rybakov

Construction of the bread oven and the entrance of the anchor cables in the hold.
 
On the drawing , we see the shape of the bricks. The assembly is made on a wood form.  All the holes are filled with wood putty made of saw dust and glue.
2 actions are done so that the glue does nit stick to the form: adding oil and car wax. Finally, the painting.
 
Here is how I think "the cage" could be done. Below the oven, we need 2 things so that the support of the oven does not burn. Just under the oven, there could be thin plates and or a brick thickness. In the bottom half of that support, it would be filled with sand to dissipate the heat.

Again a 2 months period has passed, you all might be thinking I stopped building. Now indeed I stopped building temporarily as another project came by but that has been finished so I continued the build.
 
 
I finished the gunports on the Verdek and also the gunport lids.
The inner planking up to the halfdek was also done.

 

 




 
After that I started working on the bow section before going farther up. I decided the concentrate my build a little more (I have been building crosswise) I will build basically from down to up.
 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
Status per today.

Good morning and thank you all for the like, more photos.

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thank you all, more photos of progress.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Hi everyone, thank you Gary and thank you all for the support you always give me, it is very important for me to know that my work is appreciated by all of you.
More photos.
 
Ciao a tutti, grazie Gary e grazie a tutti per il sostegno che mi date sempre, per me conta moltissimo sapere che il mio lavoro è apprezzato da tutti voi.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Hello and thank you all for the like, more photos.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Thank you for the nice comments and likes!
 
Final spurt:
 
Marines approx 1770 onwards
 

 

 
Marines approx 1800 onwards
 
 
 

 
Royal Navy Offizier approx 1910 with his Agfa-box-camera ...
 

 

 

 
... and two sailors.
 
 
 
 

small advance:

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the meantime, not much has happened to the model.
But in this autumnal weather you spend more time inside again.
The futtock shrouds for the mizzen mast have already been prepared. The catharpins are now fixed.
The rear futtock shrouds have been fixed provisionally for the binding.

 

Good morning and thank you all for the like.
More photos.

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

New look:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good morning.

thank you for enjoying the painting, looking back at it, I would say that this model,  about at 1/36 is standing almost in a dangerous position and  it is difficult to know if they consider the model ship as a toy or something else?
 
2 more parts completed, the railings
 
on the first photo, we can see where the steps are inserted and where the part holding the steps re coming from, This way it is very easy to do as many parallel staircase steps as you want.

Thanks, EJ!
 
So, here are a few pics of the bow area with everything re-touched and distressed, the beakhead doors in-place, etc:




I realized that I shouldn’t glue-in the beakhead bulkhead until I have painted the lower transom because I will need to remove the model from its working base and flip it over, in order to access the underside of the stern counter.
 
Just for fun, here’s what the built-up amortisement looks like in place:

 
I also realized that I can’t paint the lower transom until I’ve made the lower section of the quarter galleries.
 
I’ve held off on doing this for a long time, while I tried to figure out what exactly my approach would be.
 
The greatest difficulty is in trying to ascertain what the volume and shape of the sub-structures should be.
 
Ultimately, I decided that I would carve these sub-structures from apple solids, and use the pieces above to inform the shape of those below.
 
For additional reference, I looked back on Drazen Caric’s excellent tutorial for the making of his QGs on the Provincien:
The logical starting point of this process seemed to me to be the widest section of the QG - the middle-deck section, which is the functional level of the officer’s toilet.
 
I know that the projection from the ship sides should be about four scale feet, or a 1/2”.  As the above amortisement hints at, I wanted there to be a slight rounding of this level, at the middle, before tapering in towards the hull, at the foremost end.
 
The pictures below are a pretty clear evolution of this shaping process:







One thing worth mentioning, here, is that the projection of the false stern balcony is a bit exaggerated.  This owes to the fact that I did not, initially, realize that there needs to be a shelf of sufficient depth to support the four seasons figures.  Consequently, I had to graft-on an extension piece:

Ideally, the end-shape of the counter should match the moulded shape of the sides.  That won’t be the case with this build, but it does not appear too distracting on the model.  Lesson learned!

Now that I had established this shape, I could trace its bottom onto the top of the piece below it:












Please bear in mind that positioning on this scrap hull is only approximate, as the hull was cut down, in order to make my hull longer.
 
