rybakov

Hi Jud
 
When you start heaving the anchor you're trying to get an object weighing about 1500 tons moving.
That's the moment the chain or cable is under the greatest stress, once you get the ship moving it's easy.
When the anchor is up and down you have to contend only with someting like 3 tons, unless the anchor is fouled 
on the bottom, that bend really acts as a brake, but is not under enough stress to damage the cable.
As an aside, on ships with weak anchor winches or capstans we would go dead slow ahead as we started heaving to
overcome the inertia of the ship then stop  and let the capstan carry on.
 
The cat can only be used once the anchor is out of the water so that the tackle can be hooked to the anchor and the main purpose 
is to move the anchor from the hawseholes (where it would eventually end) to the side of the ship to then be stowed.
 
 
All the best
Zeh

There was no way to reposition the cable to the cat, and (particularly on larger vessels), the messenger was below deck, not on the upper deck with the cat. As Zeh pointed out, the cathead was for final stage as the anchor cleared the water for stowage.

Hi Jud
 
When you start heaving the anchor you're trying to get an object weighing about 1500 tons moving.
That's the moment the chain or cable is under the greatest stress, once you get the ship moving it's easy.
When the anchor is up and down you have to contend only with someting like 3 tons, unless the anchor is fouled 
on the bottom, that bend really acts as a brake, but is not under enough stress to damage the cable.
As an aside, on ships with weak anchor winches or capstans we would go dead slow ahead as we started heaving to
overcome the inertia of the ship then stop  and let the capstan carry on.
 
The cat can only be used once the anchor is out of the water so that the tackle can be hooked to the anchor and the main purpose 
is to move the anchor from the hawseholes (where it would eventually end) to the side of the ship to then be stowed.
 
 
All the best
Zeh

Hi Jud
 
When you start heaving the anchor you're trying to get an object weighing about 1500 tons moving.
That's the moment the chain or cable is under the greatest stress, once you get the ship moving it's easy.
When the anchor is up and down you have to contend only with someting like 3 tons, unless the anchor is fouled 
on the bottom, that bend really acts as a brake, but is not under enough stress to damage the cable.
As an aside, on ships with weak anchor winches or capstans we would go dead slow ahead as we started heaving to
overcome the inertia of the ship then stop  and let the capstan carry on.
 
The cat can only be used once the anchor is out of the water so that the tackle can be hooked to the anchor and the main purpose 
is to move the anchor from the hawseholes (where it would eventually end) to the side of the ship to then be stowed.
 
 
All the best
Zeh

Hi Jud
 
When you start heaving the anchor you're trying to get an object weighing about 1500 tons moving.
That's the moment the chain or cable is under the greatest stress, once you get the ship moving it's easy.
When the anchor is up and down you have to contend only with someting like 3 tons, unless the anchor is fouled 
on the bottom, that bend really acts as a brake, but is not under enough stress to damage the cable.
As an aside, on ships with weak anchor winches or capstans we would go dead slow ahead as we started heaving to
overcome the inertia of the ship then stop  and let the capstan carry on.
 
The cat can only be used once the anchor is out of the water so that the tackle can be hooked to the anchor and the main purpose 
is to move the anchor from the hawseholes (where it would eventually end) to the side of the ship to then be stowed.
 
 
All the best
Zeh

Oh those marvels of modern technology. Sitting in the car towards a job in Switzerland and being able to update some of the late progress***.
  Not much was possible, just small bits late night, so one had to find the right subject - I found one, not too far off :-)   I love the small etch skylight, but as all etch it misses a bit of depth. Long time I wanted to try something.   First glued some 0,25 mm sheet onto the back of the roof using CA  …     … cleaned the edges, drilled the holes and opened the windows with a file using the brass as template …     … and then separated the parts very caaaaaaaaarefully using a scalpel.     Then cleaned the back of the roof and glued the clear sheet onto it by just applying CA on the edges to minimise fumes and mess …     … and glued the sheet back in place thus resulting into a nice three level sandwich brass-clear sheet-normal sheet with a nice edge with the right thickness :-)     The sides went alike, first clear, then normal, this time using Evergreen for the glazing bars fixed with UHU-Plast. Like this, the „glass“ is nicely packed in the middle.     The lower part was left longer on purpose as this gives a nice anchorage on the deck.     Still added the deck beams …     … and it already looked rather cute …     … even reflecting in the light.     Even though I used clear sheet, how was the original glazed? Using mica for the advantage of not breaking? Or old fashioned very disturbed glas?   Cheers, Daniel       PS: ***Do not worry, my colleague is driving ;-)

