully dry out. As can be seen in the following photos I did make sure the patterns were aligned with the laser etched deck and bulkhead guidelines. I will do another couple of test fits to make sure I am totally happy with the fit. Before gluing these pattern in place I will also experiment with a new (for me) planking method. Parts 30L, 30R Time Taken 10 mins Stage 4 First Planking Testing Method Bow Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow Build Steps 31-32 One of the reasons I bought this kit was to try out a new method of planking which I had seen on Jason’s “Modelkit Stuff” YouTube channel. I am using some spare planking material for this task. With the plank held in place I added a pencil mark on the plank where it starts to overlap the bulwark, as shown in the first photo. I decided that I would trim the plank down to half its full width. After drawing a line I placed the plank in my strip clamp as shown in the second photo below. The excess material was then removed using my mini place and then a sanding stick. Once I had worked out the bending requirements the plank was held in pliers over a boiling kettle so the bend could be formed, as shown in the 3rd photo below. As can be seen in the forth photo I had made a slight error of judgement when tapering to half width as there is a small gap between the plank and the bulwark. As a minor adjustment the plank is an almost perfect fit as shown in the fifth photo. It is good to be able to practice this method with spare material. As the test plank was sitting slightly proud I added to chamfer to the top edge which solved the problem. Parts 5 mins Time Taken Stage 5 First Planking Testing Method Stern Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow Build Steps 31-32 The stern area requires a slightly different approach in order for the plank to sit flat on the last few bulkheads. A twist in the plank is required. After marking the point where the twist should occur I used the same steam method to create the required twist. The twisted plank is shown in the first photo below. The second photo shows the test fit and the plank does now sit flush on all the bulkheads without any undue force or stress. The more observant will also note that the chamfered top edge is now on the bottom as I did apply the twist the wrong way in my first test piece. Good job I am only practicing with spare material, although I could redo the twist on this plank with more steam!! Parts Time Taken