At this stage, I can begin applying all of the styrene pilasters, mouldings and ornaments that decorate these sub-structures.
 
Once, they are fully sheathed in their paneling, I can use them to determine the outside dimension and overhang of the transitional mouldings between sections.
 
I am wondering whether I should sand and seal the wood with something before using CA glue to attach the surface ornament.  Or, would I be better off sanding, applying surface ornament and then sealing with poly, or something else?  I’m just concerned about CA adhesion, here.  Also, considering that these wooden surfaces will be painted, how fine a grit do I need to sand to.  Is 220 sufficient?  The wood grain is very fine.  As always, any advice is welcome.
 
Thanks for taking the time to visit!  More to come...
 

Buongiorno e grazie a tutti per i mi piace, altre foto.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

I went a bit further in the work

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

About lifting the beams and withdrawing the pillars Dafi's Victory log might be worth a look at page 40 .
 
all the best
Zeh
 

Good morning and thank you all, some photos of the bell support.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thanks to all your likes, more photos .
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thank you all for the like, more photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Hi Gaetan, thanks so much for the photos. That really brings a drawing to life, showing how common this device must have been in a lot of different locations and for different tasks.
 
I just keep drawing away, deciding to get more things worked out on paper before cutting more wood. The cross sections are exceedingly helpful for refining a lot of the details. I should have done this years ago.... Now I have a clear record, in one place, of the sizes of things as I work my way upwards.
 
By the way, in the specifications for the Marlborough, dated 1763, there is an interesting description of the beams and clamps that I remember Gary (garyshipwright) pointing out several years ago--I just didn't understand it at the time, but now I think I do. Gary, you so far ahead of me in so many ways!
 
Taking the gun deck, for example, the lodging knees are set 1 1/2" below the top surface of the beams, to ensure more air circulation between the knee and the deck above, to avoid rot. The upper surface of the clamps touch the lower surface of the knees, and are themselves 1' 5" deep. But this means that the beams, moulded 1'-4", would cut excessively into the clamp, causing a structural weakness. So the beams are bearded up at the extreme ends (12" from the end), to cut into the top of the clamp by only 1".
 
I did not understand the logic of this years ago, but now I do. The clamp is providing great longitudinal structure, and cutting large notches into its top surface would reduce the effective structure down to whatever was left below the notches. This needs to be minimized. At the same time, the structural capacity of the beams is mostly determined at the center of its span. Notches at the extreme ends do little to compromise the structure; although, it does provide a place for splits to start. The pillars at the centers would provide a lot of additional support at the center, reducing the load that has to be carried at the end over the clamp. An interesting balance of avoiding rot, while maximizing structure. They were clever guys, those shipwrights!
 
I already installed my clamps several years ago, and placed them without this refined detail, so they are lower by a few inches. I am not inclined to move them at this point. So my drawings will reflect the true detail, but the actual model will be simplified. Don't tell anyone!
 
Mark
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Hello,
and many thanks for your comments and likes.
 
Mark, I think that it's the perspective. These pumps are huge, but not so much. If you look at the drawing, I think it fits. The painter is 1,70m and the carpenter 1.80m (6 feet) high. The axle is at 3f 10in. 
 

 
 
 

 

I saw of similar photo: a wooden jack screw for repair of cart and wagon wheels. (Ethnographic Museum of Elhovo, Bulgaria)
Unfortunately, the date is not written.
 
 It is clear that both french and english used something to remove pillars when needed to use the capstan. How often did they have to remove the pillars? When they needed to use the capstans as winches for anchors, sails etc.. Probably that the pillars were in place more than 90% of the time.
 
How much did they have to lift the deck beams? A fraction of inch, no problem, few inches to clear both tenons at each end of the pillar; I would be very much afraid to break many parts because  a lot of parts will follow the deck beam. A recess in the deck beam and in the floor would save a lot of "height" and would also maintain the pillars in place. I do not know how they lifted the deck beam but it had to be fast and easy,  as a simple lever by example, few feet long, something like may be a capstan arm.
 
An easy question in 1780. A difficult  answer in 2020.

About lifting the beams and withdrawing the pillars Dafi's Victory log might be worth a look at page 40 .
 
all the best
Zeh
 

About lifting the beams and withdrawing the pillars Dafi's Victory log might be worth a look at page 40 .
 
all the best
Zeh