What a sad story ...
  ... after the big modelers meeting in Augsburg near Munich in March my sweet black´n´yellow beaty even did not make it back up to the tinkering table and had to stay in the staircase ...   ... the  poor one, all alone ...   ...   ... :-(   Until today she went underneath the knife again - HUUUUURRRRRAYYYY!   First relocating the skylight of the poop. Being a little to much upfront ...     ... bravely using the knife ...     ... and resettling the cut out.     And then something I always wanted to try out ...     ... the new planking in between the binding strakes still parallel because of the 2 middle poop deck partners ...     ... but then getting curved towards the outer hull. After gluing the planks cutting with a plexi ruler in several turns into shape ...     ... and so I got a nice deck with curved planks and that even in 1:100, so no more excuses for the bigger scales ;-)   XXXDAn

Hi Daniel
 
Here goes a detail, I think you can magnify it quite a lot before losing resolution.
 
I'm not sure if what I supposed to be a roller really is or just a shadow, but there seems to be 
horizontal sheaves on either side of the roller (or opening).
 
By the way, there are signs of some panneling on the low stern board..........
 
Cheers
Zeh
 

These are the ventilation scuttles to the aft quarters
open
closed

 
Dick

Update
 
cleats on forecastle deck edge, mounting of spare anchor,  and fastening of five turnbuckle screws per side,  for the shrouds (M1 threads, left / right) and foremast backstays
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

update
 
build log part 33
 
 
here is a little update on the forecastle stairways, the cargo hatches, the medium sized cargo derrick and the anchor handling crane........
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

If the sails on the model are set, this means many ropes had to be used to pull the sails into position. In some cases this can be a lot of line that has to be hauled and now it is just sitting on the deck in a heap. Sailors coil it and hang it so that it is off the deck. The coil will run out without forming knots when the time comes to lower the sail again. Take a Jib, a triangular sail on the bow on something the size of the Cutty Sark.  The line that hauls it up will be long enough to raise the sail from near deck level where it lives when the sail is not set, to the point it occupies high over the deck when the sail is set and drawing. All that line is pulled down to the deck and must be coiled so it is out of the way and free to run again when the sail returns to the deck.  To add to the complexity, many lines are actually running through two or more blocks to give the needed mechanical advantage, so these lines are longer still since they also have to run through the blocks, in many cases three or four times, which makes them three or four times longer than if it was just a single line. So every pin on the ship will have a coil on it at one point or another, and some of the coils are big and some of them are smaller, depending on the job the line is doing and how much line has to move to complete the task its doing. But what if you are showing the model with the sails down or off? If the sail is down or furled or whatever, you still need the working end of the line to be long enough for many people to grab onto it and pull on it, to haul the sail into position when the time comes. If its a large bit of the rig, like the Topsail Yard, you will need all the available crew to lift the heavy load, picture fifteen or twenty guys stretched in a line all getting ready to haul on this line. So this line needs to have at least enough extra on the end to allow twenty people to get a hand on it, and this bit will have to be coiled and hung on the pin too.

Thank you all for the repleys, the views and all the likes. I still find it amazing that my little modelship travels the entire world with on click of the mouse.
 
Today two parts I finished.
 
At first the block which is used to haul in the sumwing. Sumwing is the wing on which the net is attached. It flies over the bottom. In this block there is a big pully which I made on the lathe because it is very vissible.

 

 
And I made the pulswinch. The ship works with pulsfishery (most Dutch beamtrawlers do). It means that the nets fly over the bottom and instead of chains (that goes trough the bottom) there are electrodes whitch give short electric pulses. The fish are disturbed and 'jumps' into the nets. The electrical current comes from a cables whitch is reeled in on the pulsewinch (2 on each ship)

And a little off topic but I think it is appropriate. This ship is made/finished by my father last week. It is in scale 1/100 and 43 cm long. The ship is the 'old' KW88 Pelikaan. I made a few trips on the trawler when I was a boy. My father has always been an example to me when it comes to shipbuilding so I am happy he has build this ship.
 

If you consider that each rope on a ship is either being hauled on or slacked off to accomplish some task you will quickly see that there needs to be some length on the hauling end of the rope that will need to be coiled on the belaying pin.
 
Take for example a halyard.  With the yard in the lowered position the blocks for the halyard tackle are at their farthest apart.  There is a certain amount of rope that makes up this tackle.  As the yard is hoisted by hauling on the tackle fall these blocks get closer together and all of that rope that used to be in between the blocks is now in your hands at the working end.  That is the rope that must be coiled and hung on the belaying pin.
 
All of the lines on the ship function this way.  So, there will almost always be a coil of line to be found at the working end.
 
Regards,

Thanks everybody for all the 'likes'. It's good to get the feedback.
 
I'm currently in two minds about the shields. In Byzantine pictures of battles mostly (but not always) each fighter's shield seems to have a different device.
 

 

 
 
This was before heraldry became a subject in its own right, with the shield device being specifically "owned" by the person, and handed down from father to son. That didn't start till the mid-late 12th century, and even then only in Western Europe.
 
But there only two existing contemporary pictures of ships with shields along the sides, and in one of them all the shields on each ship are the same.
 

 
In the other, two shields are visible and they're different.
 

 
So what do I do? Make them all the same, on the basis that the shields "belonged" to the ship, or make them all different, as though each fighting man had his own?
 
I still don't know. I'm inclining to the "all the same" view - it makes it all consistent. But maybe adding a bit of variety is a better way to go.
 
Steven

Photographs of the Victorian Victory show two fair leads in the same place outboard.  For example,
 

 
Wayne

Hi Daniel
 
Here goes a detail, I think you can magnify it quite a lot before losing resolution.
 
I'm not sure if what I supposed to be a roller really is or just a shadow, but there seems to be 
horizontal sheaves on either side of the roller (or opening).
 
By the way, there are signs of some panneling on the low stern board..........
 
Cheers
Zeh
 

Hi Daniel
 
Here goes a detail, I think you can magnify it quite a lot before losing resolution.
 
I'm not sure if what I supposed to be a roller really is or just a shadow, but there seems to be 
horizontal sheaves on either side of the roller (or opening).
 
By the way, there are signs of some panneling on the low stern board..........
 
Cheers
Zeh
 

I came across this info and it helped me to understand the signals used in the English Navy.  I have read most of Kents novels and always wondered about the use of flags to transmit information,
 
This PDF contains the signal book that was used at the Battle of Trafalger.
Admiral%20Home%20Popham%20Telegraph%20signal%20book%20Final%20edition.pdf
 
Here is where I found it some interesting reading.
http://www.hmsacasta.com/2016/05/pophams-signal-flags.html
David B
 
 
 

I've just spent about a week literally going around in circles (pun intended) making shields for the sides of the ship. 
 
I decided that I didn't want to carve 50 shields.  Byzantine shields in contemporary representations are routinely either the shape of a bowl with the inside toward the holder
 

 
or a very shallow cone
 

 
and carving 50 of them would be just too much hard work.
 
 
Ideally I'd make them of wood, but as a shield of the time was usually about 7mm (a little over 1/4") thick, it was totally unrealistic. So I decided to carve a single shield and cast from that in some suitable material that would be light and strong, probably paper or cardboard, or perhaps papier mache'. I also thought of using builder's filler, but for various reasons (including wastage every time you mix up a batch) I decided against it.
 
I decided to make the shield bowl-shaped. The shields I was accustomed to using in my mediaeval re-enactment days had a hole in the middle covered by a bowl-shaped central iron boss, which encloses and protects the hand so you can grip the shield by a rigid handle across the hole. This puts your hand in the same plane as the body of the shield, so your control is better than if the handle was offset.  
 
Here is the shield in the process of being carved out. I used pear wood, as it has a nice fine grain.
 
  
 
And here it is complete.
 
   
 
But I shouldn't have made my mould out of plaster of Paris. Trouble is, that stuff is too soft to take repeated castings without deteriorating to the point that all useful detail would be lost. So I decided to change tack and make the mould of builder's filler instead. But as the wooden original had curled up at the edges when it got wet, I couldn't use it again.
 
So I cast another on in the plaster mould, using builder's "bog" (filler) - wonderful stuff - hard and strong and durable, and makes a beautifully detailed casting. An hour or so later I tried to take the new shield 'blank' out of the plaster. Couldn't do it without breaking the mould, but as I wasn't going to use it any more, that was ok.
 
Then I made a new mould out of goopy builder's bog and put the shield in face down. I'd covered the shield with shoe polish first, to stop the casting from adhering to the mould. It worked well - there's a small nick in one edge of the blank where I had to put a blade in to get leverage, but that's all.
 
Then I tried making shields. I used thin card to approximate a 7mm edge, but it crumpled in the mould, even though I'd wet it first. Next I used card from the box the dog biscuits came in. Pretty good, but still a bit of crumpling, so it ended up with a groove from the centre to the outside edge. It's possible that with care and practice I might be able to overcome this problem. I also tried papier mache', using damp shredded paper and a bit of PVA glue. It filled the mould all right and came out ok, but didn't have the quality of detail the dog biscuit card had provided.
 

 
From left to right - the builder's bog 'blank', the mould, dog biscuit shield and papier mache'
 
 
Then I took a break overnight, and as I lay awake it came to me. I'd got the shield wrong! I looked again at the Byzantine shields I had pictures of. They didn't have a boss sticking out of the surface of the shield. Because Byzantine shields, without exception,  were controlled not by a rigid handle as the Viking, Anglo-Saxon and other West European shields were, but by enarmes - short leather or rope loops attached to the back of the shield. You grab both enarmes in one hand and control the shield that way. Having used both techniques I can say I'd far rather use the handle, but that's not the point.
 
 

 
 
With enarmes, you don't need the a hole in the middle of the shield or a boss sticking out of it.
 
 
 
So I'm back to square one. I'll make a new shield blank (this time as a shallow cone). And it won't have that boss sticking out.
 
I know if I had kept it as it was hardly anybody would have known. But I would.
 
Steven  

Build log part 32
 
Building the foremast with attachment stations for the two derrick booms with double pivot joints to the mast, and several eyelets for fastening blocks, stays and flaglines. The spreader for the  shrouds is fixed already, Ladder, crows nest, flag-boom and lantern brackets are still missing
 
Nils
 

 
rigging of derrick booms
 
 

 
elevation stages of the mast
 
 

 
joints with double pivots for the derrick cargo booms
 
 

 
the rake of the foremast will be same as the funnels later on

Thank you Wayne and Robin, all sources are welcome! Always!!!
 
:-) :-) :-)
 
Good thought Mark, but I still do believe that all the equipment, i.e. the weapons already were off board at the moment of the drawing.
 
The most logical reason so far for the guns to be there is for signaling and saluting, still an important issue in those days. I do not believe, that the mysterious "cleats" have something to do with the swivels. 
 
Bruce, thank you for the observations. The mysterious wooling could be an after battle fix, other drawings suggest that the fishing of the main mast still was in place at that time, perhaps apart from the swivels being placed in the "free" sections.
 
Turner indicates that the rail was shot away in battle, so the rail´s top part in the drawing should be an after battle replacement. This also in my opinion reduces the chance for the swivels to be a battle fix.
 
XXXDAn

Hi Daniel
 
To me they seem to be fairleads, and to have a small roller in front.
 
(I have that picture in my computer, can enlarge it quite a bit but had never noticed it)
 
keep digging up this sort of stuff
 
Zeh

I checked the Lomellina wreck. It does have a capstan, but very similar to what you've done. Cross section a bit different and tapers upwards. But this was a Genoese vessel, not Venetian, and as I understand it they didn't share shipbuildung secrets - they were often enemies and always rivals. I'm using my phone so can't post pics but I can probably search up the website later today if you're interested.
 
Steven

No, I don't have any of these, but maybe I should check them out.
 
Here's some photos I didn't get the chance to put up in my previous post, by the way.
 
Two frames clamped in place: from above:
 

 
and from below:
 

 
And the first of two steering oars - I made it in two pieces. I cut the blade then drilled holes in a line and turned them into a slot that the loom would fit into
 

 
and the completed steering oar. A neater job than if I'd tried to carve it from a single piece of wood. Plus the oars I've made to date.