rybakov

Hello,
today I painted the hull. There are only some small things to repair the next days, where the paint run under the masking tape. But first the paint must entirely dry. 
 

 
 

Morning!
 
I was hoping to have more to show you, but finishing off the hull underside to get a nice even and homogenous surface really is a labour of love. Nonetheless, here's my work so far. The main wales are now fitted to the model, after a 30 minute soak in hot water for the forward half. Positioning this is very easy as it simply follows the line of the lower outside pattern parts that were fitted earlier, and covering the first two laters of later cut planks. The wales are pinned in position whilst they dry. This is left overnight as pear can expand quite a lot when soaked.

Once dry, the wales are glued with PVA and pinned in place. 

 
 
After fitting the main wales, a narrower and thinner wale is added to their upper edges. This is supplied in halves.


 
 
The inner stern upper counter and stern fascia are now fitted. Both these have inner and outer panels. I bevel the edges of these slightly as they butt up against each other. Some minor measurement is done to make sure the parts are central.


 
 
Now it's the turn off the quarter galleries to be fitted. The core of these are some MDF frame parts.

 
 
These are now fitted. Before gluing, they are trimmed at the rear end to the size of my particular build, and bevelled to match the angle of the stern fascia. The edges are bevelled to accept the exterior parts. This will be explained in the manual, and it's dead easy. All of these parts are supplied with extra material so there's no need to worry about things not fitting. Note also the small ply part (51) between the frames. This is there to get the angles of the frames to the hull, correct.

 
 
 
Now the gallery frames are fitted, the model is masked up so I can spray the wales and the inside of the upper quarter gallery areas. I used Plastikote aerosol to do this as the coverage is excellent and is ok straight onto timber.


 
 
The stern upper counter and fascia outer panels are now glued onto the hull. Note how the outer fascia now creates rebates for the window glazing parts.




 
 
The quarter gallery window areas are constructed in the same way as the stern, with an inner part fitted first. Again, these parts have a little extra on the front and rear to cater to individual builds, and there will be little to nothing needed to be trimmed along the upper/lower edges. A thick pear 'roof' is then bevelled to the engraved line and these are fitted to the top of the quarter galleries.




 
 
 
The gallery berthing panels are now added below this.

 
 
 
 
MDF parts are now used to construct the lowest areas of the quarter galleries. These are assembled to each other on the model (but not glued to the model just yet), then set aside to dry. They are then shaped to match the gallery, checking progress by test fitting to the hull. Once shaped, some pint is scraped from the wales and the sections are glued into place.


 
 
 
 
Out comes the waterline tool again. Checking this against the hull profile so both the prow and stern are at the same height, the line is added and the model masked again. More sanding, filling is then done. This took me about 4 days to get into a position where I was happy enough to paint.


 
 
 
Plastikote White paint is now added. This is done in thin layers and more rubbing back and filling will need to be done to get a smooth, even surface. It is tedious, but the results pay off.

 
 
 
The last task I did was to take the bow rail patterns and soak these before clamping into position on the hull so they can dry in shape. 



 
 
 
With these taken off, the hull can now be selectively varnished in places before applying the red, blue and black exterior panels. You'll see that in my next update.
 

Good morning.

Hi 🙂 Bread oven, part one brick making with clay, and baked, the bricks are bricked up with cement:  
 

Hello,
today I show a sister block that has already been integrated into the topmast shrouds.

 

 

Here is a historical example of a sister block shown on the model of the brig l'Esperance from 1810 and a drawing from around the middle of the 19th century.

 

Good morning and thank you all, with these photos I finish with the decorations, personally it was a nice challenge, also because it was the first time I faced the decorations.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un saluto.

Hello and thank you all, I use a dentist's handpiece with very small burs.
More photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Unsaluto.

Today a call was made from the boat club where we have the reconstruction. "Your boat is sitting on the bottom!" 😟
 
I went out after lunch, and there she was:

This is not the first time this happened. In the spring, before the wood has swollen the cracks shut, there is always leakage. Today the pumps had both stopped; one was clogged with sawdust from the ship builders, and one had fallen so that the switch deactivated it. A quick fix and when the pumps stared she started to rise from the bottom.
 
In the smaller shipyard I have continued with preparing the rigging.
 
In the find there are four pairs of holes below the stringer on the upmost plank. These has been interpreted as fastening for the shrouds, and is the basis on which the rig has been reconstructed. The rig reconstruction was made by experts from the viking ship museum in Roskilde Denmark, and the reconstruction report does not have so much details about sources etc. for it. Through each pair of holes there is a loop of rope.

From this loop the shrouds are attached either using an L-shaped "shroud needle" (direct translation of the Swedish word) or a pin, see below.

