rybakov

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
The section of the 74 gun ship is thus completed.
Karl
 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello everyone, I'm sorry that due to the pressure of my family, my wife doesn't agree with me to continue the non-commercial ship model project, so I stopped (or suspended) all personal non-commercial projects. Of course, L'Artesien is non-commercial, because it's very difficult for me to obtain the license from Ancre - the probability that I obtain the license from Ancre is less than 0.0001%,i think.
 
I would like to thank all the enthusiastic members who have followed this project.
 
My friend Dahai, who is also my partner, will use his method to make La Artesien.This is the model he's working on.

 

 

 
So I will continue the carving parts of this project, including figure head,but I'm busy with the Cunmberland 1774 project right now, so it will be in a few months.
 
My friend helped me remake the head using sculpture clay.

 

 
I made some modifications with the software myself,
 

 
So this carving set will be reborn in another way.
 
By the way, I'll give you a preview of my new project, HMS Cumberland 1774, which I'm starting to validate.

 
Currently, the scale of 1:48 and 1:36 is being verified.

 

 
This is designed based on the original draught of NMM. My UK partner obtained (purchased) the license for the commercial kit development of this project in 2018.All the software used in the design, CNC programming and processing of this project has purchased commercial license. (rhino6, rhinocam 2018, silo2.5, ZBrush 2018...) includes plug-ins for ZB, and other software...
 
Thank you!
 
Jack
 
 

Thank you!
 
Profiling the coaming: First a slight curvature analogous to the camber, and then the edges rounded. 
 

 
Still tinkered some more gratings,  ...
 
[/img]
 
... and all fitted together. Here in a closed state, ...
 

 
... and here open.
 

 
The whole set open in situ 🙂
 

 
 

 

 
Here the slots in the grating for the rudder rope.
 

 

 
And closed in situ.
 

 

 

 
XXXDAn

First of all, many thanks to all of you for your interest in my construction report.
 
After a very busy week, I got back to model building a bit.
And again a few small things for the model on the way to the goal.
 
After the last work on the mast tops, the corvette's standing rigging is being built one floor higher.
Before the topmast shrouds can be put on, I first have to make and put on the burton pendants for the topmast burton takle. 

 

 

 

 
 

Thank you, Gentlemen, for your kind words and likes, and to everyone who stops by now and again.
 
I have completed the quarter gallery window frames:

 
I, then, spent quite a lot of time deliberating how I wanted to represent the fact that these windows were likely all superficial.  There were probably removable panels, within the false windows, that could serve as either additional gun ports, or as ventilation, but they were not glazed windows, as on the stern.
 
On the following section of the original stern drawing, Berain indicates glass panes with square shadow boxes, within the leaded cames:

 
All contemporary evidence suggests that the six windows within the quarter galleries were actual windows.  This drawing device gave me an idea for a stylized, false window.
 
I used a semi-opaque grey enamel wash to paint-in those shadows, within my engraved lines:

 
After spraying the backs of the panes flat-black, the shadows show-up as a subtle indication of individual glass panes:

I decided to use yellow ocher for the cames, in order to draw attention to the fact that these false windows are different from the clear panes seen on the stern and quarter deck, admiral’s cabin.  The two stylized windows on the main deck level of the QGs will also be painted yellow and black.
 
So, before I can actually get busy constructing these windows, I must first finish painting the lower stern.  Let me tell you - I have made quite a difficult job for myself, here.
 
The overhang of the stern counter is such that finding a comfortable angle at which to reach the furthest corners and cut a straight line has proven to be the most difficult aspect of this build so far.  The hull is relatively large and so full of extra structural plastic that it is quite heavy and awkward to move around and hold steady as you paint your lines.  Even just brush-priming the surface so that it was reasonably tidy was very time-consuming.
 
Nevertheless, if the paint work is not impeccable, this has all been a waste of time.  This is obviously a work in progress, and the colors are very stark and garish without the eventual walnut ink wash, but these pics give a stronger sense for where this is all headed:


I didn’t really need to paint the top and bottom edges of the transom moulding, however, doing so conveys the full depth of its scantling:

There will be small touch-ups, yet, but the results were worth the extra time.
 
Last night, I completed all of the transitional mouldings of the QGs, and started cutting-in the chase ports:


 
As I’ve mentioned before, the use of ultra-marine will be relatively sparing.  I was going to leave the inset circles red, but I realized that there are oval monogram cartouches on the balcony railing above that will also be painted ultra-marine, thus balancing the composition.  All will become clearer as we go.
 
Today, I will re-pattern the transitional moulding plate that sits atop the QG windows, and serves as the base for the wrapping balcony.  It is identical in profile and depth to the denticulated transitional moulding beneath the windows.  The only difference is that this platform will extend aft, four scale feet in order to wrap to the stern balcony.  I am kicking myself for not tracing the original pattern that I had made 🤦‍♂️
 
Little by little, we are getting there!  As always - stay healthy and thank you for looking in.

Hello,
yesterday the carpenters profiled the planks for the sheer rail and produced a lot of shavings. Today we fit them in at the port side. After I got a little routine with the ends, it was an easy job. Tomorrow we will make the starboard side. 
 

 

 

 

Here still on request as a supplement the hidden stern port from Goodwin's "operating manual"....
 

 
 
 
The other day - about 8 years ago or so - I had the companionway installed next to the capstan.
 

 
But as is so often found on English ships, there was a companionway just inside the capstan bars´ turning circle.
 

 
But how was this companionway closed when the capstan was operated? The first thing to notice was that the already made coaming on the model was not complete. As what do you do in such a case? One swings the blade ...
 

 
... and builds a new coaming 🙂
 

 
Of course, the sharp-eyed observer will not miss the fact that there is a small 90° twist here in coming n#1. So I had to do it again and here it is the new quadruple coaming combination, from left to right: In the first field comes the rope for the tiller cable, then the companionway, a free coaming and the enclosure of the capstan.
 

 
Today in P. there is a grating underneath the capstan. However, since the contemporary models I know have a solid two-piece wooden plate there, I decided to use one as well. The adjacent panel I have provided with a grating, so there can be a visual and auditory contact between the decks. The companionway here is covered by simply planks. Quick and effective to set up and clear away.
 
Possibly the companionway could also have been covered by a grating. Therefore I covered the field in the direction of the capstan with planks.
 

 
Or as seen on the Amazon class Frigate model in the NMM SLR0315 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66276.html a double leaf flap. Very elegant solution. Closed it's good to walk on, open it also serves as a railing and doesn't need to be stowed anywhere else.
 

 

 
https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler34/Victory-Spill-210120_6593.jpg
 
Also the flaps can be opened when the capstans bars are fixed.
 

 
Could this be a way of solving the mystery of how to close the companionway?  ...
 
XXXDAn

The riveting is now mostly complete on one side. I have built an inverted hedgehog 😀

 
Now I will continue with adding the washers. I ended with selecting black card stock (120g/m2) for these. They are cut as 1x1 mm squares and I use a metal pin to push a 0.5 mm hole. The rivets are about 0.3 mm so its not to hard to get the washers in place. I will put a drop of dilute glue under to fix them and then cut away the pin.

druxey, could it be the cap square on that carronade was cast, not bent from sheet? I never thought of doing that. A good way to pick up the detail of the hinge and clasp...
 
I spent a good day bending up eye bolts for the gun carriages. I made a jig inspired by Alex M (HMS Sphinx), who got it from a German modeler 
Günter Bossong http://www.minisail-ev.de/fibel/fib-03-09/fib-03-09.htm.
 
It has a slot just wide enough for the leg of the eyebolt, and a drill the correct size of the inner diameter of the eye. A piece of copper wire of the correct diameter is bent at right angles and put into the jig, then pulled around the drill bit (the hole not being used is for the larger diameter eye bolts for the quickwork, still to come):
 

 
The wire is wrapped all the way around the drill bit, and pressed down on top of the leg:

 
The loop is then grabbed with pliers and cut with micro angle cutters just where the loop hits the leg:

 
a quick squeeze in parallel jaw pliers to flatten out, and voila, Bob's your uncle:

 
I see that one of the positions with the greatest job security in the 18th century British shipyard would have to be the guys who made the eyebolts and rings.
 
Here are 196 eyebolts, just for the 28 cannon carriages on the gun deck. Add in another 28 for the deck, and 112 in the quickwork, and no rest for the weary...
 

 
Mark
 
 
 

Ad infinitum or ad nauseam, HH? 
 
Example of capsquare attached to a 12lb carronade carriage. Admittedly  it is at 1:48 scale, but on a carriage that size they are pretty small!

Thanks, all fellow OCD people out there.
 
druxey, what missing hinge and latch? Like Gary, I was hoping no one would notice. Could it be they were just printers' smudges in the drawings?😉 I have justified this omission to myself with the story that I need to insert these barrels through the gun ports years from now, and these additional bits will break off before I get there. Maybe, maybe, I will see how to do this for the guns on the upper decks.
 
Gary, I can't pronounce complexititus either. And our British friends would probably have a different pronunciation for it anyway...
 
Guy, yes, you have it right. The carriage sides slope 2 degrees inward each side at the forward end. And you are also right, at 3/16" scale the angle is like a rounding error, hardly visible. But given my complexititus syndrome, I just had to see if I could make the angles work. I did indeed drill the holes for the dowels in the jig at 2 degrees left and right, using angle blocks under the piece mounted in the mill vise.
 
Mark
 

I've just completed the main mast stays - topmast, topgallant, and royal stays, as per the fore mast. And in doing so I ran out of .5mm natural thread.... again... but not before I got all of the yards attached to the masts, and the spritsail yard attached too with their trusses and parrel beads as appropriate.
 
Here's what I did (although I'm aware that in various places it may be a little unorthodox - not least because I forgot to put the cleats on the masts, and it's way too late to start at this stage! Lesson learned!
 
The bits that hold the yards up (trusses, parrel beads, and halyards?)
 
Main yards and cross jack
 
The main, fore and cross jack yards (those that are lowest on the masts) are fixed with trusses. I formed these by tying two lengths round the yards with loops in the ends at the yard. This was done off the model. Then the yards were put back in place, and the opposite ends passed through the loops and then down to the deck and fixed tied off to a double 3mm block opposite a single block hooked into the eyelet on the deck just behind the mast with a lanyard which ends on the cleat on the mast (or on the bitts if you've forgotten them!). There's a good illustration of this in the instructions, and an even better picture in Lennarth Petersson's book... but here's my attempt.
 

 

 

 
Parrel beads (top / topgt yards)
 
The maintop, maintopgallant, foremaintop, and foremaintopgallant yards have parrel beads in two rows with parrel bead separators between them. These are noted as being castings in my instructions, but were in fact brass etched. They need blackening / painting before you begin. Then you have to start the tortuous needs-five-hands-at-least task of getting them rigged. 

To make this easier, I did as much as I could off the model.
 
.5mm rope was looped round the yard through the footropes, where it would finally end up, and parrel beads were threaded onto the rope, interspersed with the spacers - currently only on one rope (paying attention to which way round the spacers are - the curved edge will face out from the mast when fixed). Then, the other end of the rope was passed through the other hole in the spacers.
 
The picture will make it more clear, hopefully...
 

 
 
Once done, masking tape is applied to the loose ends to stop it all falling off...
 

 
...and the yard is then attached to the mast (it's pinned). Then the loose ends can be passed round the mast on the inner side of any rigging, ensuring that it isn't above or below any blocks that it shouldn't be... and fastened with a knot into a loop in as inconspicuous fashion as possible.
 
I'll admit, I'm not great at this... but it's done for another model!
 
I've seen others put extra layers on from this point to go round the middle of the parrel beads, but I call it a day at this point... or my head hurts too much!
 
Here's an end shot.
 

 

 
The fore and aft booms on the mizzen mast are secured with a single thread with parrel beads on it, but no spacers.
 
Spritsail yard
 
This is placed in a sling as shown below... A loop is tied round the bowsprit, and then another round the spritsail yard. It's all tied off in the middle.
 

 

 
The spritsail yard stay can then be rigged...
 

 

 

 

 
Finally, the heavy loops that support the weight of the yards, and are formed with suitably heavy rope along with the big 7mm blocks which were rigged and pass down to the deck to be rigged to the eyelets just fore of the mast being tied off on the bitts.
 

 
So far so good. The gaps to fit one's hands in are growing smaller... but we're getting there.
 
Rob

Continuation. 
 

 
 

 
Pawel 

small jobs:

 

 

 

 

Hello, and many thanks for your likes. 
 
today I finished the gun ports so far, that they fit and being painted. The rest comes, after I painted the outside of the ship.
 

 

 

Thanks, everyone.
Viewer warning: the following is for obsessive/compulsive people only....
 
This morning I adjusted my jig a little, and it really did make noticeably handed parts, left and right. So I proceeded to crank out cap squares.
 
 step 1: cutting to length. A little stop jig made quick work of cutting all of the parts to the same length.

 
 
step 2: the blank needs some rough bending before putting it in the jig. I measured 7" (real size for the fore end of the cap square) on the end of my pliers, and made a 90 degree bend. This ensures that the part keeps all of the right proportional relationships once it goes into the jig.

 
Step 3: chain nose pliers are used to form a rough curved bend next.

 
I end up with a pile of S curved blanks, ready for the jig:

 
 
Step 4: into the jig, with the 7" length inboard of the jig, and the 90 degree bend tight up against the dowel.
 

 
A tight squeeze in a vise, and perfect cap squares form:

 
28 identical left hand, and 28 identical right hand. In a couple of hours. Way more fun using a jig, even though I did struggle trying to design the jig, as seen in the previous post. The jigs for the 18# and 9# guns should go a lot faster, now I know what I am doing here.
 

 
Mark
 

Hi Marc,
 
The best pictures I have:
 
1 and 2 Frégate Néréide 1720
3,4 unknown
5
 
Here is my guess. Before and after 1700 the shell would be wood and the inside bricks, metals parts came later, I would say after 1750.
The stove was not that big. It was not made to feed everybody, only the officers.
The location looks like to always be beneath the forecastle.
In 1780 the 74 guns had a copper sheet above the stove with 2 chimneys but not in 1680.
 
I would be caucious with Lemineur. I used his drawings for the frames of the 74 and he changed many parts shapes for obscures reasons. Trying to answer questions  before 1700 is often a guess, and the beauty of it, is that everybody can imagine what he wants, no one will come to  contredict him.

Hello, 
here is the continuation of making the block strops for the guide blocks of the foremast top.
 

@Dowmer
@FriedClams
Hello,
thanks for your positive comments and all the others for the LIKES.

The foremast top also requires various guide blocks. These are attached to the underside, as can be seen in the first picture.

Quelle: Musée de la Marine Paris – La Crèole   
The small blocks of around 3.5 mm in length are only indicated by the sheaves.
The large blocks, as seen in the picture for example, I equip with brass sheaves.

 
For making the block strops I will serve ropes with a diameter of 0.35 mm. More about that soon.

Back to the conductors 🙂
 
We had a good discussion about the theme in our german forum:
https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t1912f643-Blitzableiter-an-Schiffen.html
 
 
Also NMM has nice exhibits 🙂
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/63401.html

REL0295 Main royal masthead from French flagship 'L'Orient' which exploded during the battle of the Nile. Lord Minto mentions it on display at Nelson's house at Merton in 1802. Pine mast with an iron fitting, which contains a sheave to take the signal halyard. A brass lightning conductor inscribed 'L'Orient' is attached to the top, bent in a loop. The whole is fixed to a square stand. [It is probably more accurate to date it to 'circa 1795', since the ship was under construction in 1793 (when the British failed to burn her on the stocks at Toulon) and it was certainly made and fitted before the Battle of the Nile when it was taken up from the sea after 'L' Orient' exploded. PvdM 2/13] Date made    circa 1798
 
Also the museum in Amsterdam has a nice model equipped with one:
 

 
 

XXXDAn

And in order not to frighten the suspicious and spoiled audience, we continue with another dismantling. 
 
First, a look at the scene of crime, the middle battery deck.
 

 
The normal tiller is located in the lower battery deck under the deck beams. The picture shows in the foreground how the rudder head protrudes into the middle battery deck, with the slot for the emergency tiller in case the lower one is damaged. Handy in times of storm and battle.
 

 
On the Vic in P., the rudder head is covered with an 8-cornered oval cowl. So far I haven't found such a part in the contemporary records. The contemporary model of the Princess Royal and other models show a cowl that goes all the way to the rear seat under the windows.
 

 
So snap away the current cover ...
 

 
... and new window seats, using a figure to determine the seat height, the total height was determined by the lower edge of the window.
 

 
The depth is based on the model of the Princess Royale. After some fiddling, the cover and the two benches were built.
 

 
Another cutter blade was profiled to be able to score the surrounding profile ...
 

 
... and the whole lot adjusted in place. That's when the great depth caught my eye. Even though it was certainly used for storage, it was much too deep.
 

 
In case of battle, both the bench and the cover would have been dismantled to get to the hidden stern chasing ports. And you can see now on the gun how much space is wasted in this version with the bench. 
 

 
Here again the rudder head ...
 

 
... with the slot for the emergency tiller. So I shorten the bench a bit in depth.
 

 
Here the port side has already been shortened ...
 

 
... and here the other side as well.
 

 
And our master is having a good time 🙂
Then another blade was profiled and a drawing iron made for the frame lining of the window frames.
 

 
And this is how it looks now 🙂
 

 
XXXDAn
 

Hello,
and many thanks for your likes and wishes.
After a short break between the years, I'm back at the shipyard. Now all port lids at least are build, but not all are lined. 
 

 

 
At the picture above you see the lids without lining, flush with the planking. At the picture below the lids have already the lining, and they are now not flush with the planking. All who where not ill with measles ore what else when it came to addition at school, know what is now to do. And that is not a shortcut ☹️
 

 

 
Above without lining and below with lining. 
 

 
At the picture above the lids are looking more like at most historic models. At the Centurion (below) is interesting, that they build the lids just plain, without the bulky wails or thick planking on top! 
 

Good morning and thank you all, more pictures of the capes, next step I will start with the sculptures.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning and thanks to all for the likes, more photos....
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un saluto.

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Pawel