The foremost and aft shroud line goes through blocks so that it is easier to adjust the tension. This is the aspect of the rig reconstruction that I would like to have had the sources and motivations for. In practice, when the tension needs to be adjusted, you will change all four lines, not just the fore and aft one.

I have started with the "shroud needles" and some blocks.
 

 

Yesterday we went out to the reconstruction to put her into the water after the winter storage on land. This is what we where met by:

Last year we discovered some rotten planks in such a bad shape that we could not dare to sail at all. We had contracted these ship builders to make the basic renovation needed to keep her afloat. Unfortunately they had been delayed at another job, and where not finished at the scheduled day. A few rushed hours later we managed to get her into water:

20210501_124826.mp4  
 

found on net.

Hello,
today I show the sister blocks that have been made in the meantime.
Now also properly integrated, not as incorrectly shown in the last post.

Good morning and thank you all, I continue with more photos of the decorations.
The wood used for all the sculptures is boxwood.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un saluto.

forgot about the last one

two small decorations:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on.
 
Starting with the gun port lids.
 

The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly
 

The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced
 

The final result with all three planks in place
 

When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below.
 

Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge
 
Pinned cleats to the bulwarks.

 
Transom windows and sills 

 

 
Mike

Good morning and thank you all, there are many things I don't know how to do Hoving, I always try to do the best I can.
More photos of the decorations.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Thank you, John!
 
Short update; two fitted and two to go:

This has been a little bit of a guessing game.  I had to add significantly more new plastic to the bases of the two middle figures (Spring and Summer) because of the more pronounced arching back posture that the extra overhang of the balcony necessitated; I literally had to stretch these figures to their max.
 
Some careful filing of the base angles aligned the figures with the inboard pitch of the window pilasters.  After establishing the base angle/joint, it was necessary to add back some plastic to the top mounting surfaces, in order to make a good plastic to plastic bond.  I promise that painting of these figures will be interesting, and I will be taking cues from this portrait:

As is intrinsic to this kind of reverse-engineering kit-bash, it is impossible to truly capture the original; the figures obscure more of the windows than I would like, but this is an acceptable compromise.

 
I always appreciate your support, your likes, kind compliments, and even your criticisms.  Enjoy the weekend!

Good morning and thanks to all, more photos of the stern decorations.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Since Tiziano Mainardi and Gérard Delacroix had pointed out to me an error in the lines of the frames of the painted pictures, I have fixed them; I hope they are now correct.
 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Hello and many thanks for your likes,
Noel, the crew is working in the hold and orlop deck. Thats why you did't saw them the last time 😉
 
But I was also busy today, because it rained outside. The last two fenders are build in. The painter has a lot of work the next days, painting the hull, before I could start painting the frieze.
 

 

Rick,
 
I suggest you don't get too anal about the "correct" locations for tying off the rigging. There is a good chance that some things changed during the life of the ship.
 
I modeled a mid 20th century light cruiser that was in service for several decades and there were dozens of changes over the years. Some were simple, like the bosun wanting another cleat or bitt to tie to, or new antennas to improve reception. Others were large like adding new compartments on deck of adding new equipment. But in every case the changes were made to improve the performance of the ship. I doubt that this idea was new to the 20th century!
 
I would not be surprised to learn that 15th through 19th century ships had occasional changes to the rigging to make it "better" in the eyes of the current Captains. There are some recorded accounts where rigging and sails were changed because a "better" way was observed on another ship. Unless you have an accurate period rigging plan for a ship for the year you are modelling you will never know exactly how it was rigged.
 
There are a few simple rules of thumb for rigging that comes from some period books on rigging ships.
 
1. Standing rigging like stays form triangles with the mast and deck in order to support the masts. Forward stays fasten on or near the ship's center line on deck or to the bowsprit. After stays attach to the bulwarks or channels outboard the bulwarks.
 
2. Running rigging from the lower spars and sails leads to the forward most points on pin rails, fife rails and belaying points on deck, and the rigging from the highest points leads to the aft most belaying points. Rigging from near the center of yards or the mast leads down to points near the base of the mast (fife rails, ring bolts on deck, etc.) and rigging from the yard arms and outboard parts of sails leads down to points along bulwarks, pin rails or ring bolts on the deck near the bulwarks. Mast tackles usually lead outboard to channels or pin rails.
 
3. Lines should not cross or rub together. Each must lead free and clear down to the belaying point.
 
Since this is how ships have been rigged for centuries, if you follow these guides you will probability end up rigging the model almost exactly like the real thing.

Hi 🙂

Thank you all!
Another forestay knob:

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the processing of the forestay pommel I built this tool:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I wanted to try that beautiful ligature seen on Hermione: